BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair

riez · October 2004

Essentially impossible to compare your own tire wear to the tire wear of a couple of other people. Too many important variables aren't equal. Things like:

- the road surfaces you drive on
- how you drive
- the tires on the cars (not all 5s ride on same tires, not even all 540i)
- air pressure maintenance of the tires (esp. if the tires are under- or over-inflated); no two people will have the same air pressures over time
- temperature
- the actual suspension set up of each car (not all cars arrive to buyer in factory spec; just hit a pothole or curb hard and it will affect your suspension)
- loads carried

Etc.

andys120 · October 2004

I recently joined the Bimmoisie by way of a beautiful MY 2000 E39 (528iA). I was taken aback by the recommended tire pressures, 33F/41R (in both the manual and the striker plate). Frankly I'd never heard of such a rear-biased set-up, especially considering there's slighly more weight up front (52%).

I got even more confused when I checked to see the actual tire pressures which were 29 psi all around. The car was delivered to me by a dealer who is a leading independent specialist in pre-owned BMWs.

Tires are Michelin Energy All-Season 225/55HR-16
and the cars delivers outstanding levels of ride and cornering IMO.

Anyone wanna take a shot at unconfusing me?

-E39s Forever!

warthog · October 2004

Since I can't help your confusion, I'll add to it: the recommended tire pressure on your striker plate and manual is less for Europe! Or at least it is on my 2003 E39 530. I guess the air in Europe is denser due to the political climate.

designman · October 2004

If the plane of rotation is not parallel to the direction of travel the tire scrubs, that is, grates against the road. Excessive wear on the inner edge of the tire points to excessive toe-out. Of course, negative camber on BMWs would exacerbate it. Conversely, toe-in creates excessive wear on the outer edge.

I would imagine that in BMWs efforts to create optimal performance settings tolerances are sometimes exceeded. So Atomicpunk (post #825), I think a toe adjustment on the rear wheels would get you longevity on those tires. Ditto ajj (post #819).

BTW if anyone disagrees with me, don't shoot the messenger. I got this from what appears to be a well-written if not totally-comprehensive article that appeared in Grassroots Motorsports written by engineer John Hagerman. The regulars around here usually provide very helpful information so I am in no way trying to be confrontational.

Warthog, LMAO, you're too much ;-)

Here's that article:
http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html

manybmws · October 2004

The Michelin Pilot Sport A/S has a tread wear rating of 400 vs. the 200 of the two tires you mentioned.

dallas92 · October 2004

I have the same problem in my '04 545, it's been to the dealer several times, they cannot fix it, they tell me "BMW is not a quiet car, it's a performance car, buy a Lexus if you prefer a quiet car". Now, I have a rattle in the driver's door and it's getting louder as the temperature is dropping.

rich545 · October 2004

They actually said that??? How incredibly stupid! I have an '04 545 as well and you can tell your dealer that mine doesn't have a single rattle. So either I got the only "quiet" BWM or your dealer is full of you-know-what. Tell them to get off their lazy asses, stop making excuses and fix your $65K+ perfomance car. As if rattles have anything to do with performance (other than detracting from your enjoyment of it). If they won't you should contact BMW directly and complain. I think if you told BMW what they said that dealer would be getting a call real soon. Ridiculous!

manybmws · October 2004

concur!

erice · October 2004

I am looking into buying a mid to late 90's 540i. Is there anything in particular I should be looking for?

Are there any probs with particular year models.

What oem/aftermarket equipment is the most desirable?

Should I be worried about buying a BMW with 130k miles already?

What kind of maintenance should I expect to be coming on BMW's of this age and miles? - engine, trans, electronics...etc

Any comments would be greatly app. I enjoy the topics and replies in this forum.

Thanks in advance for any and all help.

andys120 · October 2004

E39's are '97-'03, E34s are from the earlier 90s.

