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Honda Accord Quality Control Issues
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Comments
I bought a 2006 Accord EX sedan about 2 weeks ago and after a few days I've noticed a rattle/clicking sound coming from one of the wheels. Dealer cannot find the source (i.e., brake assemblies, suspension seems okay).
Zeromitsu:
Could you hear your sound at highway speeds or only at low speeds?
Was it obvious to you where the exact source of the sound was coming from? That is, you knew that the sound was coming from somewhere around the right rear wheel area, or did it take you some time to pinpoint the source?
Thanks.
i dunno why it would make such sound.. onyl had it for one day..
it went away after 5 or so minutes.. but annoying...
i've never had this issue with any car.. but then again i've never had a car where the gas tank is underneath the seat.. any thoughts??
Either way, this is all normal.
it was still at F when i got the car.. the guy drove 60 miles to deliver the car to me.. but after me putting on 170 miles.. i'm near E now.. i hope i will get more than 230 miles on a "full" tank when i fill it up..
but i love it so far.. far better than 15 miles per gallon that my van was giving me.. yes!
i was revving it up to 5000k rpm.. but stopped doing so.. how do u break in a car? after reading some comments i'm now scared to gas hard.. it's ok to go 80+ right? lol..
i saw a posting that someone did nto go over 45mph for the first 2000 miles.. freaked me out..
Enjoy the new car!
thegrad
2006 EX I-4 Sedan Auto - 8,800 miles
Hello I just wanted to tell everyone that HONDA really backs up their product.
I just had the trans replaced a power door-lock (slider driver) and replaced the ignition interlock on a van that is OVER 7 years old and has almost 80,000 miles on the odo. No hassle, no BS just yes sir we will repair this under Honda's warranty service. I never bought an extended warranty either. I will drive nothing but Hondas from now on and I will most likely buy them at Norm Reeves in Cerritos SoCal!!!!
Sidenote, - I had a lincoln continental, blew the trans at 72K, the motor at 75K and the suspension at 80Kmls. Ford told me to go fly a kite every time! Guess what? -- I dissuaded at least three peoples from buying a ford product, but have swayed at least six peoples to buy Hondas. I have three Hondas: a '91 Accord, a '99 Odyssey, and an '05 CR-V...
And I really want to add an Element to the list... :-)
Put an Extended Honda Warranty on this vehicle. I have a 2003 4 cylinder Accord,(purchased used). To date, Honda has put in $3,000.00 worth of repair on this vehicle, under the 7 year / 100,000 miles warranty. I would never own a vehicle without an extended warranty. Once I get to 99,500 miles this vehicle is history! I am already doing the research for the replacement vehicle. Some of the vehicles that I am considering are as follows: Honda Accord or Element, Ford 500, Chevrolet Impala or HHR, or Toyota Camry. The "BIG ISSUE" is the selling dealer and their service. My Honda dealer gives excellent service, even though my Accord was purchase used from an estate sale. Quality wise, I do not think that the other vehicles listed above are any better than the Accord. I would still purchase an extended warranty for the maximum years and mileage, and trade the vehicle once the warranty is over. One major repair could reflect the initial cost of the warranty.---- Best regards. ----- Dwayne
There was a guy saying Hondas have engine issues just because his 4 cylinder blew up in less than 500 miles. And his was an isolated occurence. But then Honda really DID come out later with porous engine blocks in a run of V6's that they readily admitted to. From my 15 year relationship with Honda, they usually own up to problems that effect the long-term reliability of the vehicles. They usually repair the problem long after the warranty expires.
The fuel system is part of the emissions system and pumping in extra fuel to round up the currency can cause problems as you discovered. In the old days, you could fill up to the filler neck.
You didn't break anything, just avoid doing it in the future.
The car is brand new - but wasn't sure if this problem was common.
Thanks
Background: 2003 V6 minus nav. Milage is approx 97K. Up until now, car has been basically trouble free. Car was bought new.
Problem: About 2 weeks ago my wife tried to start the car while in the garage and there was no power. I mean no power. Total shutdown. No click, no dash lighting, nothing. She got out and went in the house and returned in a few minutes and tried again and the car started without problem.
3 days ago, wife driving and pulling into a parking lot when the car completely lost all power. All dash lights went out and the car was completely dead. Luckily, she was able to coast to a stop safely. She got out and then back into the car and tried to start the car. The car started.
Of course she told me of these two incidents and I sort of brushed them off as something flaky. I have over 16 years as a systems troubleshooter and know a little about fixing problems. Well at least on main frame computer systems.
Fast forward to tonight. I am in the car with wife. We pull out into traffic and bam, the car completely goes dark. Nothing. Totally dead. Wife puts tranny into park and tries to start the car. Nothing. Not even a click. We move the shifter in and out of park and still nothing. Nothing works in the car. I then start to get out of the car by manually pulling the door lock nob. Once I do that and open the door, the car becomes energized. Dash lights up and we are able to start the car.
These last two times, the power failure has been so severe that the clock needs to be re-set (blinking like when you disconnect the negative battery cable) which also requires the radio code to be re-entered.
Now, this is huge in my estimation! I cannot find a thing on this and know of no recalls concerning this issue.
