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I had a tipping noise after 20 min driving so the dealer changed the timming chain tensioner.
After then, the car was totally different car then before, as if more then 5 years old car.
Following are the problem I have.
1. Abnormal vibration under accelerator like something is grinding and noise when I start and driving the car in the morning.
2. Snapping the accelerator with noise when it starts and driving just one time. After stop and 20 min. after driving it snap again but during the driving it is O.K.
3. Tipping noise all the time especially severe in the morning.
4. If I speed up gaggling noise seems to be caused by tipping noise mentioned above.
5. On the highway, gaggling noise 80mile/hr~90mile/hr.
All those noise is hard to listen if you are not driving everyday.
Even in the dealer’ service shop, the technician does not catch the sound with 5 min. driving, but I do.
I complained several time to the dealer and they keep saying it is o.k.
So I recorded the noise with my mp3 player placing it under the hood. Finally the service manager knows the sound, but still saying other v6 engine would have same noise.
So I will record the other car with same engine.
Anyway
Is anyone knows how this problem caused? Related with any job they done for the tensioner reolacement.
Break in was pretty close to textbook, and I even used the Shifttronic paddle much of the time to vary the rpm's between the 2000-4000 range the manual suggests as well as doing light load/cylinder vacuum deceleration, so I don't think abnormally hard driving could account for the presence of these shavings. Am inclined to think this is 'normal' but something you wouldn't be able to see with a typical cannister filter unless you cut it apart.
Has anyone else looked at their used cartridge style oil filter and found 'interesting' things? :confuse:
Jim
I have been changing the engine oil every 3000 miles or 4 months(whichever comes first) in all my cars for the past 4 decades. This is cheap insurance as I have never had any engine problems (smoking, piston/valves knocks, etc) due to poor engine lubication PM. This has definitely helped me to keep my cars 10 -15 years.
I change my oil according to owners manual and I too have not have any problems due to poor lubrication and I saved the time, hassle and money of extra trips to the dealer for unneeded extra oil changes.
Is changing the oil more often than the manufacturer recommends going to have anything to with common high mileage wear items like having to replace a head gasket?
But please, please DO NOT follow us because the dealers need to make money from others. The economy also needs a boost, especially today. :-0) The economy is propped by the 75+% of the population who spend without any restraint, especially with credit, which has resulted in this credit & mortgage fiasco today. Foreclosures and bankruptcies are very high today and will get worse in the next 12 - 19 months. Just watch...
With reference to the owner's manual, one can easily see that almost everyone's daily driving falls into severe driving category as defined in the manual - which would necessitate more frequent oil changes than than the common 7500 mile period. I (including my sons) choose to change oil at 3000 miles/4 months to give that extra margin of safety that has worked for the past 40 years for me. But then to each, his/her own. As we are mechanically capable (do it yourselfers), it costs me under $12 for brand name oil and filter on sale - for the Sonata V6 with the element filter. It is even cheaper at about $7 when a cannister fliter is used like in our Infinity G35, Maxima, Ridgeline, CRV, and Ody.
My driving doesn't fall into the severe category. It's normal suburban driving.
The Sonata already has a pretty frequent oil change schedule compared to other cars. There are many new cars today that even the severe schedule is 5000-7500 miles and the normal schedule is over 10,000 miles.
Moisture forms easily in the oil pan during startups and certain weather/temperature conditions. We can only protect against that and other destructive contaminants with frequent oil changes. One can choose do so at either 3000 miles or 7500, 10000 miles. It is obvious that since oil starts to deteriorate as soon as it is used, that the risk of engine failure would be less at 3000 miles vs at 7500 and 10000 miles.
For a do-it-yourself person like I am, the cost of materials is cheap at about 1/4 to 1/3 of dealer oil change cost. It takes me less than 30 mins in my home garage and with no waiting at the dealer. A cold 6-pak of beer, while doing it, puts a smile into my face. It is hard to beat that! :-0)
In that case, they would need to word it differently and have a normal and "highway driver" schedule with extended schedule rather than a normal and "severe" schedule with shorter intervals.