<lookit Andy spout type numbers like a real Propellerhead :^)>

erice · October 2004

I have been talked out of the 540 by several diff sources. V8 probs after 100k miles, gas mileage, weight, diff steering feel...etc

so what is the best powerplant to have in a E39?

shipo · October 2004

Hmmm, I'm not sure that I'd shy away from the V8, however, since you ask, I've driven all three six cylinder versions (all manual transmission equipped) and can tell you that there is no contest, the 3.0 liter mill is by far the best.

Best Regards,
Shipo

erice · October 2004

I'm having a hard time finding 3 liter E39's in my price range. were they not produce in the late 90's?

what is the "A" in 528iA?

What does the factory sports package consist of on the 528/530 and could I upgrade non-sports package to sports package on a used machine?

riez · October 2004

erice... Ya gotta crack open the books. Surf the web. Do some research.

"A"= automatic. Just an informal designator used by many to separate out manuals from automatics.

Equipment on Sport Pkg changed from year to year. Seemed like it was a bit more comprehensive in the last couple years of the E39 (say MYs 2002 and 2003) than before. Included things like upgraded tires and alloy wheels, suspension mods, Sport Seat, revised trim, etc.

A 528i or 530i manual with Sport Pkg is a magnificent car. Even a 525i manual with Sport Pkg is a very nice car. But the key is to get a manual transmission and the Sport Pkg.

From your posts, I wonder if an older used 5 Series is really right for you and your needs. Don't get one if all you are looking for is prestige. If you don't know what you are doing, you'll pay a lot for a used car that could be a maintenance nightmare! Buying older used BMWs is not for amateurs or the faint of heart.

Do you know a good independent mechanic who specializes in BMWs? If not, I wouldn't recommend a 1990s BMW.

div2 · October 2004

Here's an excerpt from a post I made in the 5er forum a few weeks ago:

>My wife uses a 109000 mile 1997 528iA as her commuter sled. Aside from a failed windshield washer motor($35), the fuel door hinge($12), and a power steering hose($80), it has only required scheduled maintenance over the past two years and 32000 miles. City/suburban fuel mileage averages 21 mpg while an 80 mph interstate cruise will net 28 mpg. In most cases, the best way to keep maintenance costs reasonable is to find a GOOD independent BMW tech; you will save 25%-50% on service compared to the dealer. All modern BMWs use a Service Interval Indicator to inform the driver when routine maintenance is required. On a 1998 5er an oil change will be called for at @9000 mile intervals. A minor service(Inspection I) will come up at @18000 miles and a major (Inspection II) service at @36000 miles. An oil change using synthetic oil will cost $60-$100, an Inspection I $150-$300, and an Inspection II $450-$800. Coolant must be changed every three years-using BMW Coolant ONLY, while the DOT4 brake fluid gets flushed every two years. In the newer cars I change the so-called "Lifetime" ATF fluid and final drive oil every 100000 miles. Brakes on the 528i tend to wear quickly. Count on changing the front pads about every 20000 miles and the rear every 50000. Though most dealers don't agree, you only need to change the rotors every other pad change. Note that my cost numbers are approximate. For example, if you change the oil yourself using a BMW filter and Mobil 1 or BMW synthetic the cost will be under $40. On the other hand, my local BMW dealer charges very reasonable rates for some of the services that I don't have the time and/or desire to perform. The dealer only charged me $110 to change the ATF AND the synthetic final drive oil. Last month they changed the coolant and the brake fluid for just $143. The 1997-2001 Fives are wonderful durable cars. It was/is widely regarded to be the finest sedan in the world.<

In your case I would also want any potential purchase inspected by a good BMW tech. In your price range the 528i is probably the only six cylinder choice available since the 525i and 530i were added to the range after 2000. My wife's car is an automatic and lacks the Sport Package, but it is still an engaging car to drive. The 528i automatics are GM units which have proven to be quite robust. I know of several 528iAs which have hit 200K miles with 60K-90K mile ATF changes. The only down side of the Sport Package is that it requires you to buy a set of winter tires if you plan to drive in icy or snowy conditions. Many owners mount the winter tires to a another new/used/aftermarket set of wheels which allows them to perform the swap themselves. That said, if a 5er was my only car I would want the Sport Package and the MT. In my case, I fortunately have a 1995 3er track rat to drive when I want to carve up a twisting two lane, so our "vanilla" 528iA serves it's intended purpose quite well.

erice · October 2004

I appreciate your expert input. It is true that I haven't kept up with the bimmer world and have forgotten much that I learned when I was younger.

