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Hyundai Elantra Accessories and Modifications

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Comments

  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    No, no, no.... "your" knowledge is better; mine is just easier to get to. :P
  • scottradzscottradz Member Posts: 9
    Thanks for the info doohickie. But i do have a couple more questions if you don't mind. I was thinking of doing this myself. I'm NOT a car guy at all, but i'd like to start learning, so this is pretty intimidating. Here goes -

    1) Do you have to disconnect the battery before taking off the dash fascia and removing the power connections?

    2) Are the wiring harnesses pretty much standard, or am I going to have to matchup, splice and crimp all the wires in the dash?

    3) I see some online places also try selling a mounting kit and other things specific to the elantra. What additional equipment is needed when purchasing unit that is the correct size for the Elantra?

    4) any other helpful hints? I guess I'm most worried about the wire splicing out in the car for a long time during the hot summer.

    Thanks
  • mrearlmrearl Member Posts: 8
    I'm kinda like scottradz--I am a car guy but BITD when there was two speaker wires, a power wire and an antenna [to date myself; some were 6volt] the new stuff intimidates me with all the computor controls and I don't want to screw anything up. So far the dealer and everyone else says "it oughta fit" but no one has ever came out with a positive yes that they had done it and its a piece of cake--a simple plug and play like it looks to be. All I will be doing is adding a music source [the CD] contained in the same package.Logic says the wired outputs should all be the same. Hard to believe that with all the years the current Elantra has been out that no one has actually made this swap--am I the only doityourself cheapskate with a tin ear? Both inputs on how to remove the fascia were helpful but didn't see the two screws above the tach & speedo in the Hyundai link. Looks like when you pull the fascia, some items may come with it while others remain fixed to the dash? Any problem with breaking the snapin connectors that hold the fascia in place? I'm remembering clipins that hold doorpanels on from days past where they would sometimes break.Just bought a Sonata headunit on Ebay so guess I'll find out if it fits [and works] Looks like a Sante Fe unit from the same era might also fit.
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    1) Do you have to disconnect the battery before taking off the dash fascia and removing the power connections?
    Always a good idea to disconnect the battery when doing this kind of stuff. That said, I rarely do it unless I'm doing actual wiring mods. But especially if you're new at this, it is the smart thing to do.

    2) Are the wiring harnesses pretty much standard, or am I going to have to matchup, splice and crimp all the wires in the dash?

    If you are changing it out for another Hyundai unit, chances are good it will just plug into the back of the new unit with no changes. If you get an aftermarket unit, they usually come with a harness that has a connector that goes into the aftermarket unit at one end and stripped wire ends at the other end. You can be a similar piece (an adapter harness), with a connector that connects to the connector in your car, and just twist the appropriate wires together. The stereo and the adapter harness should have enough information with them to make sure you connect everything right (i.e., left speaker hi to left speaker hi, always on power to always on power, etc.)

    3) I see some online places also try selling a mounting kit and other things specific to the elantra. What additional equipment is needed when purchasing unit that is the correct size for the Elantra?

    You can do the basic mounting of a head unit with what comes in the car. If you buy a single DIN head unit (with a chassis the size of the original OEM stereo), the opening in the dash fascia may be too small to include the bezel that comes with an aftermarket unit, but large enough to leave a gap around the detachable faceplate. There are several options here:

    1. If you don't worry about the untrimmed area, it will look like this:

    image

    2. Trim out the unfinished area. I had some foam tape that was about 1/16" thick which I put on the perimeter of the head unit *before* putting the fascia and faceplate on. The foam was pressed under the fascia out the outer edge and when I put the head unit face on, it compressed the foam slightly on the inner perimeter. When I had it this way, it looked like the following picture. Other things besides foam could be used including electrical tape, black construction paper or cardboard.

    image

    3. Buy the 00271-84004 OEM unit (from a Hyundai dealer, ~$40; order the part number I provided). My Pioneer unit fit perfectly except that there are small tabs that stick out of the unit (I think for security purposes) that I bent over... then it fit perfectly. It looks like this:

    image

    4. There is a more affordable OEM option (from a Hyundai dealer, ~$20) that trims out the area but omits the door- it's part number 00273-83000. The doorless kit looks like this when it's installed:

    image

    4) any other helpful hints? I guess I'm most worried about the wire splicing out in the car for a long time during the hot summer.

