As I said before, these cars are not selling. You can get them for $1k (or more) less than you would have paid just a month to 6 weeks ago. I can understand the % rate moving because of everything going on, but the price too? There have been some good deals on here in the last few weeks. The only one I see not moving much, price wise, is the 2 Dr for obivious reasons.
If that was for an 08 then there is either a regional dealer incentive we don't know about or they had a trade in or they typed in the wrong price. Invoice is shown as $24,062 and even if the dealer gave up 100% of hold back you can't get the price down to $22,523 .
They simply honored their ad from the Sunday Boston Globe. The ad stated "$21,888 for EVERY 2008 Accord EX-L in stock". The destination fee was (as expected) not included in the ad price. So $21,888 + $635 = $22,523.
I did call other dealers to see if I can get something similar, because Boch Honda is about 60 miles from my house. The closest price was from Herb Chambers in Boston at $23,145. Their doc fee was also a bit higher, at $379.
I was fully prepared to walk out of their dealership if they didn't honor that ad. But they did. I did have a trade, but we started talking about it after we established the price on the new car (I know the rules...). The trade was a 1999 Toyota Camry with 140k miles, condition too poor for kbb.com to give me an online appraisal.
And they also matched my credit union for the interest rate, 5.2% for 60 months with Chase.
If they merely "match" your credit union rate, why not use your credit union anyway? It's just easier to deal with your own bank than signing up for an account with Citibank or any other finance company. One less statement and one less company to deal with for customer service, you can transfer funds between accounts to make payments etc.. It would make more sense if they beat your credit union rate rather than only matching it.
Because the credit union gave me what they call a "auto-loan check". Not a cashiers check. The dealer said if they take that "auto-loan check" they will have to wait a couple of days for it to clear. I didn't want to come back after 2-3 days to pick up the car, I wanted to do spot delivery. And I didn't feel like arguing with them because I fully expect the rates to go down even further. At which point I intend to re-finance with the credit union. It's DCU btw, great credit union. If I have the original loan from them, I cannot refinance when the rates go down. But if the loan is with Chase and the rate goes down 1 point in 6 months, I can re-finance. Their rates are great if the car is very new.
Thanks and know what you mean about future value. I do tend to keep cars for at least 5-8 yrs. Mainly because I do a lot of research beforehand. I like aspects about each of the mentioned cars and am now looking at prices. I realize the resale on Honda is unmatched but also can get something very similar from Mazda or Hyundai for 4-5000 less. The future value of that money saved upfront must be considered as well. I think over the length of time I am looking at, I am going to get the vehicle I really like as the 5yr or more ownership cost is probably going to be within 10% of each other.
You got a good price but too bad you had to waste time doing some serious negotiating with the dealer. I paid $25615 + tax and tags of an EX-L V6 without Navigation which was a little less then $2000. So my price was just about the equal to yours. I took delivery on 27 DEC 07.
Another item I bought was the 8 year 120,000 mile non-deductible Honda Care Warranty. I had located a Honda dealer in Rhode Island on the INTERNET who was selling that warranty for $995. I just did a search on EXTENDED CAR WARRANTY.
When closing the deal at my dealer in Baltimore I asked about the HONDA CARE Warranty. Initially the salesman pulled up a chart with various milages for both the $100 deductible and the non-deductible plans. His initial price for the plan I got was $1999.95. When I show him the printout from the RI Honda Dealer he said WOW that $995 was my dealer's cost. Almost immediately he came down to $1095 which I took. I intend to keep the car well beyond 120,000 miles.
If any here keep their cars long time it might be worth it to check out the Honda Care plan.
Sounds like they were lying to get you to take the financing they obtained. Every dealer I have been to has a way to deal with this without requiring you to wait for 3 days. One way is an "Either Or" contract, where they setup financing that allows you to drive off the lot and get your financing, but if you fail to get your own financing, the car remains on the contract you signed.
There are also other ways to do it especially if you buy the car during the hours your credit union is physically open and the dealer can call to verify the check. Some credit unions have electronic connections to local dealers and they don't even need to call.