I actually own a 1970 2002 and an E28 (533i trying to sell). I was raised reading my dads issues of Roundel. I have owned the 2002 for 15 years(been in storage) and the E28 has been in our family since new. (20 years) We have performed all of our own maintenance on all of our cars. (he is engineer and I used to be full time wrench - pilot now - different kind of propellerhead).

I have much more time these days (and quite a bit more cash) and a strong desire to re-match the knowledge of BMWs with the love I have for them.

I am sorry to appear a newbie - but I will catch up with all of your professional help. I promise.

I hope you all don't mind me asking silly questions, though, because the 15 years I was away from the hobby has really put me behind the power curve.

erice · October 2004

Fantastic info!! Can't thank you enough for your time.

I live in So. California. My commute consists of an 8 mile drive on 1 street to the airport. I want the E39 to drive to the beach (with my 2 young boys - trying to get them hooked) through the canyons. Or to the golf course (once again through the canyons). And of course the occasional trip to Vegas with my wife.

From all the info I have so far, I am going to start looking for a 528i, 5 speed, sport package, only driven by an old lady to church on Sundays and the grocery store on Wednesdays. LOL

I wonder if I should look for non-sports pack and budget in the upgraded suspension, wheels and tires - doing the work myself after purchase?

Love this forum!!

jack13 · October 2004

I received a car fax report on a 2004 545i I was going to purchase at a BMW dealership which noted two entries relating to "electrical system serviced." The first was in November 2003 and the second in March 2004. The dealer claimed these were just update to the computer performed by the dealership. Can anyone let me know if there actually were requests by BMW to bring 545's to the dealer for these computer updates? The car otherwise seemed in good shape, and everything worked. Dealer was asking 52K. The car has 6000 miles. Thanks.

div2 · October 2004

One of the first things you need to do-if you haven't already-is join the BMW Car Club: www.bmwcca.org . You'll save a bundle on parts discounts alone. Buy the Bentley manual and the Peake FCX code reader and(like me) you'll be able to handle most of the maintenance yourself. As for aftermarket suspensions, you have to remember that each setup has different ride, handling, and NVH characteristics- all based on the priorities of the engineer who designed the kit. In my opinion, it's hard to improve the BMW Sport Packages; they strike an excellent balance between ride and handling. That said, if you eventually plan to track the car and/or you are wiling to sacrifice some ride comfort for 10/10ths handling you may be better served by an aftermarket kit. Whatever you do, try to drive another 528i fitted with the suspension package you are considering-it's much better to find out that a certain kit isn't you cup of tea BEFORE it's installed on your car.

jas · October 2004

I have 3000 miles on a 545i I took delivery on in August - so far no problems. Since your potential car will be under warranty for another 44K miles, I would not be too worried about it.

I would look at the service records - it should tell you exactly what the problem was and if the owner had brought it in complaining about a problem.

Since the car was in service in November of 2003, it is an early production and with all of the computer systems and functions, I would not be surprised if there has been a couple of software upgrades, ecspecailly with some of the issues I had seen with automatic trans shift points and navigation.

FYI: I would make sure it had the sports package - active roll and steering are truly amazing. I was not sure about the active steering - but after about 3 miles I was sold on it. The active roll gives a better ride than the 540 series.

The V-8 is outstanding! Enjoy!

jas · October 2004

I have a 545i. I was wondering if anyone has checked the computer calculated mpg with actual.

