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By the time the dealership takes their cut from that... the guy that worked on your car takes home somewaht less than the $35 you paid. He has a family to feed and bills to pay just like the rest of us.
Personally - I purchase a replacement bulb at wallymart and replace it myself in the wallymart parking-lot. I also replace my own oil, brakes and do most other repairs. I cannot afford the $70/hour for those tasks.
1) never EVER use one of those quikie-change places.
2) The aluminum oil-pan is very expensive to replace.
commentary:
Most of the people that do the work in those quikie-change places were not able to get a job as a real mechanic. Any money you think you are saving is a net long-term loss. They often use the wrong oil, and can really mess-up your car.
Most cars use a steel oil-pan. Steel is much tougher than aluminium and can stand to be over-torqued. It also accepts oversized threads better. The aluminium oil-pan is more expensive to manufacture than steel. It is lighter and helps cool the oil. However, it is very thin and easilly damaged. (either by over-torqing or getting busted from road-debris)
Not unless you like the increased chance of things being done wrong and want to try and be sold a bunch of stuff that you don't really need.
I have a 2006 VW beetle. When I go over bumps (train tracks, sewer grates etc) there is the normal jostling and banning sound. But then about 10-20 seconds after the bumps there is another banging sound. I took the car to the dealer and they tightened my license plate holder, didn't help. Took the car back, had them drive around with me and they heard the sound, so they replaced the driver's seat frame, even though the sound is coming from the rear end.
Does anybody know what this sound may be or have any suggestions as to how to fix it?
The offhand note that it "drives fine" means nothing... lets hope you have not fried the catalytic converter or something else expensive.
Use a Vag-Com to troublesohoot.
Most commont reason for P0171 is a cracked/broken or otherwise defective hose allowing air to 'leak' into the intake manifold AFTER the MAF sesor. (Between MAF and engine)
Another possibility is the MAF itself not measuring the airflow accurately. If you have every one of those "oiled guaze" air-filters... (like K&N) then your MAF is likely destroyed.
3rd possibility is the foreward O2 sensor measurng the lean condition improperly.
I would approach this problem in the order I have suggesed above.
1)Look for air-leak (replace all questionable rubber hoses
2) Pull electrical connector off MAF and drive like that (forces "limp" mode safely)
3)If that helps, consider replacing MAF
4)Consider replacing foreward O2 sensor
VW says to DRIVE GENTLY (accellerate slowly) until the blue coolant light turns off... this is the same as all other vehicles ever made. One should always take it easy on a cold engine. Driving gently is the very quickest way to warm up engine without excessive wear-n-tear.
You do understand that the only reason that the NB (New Beetle) has the blue light is because it does not have a formal temparature-guage on the dash to tell you when engine is cold. (VW tried to keep true to the Original Beetle which did not even have antifreeze!!)
On the other hand.... letting a cold engine IDLE until it is warmed up is not good for it. An engine takes much longer to warm up when idling. This allows condensation and other nasties to form in the crankcase.
You may need "professional help" on this one. A timing belt that is installed wrong will allow pistons to hit the valves. This usually results in physical damage, bent valves and perhaps holed pistons.
I guess you *could* remove the valve-cover to visually see the position of the cams.... but it is very likely that the damage is done and the head will need to be pulled.
Replacing battery may lose RADIO coding because radio thinks is has been stolen.... I have never heard of any other issue in VW caused by changing battery.
To turn on foglights, did you try to PULL out on the headlight switch when lights are on?
(I assume you know that law only allows foglights to work on low-beam)
The car had similar stalling issues two years ago and the crank sensor was replaced. Four years ago the oxygen sensor was replaced.
We are going to check the mass air flow sensor and lights. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Essentually, this system is intended to capture and store the vapors which come off the fuel in the tank. Then, as you drive, the vapors are released into the intake-manifold where the engine can burn them before they get released into the atmosphere. This is all controled by the onboard computer via solenoids.
The EEC system has 2 purposes in life
1) Elminate build-up of gasoline vapors in underground garages which are explosion-hazzard.
