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2013 and Earlier - Hyundai Sonata Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited October 2012
    Should also be on the Edmunds home page.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • saz25saz25 Member Posts: 152
    Hold backs
    http://www.edmunds.com/car-buying/dealer-holdback/

    Incentives also show up when you price the car on edmunds.com and kbb.com

    Steve
  • ffxjackffxjack Member Posts: 47
    Thanks. Interesting since the Edmunds explanation on hold backs tell people that many dealers are unwilling to negotiate their hold back.
  • saz25saz25 Member Posts: 152
    "Thanks. Interesting since the Edmunds explanation on hold backs tell people that many dealers are unwilling to negotiate their hold back"

    That's the trick. You never mention holdbacks to them during your negotiation. You just tell them your price. No need to tell them how you arrived at that number. Once you start to give them too much information, the process goes against you from there.

    I even avoid all the small talk about how many miles I drive each year, how many kids I have, what kind of driving I do, city vs. highway, what I do for a living, etc. Its a cash sale, so they shouldn't care (or need to know) about anything except the price.

    Remember, these people are not your friends. They are adversaries in the negotiation process. Its strictly business at that point.

    Steve
  • steven39steven39 Member Posts: 636
    the difference between these two cars is this.the honda will get better resale value while the sonata will have way more features for the money including a better warranty.if you plan on keeping the car for atleast 5 years,the sonata is the way to go....
  • steven39steven39 Member Posts: 636
    what was your final negotiated price before TTT??
  • LASHAWNLASHAWN Member Posts: 303
    I know this strategy worked well for you on the purchase of a Sonata because this car is in high demand. I'm looking at purchasing a 3.8l Genesis Sedan loaded with Prem/Tech packages. Do ou think this would work on that car that's not in high demand like the Sonata? Looking to buy end of Nov. maybe Dec.
  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    Lashawn, I am Looking to buy a 2013 Hyundia Genesis, V6 with all the Toys, or the new 2013 Honda Accord, V6... EXL. The style is very similar, size, and the features are pretty close. My thoughts are if i opt for the Accord i will save about 12k. when i compare them side to side on edmunds they are pretty close in size, horsepower , V6 only, and tech features. Gas mpg better on Accord. The Genesis will be redesigned for 2014 with a 10 speed trans and i would think more updated Tech features. I dont want to wait till next Nov, 2014 . I plan to buy either car in Jan 2013. I have not decided yet. Price wise here in New york/ New jersey Invoice price on the Accord is do able right now. I would say by Jan 2013 I could buy for 500 below invoice. That is my target price on the Accord. The 2013 Hyundia Genesis Pricing will be determined by Supply and Demand. My target price on the Genesis will be starting at 1000 below Dealers Invoice price and No dealerships Doc Fee's added on to sale. I will work my below invoice number up to no more than 500 below invoice. Thats where my bottom line price to buy this car stands.. As you get older and wiser you look to get the best bang for your buck. The Hyundia Genesis is one of the best bangs for the buck out there. I own a 2012 Bmw, X5 and this one is my last high end vehicle. There are many good vehicles being built now under 45k.............. Good luck

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • 999eezz999eezz Member Posts: 4
    I just purchased the GLS with popular package, all mats, tinted window at $19019. $20600 OTD, about $2700 below invoice. I purchased it in Houston TX.
  • pegasus17pegasus17 Member Posts: 536
    ref:8537
    WOW, that's an awesome price. Did you have any other rebates (military, loyalty, etc.) to get the price so low?
    Good luck with it...
  • steven39steven39 Member Posts: 636
    what was the msrp of this car...your price is way,way,below invoice..like the other poster mentioned,where there any rebates involved here to get to that price???
  • saz25saz25 Member Posts: 152
    Just an FYI. Anyone can get those rebates. I am not a veteran nor a former Hyundai owner but I was able to get all the so-called rebates, over $2000.

    I was very clear that I was not a veteran or a loyalty customer but that I wanted to pay approx. $2400 under invoice.
    Two dealers agreed to my offer. Of course, three others didn't.
    Steve
  • 999eezz999eezz Member Posts: 4
    edited November 2012
    I have no idea what type of rebates I have gotten. I follow Brian's and Steve's calculation to figure out my offer price. Initially, I asked for $20400 OTD for a basic model without package. The dealer agreed to that price. However, I went to the wrong dealer, that dealer doesn't have the color I want but they offerred me $20000 OTD to take another color. The 2nd color choice they have has the package built in. So I added $600. I guess we don't have to know of what current incentives or rebates, they always have something going on. Just follow Brian's calculation. You will never go wrong. Remember to purchase your car at the end of the month. Call all dealerships to tell them you offer price. It is so much easier than negotiating back and forth. Good luck.

