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"Neither the K&N, NOR the OEM/factory filter will cause ANY atmospheric air pressure drop as long as the downstream restriction results in filling the "interim" space faster then it can be depleted."
would be true if air was being forced through the filter toward the throttle place by higher-than-atmospheric pressure outside the filter, but is not true since air is being moved through the filter by lower-than-atmospheric pressure on the engine side of the throttle plate. Outside the filter is atmospheric, engine side of the throttle plate is high vacuum, between the filter and the throttle plate is between the two. Thus the "there is always a drop in pressure through an air filter" statement, which is measurable.
The air is being moved because of the pressure differential between the two "volumes".
The OEM/factory filter is not a RESTRICTION until the rate of airflow through it exceeds its "freeflow" capacity. Otherwise a simple window screen, fly sceen, would be a restriction to the flow of a light breeze.
"...they run on the alternator..."
No, the battery, regulator, and alternator form an integral/closed circuit.
Open the battery connection with the engine running and the alternator output voltage will "try" to rise to infinity.
A battery "cell" opens intermittently, momentarily, alternator voltage goes into ORBIT, >20 volts, electronic control systems are compromised.
Battery cell shorts intermittently, momentarily, VERY COMMON battery failure mode.
Totally new batteries can be just as suspect as old batteries, manufacturing defect gone unnoticed.
Interesting thought on the key ring, just try a different key that is not on any key ring, not likely, but I know how frustrating a flaky electrical issue can be, and you're probably willing to try anything.
My dad had a Caddy with similar electrical flakiness, dealer replaced a ton of parts charging him big bucks. His next door neighbor changed the battery cables. When he cut the old ones right down the middle, they were corroding from the inside out.
You can't get that kind of life out of a battery from anywhere!!
But I would NEVER go to a car dealer, same battery, higher price.
Check Consumer Reports for their latest tests, and get one with a long warranty which can be honored at many places, like the chain auto stores mentioned, or Sears.
That said, I replaced mine with an Interstate from a friendly local gas station. Probably paid a little more, but the guy does me favors in other ways since I go there all the time.
Left it with a repair place, they cleaned the drain. That didn't fix the problem. Left it with my normal mechanic when I got home, they couldn't recreate the problem so couldn't figure out what was wrong.
Any ideas? Low freon? Leak somewhere???
Thanks!
Abigail
If otherwise see an A/C technician.
Part Description Part Cost
Air filter $ 32.60
Coolant $ 12.00
Engine oil $ 13.25
Oil filter $ 8.70
Total Estimated Parts Cost $ 66.55
Labor Action Item Labor Cost
Replace Air filter $ 2.92
Inspect Ball joints $ 5.85
Inspect Brake lines, hoses & connections $ 1.17
Inspect Brake pads & linings $ 11.70
Flush/replace Coolant $ 40.95
Inspect Differential, rear $ 2.92
Inspect Drive belt(s) $ 1.76
Inspect Drive shaft $ 2.92
Change Engine oil $ 12.28
Inspect Evaporative control canister $ 2.92
Inspect Exhaust system $ 2.92
Inspect Front differential fluid $ 5.85
Inspect Fuel filler cap $ 1.17
Inspect Fuel system $ 5.85
Replace Oil filter $ 5.85
Inspect Steering gearbox $ 5.85
Inspect Steering linkage $ 5.85
Inspect Transfer case fluid $ 5.85
Inspect Valve clearance $ 2.92
Rotate Wheels & tires $ 17.55
Total Estimated Labor Cost $ 145.08
Total Estimated Costs
Total Estimated Parts Cost For Your Area $ 66.55
Total Estimated Labor Cost For Your Area $ 145.08
Total Estimated Cost (excluding tax)* $ 211.63
I'd rather not be hit with surprises later.
I can see the control devise thats clicking and I can put my finger near it and feel the motion at the same time it clicks. I turned off the air and it still does it.
any Ideas would be appreciated.
All of this to say that my experience with Goodyear for maintenance has ranged from outright lies to lies of omission. As long as I've kept my maintenance records on the tire rotation, I've been able to make them live up to their warranty although they really tried not to. Beware of using them for general maintenance.
So I still hear it--since everything is working I've decided to wait..I did notice when my car is sitting out in the sun and it's very Hot inside i turned the air down to 70 and there's no clicking until I set the temp back to 75.
Thats why i think it has to do with climate control--like trying to keep temp to setting.
Anyone else had this intermittant problem??
Thanks...........
Be careful – see
http://www.boston.com/business/articles/2010/04/27/federal_agency_to_examine_toy- ota_in_fatal_crash/
Many thanks,
Karolina
"They did a test when they hosed the car down and saw that some water came through"
And they said not to worry about it? If so, of course that's nonsense. Most sunroofs have drains which go down the A-pillars (next to the windshield) to drain water that gets past the seal (and probably into this "tray" thing). The drains get clogged with debris, and need to be flushed/blown/rodded out.
Any dealership that does not know that doesn't deserve your business. Take it somewhere else - it's not a Highlander-specific or Toyota-specific, so find a highly rated repair shop. Or get your neighborhood gearhead to do it for you. It's far from rocket science.
I have a few questions related to the maintenance of my 2006 Highlander. I have a 2006, 4 cyl, with the 2AZ-FE engine. I have ~80K miles at present and I don't see anything in the maintenance schedule about timing chain and transmission fluid replacement. I see that the 6 cyl requires a timing belt replacement at 90K, but the maintenance guide is silent on the chain for the 4 cyl. When will the chain need to be replaced? With regard to the ATF, it only mentions replacement at 60K and 120K miles for towing. When should the ATF be replaced under normal operating conditions (ie no towing)?
Thanks!
So you might randomly encounter a 1-2 second "re-acceleration" downshift delay/hesitation but not likely need to do any ATF maintainance for teh life of the vehicle.
That being said it is not a bad idea to check and monitor the ATF at each and every engine oil change period.
My '01 F/awd RX300 had DARK and BURNED ATF at only 40,000 miles. I was told by the factory rep that I needed to rely on the dealer. I went to the dealer and was given this new 15,000 mile recommendation which the factory then confirmed was the new recommendation.
This was later changed to a factory directive to monitor the ATF at each oil/filter change and only drain and fill as necessary. Obviously this latter directive was ignored by most dealers.
Am I insane trying to do this myself???
Thanks ~ Woody
I actually thought I had a wheel bearing going out and took it to a mechanic who spun the wheels up on a lift and said he thought the bearings were okay. Has anybody else noticed this or do I have a particularly noisy Highlander?