Oldsmobile Intrigue: Problems & Solutions

sg75

i have a 99 olds intrigue with 160000 miles on it. its been a good car. Just recently the water pump started rattling so i had it replaced. The car never got hot until after the water pump was replaced. Also had thermostat replaced, still overheats. The top radiator hose was sucked shut so i had it replaced. Car is still overheating and top hose still sucks shut. They think it might be a blown head gasket? Any suggestions?

dirkwork

Hello

I just found a used 2000 GLS with about 90k on it. I negotiated to buy it and will be traveling to pick it up soon.

I was a bit surprised to read a few posts about the 3.5 motor having structural issues relating to the block that could not be repaired. Is this really something to be wary of, or some freak occurance on an out-of-spec block? I know this motor is a short version of the northstar, and they run well, that appeals to me, but its also out of production and a limited production at that, so any advice from the folks here would be appreciated.

I am mechanically inclined and enjoy working on cars, so I look forward to doing some basic maintenance on the car and getting things checked out, little stuff doesn't bother me but a new motor would blow my entire investment!

Thanks,

Dirk

numbnuckles1

Try leaving the radiator cap off and drive for several miles. I had the exact same problems. $300 later and lots of frustation, it was just air in the system. Garages were "0" help. It's taken me this long to figure it out. Mikie

dtownfb

Not sure why that happened. I'll check my manual tonight to see if there a procedure or button that can switch it back to English.

indrgb

Dirk,

Congtrats on your Intrigue. I have read many of your posts on the GM minivan boards. I have the same two cars as you.

I wouldn't worry about the shortstar. Very few people have had serious engine trouble. Most people have noticed some oil use. Since it's new to you, keep an eye on the oil level. Due to the nature of its design, the 3.5 uses a little oil, especially with high mileage.

Although I have only had my 2002 GLS for a little more than 2 years, it has been outstanding. Right now I am looking for tires. I don't want to put the Goodyear RS-A back on because they are so expensive. I was thinking about the GT-HR, or some Yokahamas. Anyone with a recommendation?

evandro

I shod mine with Yokohama Avid Touring, a far cry from the OE Eagle LS: smooth, quiet and good grip always.

Yet another tire I buy based on the consumer survey from Tirerack which matches the scores there.

HTH

bayview6

I have Goodyear ComforTred on a couple of my vehicles. Quiet, good ride and handling, superior traction and high mileage.

dirkwork

Hello,

I picked up my '00 GLS over the weekend.

The car is in great mechnical shape and runs like a top. It was a joy to drive back out of state, I was able to go as fast as law would allow w/o any strain on the 3.5, it didn't even downshift on hills. I drove as fast as the laws and speed traps would allow (60-90) yet still got the following MPG - 33, 28, 28, 27.3

The bose stereo rocks and 8 way seats comfortable.

One question, during test drive I noticed that there was a clunking when the suspension moved such as when stopping car and when removing brake from stopped car, then reapplying. Felt like a strut or tie rod end was stiff. Also would make noises and feel through steering and brake pedal.

I read about the ISS clunking and lubing it - I'll try that, but would suspension movement w/o steering movement make clunking sensation on a ISS problem? I jacked up my car when I got home and with subframe supporting the car the steering was smooth and rack felt fine.

I'm wondering about the struts and the strut bearings. Will take strut upper mounts loose and check bearings soon.

Nice car, if I can talk wife into it, I'll see our 00 maxima and bank about 4k, and then drive this car.

Dirk

bayview6

might want to check the front wheel hubs first. Just had mine replaced at 80k miles.

dirkwork

Have done a lot web research on the ISS and feel that is my problem on the Intrigue. Have car up on jackstands in driveway, going over it from end to end. Its in pretty good shape, the prior owner took care of having it serviced regularly, and interior shows little sign of wear. The motor has no leaks, brakes look fine, etc. The chrome on the inner wheels is flaking off but otherwise its fine.

Dirk

dtownfb

You can lube the steering wheel joint yourself. Someone was nice enough to post the procedure. It's pretty simple.

dirkwork

Yes, planning on doing that this weekend, we got the directions, service manuals for my GM Van (uses similar layout) and dad's Caddy STS (ditto), so it should be cake, just have to secure the steering wheel and tires.

