When I used the zag engine to purchase my EXL/RES last month, the dealer confirmed that it DID include the destination charge.
So, I had a quote for $30,190 + 3% sales tax + $499 doc fee + $74 tags --> less than $31,700 OTD
I used that quote to get a quote for $30,608 + 3% sales tax + $399 doc fee (note lower than other dealer) + $74 tags --> exactly $32,000 OTD from a more convenient dealer. Obviously, if I would have counted dest charge separately, I could claim that my base price was under $30k - not that such a claim would change what I actually had to fork over!
The car we bought also has wheel locks and mud guards, which the lower quote did not include. We were indifferent to those features, so it didn't change anything in our decision.
I didn't even know abut "autobrag" when we started this process. So you guys are in agreement then that $33,000 is the lowest I will most likely get?
I have done a search on this forum but haven't been able to find any resent posts about the EX-L with RES and NAVI. Most of the posts are almost a year old (with the exception of your ehgieboy), and I know pricing was different a year ago.
We haven't sat down with the paperwork yet so I have no idea what kind of "fees" are being built into that number. I DO know that they will not be charging for the mud flaps, door guards, and wheel locks.
Yes that is what I am seeing also. What is the price and where did you buy your new EX-L from. I live in NJ and am looking for dealers in the area. I got an Internet price of 28,995 from a dealer, another one gave me an Internet price of 28,510 (without Financing).
I've closed the deal in NJ for EXL w/o Res and Nav. OTD is 31,400 w/o honda special financing. Left a deposit with the dealer and they are locating the vehicle (don't have the color we are looking for). Hopefully, I'll get the van within 2 days.
Sounds like you're getting there..I got an internet/email price of $27,900 for a new 2010 EX-L from Bernardi Honda in Natick MA (without financing). This did not include destination or any other fees and they provided no accessories for free except for wheel locks. I went on a Friday AM and told them straight out that I wanted to buy that day *if* I was happy (ie I was not desperate to buy) and that seemed to work well. I'd certainly recommend going during the work week and be there first thing in the AM.
I have finally pulled the plug on EXL / RES. Vehicle has around 90 miles on odometer. I have bought it from Marty Honda, Newark DE with PA TTL. Here is the break down. I took all season mats instead of mud flaps and wheel locks as goodies. I got around 2100 less than invoice. Sales person told me that they sold $400 under their cost which means 30,000 is their real cost for EXL / RES. This gives dealer profit 1700 even if he sells at invoice not counting additonal incentives dealer gets from manufacturer.
29,618 Actual cost 710 freight 1819 6 % tax 200 Title and Doc fees 32,347 OTD
You might still be able to get lower than $33,000 if you wait till it gets closer when the 2011 comes out. But again it depends on your need and also the inventories are getting low you might not have the color you wanted.
You also mentioned that you have a trade in vehicle. That may be offsetting your price on the van. Did you try negotiating first without mentioning your trade in?
You can pretty much estimate your fees depending how much your taxes there. Mine was Doc. fees of $55 + 3,149 (9.75% Ca sales tax), title/transfer/tire fees $466.75. OTD price $ 35,921 49. Hope this will hep you.
We went and test drove the van we are interested in. He showed us what he paid for the vehicle which was $34,500 I guess. But I still feel that there is some wiggle room. The problem as you said is inventory. Our local area dealers are running pretty low on the EX-L with RES and NAVI. Color choices really aren't that great. I want the Slate Green Metallic with Olive leather interior. There is only ONE and we test drove it last night. There isn't another dealer within a 2 hours drive that has one. Not sure we really want to wait until the 2011's come out because if we are going to spend that kind of money, I do want to get the color I want. I'm sure it is a girl thing. :confuse:
The $33,000 was the best we could negotiate before he knew we had a possible trade in. They seem pretty darn firm, but then we haven't committed to anything yet either. Ideally, I'd like to get down around 32,500. That's basically $1,000 under invoice (based on edmunds.com). I'd be pretty darn happy with that. But not sure if we would still get the maximum for our trade that way. We will most likely be trading in our 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan EX which runs wonderfully and has had no problems. Only 47,000 miles on it and it is a 2003.