However, if you think the rates at your credit union will fall and you will refinance later for the lower rate, what you did could make sense if there isn't a prepayment penalty from the finance company and the loan balance isn't higher than the car's value when you're ready to refinance it.
Must be some dealer money in your area if they can sell them at that price, Edmunds does not show anything for your area - but they only post what they get so it is not 100% accurate.
How much extra was the dealer's doc or prep fee?
You gotta love these dealers that don't include destination in their ads, by the way.
I have run into similar problems using a "blank check" from CapitalOne. They have two types - one that is good and one that requires approval. The latter is giving out to folks with poor credit and requires the dealer get the deal approved by the bank. When they fail to do so the bank will often not honor the check and the dealer is stuck.
What the credit union should have done is simply deposit the amount required into the buyer's checking account then they just write a check for the new car. Not only is this cool to do it makes things a lot easier.
In the dealers case, being present with a bank "draft" and not a check could mean a delay in getting their money - or not getting it at all. As you said, if the buyer had help firm I am sure they could have worked something out for "just in case" and used the draft. As long as there is no set up fee, simple interest, and no early pay off penalty then it really does not matter.
The dealer cannot be stuck if they verify by phone or electronically that it's a valid check for a pre-approved loan. Or they can use the either/or loan contract as a backup rather than saying, "You must take the financing we provide or else we'll make you wait three days for the auto loan check to clear before you can take the car home."
People do this every day. There are various alternatives as long as you buy the car during normal business hours (even Saturdays before the credit union phone line closes). A personal check can also bounce or be a fake check. Banks can electronically transfer funds to the dealer's account with no paper check at all.
Got a call back from Herb Chambers today. Before I got to tell them that I already bought the car, they said that there is a $1,000 incentive on the Accord from Honda. Didn't get into details: if it's national or regional, cash to customer or cash to dealer etc.
My credit union will not open the loan (give me the money) until I have a purchase and sale contract with the VIN of the car, signed by the dealer. What they gave me was a "treasurer auto loan check". Practically a blank check good for up to $25k, good only to buy a new car from a dealer.I used one in the past without problems but it was during business hours. This time it was 7PM and I had no desire to drive again 60 miles to the dealer.
Hello, I have been given a quote of $28,313 + $368 Doc fee, +$35 for a 90 day temp tag for a 08 EXL V6 4dr w/Nav. It comes with Splash guards and Window tent. I'm asking to have the Spoiler put on for $600. I think this is a reasonable deal, not the best but good, it is in Basque Red which has been difficult for me to find. I have a little bit of a rub in buying from the dealer in Tempe as they sprang on me a required sales tax of 5.6%, a 1.8% city tax & a .7% county tax. I live in Idaho (we have a 6% sales tax) and feel like thats all i should be payiing. Any help here on the tax case? I just happen to be coming through Phoenix on a trip which has put me in the city already and i'm willing to drive it back to Idaho but not sure i should have to pay the extra 2.1% difference (about $600). anyone with insights on this? I'm not scheduled to pick it up till the 28th of this month.
Hi, I am new to buying cars and am looking to buy a 2008 Honda Accord EX Sedan automatic 4D. The out the door price per the dealer is $23k. My credit score is a little over 700: Can someone please tell me what APR I must be looking at? And if the price is good?
"he said 28500 and we wrote 27250 and when he said No i can't do it, we got up to leave and somehow magically the agreed on 27500. so yes it does work."
I was offered 30K even OTD V6 coupe with NAV so this price is dooable folks!
i just bought a 2008 Accord Sedan V6 EX-L w Nav for $26,650. with dest comes to $27,285. i live in chicago and doc fees, taxes, licence and fees are pretty much the same at all dealerships. i financed the whole thing through Honda at 2.9% for 3 yrs. i was happy with the price and felt i got a good deal which overall makes for a positive buying experience. there are a lot of dealerships hungry to make a sale (at least here) which great for the diligent consumer. this is a great forum by the way, it helped me tremendously!
