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Chrysler Sebring Problems and Solutions



  • kevin14kevin14 Posts: 1
    Hi all. My father purchased a 1998 Chrysler Sebring brand new. He recently purchased a Dodge Durango and wants to sell this gorgeous car to me for a couple grand. There is only 1 problem. At least once or twice a month, it dies or just simply won't start. We have had 3 trusted garages look at it and cannot find anything. I want to buy this but I need to find out whats wrong? Any suggestions?

  • :confuse: Both front doors - top rear 'clip' seems to be worn out. Panel pops off in this area whenever door is closed with any amount of force. :confuse:

    Anyone else with this problem, and is there a reasonable fix for a do-it-yourselfer?

  • Jackb1:
    A common problem with these cars is carbon buildup on the EGR valve. The valve remains open and introduces too much exhaust gas back to the cylinders. It is not noticable at speed, only at idle. EGR valves can be had for around $70 at Kragens and are not all that difficult to replace. Before you spend the money tho, remove the valve and clean it (soak it) with carburator cleaner. Be careful not to get the electronics wet. Let us know how it goes! Let it dry & reinstall. I think you will see an improvement.
    Let us know how it goes & Good luck!
  • atergiaatergia Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 sebring lxi and ill be driving down the road and all of the sudden the rpms will drop to 0 as if the car stalls then will restart. Everything else is still on like the radio and every thing and the local mechanic said that without the check engine light coming on its hard to tell whats wrong so i was wondering if anyone else has had this problem and if anyone may possibly know whats wrong with it
  • Hi, I have the same problem with my 1996 sebring. The power and anything is working, but sometimes it will not start for a couple of hours. Please Help!!!! :(
  • Yikes. Well, before I get too nervous, I have one more thing I need to try. I just finished putting the whole thing back together because when I replaced my thermostat, the o-ring on the radiator drain plug broke. I couldn't pull the plug where it was, so I had to pull the radiator to get it out.

    I just got it back together and added coolant directly into the neck leading up to the radiator cap, and I checked the reservoir. Then I drove it for a while, but it got hot again. When I stopped the car, I saw the reservoir showed a bit low, but above "add" - And I didn't see any apparent leaks. I added a bit more fluid to the reservoir, but my question is this. Haynes and Chilton say to bleed the system. This model is not equipped with a bleed valve that I know of. How do you bleed the darn thing? I'm wondering if this is my problem. I guess next on my list is either the water pump or the radiator core is blocked or something. But I know it's not a leak, the thermostat or the radiator cap.

    I hate cars.
  • Whoo hoo - my neighbor's buddy across the inlet from where we live is a Mopar guy. He's going to see if he can get him to take a look...
  • my sister-in-law is having the same problem out of her 97 Lxi, she has changed several different sensors with no results. If you find any results from yours please let me know. :lemon:
  • Did you get the needed repairs? I have same car with same problems. After about 6-10 minutes the tach will come up as well as the Odometer. Then once I turn the car off for a few minutues and restart, it disappears again.
  • I was wondering if anyone has instructions on how to program the remote to 2005 sebring. I bought a vehicle and received one remote and I am in the process of buying another, but need the directions of how to program it.