    Thanks Steve and Brian for your advices.

    I was offerred $1295 for 10 yrs/?? miles, $0 deductible hyundai Platinum extended warranty (administer by Fidelity), should I buy it? Finance manager said I can purchase it within a week. The reason why I am considering is too many electronic components that can fail easily, like bluetooth, computer parts...etc. Please advice
  • 999eezz999eezz Member Posts: 4
    Just looked it up, the msrp was $22595.
  • micgre01micgre01 Member Posts: 1
    I was curious to see if you bought your 2013 SE, I am starting to look for a new car and am trying to get some figures to take into the dealership. Thanks.
  • sirjaredsirjared Member Posts: 13
    Hey guys,

    Been following the posts in here for the past month or so gearing up towards getting my new car. It's been so helpful and I'm starting to feel quite confident (although never as confident as until after you've successfully done something) about going through this process. I live in NY and we were hit hard with this storm as most who aren't from the Northeast probably know about. In any case, I thought I had the perfect situation with respect to going in on Oct 31 since Monday and Tuesday everything was shut down. I was expecting to be in tip top shape for prime negotiation, but was still unable to get there then :( I know the end of the month is always best, but I'm hoping that with this crisis that's been going on there haven't been many sales and they'll be willing to do a good deal, as I don't really have much of a choice now with my current lease set to go back on the 10th.

    In any event, I've been going back and forth on what to do for this next one, but from your knowledge and experience, would this negotiation work just the same with respect to the sales price of the car within a lease deal?
  • kibbler1138kibbler1138 Member Posts: 1
    edited November 2012
    I live in Maryland and bought my '13 Sonata Limited w/ Premium package in "Shimmering White" (+$200!) on the 31st. I thought I had done well until I read this forum. I've been having buyer's remorse since the drive home. I like the car a lot, but I wanted so badly to get a good deal and now I'm totally distraught over the price I paid.

    All the dealerships in my area (Frederick and Washington counties) were either closed, had phone lines down, or were just otherwise not making a lot of sales on Monday and Tuesday during the brunt of Sandy. I figured I had picked a really sweet time to go for the purchase. I worked two local dealers on the phone (one about 50 miles from where I work) and they wound up coming to equilibrium. I picked the further dealership which I actually preferred because I had been in a year ago and they treated me much better than when I went for a test drive at the closer dealer.

    After the deal was done, I immediately realized I paid too much: My "OTD" price was 27,050... but that included $200 doc fees (d'oh!), and -$1500 in rebates. The sales guy kept going on about how he had never seen a sonata discounted that deeply (yada yada yada). I had been using truecar and various sources to try to find a good price, but I missed out on finding actual buyer stories.

    Oh... and that wasn't my OTD price. I said no to the extended warranty and service plans three times... but not a fourth. Tacked on an additional $1900 in the end. I knew it was dumb as the words came out of my mouth, but... what can I say. I'm a sucker. For the past two days, I've been calling Fidelity Warranty (owns the Hyundai extended service/warranty plans) to try to cancel. They don't have record of the contract yet (they do say it takes 2 business days to get into the system). If I can successfully cancel the contract (good luck to me), I'll at least feel a little better about the price I paid.

    Blah.

    Point being, I don't think Sandy gave anyone an advantage at the dealer that wouldn't already have an advantage due to their strong negotiation skills.
  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited November 2012
    LEASING, when you lease a car same rule applies. Always try to Negotiate your lowest price for the car 1st. Find out before you lease the residual, and money factor for that model car. This is the formula they use for the monthly payment. Go to Edmunds leasing forum ask the Car Man for residual , and money factor on your lease period. Make sure you tell him 12k or 15k per year and the make and model.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • pooperscooperpooperscooper Member Posts: 4
    I am getting quotes around $18400 in the Charlotte NC area. This is not otd. I've found a dealer in Roanoke VA offering 15997 if you are recent college grad and military or 16,887 without. Both those figures do not include freight which is 825. Must be a Virginia thing. It seems realistic to get these cars sub 18,000 without the preferred package that has the rims and such. Do heated cloth seats really matter?
  • saz25saz25 Member Posts: 152
    I found that its best to not even ask for a quote from a dealer. That's the first mistake many people make.