As I understand it, you should only pay the Tax for the state you live in, not where you bought the car. I did the same (Live in VA but bought in MD) and paid only the VA taxes.
Just like the prior poster said -- I believe you only pay the tax in the state in which you will license the car. I bought my car in Colorado - but live in Wyoming. I only paid Wyoming taxes - not Colorado Taxes. Also, it seems on average, that your "doc" fee is a little high. One more thing, I've never heard of paying for the temporary tag. Perhaps this is state-specific. But, make sure the dealership isn't charging you $35 just to print a temporary tag.
i just bought a 2008 Accord Sedan V6 EX-L w Nav for $26,650. with dest comes to $27,285. i live in chicago and doc fees, taxes, licence and fees are pretty much the same at all dealerships.
What does that mean? Destination charge is part of the price charged nationwide, so the price before destination charge doesn't matter much. Sales tax and license has to be the same since it is a mandatory government fee, but the dealers can ask whatever they want for doc fees. So, what is the doc fee you were charged?
but the dealers can ask whatever they want for doc fees You're wrong, he's right. Illinois has a maximum doc fee that dealers can charge. I think IL recently increased the maximum amount a dealer can charge for a doc fee to, I believe, $150. I also think the law also states that a dealer does not have to charge a doc fee at all but if it does, it has to charge the same doc fee to all buyers. So, in reality, each dealer has a set doc fee and, from my experience, they all pretty much charge the same and it is usually the max the state allows.
All states that I know of that use temp tags charge for them. Good dealers just eat this cost or include it in the mysterious "doc fee", other dealers graciously pass this cost along to the customer. In the case where a temp tag fee is charged, I would check the DMV / tax web page for the selling dealer's state and verify that the cost is as stated / charged. $35 for temp tag is highway robbery, no matter if perpetrated by the state or the deal - we pay $79 for tags for an entire year.
but the dealers can ask whatever they want for doc fees You're wrong, he's right. Illinois has a maximum doc fee that dealers can charge. I think IL recently increased the maximum amount a dealer can charge for a doc fee to, I believe, $150
In YOUR state he may be wrong, but many states - including mine and many others where I have car shopped - have no limit on dealer doc or prep fees. In those states, he is correct. In high end dealerships $500 or more is "normal" and in some large metro areas (Atlanta) it seems like every dealer charges several hundred in doc fees. Their excuse is always "the other dealers charge it" or some such.
Having a high doc fee does not preclude you from getting a good deal, as long as you take that into account. Our Pilot price from a GA dealer was down into the hold back even when you included the high dealer fee.
It was an odd post since he separated the cost of the destination charge that's the same for everyone in the country, but skipped the doc fee and instead posted that they all charge "pretty much" the same doc fee. If it was $150, he could have either simply said so or added it the price and said he paid $27,485 including doc fees.
Yes, I realize that. However, he was specifically correcting a poster from Chicago. I think most people that read these forums understand that there is a wide spectrum of "dealer doc fees" or whatever they may be called. Maybe the original poster was one of the few that doesn't. What I would really like to call these add ons by dealers is not printable here. It's just nice that some states have stepped up and regulated it to give one less thing to have to worry about in negotiations.
Agreed. I don't think he is totally familiar with the state laws and his comments were based on what he has experienced in a few car buying transactions. Not a big deal.
I got on the Holmes Honda e-mail list a few years ago when shopping for a new Honda. Never did any business with them, but they seem to have nice prices from time to time.
From an e-mail today:
ALL-NEW REDESIGNED 2008 HONDA ACCORD LX SEDAN BEST FAMILY SEDAN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION MSRP: $21,795 DEALER INVOICE COST: $19,815 HOLMES INTERNET PRICE: $19,215 60 MOS AT 3.9% APR: $353/MO
Good through March 24, the e-mail says.
Again, no connect to me nor have I ever purchased from them but I thought I would pass it along. I have no idea if they have a doc fee or not, etc, etc.
