The buying club I have does not allow the dealers to charge a processing fee - if you belong to a credit union ask and see if they participate with the MVCP program http://www.mvcp.com/home.php as then you can get invoice and no fee.
Based on your link and comment; I called MVCP to find out if either of the two credit unions I belong to are particpating members; interestingly enough, one is and one is not, but because I would use the one not a member for potential financing (lower rate, 4.75 v 5.5) I thought I would be precluded; guy said no, could use financing from either, which I found to be a nice surprise indeed. Not ready to buy today, but glad you posted this info. If I understand it right, this program locates the car, negotiates the selling price at invoice, and gets you connected to the correct dealer, is that correct?
I have gotten nowhere with the dealer that uses Costco pricing, they want me to come in and when I told them that the other buying club I use sells for invoice he told me they can't match that and that would need approval from a manager. I wasn't prepared to go negotiate with that dealer so can't tell you how much it would be over invoice.
Glad that I was able to help, I'm not financing through my credit union and am still able to use the MVCP program which is great about this service. The prices on the honda 2008 accord are invoice and on the 2007 accord I think at least $1000 under invoice. There are no savings on the navigation models though.
The program doesn't locate the car for you, they just put you in touch with a dealer that will honor the program and then it's up to you to call and see if they have the car you want. The price is already negotiated so all you have to do is negotiate the options they want to add on.
Idiot BOB ROHRMAN. In the dealer I bought my Accord they have 1 Accord LX I4 in the show room. MSRP is $26K. The dealer installed bigger shiny wheels, spoiler and some other stuff. They ask for $36K. The 4 bigger wheels cost some $4K. There may be some young inexperienced buyers will try to bargain for that "idiot" I4.
We looked into the Costco program and were offered $250 off MSRP for a V6 model and $500 off MRSP for the I4. Most of the Dealers around here ADD several thousand dollars in "market adjustment" to the MSRP so maybe the Costco prices are the best to be had. This is in the Seattle area and if anyone has a good Dealer, let me know!
I'm looking to buy a 2008 EX-L 4 dr V6 with Nav. I wanted to know list on this and if anyone has a great dealer that works via internet for buying remote. seems like i have seen some prices like 25K and some at 28K for this same car?
Go for it. It's a super nice car, if I do not want to say it is a powerful greyhound that loves to jump ahead & run fast but it pretends to be an innocent & dumb deer. I bought one already. I love it better than a $60K BMW or Benz. It has been rated 5 stars in all categories by automobile critics.
Please ignore the "negative" influence from the dealers. DO NOT FORGET "You write the paycheck 2 for them, not other way around."
Honda gives them 3.5% holdback(and volume rebate), which is a very good profit at the first place. Who will win in the end of this game--->YOU. Let's try to delay your purchase for 3 months, I can bet you these dealers have no choice to sell the cars BELOW invoices, otherwise, they will get goverment subsidies...
SO KEEP IT COOL UNTIL THEY GIVE UP
Meanwhile, get used car, motocycle for 3 months....
Suits me fine, I'm not in the market for the NAV package. Undecided if I'll go with the EX-L 5M or EX-L V6; really want a stick shift. In any event, I can expect or hope to pay invoice, plus destination, tax and registration and no other fees, correct?
A salesman told me he would try to get me a Japanese Accord which is a better quality than the American (or where ever) assembled Accord. Uh....has anybody heard this before. And where is the Accord made. My Ridgeline was made in Canada.
He's telling lies... the only [non-permissible content removed] made Accords tha I've seen were the ones that were delivered during the first week of production (LX, LX-P, EX(very few)), no EXLs, or EXLs w/Nav. After the initial launch, most products come from the Marysville, OH factory. The Accord is not like a BMW. There's no way that you can force Honda to build your factory wherever the customer wants. It's not in a dealer power to tell Honda what to do. Dealer < Corporate Giant. Therefore, don;t trust your dealer! they have allocations, but not the power to decide where it should be built!
I hope you drop the stick idea, unless you decide to go with the coupe. A stick in the sedan will demand more than invoice because of stock issues(the need to order one from Honda) and is also time consuming(you need to be really patient). The coupes that I've seen has some that came in sticks (maybe 1 in every 3). Not many but better chance to get a better price.