I ordered 100' of B-quiet sound insultion to make the car even quieter. Got the idea from carforums posting, a lot cheaper than dynamat.

Has anyone upgraded to 17" wheels? Tire-rack says I should use:

Mags - 17x7, 5x115 pattern, 40mm offset

I think the 17" wheel is the main difference in "Feel" between my Maxima and the Intrigue right now, as both ride stiffly and handle well.

Also saw a rear strut tower brace referenced as a modification - gm# 1245-6148. Sounded interesting, not sure how necessary it is or install.

Dirk

redline65

Interesting you had your front hubs replaced, my '99 Intrigue has 80K now and the front hubs need replacing also. Struts are also leaking according to my mechanic, so I'll have to get them replaced too. AND my A/C compressor needs replacing, the clutch is getting really noisy and it's losing R134 pretty quickly now. I guess I can't complain too much though, it's been a pretty trouble-free car and I haven't made a payment in almost 4 years now.

dirkwork

I've never heard of having to replace the hubs on my family's cars before, and we've had our share of GM FWD vehicles. What is wearing out? I noticed the rear's were made of aluminum for less unsprung weight - is that what the deal is with the fronts? The aluminum wears? wonder if the other cars like Gran Prix have the same issue?

Redline65 -

On older cars, I know they seem to all go bad at once, but 80k isn't much for a car and you can easily double that for the basic powertrain in my opinion if you are willing to get these smaller things fixed.

Dirk

bayview6

Redline, my Intrigue is a '99 also. Probably the factory got a bad batch or the guy on the assembly line didn't do a good job with the torque. I initially took the car in to have the struts replaced by the mechanic said that they were still good but that the wheel hubs were on their last legs. I plan on replacing the struts in September since they have loss a lot of their performance and I'm planning on a 7k road trip at that time.

My A/C is working fine. Did you ever replace the A/C air filter? I did mine about a year ago when I noticed the air flow was really really weak. I had never seen such a filthy air filter in my life. Totally disgusting. :sick:

dirkwork

Over the weekend I repaired the clunking in my steering on my 2000 GLS I just acquired. It turned out to be the Intermediate steering shaft needed to be re-greased. There are instuctions on doing this repair on various parts of the internet and Edmonds, but getting the outer boot off was the biggest pain, however after I put two hands on it - one through the exhaust pipe area and the other straight in, it came up and we got it off & back on. Used heavy-duty grease, reinstalled it and it drives like a different car! Clunking is completely gone!

Also changed the transmission fluid, oil, powersteering fluid. Need to change coolant next.

Dirk

dirkwork

Can someone tell me what is wearing out on the hubs so I can inspect my car?

Thanks, Dirk

dtownfb

I'm not sure what everyone means by hubs either. I had my Intrigue inspected at the end of February. Passed only had to replace fog light bulbs (they had to get me for something). The mechanic mentioned the wheel bearings were OK but would need replacing in a year or so. He also mentioned that the rear struts were "seeping" oil and would need to be replaced within the next 6 months. No big deal considering I have 112k miles on it.

dirkwork

I'm fuzzy on what they are calling a hub. As I remember the front end, the lower A Arm attaches to what on a RWD car is called the spindle - via the lower ball joint, the strut via the usual bolts, and the tie rod end by the usual attachment. The bearing that holds the wheel hub attaches to the spindle. What I consider the hub holds the wheel on through the wheel studs pressed into it and the only wear point I could see is where the wheel bearing fits up. I'm admittedly not that familiar with where the CV joints lash up as I have not had to do that repair yet.

So the cars are wearing front wheel bearings??

Dirk

pinkcheetah

Are you sure your fans are kicking on? Mine has major problems and will only kick on when i set it on cool air with the floor/defrost control, Then the fans come on.
Hope this helps!

pinkcheetah

redline65

The hub assembly consists of the wheel hub, the bearings, and the ABS sensor all in one unit. They are kind of pricey - about $150-$200 each, just for the part. The way my mechanic explained it is that there is too much "play" in the front hubs, he is able to move them too much with just his hands. I'm not sure if this means the bearings have worn out or what. I haven't noticed any noises that are out of the norm, which is why I've been kind of reluctant to replace them so far.

dirkwork

Thanks for explanation - In the old days you'd replace the wheel bearing for $8, but now a days, it figures they make it all one unit. My 90k new-to-me car has a tight front end, but I'll keep my eye on it.