I don't know, this whole thing is exhausting! :confuse:
Along with Kelly Blue Book, get the Black Book and NADA prices on your trade-in. Also, get a local copy of Auto Trader and/or check out cars.com and see the going price for vehicles that are about. Not only are they going to try to keep the $1000 on the new car, they may very well take another $1000 or more out of your pocket on the trade-in. Know what its worth and demand to get what you want for it. They'll say its not good because of xyz...screw em, if they can't give you a fair trade in, threaten to go elsewhere (or Toyota to check out the 2011). You're in control...you can walk away at any point and keep driving your old vehicle. When I was given $3200 for my trade, I said no thanks, pointed out what I knew and sent the sales guy back. I said it was worth 1000 more and that I could certainly go spend an hour somewhere else to negotiate it...which is a pretty good return. I also put my coat on, gathered up my stuff, and put the chairs back under the table, lol! Sure enough, 5min later I was able to get $800 more. Whatever they pay you, they'll take your trade, freshen it up, and sell it at a profit.
Nail the trade and then talk financing...keep them hoping that you might finance. Even if you don't do Honda financing, the dealer may still originate loans for local lenders.
31,400 was the OTD. What was the price quoted before taxes, Dest, Registration and doc fees. In other words it will be helpful to provide me the breakup.
In the market for an EX-L with RES. Tried autobrag today, and got 2 decent offers. The lower one was for 30,475 including destination. That seems in line with some of the better prices I've seen on here.
I'm looking to lease, is there a way to know if you're eligible for the super preferred tier before you talk to the dealer? I have a mistake on my credit report from 2 of the three agencies, and it's put my credit score from one of the agencies below what I've seen as the minimum score...of course there's no time to fix it before the lease incentive expires....
We actually leased, but here is what we were able to negotiate:
2010 Honda Odyssey EX MSRP $30,615 Selling Price $26,394 (Dealer threw in FREE window tint on the front 2 windows, too) $75.00
The sales person in the internet dept told me they took the $1250 off invoice price, and had gone $550 into the "hold back" to get to $26,394 (and they lost $75 in the free window tint, too). All in all, I had to fight to get this deal........they only had 2 of the EX models on the lot!! Now, they have one left.......no more on the way.
We were going to purchase an odyssey but something was bothering me because of some things-- the stock number of the car was lower than others in lot but it had no inspector stickers like the others ( according to the salesperson--it wasn't "T&D" or prepped yet)_ and the features like doors, NAV, DVD were not activated yet). He said the car probably arrived only a few days though it is in the internet inventory. Is this possible? And hav all of you noticed that the arm rests in the back sometimes isn't straight like the ones in the fron. Thanks.
Look on the window sticker and see if the shipped to dealer is same as dealer you are looking at the van is located. Could be a unit that was traded in from another dealer. This is common, and not usually a red flag.
Also, look on driver's door. There is a sticker that has VIN and also month and year of production. Can use that as guide to vehicle's age.
A vehicle can be in dealer's internet inventory before it actually hits the dealers lot.
Well we finally pulled the trigger yesterday. Dealer still wouldn't budge from the $33,000. But the lowest price we got over the interenet/phone was $33,400. We also made them give us $400 more for our trade in. Took a week, but finally drove it home last night.
Thanks to everyone for their great advice! Now, off to learn all about the NAVI system.
I think you have to resign yourself to the dealer making money on your trade. If you really don't like that, then sell it yourself. Here in IL, that comes with a significant risk though......at the time of purchase, you can offset your trade in price against the car price, which lowers the taxes. On a decent trade in, this can mean $1000 or so just for that tax savings. Therefore, you have to be pretty confident that you can sell your car yourself for more than the trade in price PLUS 1000......and you can't really go back and do it over if you're wrong......unless you have an extra car and can put your car on the market in advance of buying the new one just to test it out.....
Plus I THINK there is a better chance that people pay more for used cars from dealers rather than private party....something about negotiating with a dude in his driveway probably makes people more cautious that when they're at the lot.
