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I just found out she was WAY overdue for an oil change.after the change the car is back to acting like its normal crappy self.hopefully she didnt do too much damage to the car,I'm not ready to start rebuilding/modifying it yet.
Thanks for the info about the 2 sensors.
My daughter has a Beetle and the only time she has had any trouble was on an icy patch on the road,and once she got stuck pulling in her driveway after about 8 or 10 inches of snow.That was also the day I got my Caddy Eldorado stuck on her road,I didn't even make it to her driveway.The shovel got a workout that day.
That said, I would go with the Mini Cooper.I think they are a better built car.We have had trouble with the check engine light coming on all the time.The dealer has replaced a dozen or so sensors,and the latest is something the dealer cant figure out.
A friend has a Mini S and says he has never had a problem with it,also the Mini has plenty of room for a taller guy(if you ever get to drive her car)my friend is 6'7",I'm 6'even,and I have to move the seat forward when he lets my drive his baby.
Thanks for any advice.
Not sure about the CD not ejecting. You may need to take it to the dealer for that one.
Good luck.
I am a proud owner of a 1998 VW Diesel Beetle. I adore this car, and try to take care of the exterior and all mechanical maintenance. My husband changes the oil frequently, and the car runs great. 50+ miles to the gallon. However, unfornately, my front Engine Splash Shield is a disaster. I don't know how I have damaged it so much. Needless to say, my husband says it must replaced to protect the Engine. The side mounts are riped and damaged as well. Shame on me!! Please help!! Where can I purchase a new or replacement Engine shield, side mounts as well. Any advice will be appreciated!! Tomorrow, I will visit a VW dealer parts dept. to see what a dealer will charge for this item. I hope I don't have a stroke when they mention thier price? Thanks
Here are links to 2 different metal skidplates.
http://www.evolutionimport.com/Volkswagen_Skid_Plates_s/17.htm
http://www.dieselgeek.com/servlet/Categories?category=Panzer+Skid+Plates
Thank you so much for your reply. I will look at the sites that you suggested.
Thanks
Jen
If you do not mind USED parts... this site will allow you to search 1000s of scrapyards across the conutry.
but this morning when i drive to school,the splash shield had felt down...
how can i repair this thing?and how can i maintain this splash shield from falling down?
please help me
Give it a try!
Bel Air Car Guy.
http://www.evolutionimport.com/Volkswagen_Skid_Plates_s/17.htm
http://www.dieselgeek.com/servlet/Categories?category=Panzer+Skid+Plates
http://pics2.tdiclub.com/gwillie/VW/autoFluidchange.pdf
T
There are two pieces still firmly attached.
I found an aftermarket product
http://www.car-stuff.com/carparts/volkswagenbeetle20032007dormanrb924200352558.h- tml
for about $50
My question: Is it necessary to replace the splash shield? She lives in N. California. No snow here.
Anyone have opinions on going with an aftermarket splash shield?
That cover may also tend to protect the engine from spashing water... that is a side-affect.
The common suggestion is to relace a damaged cover with one of the ALUMINUM ones which can actually PROTECT the engine from road-hazzards. Cost is about the same as factory plastic one.
Thanks
David
Recently my air conditioning knob was stuck on number 2 so I gently tried to force it to 3 and the knob made a breaking noise then the air conditioning no longer worked. The knob still clicks when I turn it but no AC comes on.
Any ideas on what's broken and how hard it will be if I try to fix it myself rather than take it into the $D$E$A$L$E$R$?
Do you mean FAN SPEED knob? (I beleive it is only knob with numbers)
I'm looking at the Haynes manual and it looks pretty easy to remove the center console to get at the knob. It doesn't look like the book really address this knob being broken.
Clearly something is draining the battery. Does anyone have any experience of this type of problem?
If that is not the problem, then a GOOD mechanic would do some electrical tests to determine the problem instead of just selling you a battery. It is pretty simple to hook up an ammeter and pull fuses until the faulty-circuit is lsolated.
If there is no drain on the battery while parked... then your problem must be the CHARGING system.... again pretty easy to isolate a problem there too. Wallmart sells a nifty little thing that plugs into your ciggerette-lighter socket so you can monitor battery/charging voltage constantly.
Thanks
Eds73L
We had an issue straight away with the coolant system (I was not impressed with our local VW people) but since then all ok.
A month ago in heavy rain the wipers started to stop in the middle of the screen, and then start again, and then stop.
We paid the VW people to investigate, they said it was either the wiper motor or the stick switch but didn't know which one. They advised to have both replaced.