    You put yourself in the drivers seat by giving the dealer your price based on the options and packages you want.

    For example, you see a car in stock with a specific total MSRP. Make an offer based on research and knowledge of invoice price and incentives.

    You can get all incentives regardless of being a recent grad, veteran, etc.

    Good luck
    Steve
  • sirjaredsirjared Member Posts: 13
    Wow, those are some low prices in that area. I live up in NY and am not getting as great of pricing. Is there a way to work with those dealers without having to drive there?? haha

    Hey Steve, I've seen you mention before about being able to get the incentives even when you don't qualify. How do you manage this, just tell them you want all incentives and if they ask for proof you just tell them you don't have it but you want them anyway? I wish I had you on my side going in there, I picture the salesman shaking in their seats when they try to pull their games and you slam it right back in their face haha. Thanks for all your posts.
  • saz25saz25 Member Posts: 152
    Hi
    The key is for you (as a buyer) to know the incentives. In the case of the Sonata it's about $1500 total. You don't want to discuss incentives per se.

    Just make them an offer for the car you see/want.

    You should also know the invoice price and hold back.

    As soon as you mention how you arrived at your offer, you are doomed !!

    I say to the sales rep, this is what I want to pay for this car. Immediately they bring in the sales manager or general manager, which is good for you.

    The manager can always give you a lower price than the sales rep alone.

    Good luck.
    Steve
  • sirjaredsirjared Member Posts: 13
    Ok, think I'm getting the technique better. When the manager comes out, will they ask how you got to the price? Do you just stick to the story, "this is what I want to pay for it" or how do you suggest to respond to such questions?
  • steven39steven39 Member Posts: 636
    just a quick comment about the incentives.iv'e purchased 2 cars in the last 5 years where the military rebate was available.it was about 500 dollars each time.i was never in the military but i told them i was and they gave me the rebate and didn't ask to see any documents about me being in the military...
  • pooperscooperpooperscooper Member Posts: 4
    Since this is a prices paid forum, I'm wondering if anyone has gotten a new base Sonata under 18k? That is the best I've done over the phone but I plan to go for the gold in person. Even at that, I am over 5,000 off sticker. The incentives are tricky because there are so many and some are wrapped up in financing.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    If you are in the process of car shopping, using online forums and tools and plan to visit a dealer soon, a reporter would like to hear from you. Please email PR@edmunds.com by Tuesday, November 13, 2012 and provide a few lines about your experience so far.
  • bgravbgrav Member Posts: 1
    Hey guys - I used this forum to great effect when I bought my 2007 Sonata Limited - Sandy just dropped a tree on it. ( loved that car) I live in the Danbury, CT area - last time I found my best price in Northern New Jersey - I'm willing to drive a bit to get the best deal. What I need now is to know if anyone in my area has an OTD price for a 2013 Limited Sonata with the Premium Package. I saw someone paid $27,100 OTD, but not near me. I just need a bottom line to stand by - the rest of the dealership BS I can navigate.
    Need to move quickly -
    Thanks - great to see consumers helping each other out. This stuff works -
    ps. Last dealership I visited mentioned that they were offering a $750 incentive for anyone whose car was damaged by the Hurricane. Just fyi.
  • ekg2ekg2 Member Posts: 6
    I don't know about the $27,100 OTD. The lowest price I've seen anyone get on this site is $25,000 before taxes, license and any fees. I paid $25,395 + $2756 which includes taxes, license and $80 doc fee. The MSRP was about $29,900 and I paid $28,151 OTD. I would suggest calling dealerships and telling them exactly what you want and that you want to pay $25,000 before taxes, etc. That's what I did and found 1 dealer out of 5 who would do it.
  • saz25saz25 Member Posts: 152
    edited November 2012
    Hi,
    First of all, it is so easy to get good prices on a Sonata. There is so much margin in this particular model.

