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Honda Civic Si / SiR 2005 and earlier
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You are a professional (accountant you said) which would mean you are educated, or maybe even intelligent. It is a shame that you did not even bother to read the owners manual. It clearly states which conditions warrant 10,000 mile service and clearly states what the "Maintenance Required" light is and how to reset it. Rather than relying on hearsay, why not get it from the source -- Honda owner's manual that came with the car? Shame Shame Shame. RTFM!!!!
1. Keys in off position
2. Depress knob on the right side of instrument panel and hold
3. Start car, wait till the light goes away and let go.
Worked like a charm.
So save the shame for the Tie Rod question and all future dumb questions.(there will be more don't worry) Peace Brother. -Drewzle
2004 Accord $201
2004 Odyssey $211
2003 Civic $208
1994 LS400 $440 /with $1000 deductible.
I don't get why you guys are geting so slammed on you SI's.
Any more questions? :P
I am an accountant with a 2003 Si also...hmmm anyway I just passed the 30k mark myself, and the maintenance light will eventually stay on until reset. If you want to service the car somewhere else or do it yourself, just hold down the odometer reset button with the key in the on position before starting the car...then continue holding the reset button and start the car. Hold it down for another 8-10 seconds and that will reset your maintenance required light.
I heard there is a new TSB. But possibly no warranty coverage since your car has those springs.
Thanks.
skeetbag - Another known problem, the dealer will either oil it or replace your master cylinder.
Test drive the Element throughly. And if you have a chance drive the CR-V manual side by side. CR-V feel more nimble, if you can say that about an SUV. Although Element has the shifter in the same location as the Si, CR-V feels less top heavy and more stable in turns. Even though CR-V and Element have the same drive train, the CR-V feels faster. Don't go for the auto CR-V though, it is a dog. At least the manual CR-V is only a half second to a second behind the Si in 0-60 test.
I'm gonna buy a AWD 5 speed on in the silver/blue color. I think that's the best combo out right now. I was gonna drive the SI til 100K but all the talk about the creak with no warranty help makes me nervous.
I have one other problem, everytime I get in this car and start driving, I promptly and frequently get stopped by government officials telling me that I'm violating something called a "speeding ordinance?!" I have gathered quite a collection of certificates confirming this, and am running out of storage space--any ideas?
I've test driven a 5-spd 2WD Element, and an automatic AWD. The AWD was an absolute dog, but I'm sure it would be somewhat improved with a 5-spd. I can't imagine you going from the Si to the Element and liking it. Then again, you do have pretty unusual taste in cars. I like the looks of the Element, but it isn't all that fun to drive. You guys won't have any fun cars in the stable once the Si is gone, you must be shopping for something...
We found the AWD automatic Element to be a dog as well. That's what we intended to buy when we found out we were having little Gee. Test drove the automatic AWD and couldn't deal with the lack of power. Ended up buying an automatic EX-L Accord which has since been traded for a 5-speed EX-L Accord but that's a different story.
It felt pretty nimble, but NOTHING like an SI. No-one in my area ever has a manual-shift CRV, so I have not been able to try the Element/CRV back to back.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
So the reason you are getting rid of the Civic is the steering rack? Because if it's one of the top cars you've ever owned, seems nuts to drop it now (and you've owned about a million cars, so that is really saying something). But to address your alternatives:
Mazda6 - Family sedan. You already have an Accord, isn't that enough?
Mazda5 - Is this out yet? I'd like to drive it, but it is still too minivan for me.
Mazda3 - Wait for the Mazdaspeed3 if you're going to do this.
Lexus IS250 (350?) - Is this out yet?
Element - 2wd is ok, 4wd stinks, but what's the point of 2wd in this car?
Altima - Family sedan, worse than the Accord or Mazda6 - please, please skip it.
G35 - Great car, but I'm bored of it.
Saab 9-3 - My favorite on this list, wait for the convertible 6-cylinder Aero
Accord - Nice car, but not good enough to have two.