I am seeing about a 5-6 mpg discrepancy in the calculated versus actual. I am resetting the calculated mpg and miles after a fill and my units are set for english (miles/mpg).

I am seeing actual (based on miles and fuel pumped) of 21-23 and the calculated is 27-30. This is consistent over the last 6 tanks. I have been varying the speeds and gears alot during the initial break-in and driving alot of highway miles, which should not affect this.

I would expect it to have an error of 1 mpg, but not 5-6.

andys120 · October 2004

I did a 252 mile trip in 4:05 which works out to about 62.5 mph, not the 66.3 the computer gave me.

erice · October 2004

I have been looking for E39 2.8L with man. trans and sport package. I am limiting my search to silver with black a close second.

I have found many without the sport pack with clean carfax and lots of maint records.

Has anyone tried to upgrade to factory sports pack by using dealer supplied parts...shocks, springs, sway bars?

I understand that the BMW sports pack is such a wonderful compromise between ride and performance that it is hard to improve upon.

I'm not that worried about the black-out trim and the 3 spoke steering wheel. Looks are secondary to performance.

Thanks for all/any replies.

jas · October 2004

I have not tried upgrading a BMW to a sports suspension, but I have restored/rebuilt cars in the past - I would not consider this an option.

Find a good independent BMW mech, who could give you an idea of what is involved. My guess is that it is not a matter of slapping on a few components. Usually the ride height of the sports suspension cars is lower and setup with lower profile tires, bigger rims as well as bigger brakes...

So, one component change leads to another...$$$. Find out the cost of having someone do it before hand.

I think you would be money ahead by upgrading to a bigger engine or driving 500 miles for a car that has the sports package already - it will be cheaper in the long run. They are out there, it just may take a little time to find it.

You may have already done this, but search on www.cars.com - it will list most cars available in whatever driving distance you are looking for.

erice · October 2004

Thanks Jas. Appreciate the input.

There is a super clean '98 non-sport pack available about 35 miles away from me. The maintenance recs are perfect and it hasn't been taken advantage of.

All of the sport pack cars I have looked at look like they have been road hard and put away wet.

I'll keep looking. I'm in no hurry, really...just excited to get back into the game.

div2 · October 2004

If I had to drive my wife's 1997 528iA all the time, here's what I would do:

1.Larger front and rear anti-roll bars @$400
2.Bilstein HD Shocks @$500
3.540i front calipers and rotors @$350?
4.16 or 17 inch wheels and summer
high performance tires @$1200-$3000
5.Conforti Shark Injector and Cold Air Intake $710

The brake upgrade really isn't necessary, but it more than doubles the front brake pad life and you can usually pick up an inexpensive set of used calipers and brackets from a 540i owner who is upgrading to Brembos or some other high-zoot setup. The above changes won't turn your 5er into an M3 eater but they will give the sled a broader performance envelope than 95% of the non-BMWs on the road today. Not bad for less than $4000.

div2 · October 2004

My wife has always been unhappy with the flimsy cupholders fitted to her 528iA. Cupholders have never been a priority for me so I haven't spent much time searching for a solution. However, last week I was window shopping at the BMW Store in Cincinnati when I saw the TEC engineering cupholder:
http://tecaccessories.com/index.html . I decided to give it a try. While I was at it I also picked up a stainless steel insulated BMW tumbler(BMW Part # 99 00 0 003 908). The device took all of about two minutes to install, the tumbler fits perfectly, and my wife loves it. Highly Recommended.

jas · October 2004

I would drive a non sport package and sport package car and see what works for you. A non-sport package car might be fine.

However, from the sounds of it, I think you would regret buying a non-sport package car for the times where you can really get on it.

I am sure there is a clean one out there with your name on it.

bmwna · October 2004

Im with BMW of North America, LLC. Im so sorry to read you are being bothered by a rattle. If you and your BMW center need our assistance, please phone us at (800) 831-1117, and mention Reference #200429400265 so that we can help you more efficiently.

erice · October 2004

The list of upgrades you list is almost exactly what I had anticipated for a sport upgrade.