I decided to get a fair trade in price and let them do the work. I probably could have made an extra 500-1000 if I were lucky in the private sale, but due to the risk of missing tax effect, plus the work of having a bunch of shmoes showing up at my house for the next few weeks to drive my car......I traded it in. I'm pretty sure the dealer made at least 2500 flipping it.....
and to be fair to the dealer, the reason they don't "pay up" for trade ins is risk management - if they stay at or below the current Manheim auction values (which tend to be lower that KBB etc) then they don't risk LOSING money on the trade. They can let the car sit for a month on the lot and hopefully flip it for thousands in profit, but if they're wrong, worst case is they send it to the auctions and get out for a small profit or at least cost......I would do the same if I were buying cars everyday for resale.....
Hogan, Thanks for all of your wisdom on this board! It really helped us in our dealings. I'm currently 7 months pregnant so selling our old van on our own was not a task we wanted to take on at this time. We are very happy with the deal we got at least for this area. They wouldn't budge below $33,000 for the Odyssey EX-L with RES and NAV, but then again, all the other dealers around here wouldn't go below $34K-$35K. We got upper KBB for our current van which we were happy with. I think it all worked out.
Now I just get to enjoy driving the new van and I'm just thrilled!!
So how good is the deal with ($0 down payment, $0 security deposit, $0 first month's payment, $0 due at lease signing) on the Odyssey? does it apply to EXL w/ RES?
Can I just do the 0,0,0,0 deal and then pay it off at the end of the lease. Wouldn't this be like a 0% loan? I plan on keeping the car for over 8 years.
Any problems with my thinking? Anyone else try to do this?
Hello there!! You might be better off looking in the "LEASE QUESTIONS" forum here under the Honda Odyssey. This area is for people BUYING the Odyssey.
To answer your question, the HONDA 0 0 0 0 event is advertised for the LX model. However, if you are willing to spend a little time negotiating thru several dealers......you should be able to get the EX model (like I did just on Saturday) for close to the $0 due at drive off and $300/mo for 36 months.........my payment was $309 + tax. (I did $0 due, sign & drive) It took a few weeks to get this deal.
You will need to do some research on the LEASE area here.
The best quote I got for the EX-L model (MSRP $34,115) was: $0 due at drive-off and $405/mo + tax for 36 months/12,000 miles a year. ***So, the EX-L w/RES would be around $415/mo. + tax
Hey there!! Here is wha tI came up with regarding your EX-L w/RES deal:
MSRP is $35,715 (EX-L w/RES) INVOICE is $32,416 Dealer Cash is $1250 Dealer "hold back" is $550-$600 (usually, dealers will not give you this) ---------------------------------------------------------- So, your price is $30,767 + $339 (for the "add ons") = $31,106 + tax/fees ***The $339 is for the "add ons" the dealer has installed, this is fine, no worries, there is probably $175 in profit there........the dealer needs to make some money!! ***The $356 fee is most likely a DOC fee. Don't sweat that fee, most dealers have a DOC fee. It is a fee straight to the owner of the dealership.
when comparing "deals" out there............DO NOT FOCUS on "out the door" pricing.......since all states have different tax rates. Focus on selling price.
The selling price of $30,767 is INVOICE PRICE minus $1250 minus "hold back". I don't think you can do any better.............BUY IT. 2010 Odyssey inventory is thinning out.......because of all these insane deals.
Does your sale price include the $710 Dest fee? You will see a page or two prior that I got a EX-L RES for about $500 less but also had to pay the $710 dest fee. Your price is very very good. From what I can read anytime your sale price is under 31k you did quite well.
I just negotiated a lease deal for the 2010 Odyssey EXL with DVD, back up camera, leather, remote trunk. The cost of the vehicle is $31,000 and the residual will be $18,000 after the 3 year lease with a payment of $420 with no money down except the paperwork admin fees of $325.
they had to search for the vehicle since it was a 2010 but we were told it was found today.
thanks to the hogan's rule...this was great experience for me...OTD price of $30,000.00...$10,000 down...$20,000 for 3.09% apr financing for 60 month...ended up paying $360.63/month...everyone were satisfied and happy...here is the breakdown list of fees...