    I appreciate all the help
  • I have the '97 JX, but the same resolution my apply. I had the same issue. I bought a thermostat, radiator and water pump. Turned out to be a loose timing belt. I know it sounds crazy, but the water pump is turned by the timing belt. I tightened the tension pulley and resolved the issue. It took a full Saturday to fix it.
  • problem my 96 sebring jus started to act up when i was driving it just died an when i started it back up the rpm were revin for no reason i stopped into the gas station an shut it off for like 10 minutes started it back up an it was revin up to 1 - 1/2 and it continued i drove it down the street to my house an it was jerking alittle bit and hard to drive an was starting to die out...i dont know why can any1 please fill me in with any solutions or jus tell me wut it is an how much...thanx
  • I have a 98 LXi and i was having the same exact problem and did everything your doing. Maybe this will help. After checking the fuse for the radiator fan we discovered it was shorted out, so it was replaced drove the car for a while and was still getting hot. Turns out the fuse will be ok for about 1 minute or 2 then it will blow out. My problem was the radiator fan motor was bad, that was causing my fuse to short out. you have to make sure the main fan is actually working because you might be looking at it from a certain angle and it looks like its on but it might not be. Getting a new radiator fan is your best bet however if your gonna try buying a brand new its goin to cost about $300-400 because they sell you all the components that go with it that you dont really need if it just your fan. i got mine from a junk yard for 80 bucks and now my temp has stayed normal.
  • My rear window defroster stopped working I have a 2002Sebring GTC convertible with 25K miles on it, is this still factory covered? the fuses are all ok. I also lost the power on my fan at all speeds less than max which i guess is the blower motor resistor switch. Anybody solve the rear defroster problem?
  • Same thing happened to my 2004 Sebring LX convertible last winter. Took it in for repair and was told the connection broke between the....(now I'm not mechanically inclined so keep that in mind.......) little connection box on the rear windo and the wire that goes across the window. Mine was under warranty so I'm not sure how much it cost.

    I think mine could have been loose and when I washed my car at the carwash the pressure from the power washer could have cause the break. I'm extra carefull now when I use the power washer to use just low pressure on the rear window.
  • Well, I know my fan is running - it's running all the time! Anyway, a buddy of mine called his Mopar friend who said that the system is probably "air bound" - I am having a heck of a time figuring out how to bleed this thing. I'd like to find some sort of coupling I can put on the system that has maybe a bleed valve on it - because this tihng does NOT come with a bleed valve that I can see. OR - I know of one case where you can get a radiator cap with a funnel attached that you can use as an airlock to "burp" your system and get the air out. Does anyone know of any sort of equipment like this? I'm having a hard time finding something. I might just see if I can engineer something.
  • I haven't had that problem with my 2004 but did have to have the top motor replaced because it would stall out half way up. I'm having problems with idling rough (the dealer keeps "flashing" the computer), the outside temp gauge (that is finally going to be replaced), the windows shuddering as they go up. Anyone else had THOSE problems with a 2004? If so, what did the dealer do?
  • I have a 2002 LXI Convertible. The car has a shake at 25 MPH and up. I had new tires put on and a four wheel alignment done. The shaking is still there. Any ideas?
  • For a while I heard a noise that I can only describe as a rotating type of sound eminating from the front. It seemed to be most audible when the car was coasting (slowing down) after reaching 30 or more miles and hour and my foot was removed from the gas peddle. No one seemed to acknowledge the sound as a problem. said all convertibles sound like that. Put it in the shop (chrysler dealership) while in Florida before my warranty expired. (extended after market warranty since I bought the car used) they said it was nothing - only a nail in the tire and rust due to weather. Got in car and the noise was still there. Drove home, warranty expired and two weeks later the noise seemed to get more severe. The other night, the car broke down - turns out all the lugnuts except for one came off - one lodged behind the rotor and needless to say this was not covered - Chrysler said someone probably tried to steal my tires and possibly couldnt get one of the lug nuts loose so since the others were already loose, they worked themselves out while I was driving. (?????) I am thankful no accident occured because five minutes before the breakdown I was on the highway with my grandchildrewn and my daughter who is expecting another baby any day. I had to pay 740.56 to cover the damages done (money I really honestly didnt have)

    Initially I was told that the wheel bearing were bad and probably caused a vibration that in turn caused the lugs to come off...

    Today I drove my daughter to school, I came home parked the car an went out later on (about an hour and a half later) and saw a small puddle of fluid (looks like water) coming from under my car. I investigated and saw it was dripping from somewhere in the front more towards the passenger side. I dont know what to do or what it could be. I didnt hit anything or fall into any potholes....

    I'm so worried about my car - it now has 59,707 miles on it. when I purchased it a year ago (November, it had 39597 miles). and it seems it might have nothing but problems left...