    Rule #1: Never ask for a quote from the sales rep.
    Rule #2: Do your homework. Determine the invoice price for the vehicle in question. Look here on Edmunds to get that. Based on the model's total MSRP, calculate 3% of that number. Subtract that from the invoice price. Then subtract an additional $1500 minimum. Use that number to make your offer.
    Rule #3: Tell sales rep, that its all business. You will buy the car today of you meet "My price". If not, you will call elsewhere.
    Rule #4: Do the negotiation on the phone. Tell them that you will come in to make the purchase if they agree to your price on the phone.
    Rule #5: Pay no Documentation fees. If they insist on the Doc fee, then you insist that they reduce the previously agreed upon price accordingly.
    Rule #6: Do not, and I repeat, do not, believe anything the sales rep says about anything.
    Rule #7: Do not tell the sales rep how you arrived at your offer.
    Rule #8: You have much more leverage negotiating during the last week of the month.
    Rule #9: If you end up only negotiating with a sales rep and not the sales manager, you certainly paid too much. The best deals require that the sales rep gets his/her manager involved in the process. You need to see the sales rep squirm. I am very serious.

    I was able to get a 2013 Sonata Limited (with Premium, etc.) with an MSRP or around $30,000, for $25,000 exactly with no Doc fees. The only added cost was state tax and license fees. I called 6 dealers. Two met my exact price. The others said they could not, but counter offered about $300-$500 more. The key is to drive the conversation and control things.

    Good luck.
    Steve
  • bhmr59bhmr59 Member Posts: 1,601
    edited November 2012
    Check with Towne Hyundai in Dennville, NJ. They're 100 miles from my home in Trumbull...so you're a few more miles.

    Their internet pricing is great. Just watch the date of your vehicle registration if you buy from them, as they contract this out and the contractors have been slow.
  • I can tell you that my EX base sticker was $24,265. I negotiated $20,500 plus $1500 for GAP, 100k extented warr (bumper to bumber to 100k...instead of 60k), and Lojak. Total including financing and taxes (called total of payments on your contract) was $24,500. $24,500 is the absolute total. I put nothing down. Instead, I paid my insurance for a year.
  • I can tell you that my EX base sticker was $24,265. I negotiated $20,500 plus $1500 for GAP, 100k extented warr (bumper to bumber to 100k...instead of 60k), and Lojak. Total including financing and taxes (called total of payments on your contract) was $24,500. $24,500 is the absolute total. I put nothing down. Instead, I paid my insurance for a year. I need to disclose that I have tye Optima. The Sonata equivalent is the SE. The dealer threw in an extra set of thick rubber all weather mats, a tough PVC trunk liner, and an Optima sticker on the bumper that no one can see. The mats and liner are fantastic for winter amd spring weather. I use the carpeted mats in the Summer. I have had my (2012) car for a year now and have had zero problems.
  • saz25saz25 Member Posts: 152
    Hi,
    Just so you know, you actually paid for those mats several times over. Everyone says, on this forum, that you don't want to buy an extended warranty from the dealer who sold you the car. You can get the exact same extended Hyundai warranty from dealers online for half the price.

    I bet you can also get Lojak elsewhere for cheaper. Its usually a mistake to buy anything from the dealer other than the car.

    Anyway, we hope you enjoy the ride.
    Steve
  • koctailzkoctailz Member Posts: 87
    edited November 2012
    add that GAP coverage on your auto insurance policy, its a fraction of that $1500. You should be able to cancel the GAP coverage since you just purchased but the dealer might fight you on this one. Also lojack is a waste of money imo for a sonata. actually lojack imo is a total waste period. most police dept due to budget cuts dont even have the system in their patrol cars and large departments that do have higher priority crime than stolen vehicles. add to that all new cars have engine immobilizer anti theft systems built in and new cars are very difficult to steal.
  • tarabella99tarabella99 Member Posts: 1
    Hello
    I am looking to purchase a Hyundai Sonata Limited MSRP 31,600. I offered a dealer 28k all inckusive, they are telling me 29 is the best they can do even with all the incentives...

    Should I stand my ground???
  • saz25saz25 Member Posts: 152
    You should have offered less; something around $26500.
    Call other dealers on the phone .
    Don't go to the dealer till you negotiate on the phone.

    Also end of month gives you more advantage.
    Say no to doc fees too.

    You can do it.
    Steve
  • sunnymoneysunnymoney Member Posts: 5
    Hi Tarabella99,

    PLEASE do not pay that much. I posted a couple of pages back for my 13 sonata limited with tech package OTD 25,700 with recent grad and Hyundai Motor financing rebate so 27,100 if you dont qualify for anything. The invoice is 28,100 so if you pay the price they are quoting you, they are making a TON of money off you. Do not pay anything above the low 27k if you do not qualify for anything.

