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Honda Accord Quality Control Issues
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Before we got them here a lot of people argued that they didn't want them or need them.
I never hear a complaint against them now though.
Actually, on some cars the look really good because they will use the blinker as the DRL instead of the regular headlight, like on the PT Cruiser. BTW a DRL is not as bright as a low beam headlight, but it sure increases visibility.
Thanks
http://www.dcsports.com
http://www.pacificinsight.com/aftermarket/after.htm
I'm changing it at 7500 to be safe but I'm not gonna be religious about it. I'll go 8500 if I don't have the time.
I have seen or heard horror stories about quick oil change/lube establishments.
I purchased two of the them. Will let everyone know how things turned out at my next oil change.
are you suggesting that supertech should be changed every 3k or can i changed at 5k??
thanks,
chiggaraccord4
anyway, my 03 i4 accord is approaching its first oil change.....oil filter and honda 5w20
do you know if the oil filter is the same as 02 i4 accord?
thanks,
chiggaraccord4
http://www.kn-air-filters.com/Oil_Filter.html
"...anyway, my 03 i4 accord is approaching its first oil change.....oil filter and honda 5w20
do you know if the oil filter is the same as 02 i4 accord?"
Dunno about 2003 model filters, but my best ~guess~ is that Honda did NOT make a change. Check and/or post over at bobistheoilguy.com. ~Someone~ will chime in. By the way, the Honda 5W-20 is apparently made by Mobil. Good stuff, but by no means the only game in town. For around $1.80/qt., WalMart sells that 5W-20 grade in branded Pennzoil and Ford Motorcraft oil, too. The Motorcraft 5W-20 is actually made by Conoco and uses their "Hydroclear" iso-dewaxed severely hydrogen-processed Group III base oils blended with Group II - think of the combo as a semi-synthetic. Pennzoil's 5W-20, and all their other grades of conventional dino oil, are formulated with their own "Pennzane" Group III base oils, along with Group-II base oils, too. For those who're unfamiliar with "Group III" type base oils, these are the hooza-hooza penultimate dinosaur juices. They mimic many of the more desirable qualities of traditional PAO (PolyAphaOlefin) synthetics at a working man's pricepoint, and come out of the spiggot so pure that they're water white, odorless*, and are also non-toxic so that they're licensed to be used in cosmetics as well as industrial food preparation machinery in which trace amounts of lubricant could come in contact with the food. Group IIIs exhibit nearly as broad a viscosity range as traditional PAOs, and high flash points (well over 400 degrees F.). All of Pennzoil's conventional dinosaur juice oils are blends of Group II and Group III base oils now and probably represent as close to a sneak preview of next year's GF-4/SM conventional oils as you can get currently. In fact, only Mobil 1 is the only retail off-the-shelf PAO based full synthetic in the U.S.now. ALL other retail off-the-shelf "full synthetics" are group III based with appropriate amounts of di-ester and polyalkeneglycol base oils added for elastomeric seal pliability and extreme pressure anti-wear qualities. My only gripe with the Group-III based "full synthetics" is that Group-III base oils cost about half as much to produce as PAO base oils. But, the retail pricing still does not reflect a fully proportional savings. I don't work for any of the oil companies either. Sorry for the long-winded rant - just trying to pass along some useful info. (Anyone who gets hooked on a lubrication-enthusiast forum obviously doesn't have a life...)
*If you buy Pennzoil, don't expect it to be water white and odorless. There is still the minimal amount of stinky, dark, Group-I base oil used as the carrier for the additive package chemistry.
Okay, so you're saying that ALL of Pennzoil's have group III base oils. What about Motorcraft? Only the 5W20 is group III based?
I'm asking because I have an old Taurus that drinks 5W30 (and apparently swallows, belches, and slobbers back out).
What's your opinion, as suggested by a post under "Periodic Maintenance," I believe, about the importance of crankcase oil filters ?
The hypothesis was that with higher-quality oils and better-engineered modern engines, the oil filter is like the appendix that's no longer necessary and consequently, a motor can make it to 100k miles with a wear rate that's indifferent to the presence of an oil filter.
Thanks.
chiggaraccord4
As to the controversy about the need for oil filtration:
1> It's probably a good idea to have ~something~ screwed onto the nipple and sealing the mounting base <snicker>.
2> There is logic to the notion that oil filtration may be only minimally, if at all, necessary what with factory micro-finished bearing surfaces and the availability of high detergency oils. And, I'm aware that there are very conscientious owners who put 10,000 miles on a filter with no apparent problems - and have the oil analysis numbers to back it up. However, there is the issue of silicon entering as dirt through the air intake system and finding its way into the engine. Some inevitably gets past the air filter. (God's solution to finding a cheap, effective, universal abrasive was a resounding success!) So, for me, an oil filter is one more level of protection against that potential threat. In the end, if I can lay hands on a cheap but reasonably well-made oil filter, I don't consider changing both my oil and oil filter routinely a nettlesome burden. But then, I wear my obsessive-compulsive hat with pride.