I've been thinking a lot about my Si lately, and I can't come up with a car that would be worth trading it in for right now. (under $25k) The only cars that are even coming soon that I'm particularly into are the new Miata (I won't call it anything else) and the new Suzuki Swift (which probably isn't coming at all). Maybe the Solstice or Sky.
I like small cars, preferably hatchbacks and convertibles. I like the looks of the Mazda3, but is it better in any way than the Si? Not really. Mini Cooper is either too slow, or overpriced. Not going to be a VW at this point (next GTI). MR2 Spyder is going away. Where's that Swift GT?
Rather than buying a new car, put some money into the Si - I see the JRSC for under $2k...
We kind of need a car like the Element but we've made do this long so .... I've come to the conclusion Gee should keep his Si and take his chances. We have been loyal Honda customers and I would hope that they would be willing to work with us on the steering rack if and when it does go bad.
But as for family cars being boring, I find our EX-L stick a hoot to drive. For the 99% of the driving we do it's perfect. I'm sure the Altima SE-R would be just as well suited. My last name ain't Senna or Fangio.
We found the AWD automatic Element to be a dog as well. That's what we intended to buy when we found out we were having little Gee. Test drove the automatic AWD and couldn't deal with the lack of power. Ended up buying an automatic EX-L Accord which has since been traded for a 5-speed EX-L Accord but that's a different story.
I am not sure they had a Mazda 323 in 2000. I am pretty sure it was name PRotege by then and there was no 2 door. The 323 was replaced by Protege in the mid 90's. The last 323 hatch looked like toilet upside down.
Are you talking BMW 323?
Chuck
It is not in the owener's manual anyway. IF that someone is a professional installer, they should know how to do it. If not, you are better off buying radio from Crutchfield, because you will get installation kit and wiring harness adapter for free, and you will get detailed instructions on how to replace the radio. LEt me know if you need $20 off $200 discount code.
im a 17 year old who has a 2004 Civic si Coupe. Im looking into lowering it. any suggestions?
That 2001 EX-L 5 speed Accord is starting to look great again. I know I'm all over the place. Whatever......
I purchased (mostly from H and A) :
Factory Spec Oil filter (the new little ones)
Special filter Wrench
Drain plug washers
Castrol Synthetic 5w20
Gunk Out.
I figure since I don't know if mineral oil was in the mix of any of the other Oils the Quicky Lube places use I would use Gunk-out to remove any deposits. Since I am a coward, I figure I will use only half the bottle and run for 5 min. ( I truley worry about Deposits because Honda's rev so damn high. Not like my old '84 Camaro Berlinetta)
Then Change oil as normal. Drive for a bit and make sure it doesn't leak. Check the Oil in the morning and I figure I'm good to go. I don't use any additives (which the manual advises) but was wondering if anyone else uses them in their Si.
Is Gunk Out a neccessary step? Is there risks that I am not aware of? Any hints or tricks of the trade? I can research and read about it all I want but I'm looking for advice with someone with practical experience. Oh yeah and by the way, I bought ramps but its still real tight squeeze, (didn't lower my car or anything to the suspension) Should I use jack stands? Don't say dig a pit, I live on solid rock. Thanks!!! Cheers!!!
As far as brands go I've been using Mobile 1 synthetic in my cars since 1990 or so. I like the idea of the oil being better than my car really needs. If I happen to over heat the car or have some other malady the oil is likely to take any abuse just fine.
Ok enough about me. NO do not put that flush carp in your nice Honda. If you feel it needs a flush just change the oil & then do it again in 500 or 1000 miles or so.
I applaud you for changing your own oil. No one will do a caring oil change like you will.
Chuck
I purchased (mostly from H and A) :
Factory Spec Oil filter (the new little ones)
Special filter Wrench
Drain plug washers
Castrol Synthetic 5w20
Gunk Out.
