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Oldsmobile Intrigue: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
I just found a used 2000 GLS with about 90k on it. I negotiated to buy it and will be traveling to pick it up soon.
I was a bit surprised to read a few posts about the 3.5 motor having structural issues relating to the block that could not be repaired. Is this really something to be wary of, or some freak occurance on an out-of-spec block? I know this motor is a short version of the northstar, and they run well, that appeals to me, but its also out of production and a limited production at that, so any advice from the folks here would be appreciated.
I am mechanically inclined and enjoy working on cars, so I look forward to doing some basic maintenance on the car and getting things checked out, little stuff doesn't bother me but a new motor would blow my entire investment!
Thanks,
Dirk
Congtrats on your Intrigue. I have read many of your posts on the GM minivan boards. I have the same two cars as you.
I wouldn't worry about the shortstar. Very few people have had serious engine trouble. Most people have noticed some oil use. Since it's new to you, keep an eye on the oil level. Due to the nature of its design, the 3.5 uses a little oil, especially with high mileage.
Although I have only had my 2002 GLS for a little more than 2 years, it has been outstanding. Right now I am looking for tires. I don't want to put the Goodyear RS-A back on because they are so expensive. I was thinking about the GT-HR, or some Yokahamas. Anyone with a recommendation?
Yet another tire I buy based on the consumer survey from Tirerack which matches the scores there.
HTH
I picked up my '00 GLS over the weekend.
The car is in great mechnical shape and runs like a top. It was a joy to drive back out of state, I was able to go as fast as law would allow w/o any strain on the 3.5, it didn't even downshift on hills. I drove as fast as the laws and speed traps would allow (60-90) yet still got the following MPG - 33, 28, 28, 27.3
The bose stereo rocks and 8 way seats comfortable.
One question, during test drive I noticed that there was a clunking when the suspension moved such as when stopping car and when removing brake from stopped car, then reapplying. Felt like a strut or tie rod end was stiff. Also would make noises and feel through steering and brake pedal.
I read about the ISS clunking and lubing it - I'll try that, but would suspension movement w/o steering movement make clunking sensation on a ISS problem? I jacked up my car when I got home and with subframe supporting the car the steering was smooth and rack felt fine.
I'm wondering about the struts and the strut bearings. Will take strut upper mounts loose and check bearings soon.
Nice car, if I can talk wife into it, I'll see our 00 maxima and bank about 4k, and then drive this car.
Dirk
Dirk
I ordered 100' of B-quiet sound insultion to make the car even quieter. Got the idea from carforums posting, a lot cheaper than dynamat.
Has anyone upgraded to 17" wheels? Tire-rack says I should use:
Mags - 17x7, 5x115 pattern, 40mm offset
I think the 17" wheel is the main difference in "Feel" between my Maxima and the Intrigue right now, as both ride stiffly and handle well.
Also saw a rear strut tower brace referenced as a modification - gm# 1245-6148. Sounded interesting, not sure how necessary it is or install.
Dirk
Redline65 -
On older cars, I know they seem to all go bad at once, but 80k isn't much for a car and you can easily double that for the basic powertrain in my opinion if you are willing to get these smaller things fixed.
Dirk
My A/C is working fine. Did you ever replace the A/C air filter? I did mine about a year ago when I noticed the air flow was really really weak. I had never seen such a filthy air filter in my life. Totally disgusting. :sick:
Also changed the transmission fluid, oil, powersteering fluid. Need to change coolant next.
Dirk
Thanks, Dirk
So the cars are wearing front wheel bearings??
Dirk
Hope this helps!
I had a Dodge shadow and the rear drum brakes for that car had the drum and wheel bearing part all pressed together as one. Little did I know, so I spent a LOT of effort to bang them apart with wood and sledge hammer, bought replacement drums (they had different brakes on same model car you could pick from) and tried to install, but the wheel studs interfered with the holes in the drum. Rather than go back to the parts store, I attempted to drill them out..... LOL What a mess. The proper part cost over $150, but it wouild have been way cheaper than the labor I spent messing with it!
Dirk
D
I have a 2002 GL w/PCS. Recently, a bunch of problems have cropped up. A few months ago, power windows stopped working. Fixed by dealer under warranty (I have 38900) on it. Would have cost $550.
Last week, the car stalled while I was on a highway off ramp. Not the first time its happened. When it stalls, of course, everything died. It was a dangerous situation and I nearly got hit and lost control of power brakes and steering.
Got it started again and brought it in. Dealer had all kinds of hell trying to fix it. A bunch of codes kept popping up. They ended up replacing the oxygen sensor, then replacing the intake manifold which had a major leak. They thought that would do it. Then they took it on a road test, and boom, it died at speed on them. Brought it back, ran codes, and this time they say it was the ignition switch so they replaced it. That makes no sense to me.
Anyway, now I have it back. Not sure if its fixed or not. Anybody have insights here? I'm concerned, I can't have this car dying at speed on me or my wife. Very dangerous.
If it wasn't warranty work, total cast here would have been north of $1350. The warranty expires 10/2007, so I have a year and a half left. I'm concerned about whats going to happen after that.