Sadly I just found this site, so i'm reading back through everything trying to quickly get up to speed as i'm more than likely purchasing tomorrow, but any and all feedback would be appreciated.
What i was quoted today: $34,393 -$2,500 trade (1998 Ford Explorer in so-so shape) $31,893
Final Price after Tax and Tags: $33,407.79
I can't believe i'm seeing people here listing that they're getting RES and NAVI for what I was about to pay without either. The RES and NAVI ones seem to be listed for $41k. Obviously there's a lot more play in their pricing than I would have expected.
Is there any sort of benefit for paying for it outright?
What should i ask for? What should i be firm on? Again, i'm going through and reading up, I just figured posting couldn't hurt. Thanks.
I am also in Winston-Salem. I went to http://www.autoparkpreowned.com/ and got an internet quote for 2010 Odyssey EX-L w/o RES and NAVI at $29,468 plus the tax and fees (including destination). I am still trying to get a better deal.
Are you saying $29,468 includes all the fees and destination, or no?
So basically they're not really giving me anything for our tradein as much as they have that much room to play around with. Another dealer in Charlotte just now quoted me $32,200 if i buy it tonight, and he'll 'share' the $1250 incentive with me. I hate car salespeople. And Lawyers.
Jealous..along with going through the posts go to truecar.com. The site will tell you what the invoice and true cost to the dealer is. In all honesty you should be able to get a EXL without RES or Nav between 29k to 31 including Dest. That's the range you are targeting...obviously the lower the better. I am sure others would say 31k is too high. IMHO anywhere in that range is good deal. Offers over 31 or so and I would move on. I am not including your trade-in on any of the scenarios either.
LasVegasRPH - I don't get your posts......someone comes in and says they are getting 30,767 for EXL-RES and you tell them "I don't think you can do any better" yet a BUNCH of us just posted that we've recently bought same car for right around 30K. What gives? Many people HAVE done better....so your statement is wrong...... Then you advise that the dealer add ons are "fine" and the dealer needs to make a profit - as if there is no choice in the matter? If you don't want to pay the dealer $100 for some freakin locking lug nuts, then you can always tell them you don't want it......
don't hate the salespeople and lawyers, but use them...make them your team...make them compete each other to get the best price for you...it is a great deal if $29,468 includes all the fees and destination and taxes...there should not be a "hidden" fee...but if it is not include all the fee and taxes, then it might be a retail price...find out a "out-the-door"(OTD) price from each dealer...and make sure there is no additional fees or taxes...tell dealer to give you a breakdown list of fees & taxes...
If my local dealer had her way with us yesterday we'd have walked away with a White EX-L without RES for $31,893, which would have worked out (after Tax, Tags and Fees) to $33,407.79 OTD (Out The Door - Final Price). We wanted a light blue one (ocean mist), but the only one they had in that colour had a RES system (we really weren't interested in paying an extra $1500 for a 9'' monitor and dvd player) so they were going to have to order the vehicle in from another dealership
We said we wanted to sleep on it (thankfully) and I came home and hopped on the internet to see if I could find any info on pricing. So I ended up pouring over this forum until about 3am last night to get up to speed, and then woke up and started calling dealerships. I basically bs'd my way to the price I was comfortable with, and really only contacted 4 dealers (Charlotte, High Point, Greensboro, Winston-Salem) so I could actually say 'I spoke with so-and-so at X'. I called my local dealership last (Winston-Salem isn't that large of a town) after I had all of my ducks in a row, and they were happy to match the lowest price offer I got, and throw in some extras because I told them I had been offered extras by other dealers (which i lied about, but it might as well have been true because they would have given me anything I asked for really).
Once I realized we could have the RES system for less than what I was quoted without it.. It kinda made me furious enough to want the one on their lot with RES, so that's what we got. (I also read the no-RES vs RES arguments here and got swung over to the RES camp)
It took me a while to actually find the Hogan Method everybody here was talking about, but it's well worth the read. Thanks Hogan773 and everybody else on here taking the time to shepherd the uninformed.