    If you buy the adapter harness, you don't have to modify your car's wiring at all; it is all done by making an adapter between the car and the new head unit. When I splice, I twist each connection, then wrap each connection by itself with electrical tape. Once they're all wrapped, I either wrap them with tape to hold them all together, or put a nylon tie strap around them. If you do this, it won't come unwrapped. You'll be fine.

    You can do it!
  • scottradzscottradz Member Posts: 9
    Thanks man, I knew you'd come thru. :)

    I'm not sure of the rules here with with respect to posting specific retail sites, etc... So I hope you don't mind but I'm going to send you a PM for a very specific question or two.

    Thanks again.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    I'm not exactly sure what you might be wanting to post, but the Rules of the Road (link on the left) will probably answer your questions. Or you can email me if you'd like.
  • jdalton27jdalton27 Member Posts: 5
    I am goin to be replacing my stock unit with a Sony CDX-S2000. Can someone tell me how to remove the stock unit and where is a good place to get the required kit/harness?

    thanks in advance,

    Jeremy
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    To get to the head unit, remove the dash fascia. It's a little involved the first time through, but it's really not that bad. Remove the ash tray and take out the two screws behind it; remove the two screws in the instrument cluster bezel above the speedo & tach. Then, starting at the bottom near the ash tray, pull the dash fascia off (it's held in by pop fasteners) until you get all the way around to the end by the driver's door. There are several connectors for the clock and switches and stuff; you need to unplug those. They all have a tab that needs to be pushed down to release the connector. Once you get all that done, you have easy access to the stereo; it's held in with six screws. You may also want to look at this post.
  • tsgeiseltsgeisel Member Posts: 352
    If I buy my stereo from a big-box store, are they going to have problems removing my stock stereo from my '05 GT? Or is this something they're going to be fairly used to, with more complicated vehicles?

    Also, I'm not sure how much I like the antenna. Are there better and smaller ones available? Where would I look to buy one? Crutchfield.com? Anywhere else?
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    Big box store should have no problem with a straight-out replacement; you may want to look at my earlier post about trimming out the opening though, so you know what you're getting into. If you have a screwdriver and some electrical tape, I would highly recommend doing it yourself.

    As for antenna, I know of one shorty antenna some people have tried with poor results as far as reception goes. I know of one guy, though, that simply wrapped the little ball end in tape, pulled it off with pliers, cut his stock antenna down, and put the little ball on the end. He still and good reception *and* a stylishly short antenna.
  • 5port5port Member Posts: 395
    Universal Replacement Antenna from Pepboys $15. Wire wrapped around a 17" fiberglass rod sealed in black pvc. Reception is very good:

    http://tinyurl.com/bttcg
  • tsgeiseltsgeisel Member Posts: 352
    Are there pros or cons to leaving the fog lights on all the time? I don't think I have to worry about battery drain, but is the lifetime on them perhaps worse than regular headlights? Are they more likely to burn out faster?

    Also, are there any problems inherent in getting those Xenon/blue bulbs installed?
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    One of the cons is that it is illegal in some states to have fog lights on when they are not needed. A friend I was driving with got pulled over by WI DPS a few years ago for having his fog lamps on on a clear night. He got off with a warning.
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    The fog lights, I think are a pain the butt to change out. So anythign that would shorten the bulb life would mean you have to change them out more often.

    They are basically equal in current draw to the headlights.
  • bodman75bodman75 Member Posts: 5
    True - you can stick with Fram or others, but remember, you have to replace those ALL the time. By the time you spend the $10 or so for other filters, you could have just spent the $40 for the K & N 1 time and you never need to replace them(just rinse out and put back in).
    I just bought a K & N FIlter for $45 and am very happy with it. Increased Horsepower, covered for life, never needs replaced!!!
  • 1racefan1racefan Member Posts: 932
    "Increased Horsepower, covered for life, never needs replaced!!!"

    Increased horsepower??? I think I would have to see that on a dyno before buying one. I have read too many things that say the increase in hp is miniscule, if any. Even if it incresed the hp in the Elantra by 2-4, as a driver, you'd never notice.
  • bodman75bodman75 Member Posts: 5
    Hey, whatever works for ya!!! Everybody's vehicle has a different reaction to new things. Mine, for example, runs ALOT better with the Bosch Platinum +4 Plugs and the K&N Filter, where yours may not. But I'll tell you this, I would rather spend $45 1 time than twice that amount throught the years on other brands. All I can say is try it and if you don't notice a difference, oh well, you still NEVER have to replace it and it won't hurt you any....
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    Any recommendations on aftermarket window tinting? Anything to watch out for (warranty, installation, whatever)? How to pick a good shop? Anything specific to the Elantra hatch I need to know? Any problems with window regulators? I think tinting will be my birthday present this year, so I gotta figure this out.
  • 1racefan1racefan Member Posts: 932
    The only thing I can really comment on is how to find a good shop - -