I had a Dodge shadow and the rear drum brakes for that car had the drum and wheel bearing part all pressed together as one. Little did I know, so I spent a LOT of effort to bang them apart with wood and sledge hammer, bought replacement drums (they had different brakes on same model car you could pick from) and tried to install, but the wheel studs interfered with the holes in the drum. Rather than go back to the parts store, I attempted to drill them out..... LOL What a mess. The proper part cost over $150, but it wouild have been way cheaper than the labor I spent messing with it!

dirkwork

I saw a website with all car 0-60 and 1/4 mile times listed, but only the 3.8 Intrigue was listed. Anyone know the 0-60 time for a 3.5 model? Just curious. I know the throttle is non-linear, but my car sure runs strong off the line. I also have a 2000 Maxima SE with 222 hp and 5 speed manual, but it has very little torque and this car seems quicker in real life with all the torque and excellent transmission. The max you have to abuse to get it to go fast from a stop (spin tires/clutch, rev the tar out of it). At 70 mph its also doing 3k RPM and uses premium fuel (recommended).

Dirk

D

cob

I don't know what the 0-60 was on the 3.5 but, the one I had was slow off the line but punch it a 28-30 and it would downshift 2 gears and take off. Within 10 seconds it would be doing 90 plus. The sweet spots for acceleration were 28-30, and 65-70. It was a dog if you floored it at the upper limits of the lowest gear range because it wouldn't downshift 2 gears but only one. The car does the 1-2 shift at 58, 2-3 was at 95 and at 108 it was still in 3rd when the speed limiter kicked in. The great part was doing 80 at 2200 RPMs and averaging 30 MPG.

mfletou1

I think the 0-60 time was somewhere in the high 7's, not much better than the 3.8 but a better ride there.

I have a 2002 GL w/PCS. Recently, a bunch of problems have cropped up. A few months ago, power windows stopped working. Fixed by dealer under warranty (I have 38900) on it. Would have cost $550.

Last week, the car stalled while I was on a highway off ramp. Not the first time its happened. When it stalls, of course, everything died. It was a dangerous situation and I nearly got hit and lost control of power brakes and steering.

Got it started again and brought it in. Dealer had all kinds of hell trying to fix it. A bunch of codes kept popping up. They ended up replacing the oxygen sensor, then replacing the intake manifold which had a major leak. They thought that would do it. Then they took it on a road test, and boom, it died at speed on them. Brought it back, ran codes, and this time they say it was the ignition switch so they replaced it. That makes no sense to me.

Anyway, now I have it back. Not sure if its fixed or not. Anybody have insights here? I'm concerned, I can't have this car dying at speed on me or my wife. Very dangerous.

If it wasn't warranty work, total cast here would have been north of $1350. The warranty expires 10/2007, so I have a year and a half left. I'm concerned about whats going to happen after that.

I just replaced the stock RSA's with Continental ContiExtreme Contact tires. Certainly changes the feel of the car...handling is so much better. My RSA's were gone anyway. Also they found I had virtually nothing left on my back rotors and replaced them. My fronts already were replaced under warranty after brake problems. They had been resurfaced twice before that.

Also, I had the ISS work done.

Troubling...now I do drive the hell out of this car, but...all the more reason its troubling. Not much I can do about my commute or how its used.

dtownfb

Your dealer must have wanted to get rid of some parts from their stock. I'm not sure why they thoguht the oxygen sensor or intake manifold would cause your car to stall esp. when it is well documented the troubles with the ignition module on these vehicles and other dash mounted ignition switches. thankfully, it was covered under warranty. itf you are covered by a warranty, you should be fine over the next year and half.

Do some reading on this forum and you'll be able to pick up on the trouble areas. Overall it the Intrigue is a good vehocle, I would not be concerned.

denverolds

This is from MSN Autos website. I am not sure how accurate they are, but I hope this helps.

Oldsmobile Intrigue GLS - V6 3.5L (215 hp) 4A + ABS

0 - 60 Time(seconds): 6.99
1/4 Mile Time(seconds): 15.41
1/4 Mile Speed(mph) 93.00
Braking 60 - 0 mph (ft.)140

mfletou1

Well, you'd think, but every time the codes were coming up for those different things--oxygen, etc. As for the manifold, they found an actual leak.

