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Chrysler Sebring Problems and Solutions
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Regards:
Oldengineer
Had same problem....your low on coolant....your radiator cap leaks and you lose coolant very slowly...but the line to the overflow tank is plugged so you think you have plenty of coolant.....replace cap $4.75.....and clear blockage in line and top off at radiator....been 2 years and hasn't reoccurred
jim
satuday 1/14/2004 while on driveing at about 60 mph
the motor with out warning blew ,sending a rod thru
the block , now I was told this is a problem with
2.7 chysler motors
http://www.autosafety.org/article.php?scid=37&did=960
try this link on the 2.7, don't know if it is what you are looking for.
Thanks for your time.
I also only get heat when the car is only moving, not at idle. The head gaskets were done a few weeks ago at the dealer, and there is no foam in the oil or coolant smelling exhaust. The temp guage stays steady 4 lines up from bottom.
Could this be a thermostat issue or something bigger?
Intermittent stalling, sometimes at high speeds and sometimes at low speeds. One other symptom is that while it stalled on the highway last time, I realized that the gas pedal lost all resistance. It almost felt like the return spring had been removed or broken. The pedal returned to the up position when I let off of it, but it had no friction or resistance.
Once we sat for a couple of minutes, the car started right up and drove for another few hundred miles before it stalled again.
Any other ideas on where to look?
We purchased a 1995 sebring used, and have so far just have only put minor repairs in. Untill now sometimes my car does over 60 mph but only on a cold day in hell. I have had the car for 3 mos and I have gotten over 60 mph's only twice!!!! Any info on what the problem could be????
Just info to everyone, I've been reading here a while.
If you buy a used car you need to give it a serious tune up. You have no idea what kind negligence the car has had to date. By "serious tune up" I mean change all the fluids, all the filters, plugs and all ignition cables, all belts including the timing belt, pcv valve, clean the battery terminals and the grounding posts, etc. If you can do the work yourself, we are talking about $400 in parts and a few days work. It will pay for itself 10 times over.
dhudson, I believe this would solve your problem as well.
Intermittent stalling, sometimes at high speeds and sometimes at low speeds. One other symptom is that while it stalled on the highway last time, I realized that the gas pedal lost all resistance. It almost felt like the return spring had been removed or broken. The pedal returned to the up position when I let off of it, but it had no friction or resistance.
Once we sat for a couple of minutes, the car started right up and drove for another few hundred miles before it stalled again.
Any other ideas on where to look?
NUMBER: 18-020-01, Engine - Rough Idle, Hard Start, or Start & Stall
I've no idea why the pedal lost resistance or if there is a corolation. I would have to look under my own car to see.
St_adman
JH
I would be more inclinded to think it is an EGR Valve before an O2 sensor, just my two cents.
Thanks
Regards:
Is that the problem you are having or is yours cranking and not turning over.
Occasionally, when I start driving, a high pitched whine comes from the front wheels. It's not the brakes -- this it totally speed-based. With a cold engine, the noise starts around 25 mph and gets louder the faster I drive. Taking my foot off the gas and/or applying the brake does not stop or change the whine -- only falling back below 25 mph stops the noise. The more warmed up the engine gets, the faster I need to go before the whine starts. Eventually (after driving/idling for a few minutes) the whine disappears altogether.
This only seems to happen in the Spring and Fall, and not all the time then, either. Rotating the tires did not fix. Can't take it to a shop, because by the time I get there, the car is warmed up enough not to make the noise -- and I don't feel like leaving it there overnight, just in case the car would decide to not to whine the following morning.
I can live with the whine, but just want to make sure there is not something more serious going on. Now, the whine sounds just like when you squeeze the neck of a balloon to let air out with a -- high pitched whine.
Does this sound at all familiar to anyone? And what does it mean?
Thanks--
--R
This is a close tolerance engine, it may be ugly.