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To be honest, I did contact another dealer in Ohio (used to live there), and they came back at $29,399 for a 2010 Honda Odyssey EX-L (msrp $34,115).
On the LEASE FORUM here on the Honda Odyssey.............someone just posted that they were quoted $28,235 for an EX-L. That is AMAZING.
Would you mind sharing dealer info. I am also in PA.
Thanks
Forgot to mention: they tried to sell me all kind of BS like dent, scratch, full maintenance protection but I said no. Even the cheapest was over $500.
For people that want to install a hitch I ordered a Reese hitch plus complete harness for $200 shipped
http://www.reese-hitches-online.com/
to install the hitch you only have 6 bolts to tighten up, a 10 minutes job. The harness shouldn't take more than 30 minutes. It's a Quick connect type
Piece of advice next time - you can get those accessories from online Honda internet stores for much much much cheaper. Or there are places called O'Reilly or AutoZone which would also have wheel locks -- lug nuts are lug nuts after all.
At least in Illinois they protect the consumer be mandating that doc fee can only be $152.
I had several dealers tell me the car "came with" those damn lug nuts and splash guards, yet when I pushed a little bit all of the sudden I magically got a quote without them that was cheaper! Funny stuff......
Most dealers are coming back in the $29,000 - $30,000 range (MSRP $34,115)
**So, it seems to me the dealers are willing to DEAL on a 2010 model. It could be that Honda is providing some CASH support to dealers right now.......to move the 2010 models and make room for the NEW 2011 model due to hit showrooms in about 6 months.
I would LEASE. Buying, you are going to lose quite a bit due to the 2011 model coming so quickly. (unless you plan to keep the van for 8+ years)
I just leased a brand new EX last night for $322 a month 0 down 0 out of pocket. I don't have the final numbers on me right now but I will post shortly. This is for 3 yrs at 36,000 miles. The sales guy told me that they lost $800+ on this deal. I do believe him as I contacted several dealers in the area and the next closest price was $349.00. One dealer actually said if I can get the car at $322 0 out of pocket to let him know where he was going to go buy some lol.
All in all it was a pretty smooth transaction and I got it all done in less than 4 days. I have a feeling the deals on these are going to get even better in the coming months.
If you can find a steal on a used Odyssey, go for it. But I'd first get an idea of the REAL price you can get a new one, cause it ain't MSRP and it ain't even Invoice...it's better. That way you get a new car, in the color you want, with no miles.
27726.35 + 1968.77 (7% tax) + 28 (title) + 3 (lemon) + 399 (dealer fee)
= 30125.12 OTD
FYI, above price includes me having to pay $99 + tax for extra headset (they would not throw in), as well as them throwing in mudguards for free that were already installed.
One other little thing, they allowed me to pay $5000 on my AMEX which allows me to get about $75 cash back due to ~1.5% rebate I have for Costco card.
I used ZAG.com for price. Also tried Costco.com.... but never got to pricing point for comparison. I liked Zag because the price comes up even without committing any of your personal info. to site, so you can then decide whether you want to "submit" and provide all of your personal information and the ensuing assault by the dealerships.
Essentially, Honda looks to be working from around invoice and then providing the $1250 incentive cash (if you can pay cash), and they are also giving you the holdback as well ($610.30 for this car presently... and verified by Consumer Reports pricing info. and dealership also showed me this same figure FWIW)
It's probably not the lowest price, but overall was a very easy way to get a decent price on a vehicle that Honda is clearly trying to move off of the lots at this time.... and there appear to be alot of vehicles in Southeast United States where I live based upon my search of inventory yesterday. I have a feeling that you could do even better on the price if you are a better negotiator than the average person.... and I'm no good at it.
Thanks for everyone that posts on this site. Much appreciated, and why I am more than willing to provide info. about my purchase as well.
2010 EX-L RES New
30,000 less 5,000 for my 4K trade = 25,000 plus tax and tag and dealer fee. I bought is at Courtesy in Sanford Florida. I did not use the Honda financing as I had a great rate through my credit union.
I did not get any extras on the vehicle. I love it!
Thanks.
