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Now they're paying 30k with the NAV too? That would imply 28500-29000 for the EXL-RES? Has anyone gotten that?
I'm in the market for Odyssey EXL w/o RES, planning to go to a dealership tomorrow.
"Hi Odysseyva. That's sounds like an incredibly low price because people have been paying $30300-500 for the EX-L w/ RES NAV before TTL. Do you know what's the price excluding TTL?"
I also thought it sounded low....hence my post.....
In any case, it appears that Odysseyva got a great deal.
$31455+710= $32165 for the EXL w/ res and nav
invoice for the Nav is around $1998
so $32165-$1998=$30,167 equivalent for an ELX w/ RES before incentive.
I presume Odysseyva's price did not include the $1250 incentive since he has 2.84% APR financing. Everyone paid around $30,000-$30,500 for the EXL w/ RES with incentive applied.
"Good afternoon. Am looking to buy the Odyssey EX-L w/ RES and Navi and would like to know your lowest OTD (out the door) price, along w/ the color selection you have available at this time.
Please itemize charges, i.e. base price (including destination if applicable), tax, tags and title, for the absolute total OTD figure. I am researching other dealer prices in the area as well and will be purchasing very shortly.
Your promptness and bottom line are much appreciated.
Kind regards,"
Responses were quick and at least a couple were doing everything they could to win our business, including offering to deliver the van to us himself (2 hours away). Had follow up calls w/ one or two of them, and ended up w/ our local dealer offering base price of $32,2k to beat other offers. OTD was $35k even and included a $298 fee, TN taxes, tag and title. Highly recommend Phil Bachman Honda - Kingsport, TN. They are kid friendly too if you need to have your little one with you.
Good luck!
We got a 2010 EX-L Base, grey/grey, with about 30 miles on it. They made a dealer trade to get it, so we ended up getting front tint thrown in for free. Final price was $29,900 + $1868.75 tax + $297.25 fees for a total of $32,066 OTD. We went for the dealer cash and financed directly through Bank of America (they have some great rates now, we got 3.75% for 60 months). Finally, we didn't have a trade in.
During negotiation, I emailed/called about 10 different dealers in central Texas and really hit a wall at the $30k +TTL mark. Even after waiting a few days and calling back, so it seems like people on the east and west coasts are in a better position for getting down to $29k or below.
In the end, one of our local dealers matched the best offer and we had a great experience at pickup. No last minute tricks or anything, just tried to push Honda Care (they offered $1500 for the 8 year version), but we politely declined. They took plenty of time going over the paperwork, showing us the vehicle, and going over all the safety features/maintenance/etc. It was not what I had expected from someone in the internet sales department.
$28,485.00 (price of vehicle)
$ 866.52 (VA title tax)
$ 34.18 (Dealer business license tax)
$ 10.00 (on-line system filing fee)
$ 399.00 (processing fee)
$ 48.75 (1 year tag, title and reg. fee)
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$29,843.45 On the road
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No charge for the dealer installed options (mud guards, door guards, wheel locks) + full gas tank + free life time VA state inspection. Most of the negotiation was by email/phone. Hope this information is useful for someone.
What is your base price before TTL?
Can you please provide detailed quote so I can compare with my quotes?
Quote 1:
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Price: $31,000
3% NC Tax: $930
Doc Fee: $499
NC Tag & Title Fee: $69
Total Price: $32,498
Quote 2:
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Price: $31,000
3% NC Tax: $930
NC Tag & Title Fee: $69
Total Price: $31, 999
I got 26000 + TTL but it was a cash offer.
Last week I asked same for 1.9% and dealer refused.
Your ptice of OTD price 28000 much better with 1.9% financing.
Can you share dealer info.
Thx.
Thanks!
Recall on my EXL-RES that several of the "best" quotes came at appx 31,000, yet when I went back to challenge those quotes by telling them I got a better offer, then the quotes dropped by 700-900 bucks from the "best"....I guess those were just "better than best" prices in that dealer's mind
My philosophy is this: These new car salesman negotiates everyday on selling cars. I do it once every 10 years. HE IS A PROFESSIONAL!! IF I set the price (as followed by hogan773's advice), then I've just taken the negotiation factor out of the equation. Now, there is no negotiation with the dealer. I've already decided the price and hold to it.