I am interested in the new Accord Coupe EXL 4cyl. Edmunds invoice is about $24,100 and with tax it comes out to be about $25,770. I understand dealers always add on doc fees and destination charges. What should I expect to pay OTD. I am in no rush to buy and there are 10 dealers within an hour from where I live, so I think I can negotiate. Does anyine think I can do better with the price? Thank you.
The other posters have said pretty much the same thing about the taxes as I would have. I just wanted to add that while the price you are quoted is a good price, it is not something that you would not be able to get it in your own state if the dealer is not cooperating with you. The Navi models are a little harder to locate but once you do that the price you have is a couple of hundred over invoice and the internet department would most likely match it. The splash guards are of not much cost to the dealer and the tint is about $100 in cost. The spoiler at $600 should be very close to get as well. Good luck.
It's not the dealers that add destination charges. It's the freight companies that haul the cars. They charge the car companies who pass these charges on to the dealers who pass them along to you.
Just like putting a stamp on an envelope.
EXL coupes have been in short supply so if the price is your main consideration you might want to at least consider a sedan.
i was charged $150.00 for my doc fee. in IL the doc fee is standard. all dealerships here will charge you 150. so:
"i live in chicago and doc fees, taxes, licence and fees are pretty much the same at all dealerships."
means just that. in IL there arent many variable outside of the cost of the car. (which makes car buying much easier btw) i know that destination is part of the cost, but ask a dealer his best price and ill bet you it wont include the destination. i recieved multiple price quotes, almost none of them included destination (because the price is lower). i posted the numbers there to help people compare prices (and so i wont get a post to ask if the price included destination or not)
OK, but it would have been more simple to just disclose that you paid an additional $150 for doc fee just as you listed the destination charge in the original post. Doc fee adds to the total purchase cost regardless to other dealers in the area charging the same fee. If you don't list it, people will wonder if you paid $45 or $450 and not everyone is in your area. In my area doc fee is limited to $55. In other areas, the dealers can charge whatever they feel like charging.
Just bought the above at a dealership in NW Suburbs of Chicago.
I was quoted $24950 2 days ago by the internet manager which included destination and I called to confirm that this was the correct price and that the car was available in the colors I preferred. He confirmed it was.
It was the lowest quote I received and I called/ emailed some other dealers in the area to see if they could beat that price and they said they couldn't/ wouldn't.
I went in today with the printed email with the price quote and thats the price I got. I was surprised that they didn't try to raise the price on me when I got there but it worked out well. Very good experience overall.
Pricing Breakdown-
Accord EX-L 4dr I-4 w/ Nav - $24950 (this also included mudflaps that the dealer had installed which I only found out the car had when I was about to drive it home. Didn't really want them but oh well....) :shades:
"... saw some older posts... a guy for a v6-L with nav for OTD $27K ..."
Don't believe everything you hear or read! That poster was asked for confirmation and follow-up and never did. $27k OTD (assuming otd includes tax and license) for an 08 V6 w/ Navi is not a reasonable price. maybe in 5 years...
The best V6 Navi price posted so far and actually resulted in actual sale is the $27300 plus TTL. For the I4 trim, take about $2k off.
Comments
This was a 2007 Accord -- yes? If it was an 08, what caliber of gun did you hold to their head . . .. that seems WAY to good to be true.
Good example of why the "prices paid" forum should only be a very rough guide to realistic pricing.
Dennis
I did call other dealers to see if I can get something similar, because Boch Honda is about 60 miles from my house. The closest price was from Herb Chambers in Boston at $23,145. Their doc fee was also a bit higher, at $379.
I was fully prepared to walk out of their dealership if they didn't honor that ad. But they did. I did have a trade, but we started talking about it after we established the price on the new car (I know the rules...). The trade was a 1999 Toyota Camry with 140k miles, condition too poor for kbb.com to give me an online appraisal.
And they also matched my credit union for the interest rate, 5.2% for 60 months with Chase.
It would make more sense if they beat your credit union rate rather than only matching it.