I just replaced the stock RSA's with Continental ContiExtreme Contact tires. Certainly changes the feel of the car...handling is so much better. My RSA's were gone anyway. Also they found I had virtually nothing left on my back rotors and replaced them. My fronts already were replaced under warranty after brake problems. They had been resurfaced twice before that.
Also, I had the ISS work done.
Troubling...now I do drive the hell out of this car, but...all the more reason its troubling. Not much I can do about my commute or how its used.
Do some reading on this forum and you'll be able to pick up on the trouble areas. Overall it the Intrigue is a good vehocle, I would not be concerned.
Oldsmobile Intrigue GLS - V6 3.5L (215 hp) 4A + ABS
0 - 60 Time(seconds): 6.99
1/4 Mile Time(seconds): 15.41
1/4 Mile Speed(mph) 93.00
Braking 60 - 0 mph (ft.)140
So you see my concern---all those things were in fact wrong with the car, but weren't the actual stall problem.
Speaking of, last night, after all the fixes, guess what---Engine light back on. Car seemed like it wanted to quit, headlights flickered. It stayed alive, for now at least.
Also, the big time "clunk" is back when I steer. I've already had the ISS replaced once. From the sound and feel, its gone again. Yesterday I could barely keep the car straight.
39k miles. Super. I'm as a big of a GM guy as you get, but you know what: I'm starting to get fed up. For the first time, I actually entertained the notion of owning, gasp, an Accord.
Not sure why your guys replaced the o2 sensor just based on codes, they did not do diagnotics just replace parts. Alas, its all too typical of car dealer shops these days, they throw part on it until it runs right but they never did really understand what was going on.
Thanks folks for the 0-60 info. My max feels faster on the road with its 5 speed directly connected and high numerical final drive gear (3k rpm at 70mph) but until then its all Intrigue, and much easier to do it with less fanfare.
Dirk
Says that the service engine soon light malfunctioned. Shouldn't have come back on, there are no codes. Ok, fine. Lets hope it doesn't stall again.
Looked at the Internal Steering Shaft. Broken beyond repair/lube. This one lasted less than 15k. Replacing under warranty.
Does this make sense to anyone? You have a faulty part which you know is faulty. It is virtually certain to fail. So when it does, you...replace it with the SAME EXACT part. Which will break, but since simply is new. I suppose the strategy is to keep doing this until you are out of warranty.
Super. Its just shocking to see GM lose money.
I looked at a 2006 Accord V6 EX yesterday. 244 HP V6, stability control, leather, heated seats, sunroof, 6 disc cd changer, xm, power seats on both sides, etc etc. Everything but Nav. MSRP was $27800. They're selling them under invoice for $24500.
Not such a bad deal, is it?
I think its a bit harsh to say that the part will (with certainty) break, as it appears that 99+% of the folks only need to have the ISS relubricated with the kit.
Perhaps you drove the car with the thing binding up and it wore out? who knows, but I don't think they are breaking a lot.
I would agree, this is a part I never thought I'd have to replace, but I had to get one on my '95 Dodge Ram PU replaced, it had steering issues with wierd popping noises and sensations.
Not sure what the major imports ( I guess you need to say Foreign Mfg's nowadays) do for this part, they need something similar but I don't recall ever hearing of a Honda needing anything like this.
Dirk
I bought tires yesterday for my Intrigue. After much research, I settled on Bridgestone Potenza G009. I got a very good deal - install, balance, road hazzard, tax, etc... - $398. Plus, Bridgestone has a mail in rebate for $50 right now. That brings my tire only price down to $56.50 per tire. These are "H" rated performance tires. Tire Rack rated them fairly high. My first impression is they stick much better than the original Goodyear RS-A, but they make more noise. The RS-A is rated poorly, but in my opinion, they are ok, but pricey. They had 51,000 mi on them and still had tread left, but they started to scare me in the rain and snow.
The diagnostic test code always says something along the lines of lack of oxygen.
My first attempts at getting this fixed did not work. After $1500, I decided I could live with difficult to start.
The problem has gotten worse recently, although it is the same problem.
Does this problem sound familiar to anyone?? I don't feel safe in this car anymore b/c it stalls while I'm driving. I owe too much on it ($3000) to just go get another car.
Any suggestions? Please help. Also, if anybody knows a good mechanic in the Cleveland area who might be of assistance, please let me know.
Thanks.
What is the code number?
Thanks
Bob
Comments?
I am just wondering if anyone is having problems with the outer tie rod ends wearing out?
I have 98 GL with 53K on it. Last February, with only 42K it started making a rubbing noise when turning left. The dealer said the only way to fix it was to replace the entire steering rack. I got a second opinion from an independent shop, they said it needed new struts and strut mounts. A third place said it was the left outer tie rod end. They squirted some grease into it and it got quite. Problem solved? No. In February of this year, it started being noisy again, so I had more grease squirted in. That made it quite for about a week. The noise sounds like when you take a McDonald’s cup and move the straw up and down slowly through the hole in the lid. It is as loud as an old truck that has not had its front end greased for twenty years. I have been doing research and am not seeing to many people with this problem. I did find a TSB link title that implicates faulty engineering. I think GM should pay to replace my tie rod ends. Any advice on what to do next?
The vehicle is 8 years old, out of warranty and out of production. What do you want GM to do?