So you see my concern---all those things were in fact wrong with the car, but weren't the actual stall problem.

Speaking of, last night, after all the fixes, guess what---Engine light back on. Car seemed like it wanted to quit, headlights flickered. It stayed alive, for now at least.

Also, the big time "clunk" is back when I steer. I've already had the ISS replaced once. From the sound and feel, its gone again. Yesterday I could barely keep the car straight.

39k miles. Super. I'm as a big of a GM guy as you get, but you know what: I'm starting to get fed up. For the first time, I actually entertained the notion of owning, gasp, an Accord.

redline65

When my Intrigue was having hesitation/stalling issues, the dealer replaced the crankshaft sensor and the problem went away for good. Also, on the ISS you may just need to have the lube job done to it instead of having it replaced. I've heard the dealer sells a lube kit for this problem, but I've never bought one. Hopefully they can get the problems worked out soon.

nbner

I had the same problem and changed the crankshaft sensor myself, problem fixed. Also the dealer has a lube kit for your ISS. Mine was replaced under warranty but later a kit became available.

dirkwork

RE: motor quitting - My dad has two Caddy Sevilles with the Northstar motors, the crank sensors have been a major trouble spot for a motor that has been decent otherwise. He talked to a caddy mech and the guy said the part was redesigned multiple times.

Not sure why your guys replaced the o2 sensor just based on codes, they did not do diagnotics just replace parts. Alas, its all too typical of car dealer shops these days, they throw part on it until it runs right but they never did really understand what was going on.

Thanks folks for the 0-60 info. My max feels faster on the road with its 5 speed directly connected and high numerical final drive gear (3k rpm at 70mph) but until then its all Intrigue, and much easier to do it with less fanfare.

Dirk

nbner

Lubricant Kit GM# 26098237

mfletou1

Just spoke with my service advisor. We'rd old pals these days.

Says that the service engine soon light malfunctioned. Shouldn't have come back on, there are no codes. Ok, fine. Lets hope it doesn't stall again.

Looked at the Internal Steering Shaft. Broken beyond repair/lube. This one lasted less than 15k. Replacing under warranty.

Does this make sense to anyone? You have a faulty part which you know is faulty. It is virtually certain to fail. So when it does, you...replace it with the SAME EXACT part. Which will break, but since simply is new. I suppose the strategy is to keep doing this until you are out of warranty.

Super. Its just shocking to see GM lose money.

I looked at a 2006 Accord V6 EX yesterday. 244 HP V6, stability control, leather, heated seats, sunroof, 6 disc cd changer, xm, power seats on both sides, etc etc. Everything but Nav. MSRP was $27800. They're selling them under invoice for $24500.

Not such a bad deal, is it?

dtownfb

What's even more disturbing is when the same problem pops up in other GM vehicles or future models? Can you say flickering headlights, ignition modules, intake manifold gaskets, steering column problems, etc.?

dirkwork

I'm gussing you mean the *Intermediate* steering shaft that has given folks including me some trouble. As someone who has personally done the relube and examined the ISS, I think it could have been designed better by Delphi, who supplied the part. I can also say that the grease used was also not much good - clear junk instead of a good moly based lube. The construction of the part however, looked to be fairly decent and the U-joints were made with sealed bearings and mine had no anywhere slop at all at 90k.

I think its a bit harsh to say that the part will (with certainty) break, as it appears that 99+% of the folks only need to have the ISS relubricated with the kit.

Perhaps you drove the car with the thing binding up and it wore out? who knows, but I don't think they are breaking a lot.

I would agree, this is a part I never thought I'd have to replace, but I had to get one on my '95 Dodge Ram PU replaced, it had steering issues with wierd popping noises and sensations.

Not sure what the major imports ( I guess you need to say Foreign Mfg's nowadays) do for this part, they need something similar but I don't recall ever hearing of a Honda needing anything like this.