MSRP: $30,914
Gross Capitalized cost: $27,680.14
Residual Value: 17,756.7
Monthly Pmt: $322
Months: 36
Miles: 36,000
Down pmt: 0
Out of pocket: 0
Also, not sure what this is but there is another value listed with the following language.
"The agreed up value of the vehicle $26,341.85 and any items I pay for over the lease Term (such as taxes, fees, service contracts, insurance and any outstanding prior credit or lease balance)."
It appears next to the itemized terms portion of the lease.
Looking for new odyssey, with no fancy things. Will decide LX or EX or EX-L based on the OTD prices. wanted to get some quotes from dealers and have a question about Invoice price.
MSRP seems to be way high and not reasonable at all.
1.how do i know what is the invoice price of each model so that i can ask the dealer to match the invoice price of each model.
2. Also looking for a buying experience for LX or EX models in CA Bayarea recently. prices in CA Bayarea seems to be high
thanks in advance for the responses
Edmunds (the site you're on) has invoice prices for all models and options
Please then read this thread back at least a month or two to get some tips on negotiating/finding price quotes.
If you don't want to go thru the trouble, no problem - just be happy with your deal.
1) Go under the New Car section here on Edmunds, look up the MSRP for the model, then continue to the last section to show the INVOICE amount.
**Basically, from what deals I have been given and also seen here in the posts, you should be getting quotes AT INVOICE PRICE or slightly below invoice.
2) Contact the dealers via the INTERNET DEPT!!!!!!! Best prices are given out thru the internet. Shop around!!
3) Once you have the BEST QUOTE, visit your local dealer and present it to them. Tell them you are ready to buy. If they won't meet or beat that deal.......leave.
If you look in the Odyclub.com forum there is a good post by "donkeypunch" in the January 10-15 area he has a 16 step process to purchase your new vehicle. It is amazing how simple and effective without any intimidation from the dealer.
Here's the breakdown of the total OTD price:
Vehicle MSRP: 35,715
Vehicle Cost: 29,650
Doc Fee: 599
Tax: 1814.84 Ga. tax @6%
Tags,title: 21
Total OTD: $32,084.94
By the way first vehicle quote was $31,040 so you can see how much leeway the have in pricing. And they even thru in the Vin etching, protective paint sealant and yes, Nitrogen filled tires! And they didn't push hard for the extended warranty.
2010 Odyssey EX
Polished Metal Metallic
Options:
Fog lights
Splash Guards
Door Edge Guards
Total out the door price:
$28,780
Thanks hogan773, I owe you a cut!!! :shades:
I am looking at an ex as well in dallas texas
I read through a good chunk of the recent messages and was amazed by the good prices you guys landed. However when I set out to get a price quote for 2010 ody exl in MN, I got feedback ~30k from about 10 dealers.
thanks,
Thanks for the information. At this time with vacation season coming and not a very big supply of vans we cannot justify selling an Odyssey under invoice, nor can the dealers listed in your email. The money was made somewhere and the "volume" dealers are the best at doing that. Besides looking at your email you were already quoted a price of $31,416 from a Nashville dealer so I don't see how $31,650 would even get your business. We understand your need to get the best price and if you find that these dealers aren't being upfront with you on everything let us know and we will work to get you a better deal.
24 miles from nashville.
MSRP as configured: $30,615
Invoice as configured: $28,107
YOUR EXCLUSIVE PRICE: $1,750 below invoice including incentives!
Your price: $26,357 with the options you chose
And this is what that dealer emailed me showing that they want $700 on top of the zag price:
********************************************************************************- - ************
Below is the Total amount due at signing, You can put 3000 on the AMEX card.
Honda Odyssey EX + $0.00
Your price with ***** $26,357.00
Trade-In Allowance - $0.00
Net Difference $26,357.00
State Tire and Lead Acid Battery Fee + $8.50
FL MVWTF + $2.00
CVR + $59.00
Dealer Fee + $699.99
Subtotal $27,126.49
Sales Tax(7%) + $1,677.59
License and Title estimated ($400 New/$150 Transfer) $150.00
State Fees + $2.00
Subtotal $28,956.08
Estimated Amount Owed On Trade + $0.00
**************************************************
Still not bad imho
First off, read the threads. I went back to mid-December of 2009 and read every thread that was posted in this forum. Amongst these threads I found a post that was authored by hogan773 (search for post #24549 to see his system). He lays out a simple method through which in my opinion, worked like a charm. I went a step further, and made absolutely no telephone calls.