However, would the Bilsteins alone lower the ride height? I would think that would raise the spring rate considerably.

I don't want to go super low...just as low as the stock sport pack.

The money you list is comparable to the extra premium people are asking for the sport-pack models. i.e.- non sports = $15,900 clean and sports are going for about 20k - all else being equal.

Thanks for the info Div

div2 · October 2004

Great minds think alike

No, the HDs won't lower the car, but in my case I don't want the car lowered-I live at the end of a .5 mile gravel farm road. And, the HDs work great with OEM springs; I loved them on my Bavaria 3.0 and 535is. Most all of the E39 aftermarket springs(BAS, Eibach, etc.) will drop the car @1.25 inches and cost $300-$400, if you go that route you'll need to use the Bilstein Sports. Note that the Sports and HDs have identical damping rates-the only difference is that the Sports are designed to work with shorter springs. If you are really lucky, you might find someone who has ditched his OEM sport springs for an aftermarket set.

erice · October 2004

That's what I'm thinking. OEM sport springs, Bilstein Sports, heavier sway bars, and 17" wheels.

I could prob even find a set of OEM bars.

I haven't ruled out the non-sport pack just yet.

It would be nice though, to just have to add the Conforti injector and cold air kit and be done with it.

Thx

dallas92 · October 2004

Thank you so much for taking the time to post a message. My car had other problems as well, mainly with its computer system, which apparently crashed (no one admitted to it) and it spent 23 days at the dealer (7-8 visits) and I asked for my money back or another car which they finally agreed to, I am giving BMW a second and final chance hoping for a better experience this time around. Currently, the car is at the preparation center and should be arriving to my dealer within days. To date, none of the current problems has been fixed. I'll be glad to provide you with more info. if you are interested. It's been a terrible experience, except for the performance.

Again, thank you for your input.

tjatja · November 2004

My 1998 528i has always had an issue of the motorized steering wheel adjustment sometimes not working, but it always resolves on it's own. I've resigned myself to the fact that it's a gremlin and learned to live with it. Yesterday the clock on the radio disappeared AND the turn signal arrows on the dash went out (no relay click either) BUT the turn signals still work. These may be independent issues but the same day thing is awfully coincidental. All fuses in glove box and trunk check out fine. Any ideas?

grios1 · November 2004

Hi, I have the same rattle on the left side. Sounds like its in the door but not sure. I havent taken it in yet but will soon.

my2004 525 3000mi

cassidym · November 2004

I've got a 2005 545 and have noticed a rattle in the driver's cup holder when it is opened with a bottle of water in it. If I close the holder the rattle disappears. Could this be the same thing?

debra5 · November 2004

I have a 1998 528-i which I purchased new in late October, 1998--it is just a few days over 6 years old and has 65,000 miles. I treat my cars well--every scheduled service at the local BMW dealer, detailed at least every 6 months, lots of TLC. I've just returned from the dealer because the "check engine" light was on *again*. Just 2 weeks ago the light came on and my car died in the fast lane before I could even pull over. The problem was a faulty idle valve which cost me $584. Today I hear the new problems are the vanos, vanos gasket, camshaft sensor, valve cover gasket, radiator, expansion tank, and radiator cap for a lovely total of $1985! In looking through my receipts I realize that I've spent $5085 in repairs in the past year--NOT counting the newest estimate of $1985. They've previously told me at the same Santa Monica BMW dealer that the suspension is "bad" and that the transmission is "weird" and will eventually need to be replaced because it makes "clunky" noises but I've not even gotten into pricing those repairs.