2) Protect the atmosphere from organic vapors.
The EEC system has a pretty complicated plumbing system whereas the onboard computer can activate solinoids and air-pumps to "test" that the EEC system is sealed. (A loose gascap would trigger a light on the dashboard)
With all that said.... It sounds as if your EEC system is not working properly and the at least one of the solenoids is stuck closed thus sealing off the air-vent to the tank.
I would suggest you "pull the code" which accompinies your dashboard light. This code will help isolate the problem.
Most autoparts stores (Autozone) will "pull the codes" for you FREE.
Once you have the code, we may be able to help you further.
A new ETC runs about $20 including new O-ring and clip to hold it in.
It is entirly possible that the ECT is feeding bad data to the computer... thus the computer is not setting the fuel-injection and ignition-timing correctly.
Once the light on the dash has been resolved... if you still have the "missing" problem, let us know.
In fact, before I took my JETTA TDI in for timing-belt replacement, I did a lot of research and found someone who *specializes* in this kind of work. I asked every shop "When was the last time you replaced TDI timing belt"... if they did not do one in the last couple weeks... I looked for another shop.
Any good advice I need to know?
As for your question about 'distance travling'... the TDI is the VERY BEST CHOICE for that kind of driving. It *loves* the open-road. Expect well over 50MPG under those conditions. (If you have manual xmission)
Keep in mind that the highest MPG is right around 55MPH. This puts the engine in its 'sweet spot' of 1800 RPM.
Being 300 miles away means you can make the round trip on one tank of fuel and still have enough left to drive around for the weekend!! (my TDI gets 700 -800 miles per tank)
I just have a couple more Questions about starting the engine and the glowplug light.
Is glowplug light the blue one on the control panel?
I am guessing that you turn the key not all the way to start and keep it there until the light goes out. How long will that take? :surprise:
Yes, turn on the key to "run" positon and wait for GlowPlug lite to go out... then turn key to start engine. Just so you know, there are 4 glowplugs (one in each cylinder) they get red-hot and preheat the engine so the fuel will ignite properly during starting.
Remember, a diesel engine does not have any spark-plugs to ignite the fuel...instead, the fuel ignites from being squeezed by the pistons. Cold diesel-fuel will not ignite properly. That is why there are glowplugs in a diesel engine.
The glowplug lite looks like a double-curl of wire. (A heating element) The length of time it is on depends on the engine-temparture. At -20F, it may take 40 seconds to turn off. With a hot engine, it will turn off in less than 4 seconds.
The BLUE lite is your engine temparture lite. Blue means that the engine is still below operating temparture so you should be gentle with the engine. (Overloading a 'cold' engine will wear it out prematurly) Always drive gently while the blue lite is on until the engine warms up.
I bought my 2003 GLS for an amazing price, far under blue book, with only 58K. It's been 7 months and I need all new tires, shocks and struts. Plus the engine light just came on. I have lots of questions, so instead, if you have any advice for me, I'd greatly appreciate it! My main question would be if this is a normal rate of maintenance for those parts (At only 60 K?) Also, just curious if anyone else has problems with rocks hitting the windshield and hood ALL THE TIME?
BTW, I'm a safe, easy driver! I go over speed bumps at a whopping 4 mph. ha
Thank you!
Tires are about normal replacement items at 60K miles (if you rotate them annually)
Engine-light can mean a LOT of things. I suggest you clean the snowscreen and get the codes pulled from the computer. Once you know the code that caused the lite to come on, it will be easer to diagnose.
Thanks for the advice, my dad and I are going this weekend to see about the engine light.
I get no water flow in the upper water line, just a little smoke fumes and water spurts. Even with the thermostat out and engine at 4000 rpm!!! The cooling system slowly builds up pressure with the reservoir cap on tight and then overheats. Boiling occurs from the bottom of the reservoir. When I clamp off this lower line, the boiling stops. Might be alot of air pressure going through this line.