I'm horrible at negotiating. I don't want to go up against a professional and loose. Therefore, I'd rather educate yourself regarding price to pay BEFORE even talking to the dealer about buying a van. This forum is a GREAT place to help you determine what your price is.
Only reason I am considering a HondaCare warranty is that my EXL-RES has 3 power doors plus a DVD system. For $2000 warranty I'd probably chance it. For $500-600 I might make the investment for a long-tailed, low mileage warranty (we don't drive many miles per year) because if one of those things goes, it is probably a $1000+ fix. That said, I am sure the risk of failure is much less than 100% over 5-6 years..........decisions decisions
(I was working the I-95 corridor in my region)
yes, I agree that the first person to put out a final price is generally in a weaker position. My system is designed to get you that information, so you can then feel comfortable that whatever price you're agreeing to is NEAR the bottom of the range........I once saw a post that I think is golden....after yoy buy your car, you're DONE and you can't beat yourself up if you find out someone got it for $100 less.
The more you can get the dealers to give YOU prices that you can react to, the better. That is why you are calling saying "I am going to buy and I want to know your best price" (although please don't automatically believe that IS the best price).....you start to get numbers to work with. Take the lowest, maybe challenge the others to go lower, keep searching, keep reading the board to find out what others are getting.
NOTE that nowhere in the above process are you committing to a price! There is BIG difference between telling a dealer "hey another guy is telling me $31,500 - and you were at $32,000, so I need to understand what your number really is....if its really 32k then I guess I'll catch you next time, but if you're serious with a more competitive number then I'd like to keep talking to you" and "ok I tell you what, if you can beat 31,500 I will buy the car today from you as long as its 31,499 or lower". See? These dealers have no idea how many people you're talking to, and where in the process you are with each. Even if you got the guy in the example above to go from 32,000 to 31,250, there is nothing that says you are then obligated to buy! You can always tell him tomorrow that you received an answer from a new dealer who is willing to do 31,000.
This can keep going on, but IF YOU USE A WIDE ENOUGH SAMPLE I think you'll find pretty quickly where the general floor is.....at the point when most of the dealers can't or won't match your current best offer even when you tell them the number, then you're probably close.
I negotiated and negotiated and the ONLY time I ever made a "hard offer" was at the very final minutes, and it was actually pertaining to my trade in, after I had established the price of the new car to be approx 30,100. I said "if you get to XXX on the trade in I will buy the car today, otherwise I'll keep looking" they came up $2000 on the trade, and I was a man of my word and honored my statement (which I think is important in this process....if you make a promise you should be negotiating in good faith and abide by it)
I found out later that someone else in a different state got the same car for 30,000 (100 less) but I am still quite happy with my price, as I think its on the lower end of the prices that are possible for this model, and certainly below my initial expectations.
Got another offer from another dealer for 31000. But I have to take care of DMV stuff including tax. In such case the total comes to 32000. It is 300 dollars less than the above. APR offered 3.99%. But dealer is in another state (90 minutes drive). It does not come with wheel locks and mud guards. Also the dealer scared me that he will deliver the car without any dealer add ons. Not sure what I will miss after buying the car.
Finally bought in the residence state for 32000 with 4.5% APR
Is it a good deal?
I never understand the post of "hey so I just bought this car for $32,000 is it a good deal???"
When you hear that others paid $750-1000 less a few weeks ago (which you would have seen by reading the forum) what do you do with that info? You've already bought the car!
It is helpful to post your price so others can see, so thanks for that.
I also don't understand the comment about being scared that the dealer won't deliver with add-ons. You mean you were afraid he might take off those wheel locks, thereby depriving you of the security benefits of locking one's lugnuts? If he did, you could always pick up another set at Autozone for 10 bucks or whatever. :confuse:
I was wondering if anyone here has recently purchased one from Central Florida and how much you paid.
Any help would be great!
Thanks,
Absybabsy
If this is the base price they are offering, and you can wait a few weeks, then just hold on...they'll be back in touch with you when they need you to meet their sales #'s b/f month end. I think there is validity to the last week of the month method, as you skip a lot of the back and fourth. The sales folks do not have the luxury of time and you aren't exposed to quite so many tall tales about their "best price." :-)