True Car was helpful for determining pricing in my area, but it didn't take the $1250 incentive into account. The 'dealer cost' (True Cost) in my area is supposed to be $30,816, but I got it for less than that. So i dunno, maybe i did it wrong. This forum was way more helpful regarding pricing.
What We Paid 2010 Odyssey EX-L with RES $35,715 Sticker Price $30,400 Sale Price (I could have easily pushed for $30,200 or $30,100) -$600 for our 98 Ford Explorer with 113k miles =$29,800 +$1,427 TTF OTD = $31277.00
Free Extras +Lazy Susan for the behind-the-front-seat floor storage $161 +Black All-Season Floor Mats - $209 (we got to keep the original mats as well) +Moonroof Visor - $138 +Mud Guards - $107 +Wheel Locks - $81 +Cargo Mat - $107 (These are all dealer 'retail' prices. You can find them much cheaper on the internet, or get them for free if you simply ask)
We paid cash for our Odyssey, so as I understand it we got $1,250 'extra' off the price, as apparently you don't get that if you finance.
Warranty They (Flow Honda) wanted to sell me 'an equivalent' Warranty system through their 'partner' for $1400 (8/120/0), but after asking and asking about it they finally admitted that it was only good at their 'partner' dealers throughout our state. So instead I'm going with a Honda Care Extended Warranty (EW) through Bernardi (They're mentioned quite a lot over on the Warranty part of the forum) for $1295 (8 year/120k miles/$0 deductable). $1290 is supposedly what the dealer pays for that warranty and then they 'have' to tack on a bunch of extra charges, and I guess Bernardi just does volume or they really don't care. Don't take the time to get a great price on a vehicle, and then pay hundreds extra to the same dealer for a warranty you can get at cost from any Honda dealer in the USA. You've got 6,000 miles to decide on getting the extended warranty. If your dealership wants to sell it to you for $1400.. do you really want to give them an extra $105 for no reason?
I have to say that car dealers in general really seem to make every little tiny thing associated with the purchase appear to be some huge insurmountable problem that they really have to go out of their way to fix for you. "We don't have that colour in stock, would you mind it in White?" We were honestly saying 'okay' to things like that. Like our dealer was our best friend and we were happy to help them out any little way we could cause their job is so hard. It was dumb of us. I eventually just reached the point where i'd cut off their attempts at banter (much easier on the phone), because (thanks to this forum) I know what they can and can't do. Shipping vehicles around for customers is standard.
They wanted to sell me extra 'care' packages that would protect my leather and paint for 5 years, but honestly if the paint or leather cracks i'm simply taking the vehicle back. My dealer hasn't jumped on the Nitrogen Tires trend yet, but the other dealers wanted to give me that for free, along with 'tire care' deals. They all constantly wanted me to either come in or tell them we had a deal over the phone "If i get you car mats can I say we have a deal?". I just kept saying no and that I was waiting for other dealers calls even if i loved their price because it seems like they're all willing to out-do each other for your business. You just have to be willing to walk away, and DON'T go into dealerships.. which is really the benefit of calling other dealers in your state before your local one first. Everybody can give you a quote over the phone within 10 minutes. If they say otherwise they're lying to you.
Sorry this turned out to be so long. Super-skinny forum formatting makes me look really wordy. I'm just happy we got a new Odyssey, with the package we wanted, for a great price. Thanks!
Does anyone know is there a Sales tax on Destination charge. My dealer is charging me sales tax on the following - Sale Price + $710 - Trade-In Price. I would highly appreciate any help in this matter.
I'm not sure if there's different laws state by state, but my dealer (North Carolina) ate the $710 Destination Charge. It was listed on the invoice, but then removed on the bottom line (OTD).
Comments
So, I had a quote for $30,190 + 3% sales tax + $499 doc fee + $74 tags --> less than $31,700 OTD
I used that quote to get a quote for $30,608 + 3% sales tax + $399 doc fee (note lower than other dealer) + $74 tags --> exactly $32,000 OTD from a more convenient dealer. Obviously, if I would have counted dest charge separately, I could claim that my base price was under $30k - not that such a claim would change what I actually had to fork over!