I checked the water pump. The impeller is tight on the shaft. It looks OK but I believe air in the system will make the pump lose prime and become ineffective. It seems there is no water pressure at all.
At 4000 rpm's, a slight increase in water flow is seen in the upper radiator hose with air bubbles but still no flow at the upper reservoir line. Just little spurts of water! I put in a clear hose to observe the flow for the upper radiator hose.
Fans do not ever come on but my first concern is the lack of water flow in that upper reservoir line and the air bubbles. I'm sure the pressure check will show an air leak. The question is where. If I hot wire the fans, they run just fine.
I'm going to pressure check the cooling system today and hope it's just an intake or exhaust gasket. Engine runs fine with good power and smooth idle. No water in the oil or oil in the water. I believe compression is OK but have not checked it yet.
There is an obvious milky white buildup on the valve cover cap. Was told that could be just from condensation but it's pretty thick and should not be there.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
VW uses a "bypass" cooling system in which the thermostat is used as a bypass-valve to control the flow of coolant thru the engine. As the thermostat opens, measured amounts of coolant from the radiator is allowed to mix in with the master-flow.
Leaving the thermostat out of the engine totally messes up the cooling system. The coolant does not have anything telling it where to flow. Without a thermostat, all the coolant may 'bypass' the radiator and the engine may overheat (or worse!)
NEXT: Once you have thermostat in the sytem, if there is no coolant "peeing" from the small hose in the top of the pressure-canister...then your waterpump is the problem.
The waterpump MUST be replaced when the timing belt is replaced. Your 1999 should have had the TB replaced at least once by now. Are you *certain* that the waterpump was replaced at the same time?
Additionally, there are 2 types of waterpump available for VW engines.
1) Plastic-impeller
2) Brass-impeller
I always insist that they install the Brass-impeller type when my timing-belt is replaced. This is because the Plastic-impeller type have a tendancy for the impeller to dislodge from the shaft and stop pumping.
Here are some details about the plastic-vs-Brass waterpump.
http://www.water-pumps.org/VW-and-Audi-forums-on-waterpumps-with-metal-vs-plasti- c-impellers.html
No thermostat means constant radiator flow even with cold water. My problem is no water is flowing through the upper radiator reservoir tube even when the engine goes to 4k rpm. There is no constant flow, just a little fumes and a little water spurting out but no change between idle speed and 4k. The water pump checked good and is tight on the shaft! Go figure!!!
Also, there is really no water pressure in the upper radiator hose. At idle or 4k rpm's. That doesn't seem right to me.
Do you see a water stream on the upper reservoir line at idle and then an increase at 4k? Also, squeeze that upper radiator hose and tell me if you feel a pressure increase from idle and then 4k rpm's. You can actually do this yourself by reaching for the throttle connection and reving the engine with your free hand. It's behind the air filter box near the firewall.
NO THERMOSTSAT = NO COOLING
This is because all the coolant is likely to 'bypass' the radiator and overheat the engine.
To more specifically answer your question... The upper hose (small diamator) which is plugged into the top of the plastic pressure-canistor should ALWAYS be 'peeing' antifreeze into the top of the tank. (even at idle)
Since you describe not having any 'pressure' in the upper radiator hose, this tells me that you have a lot of air in the system. It is possible you simply have too much air in the cooling-system. Even a good waterpump cannot pump air.
Once the engine is at temparture (with cap on pressure-resivour) the upper radiator hose should be too solid too squeeze at all. If you even loosend the cap.... all pressure will be lost from the system.
Also, this cannot be said enough times... USE ONLY "G12" ANTIFREEZE IN VW ENGINE. (pink color) It clearly says "G12" on the side of the pressure-resivour.
Mixing in even a slight amount of the 'green' type of antifreeze can cause 'gelling' and can plug up passageways inside the engine. (No coolant flow at all)
I have a 2001 turbo beetle, and i'm wondering if anyone has this problem. My trunk light is intermittant. I've changed lights and checked for a short but can't find anything. any ideas anyone? :confuse: