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Honda Accord Quality Control Issues



  • mark339mark339 Posts: 3

    I bought a 2006 Accord EX sedan about 2 weeks ago and after a few days I've noticed a rattle/clicking sound coming from one of the wheels. Dealer cannot find the source (i.e., brake assemblies, suspension seems okay).

    Could you hear your sound at highway speeds or only at low speeds?
    Was it obvious to you where the exact source of the sound was coming from? That is, you knew that the sound was coming from somewhere around the right rear wheel area, or did it take you some time to pinpoint the source?

  • hqly2001hqly2001 Posts: 92
    Help.. after parking the car today in the garage.. i hear dropping sounds.. like loud water drops.. but thee's no leak.. could it be the gas casket underneat the car?
    i dunno why it would make such sound.. onyl had it for one day..
    it went away after 5 or so minutes.. but annoying...
    i've never had this issue with any car.. but then again i've never had a car where the gas tank is underneath the seat.. any thoughts??
  • blaneblane Posts: 2,017
    It's not "water drops". It is no doubt your sheet metal exhaust system cooling down. This is normal for most cars on the road today.
  • nifty56nifty56 Posts: 279
    I second that
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Many cars, including my 1996 Accord, our 1993 Accord, 2000 Odyssey, 1996 Chrysler SEbring Convertible, and both our new Accords (2005, 2006)...all made/make the exhaust ticking noise...easily could sound like water tinkling into something that resonates. Don't fret over your new baby!
  • when i got my car fixed after i got into an accident, they said the water noise is normal. so don't worry.
  • normkolnormkol Posts: 135
    The other responses are no doubt correct, but in this weather, with using AC, you will have water condensation dripping off the AC line for a while after you shut down.

    Either way, this is all normal.
  • hqly2001hqly2001 Posts: 92
    thanks guys... i think everything is ok with it.. except i'm only going about 230 miles from the original fill up..
    it was still at F when i got the car.. the guy drove 60 miles to deliver the car to me.. but after me putting on 170 miles.. i'm near E now.. i hope i will get more than 230 miles on a "full" tank when i fill it up..
    but i love it so far.. far better than 15 miles per gallon that my van was giving me.. yes!
  • hqly2001hqly2001 Posts: 92
    I also heard that you should break your car in slowly?
    i was revving it up to 5000k rpm.. but stopped doing so.. how do u break in a car? after reading some comments i'm now scared to gas hard.. it's ok to go 80+ right? lol..
    i saw a posting that someone did nto go over 45mph for the first 2000 miles.. freaked me out..
  • paulcudlippaulcudlip Posts: 33
    I remember when this forum was started that anselmo warned potential buyers of the V-6 Accord tranny problem.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Do exactly as your owner's manual says to. Avoid Jack-Rabbit Starts and excessive revving (I stayed under 4k RPM for the first 1,000 miles). Drive at varying engine speeds (don't set the cruise at the same speed for two hours). 80 is probably fine, because the engine will only be running at 2,700 RPM...hardly dangerous or harmful.

    Enjoy the new car!

    2006 EX I-4 Sedan Auto - 8,800 miles
  • blaneblane Posts: 2,017
    That was over 3,400 messages and three years ago.
  • cwalticwalti Posts: 185
    ...sorry I misspelled some words in the earlier posting...

    Hello I just wanted to tell everyone that HONDA really backs up their product.
    I just had the trans replaced a power door-lock (slider driver) and replaced the ignition interlock on a van that is OVER 7 years old and has almost 80,000 miles on the odo. No hassle, no BS just yes sir we will repair this under Honda's warranty service. I never bought an extended warranty either. I will drive nothing but Hondas from now on and I will most likely buy them at Norm Reeves in Cerritos SoCal!!!!

    Sidenote, - I had a lincoln continental, blew the trans at 72K, the motor at 75K and the suspension at 80Kmls. Ford told me to go fly a kite every time! Guess what? -- I dissuaded at least three peoples from buying a ford product, but have swayed at least six peoples to buy Hondas. I have three Hondas: a '91 Accord, a '99 Odyssey, and an '05 CR-V...
    And I really want to add an Element to the list... :-)
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 712
    Put an Extended Honda Warranty on this vehicle. I have a 2003 4 cylinder Accord,(purchased used). To date, Honda has put in $3,000.00 worth of repair on this vehicle, under the 7 year / 100,000 miles warranty. I would never own a vehicle without an extended warranty. Once I get to 99,500 miles this vehicle is history! I am already doing the research for the replacement vehicle. Some of the vehicles that I am considering are as follows: Honda Accord or Element, Ford 500, Chevrolet Impala or HHR, or Toyota Camry. The "BIG ISSUE" is the selling dealer and their service. My Honda dealer gives excellent service, even though my Accord was purchase used from an estate sale. Quality wise, I do not think that the other vehicles listed above are any better than the Accord. I would still purchase an extended warranty for the maximum years and mileage, and trade the vehicle once the warranty is over. One major repair could reflect the initial cost of the warranty.---- Best regards. ----- Dwayne ;) :)
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Posts: 3,475
    Has only been back to the dealership service dept. for a blown light in the heated seat switch. 45k miles too.
  • This is STILL a problem. I have to have a new tranny installed at 7000 miles in a 05 well as countless other issues that Honda claimed were all resolved 3 years ago.
  • 06accordx206accordx2 Posts: 17
    Are all these tranny problems I read about only with the V6?
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Posts: 3,475
    pervasive back in the earlier models. A couple transmission problems here and there is understandable in a car that sells 400,000 units, but back then there were several new people a week that were having problems.

    There was a guy saying Hondas have engine issues just because his 4 cylinder blew up in less than 500 miles. And his was an isolated occurence. But then Honda really DID come out later with porous engine blocks in a run of V6's that they readily admitted to. From my 15 year relationship with Honda, they usually own up to problems that effect the long-term reliability of the vehicles. They usually repair the problem long after the warranty expires.
  • cindjo2cindjo2 Posts: 2
    Hi all, this is my first time posting on this website. I just bought my first Accord brand new 06. My engine light went on , it hesitated hard and then bucked. I brought it in right away. The service person asked me if I "topped off" when I got gas the last time. I did in fact "top off". I was then told that this can cause damage to the engine due to a valve thats right near the gas tank that is for "vapor only". So by topping off one is risking gas to leak into this valve .I am very upset . I always topped off with my other vehicle which was a Nissan. I had 118,00 miles on her with never having to get her serviced , only normal wear and tear. I bought that car brand new also. I am really disapointed. I would think that there would be a warning on the inside where the gas cap is to caution the consumer of the damage that can occur from this with this vehicle. :(
  • robr2robr2 BostonPosts: 8,862
    Not topping off has been SOP for some years now. More than likely, your manual addresses it.

    The fuel system is part of the emissions system and pumping in extra fuel to round up the currency can cause problems as you discovered. In the old days, you could fill up to the filler neck.

    You didn't break anything, just avoid doing it in the future.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Posts: 3,475
    Topping off is not recommended. There is a recirulation system or something that could get damaged if you do.
  • cindjo2cindjo2 Posts: 2
    I know that "now". I got my car back today. the problem wasn't due to topping off at all. it wound up being a defective V Tec module? whatever that is., I know it has to do with what makes the engine work properly. I am glad that it wasn't caused by topping off. needless to say I will never top off again.. :)
  • Has anyone experienced a high pitch hum coming from the radio on a 2006 Accord? It's weird - I only hear it on FM/AM and CD but not on XM.

    The car is brand new - but wasn't sure if this problem was common.

  • rutan74rutan74 Posts: 20
    O.K. I have scanned a couple of the Honda forums and have found nothing save for one post concerning a sudden total electrical shutdown on my Accord.

    Background: 2003 V6 minus nav. Milage is approx 97K. Up until now, car has been basically trouble free. Car was bought new.

    Problem: About 2 weeks ago my wife tried to start the car while in the garage and there was no power. I mean no power. Total shutdown. No click, no dash lighting, nothing. She got out and went in the house and returned in a few minutes and tried again and the car started without problem.

    3 days ago, wife driving and pulling into a parking lot when the car completely lost all power. All dash lights went out and the car was completely dead. Luckily, she was able to coast to a stop safely. She got out and then back into the car and tried to start the car. The car started.

    Of course she told me of these two incidents and I sort of brushed them off as something flaky. I have over 16 years as a systems troubleshooter and know a little about fixing problems. Well at least on main frame computer systems.