Dirk

bobchex

My 2002 Intrigue (93K) makes a loud whining noise after it's started. The noise last about 20 seconds then stops. Sounds like a turbine. Does not happen when the engine is warm. Any ideas?

moonshadow

Search this discussion(top or bottom right corner) for secondary and/or air pump.

bobchex

Thanks moomshadow. The air pump has already been replaces two times because of water build up. Looks like I'm going for a third but the 50A fuse hasn't blown yet. Can it be lubed to stop the noise?

indrgb

To anyone interested,

I bought tires yesterday for my Intrigue. After much research, I settled on Bridgestone Potenza G009. I got a very good deal - install, balance, road hazzard, tax, etc... - $398. Plus, Bridgestone has a mail in rebate for $50 right now. That brings my tire only price down to $56.50 per tire. These are "H" rated performance tires. Tire Rack rated them fairly high. My first impression is they stick much better than the original Goodyear RS-A, but they make more noise. The RS-A is rated poorly, but in my opinion, they are ok, but pricey. They had 51,000 mi on them and still had tread left, but they started to scare me in the rain and snow.

bweston

My 2001 Intrigue (75K) also makes a loud whining noise after it's started, lasting for about 20 seconds. I feel certain that it is related to the secondary air pump, which I've had replaced many times due to moisture building up in it. After replacing it, the "Service Engine Soon" light always comes back on within 24 hours, and stays on until it is replaced again, I sometimes notice a sloshing sound, like water. The technicians at the GM dealership cannot hear it. Recently I've been noticing a "clicking" sound, which sounds like it is coming from inside the dash, and lasts for a few minutes when the car is first started. When I open the hood, I can't hear it. I had to have the transmission replaced at 50K - my extended warranty covered it, and the last problem was a "warped fuse box". I only have 9,000 left on my extended warranty, so I would like to have the secondary air pump taken care of once and for all - any ideas? Thanks.

mlsteven

I bought a '99 Intrigue about 2 1/2 years ago. It has always been difficult to start. I have to turn the key several times quickly to get it going. Sometimes, it just stalls.
The diagnostic test code always says something along the lines of lack of oxygen.
My first attempts at getting this fixed did not work. After $1500, I decided I could live with difficult to start.
The problem has gotten worse recently, although it is the same problem.
Does this problem sound familiar to anyone?? I don't feel safe in this car anymore b/c it stalls while I'm driving. I owe too much on it ($3000) to just go get another car.
Any suggestions? Please help. Also, if anybody knows a good mechanic in the Cleveland area who might be of assistance, please let me know.
Thanks.

dtownfb

It could be a the fuel pressure regulator, crankshaft sensor or igntion module.

What is the code number?

tracy7

I am having the same frustrating problem, but not just when it rains. I have a 2002 Intrigue. Have you found a solution?

bill83

Anyone know an answer for poor radio reception in my '01 Intrigue? The AM band is especially poor. I heard somewhere earlier that the rear window antenna on the Intrigue gets interference from the rear window defroster. Just looking for some soultion.

bigalc5

I have the same problem, but I had not done anything to the car. Did you ever find what was wrong? Does disconnecting the battery for a while do any good?

robertp101

I have the same problem. Do you know which relay they replaced?
Thanks
Bob

bayview6

Usually park the my '99 Intrigue in the garage but recently parked it for a week at the airport. While on the trip it rain about 2 or 3 inches at the airport, and I drove back home in the rain. Going on a road trip next week so I thought I would check the air pressure in the spare. Found about 3/4" of water in the bottom of the wheel well. Anybody else have this happen? I re-sealed the bolts that hold on the spoiler thinking at it got in that way because I remember some water falling out of the trunk lid when opening it the first couple of times. Didn't think anything of it at the time.

Comments?

djlsrh

Hi!
I am just wondering if anyone is having problems with the outer tie rod ends wearing out?
I have 98 GL with 53K on it. Last February, with only 42K it started making a rubbing noise when turning left. The dealer said the only way to fix it was to replace the entire steering rack. I got a second opinion from an independent shop, they said it needed new struts and strut mounts. A third place said it was the left outer tie rod end. They squirted some grease into it and it got quite. Problem solved? No. In February of this year, it started being noisy again, so I had more grease squirted in. That made it quite for about a week. The noise sounds like when you take a McDonald’s cup and move the straw up and down slowly through the hole in the lid. It is as loud as an old truck that has not had its front end greased for twenty years. I have been doing research and am not seeing to many people with this problem. I did find a TSB link title that implicates faulty engineering. I think GM should pay to replace my tie rod ends. Any advice on what to do next?

dtownfb

Replace the tie rod ends.......

The vehicle is 8 years old, out of warranty and out of production. What do you want GM to do?