    Call every single dealer 100 miles from you should be like 6 or 7 depending on where you live. Go to about 2 or 3 the ones you like and are in the business to make a deal sooner rather than later.

    Good Luck - I love the car and is beautiful inside and out -

    BUT the gas mileage im average 23 to 28 city and highway mixed so be prepared for this. Its a huge car and 18.5 gallon tank so its heavy. Overall, great purchase!!!
  • thetripleithetriplei Member Posts: 7
    Hey Steve (and any others with experience in the matter), have you ever negotiated with a trade-in? If so, what do you think is the best strategy? I've heard it said negotiate your best price then add the trade-in into the mix after that has been agreed. I have a lease that is going back and was thinking if it had any trade in value, that'd sure be great, but even if they just took it off my hands, that would be like a trade in of the cost of the disposition fee and any potential damage charges the dealership would try to tack on.

    Also, the car is due back before the end of the month, but I was considering extending the lease in order to be able to make a deal on the last day of the month as it appears that's your best opportunity for getting a good deal. What are your thoughts on this?

    Any direction or help is much appreciated.
  • saz25saz25 Member Posts: 152
    Hi,
    I usually sell my cars myself instead of trading it in. Having said that, a couple of times I have traded it in to the dealer. But only after negotiating the new car price first. When I start to negotiate the new car price, when they ask if there is a trade in, I say No.

    After we come to an agreement on the new car price, I then say, "How about give me a price on the trade in". I do my research first to determine what is a fair price.

    Then you can weigh the pros and cons of their price compared to the true price you think you can get privately. When I did actually trade in the car, the price we agreed on was close enough to what it should be, so I did it. Most times, they low ball you, so I just say No to the trade and just buy the new car. I've sold many cars over the years on craigslist.

    I've never leased a car, so I really can't suggest how to handle that.

    Hope this helps.
    Steve
  • unlv_rebelsunlv_rebels Member Posts: 32
    edited November 2012
    I did some research and found out the following info:
    MSRP: $20,570
    Factory Invoice: $19952
    Dealer Holdback (3%): - $599
    Manf to Dealer Incentive: - $1500 (min); Is this $1500-$2000 ?
    TRUE DEALER COST: $17853

    True Dealer cost: $17853
    Dealer fair profit: $714 (3%). It can be 3-5%. Max 5%.
    TOTAL FAIR PROFIT NEW CAR OFFER: $18567.
    Plus Destination fee + Tax, Title, License fees + State tax/fees.
    Minus $1000 HM Finance Cash back; $500 Loyal Customer Offer; $400 Recent Grad. I hope all three offers can be combined.

    I have requested quotes from a number of online websites. Looking forward to hear from few dealers with their offers.

    Does $18567 sound right ? It appears that one can avoid documentation fee, right ? Any comments ? TIA.
  • saz25saz25 Member Posts: 152
    Hi,
    I wouldn't worry about "dealer fair profit". Really I never do.
    They have so many ways to make money even after the sale such as end of month bonus, end of quarter bonus, other manufacturer to dealer incentives that the public never knows about.

    Also, I never ask the sales rep for a quote. I tell them what I want to pay. They can counter-offer, of course. Then you decide if their offer is close enough.

    Starting with $17,853, I like to deal in nice round numbers. I would offer $18,000 even !

    Don't tell the dealer how you arrived at that number.

    Say that you will buy now if they meet your price and that you will call other dealers.

    As for doc fee, I always fight it. I have successfully bought cars with either $0 doc fee or a 50% reduced doc fee. If they say that the doc fee is printed on the sales order form, just tell them to reduce your agreed upon price by the amount of the doc fee. I've done that twice. You gotta be assertive with these people.