    Last month, I decided to fix up my parents' '06 Chevy HHR as an early Christmas gift from me and my wife. That is a vehicle that I have always thought was just screaming to be modified. I decided to do a "plus 1" size increase to the wheels and tires, change to high performance tires, and to add a billett grill. I also ended up removing all of the stock Chevy emblems and replaced them with emblems from vintage Chevies (that I ordered from a classic Chevy restoration shop) to complete the retro look of the HHR.

    Well, I haven't done anything like this to a car in several years, so I had to look for a shop. I went on line, and found a hand full of car customizing shops in my area. One Saturday (I picked Saturday because these places are hopping with customers on Saturday), I drove around to a few, and just browsed their displays, and observed. Most of these shops did everything from window tinting, audio/video, wheels/tires/suspension, all the way to superchargers and exhaust. After spending about 15 minutes at each shop (mainly looking at displays of wheels and things), and listening to the sales guys interact with customers and each other, I was able to either scratch them off the list or keep them on. I then had my list narrowed down to about 2 shops that were possibilities. I then asked them if they had any cars on site that they had customized that I could look at. Both did, and both appeared to have done quality work. I also at that point asked them some technical questions (some that I already knew the answers to as a test), and both gave knowledgable answers. I then ended up deciding based on price (both sold the same brands pretty much).

    My point to all of this is that many of us look at cars as being "our babies" - I even treated my parents' car like this while I was fixing it up. Whenever I am having anything done to a car, I want to feel very comfortable with the shop that is doing the work. The route I just described for picking that shop has always worked out for me. I know a lot of people will just tell you to get a referral from someone you trust, but I have found that even people that I really trust that have had things done to cars, often are not as picky when it comes to cars as I am - I still like to see for myself.

    In terms of the quality of the tint. You could simply ask which brand(s) they use, and then research them on line yourself. Lastly, you will want to find out what the legal limit is for your state (if any), so you don't run into problems at inspection time.
  • lightfootfllightfootfl Member Posts: 442
    You brought up an interesting point, tinted windows/warranty.
    I certainly wouldn't think they would affect things, but with all of the lawyer-ese loopholes, absolutely nothing would surprise me. Hmmmmm ;)
  • 1racefan1racefan Member Posts: 932
    I think he may have been referring to the warranty of the tint itself. In other words, if it starts turning blue, or peeling after a year, will the shop replace it.
  • lightfootfllightfootfl Member Posts: 442
    Thanks, I guess I wasn't thinking along those lines ... must be one of my senior moments. ;)
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    I got my tint done. Through someone from our local board, DFWHyundais.com, I found a tinter that gave me a decent price on Solar Gard HP Charcoal, a decent midrange tint. I ended up saving a third off what I higher end tint would be and it still has a lifetime warranty.

    I got 35% tint on the side windows and 20% in the rear.
  • 1racefan1racefan Member Posts: 932
    WELL....show us some pics!!!!
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    Hold on, hold on... they'll be up soon. I took some this afternoon, but we had rain today and the lighting wasn't too hot.
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    Like I said, the lighting for the After pics wasn't the best:

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  • 1racefan1racefan Member Posts: 932
    Looks good. Even with the front windows being a lighter tint, it is hard to tell (from the pictures anyway) that it is ligher - it all looks very uniform.

    (Off Subject) - The second picture down brought back memories of my first (and only) trip to Texas 2 years ago. We went to visit my sister-in-law in The Colony,TX, and the one thing that stood out to me from her neighborhood were the privacy fences around all of the backyards - personally I like the idea, as many of my neighbors now, I really don't care to see :surprise:
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    Having lived up north where chain link is still common, and down south where the privacy fences are the norm, I prefer chain link. It may be frustrating when you have a bad neighbor, but I would rather know my neighbors. It's much easier to get to the know them over the back fence that the infrequent times you and your neighbor are both out in the front yard (because usually that's when you're coming or going and don't have time to chat).
  • tsgeiseltsgeisel Member Posts: 352
    Looks good. I'm not used to seeing a car that has tinting, but isn't the maximum black possible.