Another item I bought was the 8 year 120,000 mile non-deductible Honda Care Warranty. I had located a Honda dealer in Rhode Island on the INTERNET who was selling that warranty for $995. I just did a search on EXTENDED CAR WARRANTY.
When closing the deal at my dealer in Baltimore I asked about the HONDA CARE Warranty. Initially the salesman pulled up a chart with various milages for both the $100 deductible and the non-deductible plans. His initial price for the plan I got was $1999.95. When I show him the printout from the RI Honda Dealer he said WOW that $995 was my dealer's cost. Almost immediately he came down to $1095 which I took. I intend to keep the car well beyond 120,000 miles.
If any here keep their cars long time it might be worth it to check out the Honda Care plan.
Every dealer I have been to has a way to deal with this without requiring you to wait for 3 days. One way is an "Either Or" contract, where they setup financing that allows you to drive off the lot and get your financing, but if you fail to get your own financing, the car remains on the contract you signed.
There are also other ways to do it especially if you buy the car during the hours your credit union is physically open and the dealer can call to verify the check. Some credit unions have electronic connections to local dealers and they don't even need to call.
However, if you think the rates at your credit union will fall and you will refinance later for the lower rate, what you did could make sense if there isn't a prepayment penalty from the finance company and the loan balance isn't higher than the car's value when you're ready to refinance it.
Honda MSRP Price $26,495.00
Destination Charge Included
Additional Options
Internet Sale Price Inc. Coupon -$200 $23,736.33
Documentary Service Fee
$250
Title Fees $25.50
How much extra was the dealer's doc or prep fee?
You gotta love these dealers that don't include destination in their ads, by the way.
Dennis
What the credit union should have done is simply deposit the amount required into the buyer's checking account then they just write a check for the new car. Not only is this cool to do
In the dealers case, being present with a bank "draft" and not a check could mean a delay in getting their money - or not getting it at all. As you said, if the buyer had help firm I am sure they could have worked something out for "just in case" and used the draft. As long as there is no set up fee, simple interest, and no early pay off penalty then it really does not matter.
Dennis
People do this every day. There are various alternatives as long as you buy the car during normal business hours (even Saturdays before the credit union phone line closes).
A personal check can also bounce or be a fake check.
Banks can electronically transfer funds to the dealer's account with no paper check at all.
I have been given a quote of $28,313 + $368 Doc fee, +$35 for a 90 day temp tag for a 08 EXL V6 4dr w/Nav. It comes with Splash guards and Window tent. I'm asking to have the Spoiler put on for $600. I think this is a reasonable deal, not the best but good, it is in Basque Red which has been difficult for me to find. I have a little bit of a rub in buying from the dealer in Tempe as they sprang on me a required sales tax of 5.6%, a 1.8% city tax & a .7% county tax. I live in Idaho (we have a 6% sales tax) and feel like thats all i should be payiing. Any help here on the tax case?
I just happen to be coming through Phoenix on a trip which has put me in the city already and i'm willing to drive it back to Idaho but not sure i should have to pay the extra 2.1% difference (about $600). anyone with insights on this? I'm not scheduled to pick it up till the 28th of this month.
I am new to buying cars and am looking to buy a 2008 Honda Accord EX Sedan automatic 4D. The out the door price per the dealer is $23k. My credit score is a little over 700: Can someone please tell me what APR I must be looking at? And if the price is good?
I was offered 30K even OTD V6 coupe with NAV so this price is dooable folks!
What does that mean? Destination charge is part of the price charged nationwide, so the price before destination charge doesn't matter much.
Sales tax and license has to be the same since it is a mandatory government fee, but the dealers can ask whatever they want for doc fees. So, what is the doc fee you were charged?
You're wrong, he's right. Illinois has a maximum doc fee that dealers can charge. I think IL recently increased the maximum amount a dealer can charge for a doc fee to, I believe, $150. I also think the law also states that a dealer does not have to charge a doc fee at all but if it does, it has to charge the same doc fee to all buyers. So, in reality, each dealer has a set doc fee and, from my experience, they all pretty much charge the same and it is usually the max the state allows.