I figure since I don't know if mineral oil was in the mix of any of the other Oils the Quicky Lube places use I would use Gunk-out to remove any deposits. Since I am a coward, I figure I will use only half the bottle and run for 5 min. ( I truley worry about Deposits because Honda's rev so damn high. Not like my old '84 Camaro Berlinetta)
Then Change oil as normal. Drive for a bit and make sure it doesn't leak. Check the Oil in the morning and I figure I'm good to go. I don't use any additives (which the manual advises) but was wondering if anyone else uses them in their Si.
Is Gunk Out a neccessary step? Is there risks that I am not aware of? Any hints or tricks of the trade? I can research and read about it all I want but I'm looking for advice with someone with practical experience. Oh yeah and by the way, I bought ramps but its still real tight squeeze, (didn't lower my car or anything to the suspension) Should I use jack stands? Don't say dig a pit, I live on solid rock. Thanks!!! Cheers!!!
I am with Crashton6, GUNK out is not needed. And if by revving high you mean the lowest revving Honda ever, you have seen nothing yet. The Si cuts out at 6800 RPM, which is very low by Honda standards. The 1999-2000 I believe reved to 8000 RPM, and the S2000 revs to almost 10,000. This is the nature of the engine and there nothing wrong with bring it to the red line every time you feel the urge to pull away. There was an article that the piston speed in the K24 in the TSX approaches sonic speeds at red line.
Lose Castrol Syntec, unless you got the one that says it was made in Germany. All other Castrols are just purified dyno oil. If you are going to pay for synth oil, buy real synth from Mobil 1. You can get a calendar at PEPboys for $1 to benefit MAAD, there is coupon inside for "buy 3, get 3 free" Mobil 1. Wait until it is on sale for $3.99, buy 3, get 3 free, then send your recepit to Mobil 1 rewards and get a $5 supercertificate. This makes Mobil 1 oil changes cheaper than dyno changes.
As far the actual procedure, I used to remove the passenger side front wheel to access the filter and drain plug.
Oil change- I've done the oil change a few times myself. I ran it up on ramps (the lower the slope the better so that the front end doesn't rub), blocked the rear tires, put on the brake and put it in gear. Pretty straightforward change. You are aware of the needed drain plug washer. If I remember this car correctly , the filter is in a somewhat awkward spot- you'll have to turn the wrench quite a few times to get a full revolution. After reinstalling and tightening the filter and drain plug, I let the car slide down the ramp without starting and then add the oil to make sure I don't misread the level (on ramps- might misrepresent actual oil level due to tilt). I just go to the dealership now to minimize the risk of having the car fall on me. Blue-eyed gods' idea about removing the front tire for access might be good - didn't try that on the oil change - only when installing the intake.
So yesterday, I figured I'd start small. I'll change the Air filter. I ordered the part, factory air filter. And as I took the cover off to find that Seeds and Nuts are stored in there. Not too many, but enough for me to throw a fit on the spot. I see where the intake for the car is and I'm sure I could get some metal screen material and wrap it but I don't want to do it. I'm at 35k and I have owned the car 1 year and 4 months. Has anyone else run into this problem? I'd hate to have to restrict the air flow, but I can't have this crap in my engine. This is my daily driver (and my only driver) and I can't change the intake until my warrenty is fully amortized. (it runs out at 100k.)
So yesterday, I figured I'd start small. I'll change the Air filter. I ordered the part, factory air filter. And as I took the cover off to find that Seeds and Nuts are stored in there. Not too many, but enough for me to throw a fit on the spot. I see where the intake for the car is and I'm sure I could get some metal screen material and wrap it but I don't want to do it. I'm at 35k and I have owned the car 1 year and 4 months. Has anyone else run into this problem? I'd hate to have to restrict the air flow, but I can't have this crap in my engine. This is my daily driver (and my only driver) and I can't change the intake until my warrenty is fully amortized. (it runs out at 100k.)
The filter is doing its job, none of this "crap" is getting into your engine, I woldn't worry too much about it. Don't forget to replace the cabin filters as well, you may find some seeds and nuts in there too.
It hasn't happened to my car either but I don't doubt it exists. There is a TSB for it though so I hear.