How can a car that has been serviced every time the yellow light comes on, that has only 65,000 miles, and has never been in an accident or mistreated be such a piece of expensive junk? Can anyone tell me what I've done wrong? I've got to get a new car now but I'm afraid of another bad BMW experience.

debra5 · November 2004

I had the exact same problem with my 1998 528i about 9 months ago. I'd be driving along and suddenly my steering wheel would adjust itself. Or my radio would come on (after having been out of service). It was rather stressful wondering which gremlin would scare me the most and hoping the steering wouldn't readjust itself while I was on the freeway. It turned out to be a problem with the on-board computer and, as I recall, it was not an inexpensive repair. Good luck.

div2 · November 2004

You really need to get a second opinion from a good independent BMW tech. My wife's 1997 528iA work hack has 109,000 miles on it and, aside from a radiator cap-a whopping seven dollars, NONE of the items you mentioned have needed attention. As for the suspension, one tie rod end has been replaced. The autobox is also operating perfectly As a matter of fact, I service her sled by the book and over the past two years and 30,500 miles I have spent less than $1750 on maintenance and repairs. Methinks your dealer is trying to hose you.

stl540 · November 2004

I have been away from the forum for a few months. Work and family has kept me very busy.

I read through the post of the past couple months and wanted to give my $.02 on a couple topics discussed.

My 2002 540iA SP now has 42K miles and has been a great car. Unfortunately, I was in a hail storm in June where my car received hail damage while parked at work ($2000). Needless to say, I was not in a good mood the rest of the day/week/month afterward. My BMW faired much better than the most of the cars in the same parking lot. The size of the dings to my car was smaller than the other cars, but we all had a lot of dings. Only very anal people (i.e. ME) really noticed the hail damage on my car. I had Dent Wizard perform the paintless dent removal and they did a great job. Everything is back to normal. My only concern is if the interior door panels, head rest, etc they had to remove will rattle after time. So far, NO rattles at all.

I will go to the dealer for my 45K mile oil change soon. I need to have them replace the cup holders for the 2nd time. They are way too cheap in such a well built car.

I had the service engine light stay on last week for less that 5 miles. It went off the next day. I did not have any sluggish performance or any other noticable impact while the light was on. I will have the dealer look at it when I get the oil changed. Car is still under warranty.

My original Dunlop SP2000 tires made it to 28K miles. The outside of my front tires really showed a lot of wear. The rear tires were also close to their limits, but wore evenly. I have been known to take corners a little faster than the posted limits. The Dunlops got very noisy for the last few thousand miles. I put separate snow wheel and tires for winter driving last season. They were fantastic. I do not like how my car looks 'utilitarian' with my snow wheels installed, but I can safely go anywhere in the snow.

I purchased Firestone Firehawk summer tires in March based on reviews on Tirerack.com. I have never owned Firestone before these. The tires are quiet, but do not have the grip I expected or desired. It is too easy to spin the tires. The original Dunlops did not spin near as much as the Firestone. I thought of getting the Bridgestone S03s but I did not want to change my tires every 12-15K miles (approx 9 months), since I drive 18K-20K miles a year. I read some people only get 12-15K miles on a set of the S03.

Other than the minor issues listed above, the car has been wonderful. It is an amazing feeling to get back into 540i after driving a Chrysler Sebring conv on vacation for 8 days. The 540i offers the driver a completely different driving experience than almost any other car on the road.

jas · November 2004

I would take div2's advice and get a second opinion from a good independent BMW tech.

My buddies 2001 540 w/ 75k started running hot on his way to work, so he dropped it off at a dealer. It was the thermostat. But they also said he needed to replace the radiator, waterpump and power steering hoses. Since it was under a 100k warranty, it was not a problem. But, I think these dealers try to replace everything.

I would as the question: is the check engine light caused by the vanos or camshaft sensor, or are they guessing?. What's the deal with the radiator or expansion tank - have you seen leaks?

All valve covers seep a little over time. A little evidence of oil from the cover without evidence of burning is not a reason to change the gasket in my book.

Always ask the question WHY? and have them explain in detail what the problem is. Ask them what is the result of not doing the repair. That will help you to determine if they are just snowing you.