I used the Honda website to locate email addresses for individual dealerships. They are tough to find, but if you click on the "Build Your Odyssey" button on the right side of the main odyssey page (it's a green button), you will be guided through a multi-step process by which you will build your desired vehicle. In the 5th step is a summary of the vehicle you have "built", and on the right side of the page is a list of dealers within a certain distance of your location. If you click on the orange button titled "Request a Quote", a window will open containing a form to contact that particular dealership. I DID NOT USE THIS FORM TO CONTACT THE DEALERSHIP! In the right side of this window is a link for the internet manager for that dealership. This is where I got the email addresses for the 15 or so dealers that I sent requests for a quote to. Just right click the link and copy the address. I made a list in a word file of all the dealerships and the email contact. If you want the name of the internet manager, then you need to play around a bit more. There is a "Find a Dealer" link in the top menu bar of the main page. Input your zip code and you'll get a listing of the dealerships in your area including the name of the internet manager. Email address + name = specific contact.
In the email that I sent each dealer (sent on a Wednesday), I requested a quote on a specific vehicle, with the options that I listed. I also stated that I would not be interested in any other model, color or options other than what I listed. I got about 7 replies, and waited till the weekend was over. On Monday, I emailed my local dealer to give him an option to be the first responder. I listed what he quoted, as well as what other folks had quoted. I also requested, for the first time, a quote that was itemized from the base price through to the out the door price. He replied on Monday evening and listed an out the door price that was extremely competitive. In fact, it's so close to my target that I replied back to him and agreed to meet with him this Thursday. I fully realize that I still have to swim with the F&I folks out back, but I'm very pleased with these folks so far.
Search out your local and regional dealerships. Create a pen & paper list of all the final "out the door" prices that folks list here for the trim level that you desire. Then let your typing fingers lead the way. I have full confidence in hogan's method! Give it a spin and see what comes your way.
MSRP $30,615.00
Discount $4,357.78
Selling Price $26,257.22
FLA. Tire disposal fee: $5.00
FLA. Lead-acid battery disposal fee: $1.50
Pre-delivery service fee: $599.00
Amount taxable on vehicle $26,862.72
Sales tax = 6% with $25 fee $1,611.76
County tax reflected here $50.00
Trade in Payoff amount due:
ESTIMATED Tag Fee $480.00
Cash balance due on vehicle: $29,004.48
Deposit: $0.00
Cash on delivery: $29,004.48
Invoice: 27,098 (w/o delivery)
Price Quoted: 26,257 + 1250 (dealer cash) = 27,507
That is basically 400 over Invoice, remember they have to pay 300 to zag for the lead if they sell the car. So that 400 covers the sales lead charge.
So then they charge 599 as profit and then any "holdback" is gravy.
Seems fair when they have to pay salaries and utilities for a brick and mortar store
If you want an ody buy now -- they won't get any cheaper.
With all due respect to fairness, justice, equity, karma, etc......I didn't use a gun to rob the dealer of an Odyssey, and regardless of how much money they were "losing" they agreed to sell me the car at that price. Fact is, they will very likely make $2000 or so flipping my trade-in, and I'm OK with that because I got a fair trade in price, I got an extra tax benefit from trading in, and I didn't want to mess with selling it myself to MAYBE make another 500-750 (but maybe not!). So everyone is a winner, Mikey!
I would fall on the floor laughing when the dealer tells me they NEED to charge $600 as a supplemental delivery fee because that is their "actual profit".
But like I said, economic reality is the hard negotiators NEED people who will pay much, much more than they need to to pay the salaries and utilities of a brick and mortar store, as you say. So hats off to you and thanks for your service!