The next day the wipers worked fine and have all month until heavy rain on Friday. Stop start again? Saturday no rain and all is fine again. I am not convinced that replacing the wiper motor and stick switch will fix the problem. Any advice would be much appreciated.
I had the same problem with my car yesterday with the fan knob. It got stuck at 2, I pulled it back down to 0 and now it won't turn on. Did you find a fix for it? I'd like to be able to fix it myself but haven't been able to find replacement pieces and am a little unsure how to take off the cover.
Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated. It's 102 degrees here today.
Thanks,
Jordan
jordan.blasdel@gmail.com
It has no service history will it need to go to vw dealership for service and repair
It is trivial to isolate what is draining the battery. Anyone with electronics skills should be able to pull the fuses while monitoring the battery-current. This will isolate the problem.
My bet is on the brake-light-switch... there is a reason that VW recalled it TWICE!!
I drove away from being parked. My car didn't want to go although it started well.
I put my foot on the accelerator to drive off, the car made a loud bang and smoke started coming out from the bonnet and into the car. I turned the car off , took the keys and jumped out, fearing it was going to explode! Once the smoke had died down I opened the bonnet. The engine cover was totaly smashed to bits.
My car was recovered on a tow truck
The garage say it is the manifold. What does the manifold do?
They are stripping the engine back to see what other damage was done.
What ever could cause this to happen? The car was running well..I had an MOT done only a couple of weeks ago. I have been told it will cost 2K to fix. VW garage :sick:
I assume you have photos?
Recently the car has been sluggish in changing gears. Sometimes it even jerks a little when shifting from first to second. More noticeable during this first shift and when the car is hot (i.e. driven for a while). Doesn't seem to be normal and was not like this when I first got the car.
The Car has 42K miles now. So I have taken the car for scheduled maintenance work at a couple of local dealers and they tell me this car does not need any Transmission oil change. The car's manual also does not show anything in regard to this.
I wonder if this true. I mean, all my other cars (i.e. a few Honda's, one GM, one Chrysler) have needed a transmission oil change at least a few times in the life of the car.
I did some research and no conventional or synthetic oil lasts forever. Am I missing something here or is the dealer pulling a fast one. Unless VW makes super oil that last forever...???
Has anyone wondered about this or had their VW Beetle Auto transmission oil changed ever? What's the deal with this? :confuse:
Is there a way to check the oil condition as I can't find a dip stick or oil filler port?
Help... Thanks in advance for your replies...
They also replaced the Oxygen sensor.
Obviously they reset the error. Now about a week of driving I have same error back.
Does anyone have any advise on what could really be the problem?
I want to go more informed to the dealer as I feel they got my money but I did not get the fix..
:sick: - Any advise is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
16555 P0171 Fuel Trim,Bank1 System too Lean
You asked for more details... here is some technical stuff...
=======start technical stuff =======================
Your ECM has a memory look up table that tells how long the fuel injectors SHOULD be open, to give correct air-fuel. The Oxygen sensor monitors the exhaust to tell how incorrect the table is. The table is programmed when the car is new and everything works fine. As the car gets old you may have wear & tear and things vacuum leaks, etc. This causes the table to be off. THe O2 sensor tells the ECM how to tweak the fuel injectors back to give the correct air-fuel. Basically, the car learns how to correct the table for the current running condition of the engine.
In your case the ECM (with O2 sensor) has determined that it has used up its entire fuel injector tweak-tuning range for correct air-fuel. You're running too lean and the car can't add enough fuel to bring the air-fuel back into range. Your either getting too much unmeasured air (air coming in besides through the MAF sensor) or you're not getting enough fuel pressure. That, or the MAF is measuring the incoming air incorrectly.
========end technical stuff=============
The dealership replaced both of the most-likely (and most expensive) components which could cause this failure. (Keep in mind that a NEW part is not always a GOOD part.)
If I were you, I would inspect ALL the vacuum hoses for cracks/leaks. If air is getting sucked in where it is not supposed to, this error could show up.
There is an outside chance that low fuel pressure or whimpy fuel injector could cause this too.
I also have to say that a TURBOCHARGED engine has some other possible items that can cause this. (you do have the 1.8T!)
I am no longer using any vw dealers.
The problem I was having, was when the engine was droping below 2000 rpm, the transmission was droping out of gear and the rpm was increasing. I was taking the car to 55 mph and allowing it to slow on its own to 45 mph, the transmission would start to drop out.
Take your bug to a local transmission shop and have the fluid replaced at least on a 25K basic. dealer are of no help!
Most people dont know this is how the headlight bulbs in the NB are replaced. It is a BRILLANT design given the lack of space under the hood to put your hands to replace the bulbs.