Talk about a dangerous situation? Luckily both times we have lost total power while driving, we have been able to get stopped. Of course I am now wondering what would happen on the freeway or in the midst of making a turn or simply on the road at 50 mph or more.
So, the car is off to the dealer tomorrow with a few choice words. This is a SAFETY issue to me plain and simple. I'm not sure how Honda will find this problem but this is a serious issue.
I am here asking if anyone has had any experience with this type of problem? Could it possibily be tied to the door locks since that seemed to have restored power? Or could it be the ingnition key getting worn. I know intermittant electrical problems are tough to find, but this is not a minor issue and needs addressed.
So, anyone have any ideas, opinions?
Ohh, AC was on. We live in SC and so the average temp in July and August is 90 and the wife has the AC on all the time. Don't know if that has anything to do with it. Car is garaged at night, and has not suffered any water damage. Two years ago, car was in accident involving front end, but all was repaired.
Like I said, up until now, car has been basically trouble free apart from my headlamps (low beams) burning out which I think was premature. Other than that, no mechanical issues or other electrical related issues to speak of.
thanks,
john
Just because you say it is a safety issue doesn't mean they are obligated to fix it at no charge. If this wasn't your intention or your point, please disregard this message!
Actually after thinking about the problem and then talking it over with a few of our generator Engineers, they seemed to think it might be the ignition switch since everything goes through that switch. I also thought of the key not making good contact or something like that. Anyway, I jiggled the key around but I could not get the car to go dark again. I will try it with the wife's key too seeing that is the key that was in the ignition at the time of all the failures.
Dropped it off at the dealer and you should have seen their eyes when I told them my car went dark while on the road! Anyway, to make a long story short, my positive battery cable was loose and that is all they could find. They also stated that this problem DID exist back in 1999 and it was the ignition switch. That was my initial thought.
I'm not totally satisfied with that answer since the car is driven over many bumps and you would think that if the cable were that loose, this would happen more than 2 times. I go over 3 sets of railroad tracks each day and if the cable were causing a break in the circuit, I surely would see it then.
Anyway, I have the car back and they have simply thrown their hands up after running some tests. The problem is now well documented and if it happens on the road and or causes an accident, they will surely be the first to know since I will no doubt sue. Of course, they gave me my car back saying everything was fine, no problem. So now they own their diagnosis and I let them know it.
I can only hope that this is the reason.
Thanks anyway for your input.
johng
If you brought it in dead then it gives them a starting point.
I do expect them to find the problem though! And it is indeed a safety issue IMO. Maybe not in yours or Honda's but I would say that losing total power while driving that causes an accident is a safety issue.
And seeing that I have some direct knowledge of corporate lawsuits (I'm not a lawyer but I do know our company expert that handles most engineering issues dealing with lawsuits in my company), it don't matter one iota if the warranty has expired or not concerning safety issues. The company is still responsible.
I'm not trying to sue, nor do I want anything for free, but if this happens again after the dealership has said no problem, and causes me any out of pocket expense, then it is perfectly in my rights to seek reinbursment.
johng
If it was your ignition switch going bad, you would still have SOME electrical things working, (headlights, power door locks, brake lights, radio memory etc.)
Mrbill
I cannot see it when i am sitting in the car. It is only visible when I look into the car via the front windshield.
I am going to have the dealer take a look it next week.
Mrbill
I thought I read someone in here had the dealer replace the the dash on the passenger side....
thanks!
Ok I will not obsess over this any more. Other than this one "issue" my EX-L V6 Cpe is a great car and fun to drive!
either the battery has died or is about to, or there is a bad ground, or bad connection to the battery.
the technicians sound like they did a good job.
It took me a while to figure out where the noise is coming from. First two trips to the dealer they can't find or hear anything. Out of frustration I had to look for it myself and broke some clips trying to remove the panels looking for some loose bolts, wiring etc...
Right now I can hear the other strut making the same noise but not as annoying as the one that was replaced.
Have you taken it in yet to get it checked out? I probably will this weekend.
2 transmissions, 3 radios, a fuse box, air vents, speakers, windshield rattles, etc in under 12,000 miles.
if the former - does the squeal change tone with the speed/RPM of the engine?
Does anyone has similar experience and know how to remedy this problem? Could it be the defective seal on the doors, windows, sunroof, or windshield? I heard also that the design of the side mirror could be the culprit?
It is a bit noisy in the rain too, but that MIGHT be another story issue
ok - if your up for it, you might want to try to do some sleuthing / testing with easily removable tape (like 3M blue painter's tape which should come off easily - test that assertion), sealing the rubber around the windshield, the pivot point on the side-mirror, the sun roof, the cowling (black plastic at the bottom of the windshield), the wipers to the windshield, the front mudflaps, maybe even the hood / body spacing...
i know this could easily get carried away. i don't personally know how you could determine the source otherwise. maybe there's an easier way another poster knows.
assuming the tape causes the sound to be silenced, i would remove one area of tape at a time, repeating the experiment of bringing the vehicle to speed till the sound re-exhibits itself.
Try some sinacone spray on the door seals and make sure the window tracks are clean.