Dennis
You're wrong, he's right. Illinois has a maximum doc fee that dealers can charge. I think IL recently increased the maximum amount a dealer can charge for a doc fee to, I believe, $150
In YOUR state he may be wrong, but many states - including mine and many others where I have car shopped - have no limit on dealer doc or prep fees. In those states, he is correct. In high end dealerships $500 or more is "normal" and in some large metro areas (Atlanta) it seems like every dealer charges several hundred in doc fees. Their excuse is always "the other dealers charge it" or some such.
Having a high doc fee does not preclude you from getting a good deal, as long as you take that into account. Our Pilot price from a GA dealer was down into the hold back even when you included the high dealer fee.
Dennis
If it was $150, he could have either simply said so or added it the price and said he paid $27,485 including doc fees.
It's just nice that some states have stepped up and regulated it to give one less thing to have to worry about in negotiations.
From an e-mail today:
ALL-NEW REDESIGNED 2008
HONDA ACCORD LX SEDAN
BEST FAMILY SEDAN
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
MSRP: $21,795
DEALER INVOICE COST: $19,815
HOLMES INTERNET PRICE: $19,215
60 MOS AT 3.9% APR: $353/MO
Good through March 24, the e-mail says.
Again, no connect to me nor have I ever purchased from them but I thought I would pass it along. I have no idea if they have a doc fee or not, etc, etc.
Dennis
2008 Honda Accord Lx-P Auto Sedan
Total all fees included (and listed below)
Selling price $20595 (inc handsfree link, wheel locks and mudguards)
Doc Fee $55
Sales Tax $1497.13 (ventura county registration)
DMV fees $196
State Tire Fee $8.75
---------------------------------
Total $22351.88 (OTD)
Just like putting a stamp on an envelope.
EXL coupes have been in short supply so if the price is your main consideration you might want to at least consider a sedan.
"i live in chicago and doc fees, taxes, licence and fees are pretty much the same at all dealerships."
means just that. in IL there arent many variable outside of the cost of the car. (which makes car buying much easier btw) i know that destination is part of the cost, but ask a dealer his best price and ill bet you it wont include the destination. i recieved multiple price quotes, almost none of them included destination (because the price is lower). i posted the numbers there to help people compare prices (and so i wont get a post to ask if the price included destination or not)
If you don't list it, people will wonder if you paid $45 or $450 and not everyone is in your area.
In my area doc fee is limited to $55. In other areas, the dealers can charge whatever they feel like charging.
I was quoted $24950 2 days ago by the internet manager which included destination and I called to confirm that this was the correct price and that the car was available in the colors I preferred. He confirmed it was.
It was the lowest quote I received and I called/ emailed some other dealers in the area to see if they could beat that price and they said they couldn't/ wouldn't.
I went in today with the printed email with the price quote and thats the price I got. I was surprised that they didn't try to raise the price on me when I got there but it worked out well. Very good experience overall.
Pricing Breakdown-
Accord EX-L 4dr I-4 w/ Nav - $24950
(this also included mudflaps that the dealer had installed which I only found out the car had when I was about to drive it home. Didn't really want them but oh well....) :shades:
Doc fee - $150
Title/ License - $143
Tax - $2200
OTD- $27443
I saw some older posts... a guy for a v6-L with nav for OTD $27K
I think is lot better deal than yours...and his posts is from chicago too...
ouch!!
Don't believe everything you hear or read! That poster was asked for confirmation and follow-up and never did. $27k OTD (assuming otd includes tax and license) for an 08 V6 w/ Navi is not a reasonable price. maybe in 5 years...
The best V6 Navi price posted so far and actually resulted in actual sale is the $27300 plus TTL. For the I4 trim, take about $2k off.
$21,200 for EX auto, and $22,850 for EX-L auto, destination fee included
Doc: $55.
I will keep you guys posted once I finish with something in the weekend.
Hope this helps.
What dealership did you get your exl from?