    Fast forward to tonight. I am in the car with wife. We pull out into traffic and bam, the car completely goes dark. Nothing. Totally dead. Wife puts tranny into park and tries to start the car. Nothing. Not even a click. We move the shifter in and out of park and still nothing. Nothing works in the car. I then start to get out of the car by manually pulling the door lock nob. Once I do that and open the door, the car becomes energized. Dash lights up and we are able to start the car.

    These last two times, the power failure has been so severe that the clock needs to be re-set (blinking like when you disconnect the negative battery cable) which also requires the radio code to be re-entered.

    Now, this is huge in my estimation! I cannot find a thing on this and know of no recalls concerning this issue.

    Talk about a dangerous situation? Luckily both times we have lost total power while driving, we have been able to get stopped. Of course I am now wondering what would happen on the freeway or in the midst of making a turn or simply on the road at 50 mph or more.

    So, the car is off to the dealer tomorrow with a few choice words. This is a SAFETY issue to me plain and simple. I'm not sure how Honda will find this problem but this is a serious issue.

    I am here asking if anyone has had any experience with this type of problem? Could it possibily be tied to the door locks since that seemed to have restored power? Or could it be the ingnition key getting worn. I know intermittant electrical problems are tough to find, but this is not a minor issue and needs addressed.

    So, anyone have any ideas, opinions?

    Ohh, AC was on. We live in SC and so the average temp in July and August is 90 and the wife has the AC on all the time. Don't know if that has anything to do with it. Car is garaged at night, and has not suffered any water damage. Two years ago, car was in accident involving front end, but all was repaired.

    Like I said, up until now, car has been basically trouble free apart from my headlamps (low beams) burning out which I think was premature. Other than that, no mechanical issues or other electrical related issues to speak of.


  • robr2robr2 BostonPosts: 8,862
    A shot in the dark - bad transmitter in the key or bad receiver in the ignition. If those don't connect, car doesn't run.
  • spiff72spiff72 Posts: 179
    I hope you aren't expecting Honda to fix this free of charge (unless you have an extended 100k mile warranty)...

    Just because you say it is a safety issue doesn't mean they are obligated to fix it at no charge. If this wasn't your intention or your point, please disregard this message! :D
  • normkolnormkol Posts: 135
    I'm not positive about Honda, but in most cars that is only checked when cranking, not continuously as the car runs.
  • rutan74rutan74 Posts: 20

    Actually after thinking about the problem and then talking it over with a few of our generator Engineers, they seemed to think it might be the ignition switch since everything goes through that switch. I also thought of the key not making good contact or something like that. Anyway, I jiggled the key around but I could not get the car to go dark again. I will try it with the wife's key too seeing that is the key that was in the ignition at the time of all the failures.

    Dropped it off at the dealer and you should have seen their eyes when I told them my car went dark while on the road! Anyway, to make a long story short, my positive battery cable was loose and that is all they could find. They also stated that this problem DID exist back in 1999 and it was the ignition switch. That was my initial thought.

    I'm not totally satisfied with that answer since the car is driven over many bumps and you would think that if the cable were that loose, this would happen more than 2 times. I go over 3 sets of railroad tracks each day and if the cable were causing a break in the circuit, I surely would see it then.

    Anyway, I have the car back and they have simply thrown their hands up after running some tests. The problem is now well documented and if it happens on the road and or causes an accident, they will surely be the first to know since I will no doubt sue. Of course, they gave me my car back saying everything was fine, no problem. So now they own their diagnosis and I let them know it.

    I can only hope that this is the reason.

    Thanks anyway for your input.

  • robr2robr2 BostonPosts: 8,862
    To their credit, keep in mind that intermittent issues like this are difficult to repair. They have to be there when it happens to get a feel for what it could be.

    If you brought it in dead then it gives them a starting point.
  • rutan74rutan74 Posts: 20
    I never said that I expected them to fix it free of charge.

    I do expect them to find the problem though! And it is indeed a safety issue IMO. Maybe not in yours or Honda's but I would say that losing total power while driving that causes an accident is a safety issue.

    And seeing that I have some direct knowledge of corporate lawsuits (I'm not a lawyer but I do know our company expert that handles most engineering issues dealing with lawsuits in my company), it don't matter one iota if the warranty has expired or not concerning safety issues. The company is still responsible.

    I'm not trying to sue, nor do I want anything for free, but if this happens again after the dealership has said no problem, and causes me any out of pocket expense, then it is perfectly in my rights to seek reinbursment.

This discussion has been closed.