    Good luck.
    Steve
  • benrey23benrey23 Member Posts: 42
    As a sales representative I have dealt with your type many times. Never do i squirm, and I will not go get my SM if your attitude is crap and you think you should get a brand new car and the dealer give up holdback. The dealer does pay the invoice price on a new vehicle when it is shipped to them (or bank). When the car sells the dealer then sends in a claim for holdback. There are costs to having all those cars in stock such as inventory tax, interest on inventory, clean up crew, advertising, commissions, LOCAL CHARITIES,office clerks. I find it interesting you have no issue paying the title fee that goes to the state but say hell no to a document fee. Unless the car has been in stock for over a year, or is a demo there is no way I will ever bring a offer like that to my SM. At that price I already know it is a $100 flat commission and likely a bad CSI score, and if you are out of town I will not get your service business or referrals. There is no upside for me or the dealer just to sell a car. There used to be a couple smaller dealers in my area that cant afford to lose money on a deal and YES that is what happens when they give up holdback. They are no longer in business. They had the best service and reputation but locals would go 20 miles to save $500 bucks. It is sad you dont attempt to see what paying a little extra to by near you might be paying for. After all it is about VALUE in the end.
  • benrey23benrey23 Member Posts: 42
    You need to find out if they have early lease incentives. Now for full disclosure I am a sales rep. I often read these forums to get an idea what the trends are. As for your trade. Some dealers are different. You can do it either way but I can assure you the numbers would come out the same either way. They may sell a car very very little profit but I promise you they will not give over fair value for a trade. Nothing wrong with that. If you are going to pay wholesale then expect wholesale for trade. 90% of leases are not worth buying at end of lease because they add buyout fees up to 2500 and depending on your lease you may have a termination fee that would have to be concidered as well. If your lease is not a hyundai they might have a competitive early lease incentive at Hyundai. I know Ford does.
  • saz25saz25 Member Posts: 152
    First of all I always deal with a sales rep with respect. Never am I rude. It's pure business.

    But one policy that I have, never changes. I do not, and I repeat, do not believe anything a car sales rep says. Nothing....

    With all due respect, have a nice day.

    I have been buying cars for myself, friends, and family for years. No one gets a better deal than I do. I have taught many people to do the same.
    Steve
  • saz25saz25 Member Posts: 152
    Hi,
    I felt that I needed to add to my previous reply as I don't think this individual is helping others on this forum. Does he want you all feel sorry or compassion for the dealership and make sure they make a substantial profit? It shouldn't be our (buyers) responsibility to make sure they make a profit. If they don't agree to the deal, so be it. End of story.

    Does he think I am kidding when I say I do this all the time and it works. Here are 3 recent examples of cars I bought for myself or family members:

    2013 Sonata Limited with $30,000 MSRP, I paid $25,000. No doc fee

    2013 Lexus RX350 with $50,000 MSRP, I paid $44,000 with $400 doc fee (reduced from $600). (Note: I agreed to the $400 doc fee because I knew it was a very good overall deal)

    2012 Toyota Prius with $29,300 MSRP, I paid $26,400 with no doc fee.

    These were all below the invoice as well the hold-back.

    To illustrate how easy this is, I could have gotten the Sonata from 2 different and very large south Florida dealers. Yes, I called 6, but 2 agreed to my deal.

    As for the Lexus, I called 5 dealers in NH and MA, one agreed to my price, but 3 others were close enough (within $700) that I would have bought from them except that I choose the lowest price. My local/closest dealer will service it and be happy getting the service and warranty business.

    Don't believe anything a car sales rep says. Besides, should car sales reps supposed to even be on this forum?
    Steve
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,221
    Besides, should car sales reps supposed to even be on this forum?


    As long as they aren't soliciting, they are welcome in the forums..

    Edmunds Price Checker
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    Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!

    Edmunds Moderator

  • sirjaredsirjared Member Posts: 13
    Steve,

    Quick question regarding your strategy for a target price. When you talk about subtracting at least $1500 from the invoice price - hold back would that $1500 take into account any incentives, or would those be extra subtracted on top of everything else?
  • saz25saz25 Member Posts: 152
    Hi
    The $1500-$2000 I mentioned is the current Hyundai incentives. Some are for loyalty, college students, veteran, etc.

    I determined when negotiating with several dealers that you can get them all. They never asked me for proof of military status, previous buyer, etc.

    It seems that the manufacturer gives the dealer all the incentives totalling about $2000 total ($1000 of which applies to financing) and the dealer decides how to divy them up.

    In order to get the full $2000 I agreed to finance just $6000, and pay the rest in cash. Ultimately I repaid the $6000 loan in less than a month.

    My intention was to buy the car with cash like I normally do.

    Hope this helps
    Steve
  • leggyleggy Member Posts: 45
    Just bought 2013 Sonata limited turbo for out of the door price $26,240 in NY + $130 gap insruance purchased from the dealer. Used $2,250 rebated.
    Sale price was about $24,000. Sticker price was $28,885
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