The car we bought also has wheel locks and mud guards, which the lower quote did not include. We were indifferent to those features, so it didn't change anything in our decision.
I have done a search on this forum but haven't been able to find any resent posts about the EX-L with RES and NAVI. Most of the posts are almost a year old (with the exception of your ehgieboy), and I know pricing was different a year ago.
We haven't sat down with the paperwork yet so I have no idea what kind of "fees" are being built into that number. I DO know that they will not be charging for the mud flaps, door guards, and wheel locks.
29,618 Actual cost
710 freight
1819 6 % tax
200 Title and Doc fees
32,347 OTD
You also mentioned that you have a trade in vehicle. That may be offsetting your price on the van. Did you try negotiating first without mentioning your trade in?
You can pretty much estimate your fees depending how much your taxes there. Mine was Doc. fees of $55 + 3,149 (9.75% Ca sales tax), title/transfer/tire fees $466.75. OTD price $ 35,921 49. Hope this will hep you.
We went and test drove the van we are interested in. He showed us what he paid for the vehicle which was $34,500 I guess. But I still feel that there is some wiggle room. The problem as you said is inventory. Our local area dealers are running pretty low on the EX-L with RES and NAVI. Color choices really aren't that great. I want the Slate Green Metallic with Olive leather interior. There is only ONE and we test drove it last night. There isn't another dealer within a 2 hours drive that has one. Not sure we really want to wait until the 2011's come out because if we are going to spend that kind of money, I do want to get the color I want. I'm sure it is a girl thing. :confuse:
The $33,000 was the best we could negotiate before he knew we had a possible trade in. They seem pretty darn firm, but then we haven't committed to anything yet either. Ideally, I'd like to get down around 32,500. That's basically $1,000 under invoice (based on edmunds.com). I'd be pretty darn happy with that. But not sure if we would still get the maximum for our trade that way. We will most likely be trading in our 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan EX which runs wonderfully and has had no problems. Only 47,000 miles on it and it is a 2003.
I don't know, this whole thing is exhausting! :confuse:
Nail the trade and then talk financing...keep them hoping that you might finance. Even if you don't do Honda financing, the dealer may still originate loans for local lenders.
I'm looking to lease, is there a way to know if you're eligible for the super preferred tier before you talk to the dealer? I have a mistake on my credit report from 2 of the three agencies, and it's put my credit score from one of the agencies below what I've seen as the minimum score...of course there's no time to fix it before the lease incentive expires....
2010 Honda Odyssey EX
MSRP $30,615
Selling Price $26,394
(Dealer threw in FREE window tint on the front 2 windows, too) $75.00
The sales person in the internet dept told me they took the $1250 off invoice price, and had gone $550 into the "hold back" to get to $26,394 (and they lost $75 in the free window tint, too). All in all, I had to fight to get this deal........they only had 2 of the EX models on the lot!! Now, they have one left.......no more on the way.
Also, look on driver's door. There is a sticker that has VIN and also month and year of production. Can use that as guide to vehicle's age.
A vehicle can be in dealer's internet inventory before it actually hits the dealers lot.
Thanks to everyone for their great advice! Now, off to learn all about the NAVI system.
Plus I THINK there is a better chance that people pay more for used cars from dealers rather than private party....something about negotiating with a dude in his driveway probably makes people more cautious that when they're at the lot.
I decided to get a fair trade in price and let them do the work. I probably could have made an extra 500-1000 if I were lucky in the private sale, but due to the risk of missing tax effect, plus the work of having a bunch of shmoes showing up at my house for the next few weeks to drive my car......I traded it in. I'm pretty sure the dealer made at least 2500 flipping it.....
and to be fair to the dealer, the reason they don't "pay up" for trade ins is risk management - if they stay at or below the current Manheim auction values (which tend to be lower that KBB etc) then they don't risk LOSING money on the trade. They can let the car sit for a month on the lot and hopefully flip it for thousands in profit, but if they're wrong, worst case is they send it to the auctions and get out for a small profit or at least cost......I would do the same if I were buying cars everyday for resale.....