    Sadly out here in CA, where the front windows can't be tinted (maybe only not more than 5% or something), it'd look kinda goofy to have the back windows tinted, but I'd always thought in terms of something heavy. Perhaps a lighter one like you have would work...
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    In the constant effort to Pimp My Ride, I installed a woodgrain dash kit. I got a good deal on it- about 1/3 the retail cost- through someone on another forum.

    A couple before & after shots.

    Before:
    image

    After:
    image

    Before:
    image

    After:
    image

    I also put on a front strut bar; makes the steering a little more confident. The bar was only $60; it's OEM Kia, designed for the Spectra. While it improves steering feel, it does touch the underside of the hood and also if I give the car a lot of gas while in reverse, the engine hops up a bit and rattles against the bar. I will keep a strut bar, but I am looking into alternate designs. There are several out there for the Elantra, but none of them is perfect; they all have clearance issues, interfere with the cruise control module, or something.
    image
  • 1racefan1racefan Member Posts: 932
    Woodgrain looks good.

    Just curious - what method do you use to clean your engine bay (it looks really good). I typically take a little degreaser, dilute it in a pail of water, and wipe mine down by hand with an assorment of rags and brushes.
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    My secret? Armor All. I just basically dust it with a rag with Armor All once in a while. It's a mild degreaser I think, plus it leaves a nice shine behind. If I'm going to a meet or something, I spray it with tire shine to dress it up.

    The other thing is that I'm in Texas which means no road salt. And since I've had the car, a year and a half, I've never let it get very dirty.

    Since I started getting into this whole car thing, I joined some other forums and stuff, including a Taurus forum since my wife has a 2003 Taurus. I looked under the hood and decided it was way to dusty/dirty under there, and gave it the Armor All treatment and it looks pretty good too:

    Before:
    image

    After:
    image

    The other benefit of just wiping everything down is you get to know the engine. I hadn't spent very much time with my wife's car, but when I cleaned under the hood I found two or three little things that needed attention, including a cracked windshield washer hose.

    I also have a 1995 Escort for my son to drive. I tried the Armor All thing under the hood of that car and..... it's time for degreaser. :P
  • 1racefan1racefan Member Posts: 932
    I am in the same boat as you - I am in NC, and we don't have much snow to speak of, nor do we have salt to deal with.

    I have an '03 Mitsubishi Outlander that I have stayed on top of since I bought it (bought it with 10K miles on it, now has 45K), and the engine bay looks brand new. I wipe down the engine bay in my wife's '06 Element every 2 weeks, so it still looks new as well.

    Unfortunately with the Elantra, I didn't start cleaning the engine bay regularly until it had 50K miles on it. I do it by hand, but it still doesn't get quite as clean as I would like. I though about misting the engine bay with a degreaser, then hosing it down - but I am afraid to hose the engine bay down with all of the connectors I have seen throughout the engine bay.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    I had my '01 Elantra's engine professionally cleaned before I sold it last year. (It had 5.5 years and six Minnesota winters of crud on it.) It looked really good, but the check engine light came on for several days (and went out by itself) afterwards. I talked with the service writer at the Hyundai dealership about the check engine light, and he said, "You should never wash an engine!!" That's the first time I've had a check engine light come on after washing an engine. Oh well. The car ran fine afterwards, even with the check engine light on, and had run fine since for the new owner.
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    I've used Black Magic 2-In-1 Engine on my Elantra when it was still relatively new and I was trying to keep it super clean (I found just wiping it down does a decent job). You spray it on a warm, not hot, engine with the engine off, let it sit a few minutes, then *lightly* spray it with a hose (on mist setting). Let it sit a few minutes, then start up the engine and any pooled water evaporates. I didn't cover any electrical connections or anything, but I tried not to spray on them either.

    image
  • mysticsoulmysticsoul Member Posts: 12
    hey there all..

    I'm new to this forum, have a Hyundai Elantra 01, 4dr sedan.
    I'll be grateful if anyone could help me with this, the windshield washer doesnt work anymore, I had a look at it, its not the water being empty, or the pipes being clogged, so I think its the windshield-washer motor, cause I dont hear the motor sound anymore, any idea where the motor is located or how do I access it? short on money so i'll have to fix it myself.

    Thanx
  • fushigifushigi Member Posts: 1,459
    The easiest thing to check would be the fuse that controls it. The fuse panels are shown in the owners manual. If the fuses are fine I'd say to just start tracing the hoses from the dispenser backwards. You'll hit the washer fluid pump before you get to the reservoir. Sorry I can't be more specific; my wife's not home yet so I can't check her Elantra.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • mysticsoulmysticsoul Member Posts: 12
    Thanx for the reply...