    Anyone have any problems similar to mine??
  • Hi all, First time post...
    Went to change a burnt headlight bulb on the wifes 01 Sebring and I'll be damn if I can figure out how to get to the's buried !! Does the whole front end of the car have to come off :mad: "> I hate to even think about the battery..that's buried so deep you can barely see it !! Anyway, any thoughts or suggestions would be much appreciated
  • You probably have a G3 seatbelt. These are totally defective and Crysler is being sued over it, so my guess is that your paticular dealer is trying to replace it on the sly so he doesn't have to pay for it later when the belt is recalled. Let him so long as there's no charge for it. The defective belts pop open when your're in a wreck, and have killed 30 or so people. Go to for more info.
  • There IS a real safety issue, and your dealer is either a liar or he doesn't read the safety updates from Chrysler. You have a defective G3 seatbelt. Please go to to learn about it. Then call the dealership and bawl them out.
  • I live in the middle of the Mojave and own a red one with a black top. A/C always cools the car down in less that 3 minutes. Don't worry about the top color. Worry about whether the car has cloth seats. Under no circumstances get leather seats. You'll fry your legs and rear end. Ouch!
  • Anybody run into this problem? I just had a rental for a Sebring Convertible and after pulling into a gas station, I found the doors were locked!!

    This is how things happened:
    1) Pulled into gas station and opened door with engine running.
    2) Opened door to check gas cap was on driver's side.
    3) Leaned over to turn key in ignition lock and left keys in.
    4) Closed door and proceeded to fill gas.
    5) Returned to driver's door to find it locked!!!!!

    When I called Avis, they accused me of "accidentally" hitting the power lock and that this lockout problem was mine. I did no such thing as you could clearly see that the door lock was still up while the door could not open from the outside.

    Since Avis had no psare keys, I used AAA to bail me out. I had the driver verify that the door lock was still up and he used his tool and was also puzzled that it was locked. Instead, a different tool was used to pulled the inside lever and the door opened.

    When I returned the car at Orlando Airport I explained it to the clerk I was returning the car to. I wanted to demonstrate the same problem again. She was smart enough to lower the window first. Did same thing as above steps 1 through 5. Voila! Door is locked with key still in ignition.

    Beware! This may be a problem with a new model. With only 300+ miles, it was either a 2005 or possibly a 2006 if they are now out.
  • 2001 Sebring has new battery. Problem has been going on for a year. Car often does not start (click, click ...) and requires a jump start. A 30 minute drive and it is OK for the rest of the day. Jumps starts are required about once every two weeks in the morning on first use of the day. No lights left on. Car locked, security system automatically on. Something is discharging the battery during the night or the battery is not getting sufficient charge during the day to carry over to the next morning -- or some other problem. Car has been into dealer and they said they could find nothing wrong. And suggestions on solutions or how to get the dealer to find the problem would be appreciated.
  • I have a 98 Sebring convertible and am having the same problem. It just started. My mechanic cannot find out what it is. My problem is I have to jump start it every two days if it sits.

    If you know of any solutions, please let me know.


  • Don't see a rain relation here. It will normally fail after sitting unused for one day. Once an overhead light was left on, but normally nothing is left on. The car is locked outdoors and the security light does blink as it is supposed to. I am wondering is the security is running down the battery. We have been careful not to leave cell phone plugged in to cigar lighter since it seems to be on with ignition off. That would drain a little power. If you have something plugged in there try removing it. Pep Boys sells a solar charger that "maintains" battery charge, they say. I have thought of getting one of those to help keep battery charged on that one day of no use where it fails. It has been going on for a long time and is frustrating -- it's been a pretty good car other than the abnormal battery problem. Also, last time battery was changed (at Pep Boys), I had the biggest amp battery they had, installed. That hasn't helped. I am in Colorado and it will be worse when it gets cold. Most cars can sit for a week without the battery running down.
  • The bulbs are easy to change. Take out the two long torx head screws that go down through the headlight bucket and pull the entire headlight bucket out. Then pop out the bulb, replace it, and re-assemble. Only takes 10 minutes.

  • Can you tell me where the oxygen sensor is located on your 1997 sebring...mine is bad and did not want to buy the book.

This discussion has been closed.