Getting caught in a traffic jam doesn't negate the other 95% of normal driving I do.
Using the A/C on hot days is normal.
If I had a daily commute in bumper to bumper gridlock and 100+ degree temps all summer long in Phoenix or parked outside in sub zero temps in the Midwest all winter, and/or worked or lived around a very dusty construction site with the car covered in dust on a regular basis, I'd use the severe schedule because that is more severe than the typical expected driving the car would be designed for.
If I were doing long stretches of highway driving as a daily routine, I would be more inclined to relax the oil change interval to maybe 5000. I believe that my oil change routine/schedule has helped me keep all my cars for 10 - 15 years with no engine issues for the past 4 decades.
My dad worked for an oil company for 35 years and we always changed our oil 3000/3 months until about ten years ago. Now with a combination of better engines, longer manufacturer guidelines and the realization that our natural resources are getting scarce, we now go 5,000/5 months between changes. If we happen to go for an extended stretch in which we feel the need we'll change it sooner but overall we stay pretty much on that schedule.
In the first instance, I turned hard left and then hard right. The radio swithced bands. The second time, I turned hard right and the channel changes, but on the same band. This morning, I turned hard right coming out of my driveway and the seat belt buzzer started again - it had buzzed when the car started, stopped and then started again. (I did not use the seat belt as I was moving the car into the street.)
Just wondering if this has happened to anyone else. Thanks.
More than likely, the wiring to the clockspring, or the clockspring itself needs replacing.
It's a 2008 - new with 1100 miles.
Thanks.
Thanks for the advise.
Your 4cyl would have the metal cannister filter at the bottom of the engine.
Quite frankly I prefer the metal cannister filters. They are cheaper and simpler to replace than the element filter. For example, when Advance Auto has their BOGO specials, their metal cannister filters made by Purolator can be had for about $1.44 each. We use them in our Ody, CRV, & Maxima. At BOGO prices, we have about 20+ in our garage. We do similar for oil on sale.
The V6 element filter sells for much more at about $7 - $8 and I have not seen any on special yet. But 4 months ago, I did purchase about 8 at about $6.30 each from a webstore with free shipping over $50 and no out of state tax.
Overall I'm damn delighted with the car, it's getting 28-29 MPG in mixed driving, and the comfort and ease of driving is great, but it is losing coolant at a rate comparable to my old cage, the Aztek with the 3.4L V6 with a bad intake manifold gasket.
It would be interesting to see if any coolant is in the crankcase engine oil - a positive sign of gasket problem. The engine oil level being too high due to coolant seeping in could be another indicator.
Seems too new for this problem - but there could always be one that occurs early due to manufacture/assembly problem.
If you own a 1999-2001 Hyundai Sonata I suggest inspecting your subframe for rust. If you are not sure where to look, you should turn your steering wheel all the way to the right. Look where the A-Arm bolts to the frame. You will probably find severe rust. If you do, I would like to hear from you at tntnknb@juno.com Even if it has not failed yet, I suggest taking it to a Hyundai dealer and filing a claim with Hyundai Consumer affairs.
My hope is that Hyundai, who has admitted to a problem by paying for repairs will soon address this obvious safety issue.
Tom Baker, Kansas City, MO
No let me rephrase this....it should be directed to the "subframe rust" thread. K-thunk has nothing to do with this.
What model of Sonata do you have? I have an '06, and the center mounted brake light went. It is a job that required a really long screw driver and some circus level contortions to change. I was actually happy to let the dealer replace the bulb. I think it cost me about 30$ Cdn to have it replaced.
Cheers,
Jon
Haven't seen you on the "Smart Shoppers" board in a couple years. You ever coming back... or do you already know it all ?
good luck