    Well i cheked the fuse, it was the motor, cuase it wudnt make any noise..and is at the bottom of the washed fliud tank,the worst part is, i cant pull it or slide off from the top,found a high pavement and pulled it out from below. the worst part is that the replacement i found has a different power socket so now to friggin go down and try to re wire it.
  • cyberfybercyberfyber Member Posts: 14
    Hello,

    I've been searching around for the Bumper Covers on the 2007 Elantra. Best I've found is the 2006. Anyone have any idea as to if/when someone will come up with one for the 2007? I'm referring to the Front &/or Rear Bumpers.

    Another thing is, I came across a car the other day driving ahead of me in slow traffic. Funny thing is how they had a rubber mat hanging out their trunk hooked by some sort of tape or something. We could only fathom they were trying to protect their bumpers, or hide something we couldn't see. Regardless, I thought it was a neat idea, although why they'd need it while driving I wouldn't know.

    The method to my madness? Well, we'd found a deep enough scratch on the corner of my brand new Elantra's rear bumper yesterday. Some numb nut I guess doesn't know how to park or leave a parking area safely. I know, I know. Scratches and such are inevitable but dang!
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Maybe that other car was going to or just did haul something long that stuck out over the bumper, and the owner put the mat there to protect it.

    I've never heard of a rear "bra". I guess it would be called something else, though. ;)

    I don't see any bras out there for a 2007 Elantra, but another option is the clear protective film "bras". They are barely noticeable, and you don't need to worry about working around them. They are available for the 2007 Elantra, e.g. www.xpel.com has them.
  • cyberfybercyberfyber Member Posts: 14
    Hmmm, thanks backy. I'll definitely take a look into that.

    I'd mentioned the rear end covers since I had seen it online for some models including the Accent and others.
  • dria24dria24 Member Posts: 32
    Hi I'm new to this site, just purchased 2001 Elantra GLS, just yesterday the airbag light came on. I changed both fuses, the one that seems to be directly affected is the 10amp (2nd one). Is there anything else I can do before taking it to mechanic or dealer. thanks

    Is there anything else I need to be aware of
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    Yes.... check the connectors under the seats. Sometimes they can come loose or the wires get pulled.
  • dria24dria24 Member Posts: 32
    thanks will do, but what would the connectors look like? Are there more than one? would this apply to both seats and the rear one also.
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    All safety system (air bag) harnesses have yellow on them. Look for wires and connectors with yellow. They are only on the front seats.
  • oracle_of_rockoracle_of_rock Member Posts: 58
    A couple of quick questions about the mud guards/all-weather floor mats that install on an 07 Elantra SE.

    Are the mud guards a self-install situation or should you have the dealer do it? The reason I ask is because my SE has the larger wheels/tires and the rear wheel well space seems very limited. Since the front wheel turn, they shouldn't be much of a problem.

    Do the width of the rear mud guards equal the width of the optional tires or are the mud guards narrower than the option tires?

    Does anyone have any photos of an 07 Elantra w/the mud guards?

    Has anyone run across all-weather mats that look OEM but don't cost what the OEMs do?

    Thanks -- Rick
  • dria24dria24 Member Posts: 32
    I want to say thank you we did what you said and one of the connectors was loose, because we had put a deodorant under the driver's seat.
  • dria24dria24 Member Posts: 32
    Can someone tell how do you get the "sap" off the front car window, even when you take the car to the car wash it doesn't come off. We have tried car wash cleaners and none seem to work well. any suggestions.

    What kind of tires should we consider for our 2001 elantra GLS? We need to get the two front tires replace, anyone
    , thanks.
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    Look for a product at the auto parts store called "bug & tar remover". It should take the sap off as well. If you get it on your paint, though, you should wax the car afterward (because it removes wax as well).

    As for tires, everyone has their own preferences. Popular tires for the Elantra include Cooper Lifeliner SLEs, Falken Ziex ZE512s and Kumho Ecstas.
  • dria24dria24 Member Posts: 32
    Thanks for the Bug & Tar remover its working fine.
    2001 elantra gls, want to change front brake pads on car, what racket sockets or other tools are needed to change and replace the front brake pads.

    Also on the car the front headlights covers are plastic, how do we take them off and either replace or clean them. \
    much thanks
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