I got several quotes in NC. The quote that Leith gave me is $23,411 OTD. That's ~$670 over invoice OTD price I calculated (I did not factor in holdback). It sounds like a really good deal, but I'm a bit nervous because it doesnt fit the reputation of Leith that I've heard about.
In negotiations, you generally start your negotiating position at a favorable position for yourself. Leith came in with a quote about $1100-1200 lower than other dealers (Flows, Hickory). I'm wondering what kind of gambit are they running? Or is Leith trying to do some honest business here.
I also requested a quote from Crown Honda twice, but they refuse to give me a quote until I come into their office -- and that's their internet sales mgr talking. Which fits their reputation perfectly.
does anyone know what the residual and money factor for a 2008 Honda Accord EX-L V6 w/Navi? I am looking to lease and need this to figure out the monthly payment. Also if you have the suggested MSRP of this car that is great. Thanks.
The State of Ohio has different tax rates in each county. You pay sales tax for the county in which you live even if you buy the car in another county or another state.
Agree w/ u. So the dealers here (Boise) are looking to sell for or near MSRP. Any trustworthy internet dealers that I could fly to and get one near the invoice price (i think that is about $27,400)? I think I would come out money ahead.Also is the Nav system the only real difference between the EX-L V6 and w/ Nav as the name would suggest & if so is it really worth 2K?
Agree w/ u. So the dealers here (Boise) are looking to sell for or near MSRP. Any trustworthy internet dealers that I could fly to and get one near the invoice price (i think that is about $27,400)? I think I would come out money ahead.Also is the Nav system the only real difference between the EX-L V6 and w/ Nav as the name would suggest & if so is it really worth 2K?
Doesn't the NAV option include the trip computer ie. instant and avg MPG ?
I see where smartguy5 posted that dealers get 3.5 kickback, if that is the case on a list of $27,400 they would get ~$959 back. So selling at invoice is a reasonable profit, if not a little high. Hopefully I can hold out ("I don't have to have") a new car right now. I sent Grace a request for a quote.... see what I get back tomorrow. I put down my offer was 27K OTD If any one else has knowledge on the kickback let me know, it seems like that would be a good item to put on the table if pricing becomes a sticking point.
Not to be mean or whatsoever... How can we know if he's telling the truth? 3.5% holdback, 2% holdback, 3 % holdback. We as the consumers are not informed abt this kind of stuffs. A unknown person came here and just told everyone that holdback is 3.5% and people just readily accepted the fact and start to the spread the rumor and etc. Please understand that even salesman have a family to be fed, and I am not saying that we should give them the big grosses, but be more understanding and stop spreading rumor, unless its backed up by data.
Carbuyingtips.com stated that its 2% (a fellow forum member isellhonda clarified that too). An edmunds data that was quite old(updated on Sept 2005/2006) showed 3.0%. I don;t even know where the in the name of XXXX that dreamcar got his holdback data from. Unless he could show me an official receipt, I'm really suspicious of his intentions. Also, dreamcar, if you really like buying AT REAL INVOICE, not edmunds invoice, WHY DON'T YOU OPEN UP A HONDA STORE AND SELL ME 3 CRVS that I am looking to purchase? :shades:
You will not get the EX-L V6 with Navi for 27K OTD however you can get it without navi for that price OTD. How can a customer determine how much profit is too much for a dealer?... Only the dealer will determine that and the price of the car is what it is.
You may get 27,000 + TTL, but not 27,000 including all taxes and fees. Unless of course, the dealer just sells you the vehicle and lets you pay the sales tax when you register back in your home state? Was that what you were thinking of?
BTW...if Grace doesn't have your vehicle in stock, forward the quote to Stevens Creek. They are a much larger dealer I think and they will match the price.
A salesman told me he would try to get me a Japanese Accord which is a better quality than the American (or where ever) assembled Accord. Uh....has anybody heard this before. And where is the Accord made. My Ridgeline was made in Canada.
Thanks
I don't know if they're better but I must admit I made an effort to get a Japan made Accord. The sticker says the engine and transmission are from Japan but It also says 60% of the part are from US & Canada.
Quick question I am 17 and I'm working to buy my first car, i currently have 4 grand saved up from my job and my parents will be covering the majority of the monthly payments afterward. I want a EX-L V6 2008 Accord Coupe and I'm looking to purchase the car in March, my issue currently is, if i go on the lot at a local dealer here in CA, should i look to be kicked off for looking so incompetent at this age? I really want to get a good feel of the car right now and want to make sure I won't be completely looked down upon due to my status.
Also, roughly, how much more is insurance on a Coupe compared to the Sedan?
The way I'd handle it w/Crown if they aren't willing to give you a price, is to reply to their email offering them an OTD price. If they reply back they're willing to accept and have the vehicle, you go there and close the deal...or walk, if they reneg on your offer acceptance. It certainly won't take you much time to figure out whether they're going to do the deal or not.
Leith has been non-competitive for me over the years, but I did hear of a reasonable deal from them via another poster about 3 months ago.....so they may be really trying to move some iron.
Well, hey don't be worried. Just bring an older adult that has done this before. You should be okay. Do your research, and send quotes via emial, then go to the dealership. If you need to test drive, then do just that, and then make try to use the deal offered via email. Don't take the first offer! Keep working on it. Be careful with your $4k, make sure its going towards the car, not to their pockets! You'll be fine, but don't rush it! You'll have a blast with the car! Take care of it! Its beautiful! This will be brand new! Remember that when your friends want to drive it, this will be your new baby, you'll have to treat it good, and it will give you years and years of life!! I have seen so many young drivers destroy their new cars. Just be careful:)
Also, insurance will probably be high since your young, its a coupe, its a V6. It will be much higher than a sedan, so that will have to be factored in. The Honda V6 is really powerful, you sure you need that much power?
Best thing to do, is have alot of knowledge of the car, and the way things work. Tell them the reasonable price you want to pay, and go from there. There are many other dealerships that want your service. If it doesn't feel right than don't take the deal. Good Luck to ya!! Keep coming back here to inform yourself of the current market on these cars!
You will need to be 18 or older to buy the car in your name, but even if you're 18, you will need your parents to cosign for the credit since you are not paying cash. Since your parents are going to cosign or buy it their names, they are going to have to go with you to the dealer anyway.
Your parents need to check the actual insurance rates by calling the insurance companies instead of just wondering and guessing how much it might be. They can check today to get a idea of rates and then check again in March to see if anything changed.
You need to read some of those "how to buy a new car" articles.
szer, thanks for the reply... you made a point on the invoice, is there 2 different versions? Edmunds shows $27,404 what is the other one? I think the price negation with any dealer might just boil down to the number of customers that want the same car as I do... right? I just hope my local dealer will match one of the internet prices. You hear the dealers tell you that they want to be the place for all your future car purchases so it will be interesting to see how willing they are to match. I bought from my local dealer last time (2000 Accord EX) and have taken it there for service so.... will I get treated like family or not?
You know, it may be a pipe dream, but wouldn't it be great if all prices and lease deals were standardized from dealer to dealer and the only difference was state tax?
It just seems to me that all dealer incentives and dealer manipulations of the price favor the dealer and confuse the consumer; this is especially true of lease deals. I've been shopping for a new car for 6 months and have been to almost every major brand and the same thing happens in every dealership: they work out a super high number that favors them and then chip a tiny bit away to entice me to buy. Many times it's the price that's too high for the quality and options of the car they are selling. I live in the tri state area NY so often I hear; "Look, we have a lot of wealthy customers that are hot for this car, we don't have to discount." I should write an article for the Times about my experiences, it's been really bizarre.
I'm a laid back, honest person who is pretty smart about lease calculations and comparrison shopping but I don't want to buy a car out of state or on the internet from an unknown source; it's always good to have a relationship with a good service department and a good dealer. The rub is that the entry price into that relationship is too high for what you really get in too many cases. There was once a separation of price and quality among car makers, ie: Porche, Mercedes etc... but Honda?
The service dept. at the dealer nearest you is going to be happy to do any warranty work (they get paid by the manufacturer) or service work for you regardless of where you bought the car.
Several yrs ago, I bought a new Accord a couple hundred miles away (saved $1500 over the best local deal). The service folks at the local Honda dealer treated me the same as if I had bought the car here--excellent service.
If you're thinking lease, work on the price first. Only after you hear the price you want should you say the word "lease". You should go in already knowing the residual and money factors for that particular model and lease terms.
I am planning to get the 2008 Honda Accord Coupe EX (2.5, 4 cylinder, Polish Metallic Metal, cloth) with no additions and just wonder if anyone who has bought the car can share how much they did they pay? I'm living in Southern CA, will there be a big difference between states? Also, I read something about the PZEV but still feel a little bit confused. Am I legally required to get a car with PZEV? The Accord Coupe does provide this option but I don't know if I need to pay extra for it. This is first time I buy a car and really appreciate any help. Please share your opinion. Thanks!!
The edmunds invoice is what every dealer is supposed to pay Honda. But somewhere down the line, I'm pretty sure that Honda provide discounts for being a good dealerships, volume dealerships and loyalty blah blah blah (all these discounts or incentives) are only known to the business owner. Not even the salesmen know much about them. Using the edmunds invoice is good start. I really think that we, the consumers, are in control of these prices. Buying at invoice is no longer a dream, but a reality. My salesman admitted that for every invoice sale, he earned a mini (50-125) dollars. Therefore, I don't really like dreamcar's attitude towards salesmen. They work 60 hours a week to make a living. We should treat them with respect and not like bad guys. I believe that a good salesman should be rewarded with a sale that benefits both parties.
Most dealers claim they'll match prices to get you there. Steven Creeks quote to me was much higher and when I mentioned the lower quote I had from Grace they said they could not match it, much less beat it. Dealers can always locate the car you want, it may take a little time.
PZEV and ULEV stand for partially zero or ultra low emmission vehicle. Most, if not all, Accords are made with either one of those designations and there is no extra cost on it. The label is on the window of the vehicle. Good luck.
Comments
Based on your link and comment; I called MVCP to find out if either of the two credit unions I belong to are particpating members; interestingly enough, one is and one is not, but because I would use the one not a member for potential financing (lower rate, 4.75 v 5.5) I thought I would be precluded; guy said no, could use financing from either, which I found to be a nice surprise indeed. Not ready to buy today, but glad you posted this info. If I understand it right, this program locates the car, negotiates the selling price at invoice, and gets you connected to the correct dealer, is that correct?
The program doesn't locate the car for you, they just put you in touch with a dealer that will honor the program and then it's up to you to call and see if they have the car you want. The price is already negotiated so all you have to do is negotiate the options they want to add on.
of
$23,325 (Invoice is $23,428)
$100 in dealer fees
+ Tax and Title
No other costs
Should i pull the trigger, or have people gone further under invoice on the 4cyl Accord Sedan
Thanks for any replies
Dave
Go for it. It's a super nice car, if I do not want to say it is a powerful greyhound that loves to jump ahead & run fast but it pretends to be an innocent & dumb deer. I bought one already. I love it better than a $60K BMW or Benz. It has been rated 5 stars in all categories by automobile critics.
Honda gives them 3.5% holdback(and volume rebate), which is a very good profit at the first place. Who will win in the end of this game--->YOU. Let's try to delay your purchase for 3 months, I can bet you these dealers have no choice to sell the cars BELOW invoices, otherwise, they will get goverment subsidies...
SO KEEP IT COOL UNTIL THEY GIVE UP
Meanwhile, get used car, motocycle for 3 months....
Thanks
"Where Built: Japan/Mexico/United States"
... so I suppose it's possible but that's the first I heard of it. :confuse:
US - for common Hondas 1H.... (for Crvs 5J...)
Mexico - 3CZ....
Canada - 2H
I am already beginning to see the mexican CRV in my dealership. I don't know if they produce other models or not. Cheers!
I hope you drop the stick idea, unless you decide to go with the coupe. A stick in the sedan will demand more than invoice because of stock issues(the need to order one from Honda) and is also time consuming(you need to be really patient). The coupes that I've seen has some that came in sticks (maybe 1 in every 3). Not many but better chance to get a better price.
In negotiations, you generally start your negotiating position at a favorable position for yourself. Leith came in with a quote about $1100-1200 lower than other dealers (Flows, Hickory). I'm wondering what kind of gambit are they running? Or is Leith trying to do some honest business here.
I also requested a quote from Crown Honda twice, but they refuse to give me a quote until I come into their office -- and that's their internet sales mgr talking. Which fits their reputation perfectly.
Thanks,
Noah
AskNoah@icloud.com
I'm not sure how to get your e-mail?
What do you think the chances are that I can get very close to that price here in LA / OC?
Thanks
Doesn't the NAV option include the trip computer ie. instant and avg MPG ?
Parviz bought a EX-L V6 Navi from Grace Honda in the SF Bay Area for a hair under 28,000 + TTL.
I sent Grace a request for a quote.... see what I get back tomorrow. I put down my offer was 27K OTD If any one else has knowledge on the kickback let me know, it seems like that would be a good item to put on the table if pricing becomes a sticking point.
Carbuyingtips.com stated that its 2% (a fellow forum member isellhonda clarified that too). An edmunds data that was quite old(updated on Sept 2005/2006) showed 3.0%. I don;t even know where the in the name of XXXX that dreamcar got his holdback data from. Unless he could show me an official receipt, I'm really suspicious of his intentions. Also, dreamcar, if you really like buying AT REAL INVOICE, not edmunds invoice, WHY DON'T YOU OPEN UP A HONDA STORE AND SELL ME 3 CRVS that I am looking to purchase? :shades:
How can a customer determine how much profit is too much for a dealer?... Only the dealer will determine that and the price of the car is what it is.
BTW...if Grace doesn't have your vehicle in stock, forward the quote to Stevens Creek. They are a much larger dealer I think and they will match the price.
Thanks
I don't know if they're better but I must admit I made an effort to get a Japan made Accord. The sticker says the engine and transmission are from Japan but It also says 60% of the part are from US & Canada.
Quick question
I am 17 and I'm working to buy my first car, i currently have 4 grand saved up from my job and my parents will be covering the majority of the monthly payments afterward.
I want a EX-L V6 2008 Accord Coupe and I'm looking to purchase the car in March, my issue currently is, if i go on the lot at a local dealer here in CA, should i look to be kicked off for looking so incompetent at this age?
I really want to get a good feel of the car right now and want to make sure I won't be completely looked down upon due to my status.
Also, roughly, how much more is insurance on a Coupe compared to the Sedan?
Leith has been non-competitive for me over the years, but I did hear of a reasonable deal from them via another poster about 3 months ago.....so they may be really trying to move some iron.
Also, insurance will probably be high since your young, its a coupe, its a V6. It will be much higher than a sedan, so that will have to be factored in. The Honda V6 is really powerful, you sure you need that much power?
Best thing to do, is have alot of knowledge of the car, and the way things work. Tell them the reasonable price you want to pay, and go from there. There are many other dealerships that want your service. If it doesn't feel right than don't take the deal. Good Luck to ya!! Keep coming back here to inform yourself of the current market on these cars!
Your parents need to check the actual insurance rates by calling the insurance companies instead of just wondering and guessing how much it might be. They can check today to get a idea of rates and then check again in March to see if anything changed.
You need to read some of those "how to buy a new car" articles.
I think the price negation with any dealer might just boil down to the number of customers that want the same car as I do... right? I just hope my local dealer will match one of the internet prices. You hear the dealers tell you that they want to be the place for all your future car purchases so it will be interesting to see how willing they are to match. I bought from my local dealer last time (2000 Accord EX) and have taken it there for service so.... will I get treated like family or not?
It just seems to me that all dealer incentives and dealer manipulations of the price favor the dealer and confuse the consumer; this is especially true of lease deals. I've been shopping for a new car for 6 months and have been to almost every major brand and the same thing happens in every dealership: they work out a super high number that favors them and then chip a tiny bit away to entice me to buy. Many times it's the price that's too high for the quality and options of the car they are selling. I live in the tri state area NY so often I hear; "Look, we have a lot of wealthy customers that are hot for this car, we don't have to discount." I should write an article for the Times about my experiences, it's been really bizarre.
I'm a laid back, honest person who is pretty smart about lease calculations and comparrison shopping but I don't want to buy a car out of state or on the internet from an unknown source; it's always good to have a relationship with a good service department and a good dealer. The rub is that the entry price into that relationship is too high for what you really get in too many cases. There was once a separation of price and quality among car makers, ie: Porche, Mercedes etc... but Honda?
The service dept. at the dealer nearest you is going to be happy to do any warranty work (they get paid by the manufacturer) or service work for you regardless of where you bought the car.
Several yrs ago, I bought a new Accord a couple hundred miles away (saved $1500 over the best local deal). The service folks at the local Honda dealer treated me the same as if I had bought the car here--excellent service.
If you're thinking lease, work on the price first. Only after you hear the price you want should you say the word "lease". You should go in already knowing the residual and money factors for that particular model and lease terms.