Are you saying that dealers should not be able to make profit on a cash deal with no trade? Are you serious?
What is your opinion to be the correct markup on a vehicle?
Forget factoring trade-ins, just plain straight up vehicle purchasing for cash.
Honestly, I would love you to hear what you think.
This is how i treat dealerships
From the movie tommy boy
Quote is from Ray Zalinsky(DAN AKKROYD)
Look, believe it or not,
i'm providing a service.
I'm thinning the corporate herd.
You've seen "Daktari"?
The weaker animals always go.
So the kids cry when you tie an old
tiger to a tree and shoot him.
But that's life!
America's in a state of renewal.
We've gotta have the strength to
tie a few factories to a tree
and bash 'em with a shovel.
Meanwhile, if i can grab
your share of the market,
put a little coin in the
pocket, by being the a-hole?
Well, what the hell,
you know what i mean?
PEOPLE THE DEALERSHIPS WILL NOT HESITATE TO PUT IT TO YOU,
I know i use to sell cars during my college years.
Sarcastic because I chuckle at the attitude that you, the customer, "owe" the dealer something and need to spend your time deciding how much of a "fair profit" you will bestow upon the poor starving dealer. I am a believer in free will and free markets, and I very much believe that any price a dealer actually sells a car for is one that the dealer has decided to accept in a rational thought process. I don't believe this bunk that dealers "only make a profit" if they sell at something above invoice. We know that can't be true, because why did a bunch of us just BUY Odysseys for literally $2500 BELOW invoice!?!?!? Do you think the dealers just took pity on us, and said "awww shucks I am such a rich dealer that I am gonna lose $2500 today because Hogan and PA Dave and others seem to be nice guys"??? (and just to be clear, I had set my new car price BEFORE the dealer knew a trade-in was in play)
So yes, I found it interesting that you are defending a $600 "extra fee" that sticks out like a sore thumb. Look - everyone is entitled to their own opinion. Some people don't like negotiating, and some people have much more money than time, etc, so they don't really want to spend the time to find a lower price. I'm not casting judgment. You've decided to base all your quotes on a "Zag" service which seems to embed an extra service fee. That's your prerogative. I am all about the bottom line. If an internet service wants to tell me that it is discounting my car at $15,000 off sticker price, but then quietly adding back a $14,500 "loss mitigation profit margin enhancement fee" then sure, great....but in the end I will compare the best total price and not tell myself that I found a great website where you can buy cars for $15,000 cheaper than the dealer would charge.
I think my main point, to your point about whether I am saying that "dealers should not be able to make a profit" is that you are being naive if you think that dealers are doing anything other than making rational decisions. A dealer is a big boy or girl. I asked dealers how much they would be willing to sell an Odyssey for. They responded. I did not lie, cheat or steal. If someone sells me a car for $30k I have to believe they are not stupid, and they are making money somewhere. If they are actually LOSING money, then I guess it was my lucky day.
So my opinion on the "correct markup" on a vehicle? I could care less. I will buy the vehicle for the lowest price that is quoted to me. I let the dealers figure out what the "correct markup" is. I buy a car once every 5 years. Dealers sell 10 cars a day. Why am I the one who needs to decide how much profit I am going to grant the dealer? Sorry, I'm just a believer that things are not always what they seem, so why you should just assume that the MSRP or Invoice numbers are the end-all, be-all determinant of dealer profit......I think you're being naive. And I think you're overpaying.