The clock comes out by itself... you merely wrap a cloth around a blade screwdriver and pry up gently under the bottom of the clock. That releases the clips and it comes right out. BTW, they recommend putting a piece of masking tape on the dash under the clock, at the spot where you'll be doing the gentle prying.
The bulb is removed with a quarter turn of a screwdriver... it's the little flat thing on the passenger end of the clock. The replacement goes in and locks with the opposite 1/4 turn. Then you just slide the clock back in until it clicks. Took me all of 5 minutes. As for the price of the bulb, $5? I just paid around $1.40 at my dealer!
Illustrated instructions are included as part of the installation instructions for a in-dash CD player... here's the URL:
http://www.hparts.com/pdf/21617.pdf
http://www.chevron.com/prodserv/BaseOils/papers.shtml
Also, ChevronTexaco's sprawling lubricating oil base stocks plant is in Richmond, California, not Freemont, as posted above.
When a CD player is put in the LCD just displays ERR.
http://www.petitiononline.com/03Accord/petition.html
I have a 2001 Honda Accord LX. I have owned nothing but Hondas since 1986. However, this car and I seem to have bad Karma! The transmission broke just after 21,000 miles. There is info. on Honda's home page about this matter.
I was shocked when the transmission broke, but I got it replaced free. I was greatly inconvenienced because it happened Christmas Eve.
The dealer was NOT going to offer me a rental car, and had the audacity to tell me I was crazy. They had never had a problem with this vehicle. I showed them the (Not recall, but almost recall) piece on Honda's home page, telling of the possible problem with the transmission on this car, and the Passport and another model. So, when they checked the car out, this crazy woman was right. I don't know what they put in there. It was probably a re-manufactured part, but I have a warranty on the transmission.
After I called Honda Customer Service, they did get me a rental car. NOW, HOWEVER, the trade-in value of my car is very bad because the new transmission is not part of the original car, and it can not be certified as a used Honda car with the extended warranty. Is this my fault?? Honda offered me a $500 rebate on a new trade-in. However, I owe a million dollars on this car already.
Now I find out that the seal around the windshield is coming loose. And yes, I do have a strange squeaking noise in my car.
Last winter, I took it into the garage three times because there was a strange smell that came into the car when the heater was on. The smell had the aroma of anti-freeze. They could find no problem.
The value of my car is not good.
Maybe I should call Honda again and ask them if they will give me more on a trade-in.
Any ideas?
Anybody have any ideas?
I was disappointed because Honda is such a reputable car company. They said no company is ever responsible for helping out a victim. Sure, your car is devalued because of our poor quality control, but we don't care, because we make a million dollars, and drive other models, or get a different car to drive every day. Even the maintenance people were creeps. They got a bit nicer once I, the customer, called Honda directly.
Any comments or ideas would be appreciated.
Thank You.
HONDA RECALL SCOREBOARD
1990 thru 2003 Model Cars
as of MARCH 10, 2003
It seems as if quality is going down since 1990:
2003 Model Cars Recalls
PILOT 1
2002 Model Cars Recalls
ACCORD 1
CIVIC 1
ODYSSEY 1
2001 Model Cars Recalls
ACCORD 3
CIVIC 7
INSIGHT 1
PASSPORT 2
2000 Model Cars Recalls
ACCORD 10
CIVIC 5
CR-V 1
ODYSSEY 8
S2000 5
1999 Model Cars Recalls
ACCORD 4
CIVIC 3
CR-V 3
ODYSSEY 10
PASSPORT 1
PRELUDE 3
1998 Model Cars Recalls
ACCORD 6
CIVIC 4
CR-V 3
ODYSSEY 3
PASSPORT 5
PRELUDE 3
1997 Model Cars Recalls
ACCORD 5
CIVIC 3
CR-V 2
ODYSSEY 3
PRELUDE 3
1996 Model Cars Recalls
ACCORD 2
CIVIC 3
PRELUDE 1
1995 Model Cars Recalls
ACCORD 2
PASSPORT 1
1994 Model Cars Recalls
ACCORD 1
CIVIC 1
PASSPORT 4
1993 Model Cars Recalls
ACCORD 1
CIVIC 1
1992 Model Cars Recalls
ACCORD 1
CIVIC 1
1991 Model Cars Recalls
ACCORD 2
CIVIC 1
PRELUDE 1
1990 Model Cars Recalls
ACCORD 2
CIVIC 2
PRELUDE 1
See this link for more information:
http://mycarstats.com/Top10s/recalls_HONDA.asp
They are usually not a big deal. In the "old days" they didn't even exist.