Thanks for all of your wisdom on this board! It really helped us in our dealings. I'm currently 7 months pregnant so selling our old van on our own was not a task we wanted to take on at this time. We are very happy with the deal we got at least for this area. They wouldn't budge below $33,000 for the Odyssey EX-L with RES and NAV, but then again, all the other dealers around here wouldn't go below $34K-$35K. We got upper KBB for our current van which we were happy with. I think it all worked out.
Now I just get to enjoy driving the new van and I'm just thrilled!!
Can I just do the 0,0,0,0 deal and then pay it off at the end of the lease. Wouldn't this be like a 0% loan? I plan on keeping the car for over 8 years.
Any problems with my thinking? Anyone else try to do this?
You might be better off looking in the "LEASE QUESTIONS" forum here under the Honda Odyssey. This area is for people BUYING the Odyssey.
To answer your question, the HONDA 0 0 0 0 event is advertised for the LX model. However, if you are willing to spend a little time negotiating thru several dealers......you should be able to get the EX model (like I did just on Saturday) for close to the $0 due at drive off and $300/mo for 36 months.........my payment was $309 + tax. (I did $0 due, sign & drive) It took a few weeks to get this deal.
You will need to do some research on the LEASE area here.
The best quote I got for the EX-L model (MSRP $34,115) was: $0 due at drive-off and $405/mo + tax for 36 months/12,000 miles a year.
***So, the EX-L w/RES would be around $415/mo. + tax
$30767
$339 (Cargo Tray, Mud guard, Wheellocks)
$1944.13 (Tax 6.25%)
$356 (Fee)
$33,381.00
How do you think this quote? It seems a little more than folks posted here. We are thinking of pull the trigger this week if it seems fair.
Thanks,
Ben
MSRP is $35,715 (EX-L w/RES)
INVOICE is $32,416
Dealer Cash is $1250
Dealer "hold back" is $550-$600 (usually, dealers will not give you this)
----------------------------------------------------------
So, your price is $30,767 + $339 (for the "add ons") = $31,106 + tax/fees
***The $339 is for the "add ons" the dealer has installed, this is fine, no worries, there is probably $175 in profit there........the dealer needs to make some money!!
***The $356 fee is most likely a DOC fee. Don't sweat that fee, most dealers have a DOC fee. It is a fee straight to the owner of the dealership.
when comparing "deals" out there............DO NOT FOCUS on "out the door" pricing.......since all states have different tax rates. Focus on selling price.
The selling price of $30,767 is INVOICE PRICE minus $1250 minus "hold back". I don't think you can do any better.............BUY IT. 2010 Odyssey inventory is thinning out.......because of all these insane deals.
I just negotiated a lease deal for the 2010 Odyssey EXL with DVD, back up camera, leather, remote trunk. The cost of the vehicle is $31,000 and the residual will be $18,000 after the 3 year lease with a payment of $420 with no money down except the paperwork admin fees of $325.
they had to search for the vehicle since it was a 2010 but we were told it was found today.
Best of luck
Shawn
Ben
retail price $27,895.50
freight fee $ 710.00
titling tax/reg. fee $ 27.00
dealer bus. lic. tax $ 49.28
sales & use tax $ 869.72
license fee $ 63.50
processing fee $ 385.00
==========================
total $30,000.00
again, thanks to the hogan's rule...
What i was quoted today:
$34,393
-$2,500 trade (1998 Ford Explorer in so-so shape)
$31,893
Final Price after Tax and Tags:
$33,407.79
I can't believe i'm seeing people here listing that they're getting RES and NAVI for what I was about to pay without either. The RES and NAVI ones seem to be listed for $41k. Obviously there's a lot more play in their pricing than I would have expected.
Is there any sort of benefit for paying for it outright?
What should i ask for? What should i be firm on? Again, i'm going through and reading up, I just figured posting couldn't hurt. Thanks.
and got an internet quote for 2010 Odyssey EX-L w/o RES and NAVI at $29,468 plus the tax and fees (including destination). I am still trying to get a better deal.