Once I had a dealer tell me I needed new spark plug wires because I they had a cut in the insulation. They where just changed 20k miles prior. After questioning them, the cut was a mar and would not cause a problem.

Good luck.

jas · November 2004

check out a previous posting on the cup holders:
http://tecaccessories.com/index.html

Sorry to hear about the hail damage. I am anal also, I hate to screw up a factory paint job.

My buddy recently put on Yokohama ES100 tires on his 540 (replacing the original Dunlops at 33k). He has been happy with the performance and traction, their treadwear is fairly high and they are reasonably priced. I have not decided whether to go with these or the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S which have a 400 treadwear when it is time to change. I too drive 15-20k/year.

div2 · November 2004

I was wondering about the radiator as well. I know that the 540 radiators are failure prone, but I rarely hear of problems with the sixes.

grios1 · November 2004

Hi, I wanted to relate my story and a warning to new 5 series owners. I recently found out that the spare tire wheelwell in the trunk has an electronic module that controls the stereo and I-drive screen at the bottom of the wheelwell. I placed a water hydration pack (Camelback)in the trunk. Unware to me, the pack some how leaked and the water pooled at the bottom of the whellwell. A few days later I smelled a scent like burning wires. The next day the stereo and screen went out.
I took the vehicle in and was advised that it would not be covered under warranty. $500 worth of damage. I think that the bottom of the spare tire wheelwell is an odd place to have an electronic module of such importance but who am I.

So be careful not to spill anything in the trunk!!!!

dallas92 · November 2004

I received my 2005 545 but to my disappointment, it had 10 times the rattle that I experienced in my 2004. It was all coming from the back, I returned the car after 2 days. When you spend that much money on a car you simply cannot just tune the rattle out. Performance wise it's superb but the rattle can only get worse especially when no one at BMW can address it.

juniorbmw · November 2004

Does anybody know where to purchase some door edge trim products?

Possibly color coded, and the kind that stick by adhesive?

I park in a tight spot & opening & closing the doors might damage the doors to the Beamer.

stl540 · November 2004

I ran across this Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) on squeaking noises from the door frame in the E60.

http://www.alldata.com/tsb/BMW/1088665200000_1095145200000_510704- /510704.html

There is some interesting info to skim at your leisure. Many of the BMW TSBs that I quickly scanned are for the E60 and the Mini Cooper.

Main site:
http://www.alldata.com/tsb/index.html

stl540 · November 2004

My wife has the clear door guards on her silver Acura. It was installed by the dealer. It is barely noticable and does a good job protecting the edge of the door when she 'rests' the door against the garage wall, etc. The guard is stuck on to the door by an adhesive. I believe it is the same type of material that some people put on the front of their cars to protect from rock chips. Her car is 3 years old and there is no discoloration to the guard.

Check with a local window tinting company. I bet they would have info on the product.

fishdreams · November 2004

Hey- I have a 2000 528i (5-sp, SP, PP). About a week ago I would hit the gas and the car just did not want to go- it felt like the engine was flooding. It did this a couple of times more (intermittently) and then the service engine soon light came on (and stayed on). Then I had no problems for a couple of days and Sat. nite the light went off and has stayed off. We had a lot of rain here around the time the problem started so I thought I may have just gotten some bad gas (I buy Shell usually, but I guess it's possible some water got into the gas). The gas cap has always been on tight so that was not it. Naturally, the car is now 6 weeks out of warranty. Do I need to take it in now that the problem seems to have fixed itself? I was hoping to wait and see if the problem resurfaced, but don't want to damage anything if there really is something wrong. Any feedback would be appreciated.

div2 · November 2004

The CEL will go off after several engine start/stop cycles IF the engine management system no longer detects a problem. The fault code remain stored in the ECU. Any Autozone will read the fault codes at no cost to you. If you plan to hold on to the car you might want to get one of these: http://peakeresearch.com/code_tool.htm

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