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Oldsmobile Intrigue: Problems & Solutions
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BTW, those plastic "screws" are actually called "rivets" and are supposed to be cut if they don't screw out easily. Bought a box of 15 for $3 from O'Reilly's Auto Parts.
Once one knows the routine, it only takes 5 minutes to change the cabin filter. :P
After thinking that it must be the BCM, body control module, and trying to get access into the dash area I discovered that sometimes wiggling the ignition key had an effect.
I squirted powdered graphite into the key slot and like to have never got the key to turn and the car started. I cleaned out some graphite with paper. Later I used a contact and circuit board cleaner to spray into the key slot and remove the key and wipe it clean. Did this several times until the key came out clean.
Now the locks work fine. What a learning experience!
Also since the 6 year old battery was original equipment I had it tested and it only had 124 cold cranking amperes. But battery replacement did not correct the door unlocking problem.
The car has the original brake pads but the rear is making a slight grinding or rubbing like noise. I removed one caliper and the pads are still 50% or so. I keep expecting to hear the front pad wear indicators anytime. Does anyone know of the original brake pads going 80,000 to 100,000 miles before requiring replacement?
Corrected problem by removing the BCM, I think this means Bowel control modulator as it is the S____s', and lubricating the pins on one of the plug in's with Mobil 28 synthetic aircraft lubricant.
I'm still driving with the dash partially disassembled with my fingers crossed.
Speaking for the 3.5, I don't think that premium fuel is going to do anything for your car. High-octane fuels are specifically for high-compression engines so as to keep them from knocking. The relatively low compression of the 3.5 (9.3:1) will make anything higher than regular gas a waste of money.
Now, if you've had other work done, such as reprogramming the ECU or swapped in high-performance camshafts, then you might benefit from premium, otherwise, save your money.
I have a 3.5L 99 Intrigue, approx. 160K.
The problem I have started a few weeks ago and progressivly got worse.
What's happening is when I attempt to start the car (at any time, if the engine is cold or hot) the car simply does not start majority of the time. Most times only the seatbelt light comes on, but 1 in 5 to10 shots all the lights on the panel appear (but the car still does not start). The radio, lights etc. have power every time though.
If I continue to turn the car over 3/4 way, after sometimes 10-30 attempts, I will hear the fuel pump (I think) decide to 'wake up' and then the car starts absolutely fine.
The other problem I have with the car is it will stall sometimes when i'm on the highway or even going down the street (it happens almost every time i'm on the road now at least once!). Out of nowhere the car completely dies on me.
Has anyone had these problems? I have read quite a few problems that seem similar, just none with the lights and the stalling.
Any advice/recommendations are much appreciated.
The park neutral switch may be acting up on you causing the no start, next time place it in neutral or cycle though gears, back to park and see if it helps with starting.
Does the "security" light come on at any point?
TIA
There's one situation in which most engines will benefit from premium gas: when slamming the accelerator on the highway. For a split second, fuel delivery lags air intake, which leaves the charge lean, therefore prone to knocking. The ECU then delays the spark to avoid knocking, albeit limiting power.
But unless one drives like a teenager hopping from lane to lane, flooring and braking, it's not worth the cost.
Then again, when gas was around $1.60, I'd pump premium when I found it for just $0.10 more. Good times...
Other than that it doesn't really come on at any time (unless the car is started and of course the whole panel lights up at first).
Thanks for the advice regarding the ignition switch. I'll look into that myself to see if the connection is loose at all.
It would be really nice if it were something so simple.
thanks moonshadow,
Frammer
Go to the top of the messages on this page and under search this discussion enter secondary and/or air pump.
There is a tsb re a water shield to keep water from getting into the air pump, located behind the headlight [non-permissible content removed]. and in front of the driver side front tire. The motor seizes and or shorts out and takes a fuse with it.
cannot remember the details but the search should give you some more insight.
What is the actual code that your reader spit out?
cheers
moonshadow, "Oldsmobile Intrigue" #11441, 21 Jan 2005 4:39 pm
As well you can search that thread for air pump etc.
Before I start ripping taking the door apart to get to the motor, I would like to know how does the circuit sense the end of travel. Are there limit switches or the current of stalling motor is monitored and power is cut off?
Another words, I am still looking for other then motor possibilities, since I did make the window go up and down periodically to prevent it from seizing up, yet it did. I also greased the guides several times.
HTH
The motor will stall, lose torque, at end of travel(whether it is the door frame or someones head :P .
Normally if the car is not running, you can see that your headlights/dome light will dim when the switch is activated at end of travel and undim with its release. This will indicate that the motor is drawing current, trying to work and may be stuck. You can use your other windows to see the effect.
Holding the button long enough will probably trip the breaker and you will have to wait for it to reset.
If there is no dimming at the flaky window:
What actual resistance measurement did you get for the motor?
Can you place the voltmeter across the motor wires, key on and with the master lock out not locked.
Motor is between the brown and other blue wire. They are in opposite corners of each other in the plug.
Activate the up down switch at the problem rear door.
What voltage do you get?
Also activate the master switch for that window.
What voltage do you get with that?
For a reference. what is the voltage at the bat? You can get it at the middle blue wire and chassis ground.
cheers.
Waht causes this and what is the fix?
Also, are you changing your oil every 3000 miles or 3 months? Forget the BS in the owners' manual about 1 year or 7000 miles. You need to flush all the combustion by-product crapola out of the engine at least 4 times a year.. Remember to drive at least 15+ miles before changing the oil because draining the oil on a cold engine leaves most of the crapola in the motor.
Also having odometer flicker especially during acceleration, anyone experience this? Anyone fix this? Thanks!
If you haven't yet changed the tranny fluid, I would do so ASAP and have the tech check for metal bits/shavings in the pan.
My biggest concern is the oil mixing with the coolant.
You might also want to add some "Marvel Mystery Oil" the next time you top off the oil. I usually add the recommend amount a couple of hundred miles before I change the oil.
I do not have the high idle problem you have.
I had taken my car back to the dealer complaining of an exhaust leak but they say that they do not see or smell anything wrong. When they checked with their GM tech representative they say the same thing.
http://www.reliabilitydirect.com/gasanalyzerproducts/EXT-CO50.htm
I bought the above Carbon Monoxide (CO) detector with the thinking that where there is CO there is an exhaust leak. I get CO readings by the firewall by the AIR valve which is the same area you describe. If my problem is the same as yours and requires an 11 hour repair that might explain why the dealer could not find any exhaust leak while my vehicle was under warranty. How did your shop determine that there was an exhaust leak? Do they have any opinions as to how or why it developed?