So basically they're not really giving me anything for our tradein as much as they have that much room to play around with. Another dealer in Charlotte just now quoted me $32,200 if i buy it tonight, and he'll 'share' the $1250 incentive with me. I hate car salespeople. And Lawyers.
Are you a Honda salesman or something?
Thanks!
We said we wanted to sleep on it (thankfully) and I came home and hopped on the internet to see if I could find any info on pricing.
Once I realized we could have the RES system for less than what I was quoted without it.. It kinda made me furious enough to want the one on their lot with RES, so that's what we got. (I also read the no-RES vs RES arguments here and got swung over to the RES camp)
It took me a while to actually find the Hogan Method everybody here was talking about, but it's well worth the read. Thanks Hogan773 and everybody else on here taking the time to shepherd the uninformed.
True Car was helpful for determining pricing in my area, but it didn't take the $1250 incentive into account. The 'dealer cost' (True Cost) in my area is supposed to be $30,816, but I got it for less than that. So i dunno, maybe i did it wrong. This forum was way more helpful regarding pricing.
What We Paid
2010 Odyssey EX-L with RES
$35,715 Sticker Price
$30,400 Sale Price (I could have easily pushed for $30,200 or $30,100)
-$600 for our 98 Ford Explorer with 113k miles
=$29,800
+$1,427 TTF
OTD = $31277.00
Free Extras
+Lazy Susan for the behind-the-front-seat floor storage $161
+Black All-Season Floor Mats - $209 (we got to keep the original mats as well)
+Moonroof Visor - $138
+Mud Guards - $107
+Wheel Locks - $81
+Cargo Mat - $107
(These are all dealer 'retail' prices. You can find them much cheaper on the internet, or get them for free if you simply ask)
We paid cash for our Odyssey, so as I understand it we got $1,250 'extra' off the price, as apparently you don't get that if you finance.
Warranty
They (Flow Honda) wanted to sell me 'an equivalent' Warranty system through their 'partner' for $1400 (8/120/0), but after asking and asking about it they finally admitted that it was only good at their 'partner' dealers throughout our state. So instead I'm going with a Honda Care Extended Warranty (EW) through Bernardi (They're mentioned quite a lot over on the Warranty part of the forum) for $1295 (8 year/120k miles/$0 deductable). $1290 is supposedly what the dealer pays for that warranty and then they 'have' to tack on a bunch of extra charges, and I guess Bernardi just does volume or they really don't care. Don't take the time to get a great price on a vehicle, and then pay hundreds extra to the same dealer for a warranty you can get at cost from any Honda dealer in the USA. You've got 6,000 miles to decide on getting the extended warranty. If your dealership wants to sell it to you for $1400.. do you really want to give them an extra $105 for no reason?
I have to say that car dealers in general really seem to make every little tiny thing associated with the purchase appear to be some huge insurmountable problem that they really have to go out of their way to fix for you. "We don't have that colour in stock, would you mind it in White?" We were honestly saying 'okay' to things like that. Like our dealer was our best friend and we were happy to help them out any little way we could cause their job is so hard. It was dumb of us. I eventually just reached the point where i'd cut off their attempts at banter (much easier on the phone), because (thanks to this forum) I know what they can and can't do. Shipping vehicles around for customers is standard.
They wanted to sell me extra 'care' packages that would protect my leather and paint for 5 years, but honestly if the paint or leather cracks i'm simply taking the vehicle back. My dealer hasn't jumped on the Nitrogen Tires trend yet, but the other dealers wanted to give me that for free, along with 'tire care' deals. They all constantly wanted me to either come in or tell them we had a deal over the phone "If i get you car mats can I say we have a deal?". I just kept saying no and that I was waiting for other dealers calls even if i loved their price because it seems like they're all willing to out-do each other for your business. You just have to be willing to walk away, and DON'T go into dealerships.. which is really the benefit of calling other dealers in your state before your local one first. Everybody can give you a quote over the phone within 10 minutes. If they say otherwise they're lying to you.
Sorry this turned out to be so long. Super-skinny forum formatting makes me look really wordy. I'm just happy we got a new Odyssey, with the package we wanted, for a great price. Thanks!