That's honestly what I think. Nothing personal by the way. Good luck
I take no issue with finding the lowest price. If the lowest price for your EX, in your market, is XYZ then its XYZ and you should buy it. I was only taking exception to the notion that a dealer $600 add-on fee is being justified because otherwise they're "not getting a fair profit." Have you gone to one of the dealers, given them a lower price, and asked if they are interested in matching the number to see if there is any room left? Remember the first quotes are helpful, but the true discovery comes when you challenge those first quotes to find out if people fall away, or whether they actually find a reason to go lower. In my case some said "if you can get that price, go for it buddy" while others said "let me talk to my sales manager" and 15 minutes later called back to say "hey he must be crazy but he said he could come down to ABC"
YMMV is clearly the case though, so just do the best in working the dealers you have to deal with......I am somewhat blessed in that Chicago is apparently the largest concentration of Honda dealers. If you live in a smaller town with 2 or 3 dealers, your competitive dynamic changes, esp if they aren't "volume dealers". I get the sense that volume dealers do things to maintain said volume....so if they are "losing" $300 on my car they are likely making it up in some monthly, or annual, bonuses from Honda to the dealership based on aggregate unit volumes. That's the only way I can explain them losing money on the car, which they claimed to have done (again, not counting my trade)
Case A:
Base price = $23,000
Out the Door = $31,500
Case B:
Base price = $26,500
Out the door = $29,500
Not sure I follow the logic that you have been posting, but from what I've read with regards to your posts, I'm left with the impression that you'd think that Case A is the better deal because the base price was lower. You stated that the price I listed, which is the out the door price BTW, is for some reason not valid because I don't list the separate costs that lead up to the out the door price. As far as I am concerned, all I am going to pay any attention to is the out the door price (the total cost that I have to shell out in order to leave the lot with the vehicle). I, and I think I'm speaking for hogan as well (?), do not buy into this story about being fair to the poor disadvantaged dealerships. I know from research that I conducted on this very website, that the dealers do not make much of their overall yearly profit on new car sales. They make far more on used cars than they do on new ones. Where the dealership makes a killing, is in the repair shop. It is for this reason why my uncle calls them "stealerships".
Here are my reasons for wanting the best deal on a vehicle:
First off, money does not grow on trees. I have a soon to be 14 year old at home, and while he's still under my roof, my wife and I are going to continue to travel this great country of ours so that we can peek into every corner that we can find. I want the lowest price I can find, because travel is not cheap, and I have a budget to stick to.
Secondly, I know that I am going to be stuck between a rock and a hard place when it comes to getting my vehicle serviced. My new Honda van will need to be serviced at a Honda dealership while it's under warranty. I will then, have the oil changed as if it were its own religion. Same goes for the other scheduled work that it requires. I will not have a dealership "rob" me out of "both pockets" of my pants. I fully realize that they have me when it comes to taking it in for service. I'll moan and groan, but that's the way it is. Don't get me wrong, I fully expect great service from my Honda dealership, as they are a quality organization. I will not however, let them mark up the vehicle out the wazzoo AND at the same time strip my wallet every time I take my vehicle in for service.
With that said, my local Honda dealer is, by community reputation and personal experience, a pretty good group of people to deal with. I hold them in the highest regard as it comes to auto dealerships. But... at the end of the day, they remain by any definition, an automobile dealership. They are in business to make a profit, and they will do what they can do to maximize their profit with each and every sale. With the shoe on the other foot I'd more than likely do the same. I as an individual however, I am saddled with a limited bankroll, which limits my purchase power. I will then, do whatever I can, to maximize the value of my purchase.
I am not slamming you outright, but from the other posts that you have made here, I have to question your loyalty to the poor and disadvantaged dealerships that you speak of. I'd almost get the feeling that you work for one, but that would only be a wild guess on my part, with nothing to substantiate it with. I just don't understand why you'd be critical of folks who want the best price on a new vehicle.
For example:
Case A:
Base: 24,500
SC Taxes & Fees: 700
OTD: 25,200
Case B:
Base: 25,000
WA Taxes & Fees: 200
OTD: 25,200
Case C:
Base: 23,700
NC Taxes & Fees: 1500
OTD: 25,200
So who is getting the best deal above? It depends!!!
When we have people in 50 states dropping quotes that include state taxes and fees, etc, it is hard to compare "actual" pricing.
If your state charges more or less for taxes and battery/tire disposal or titling fees, etc. we have to all find some point to compare what is a fair price for a car.
In Florida, if you trade in a vehicle, the titling/tags is $150, if you are not transfering a tag and need a new one it is $400. So if two people post OTD pricing that is within a couple hundred dollars, the variance could be this simple charge that people are not disclosing in their posts.
This is my concern for comparing OTD pricing as even people in the same state are not comparing apples to apples.