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Here's the link:
http://www.edmunds.com/dealerships/drr/jump.html
I am new to the forum, my name is Sean and I own a 97 Sport with 116K miles on it. Recently it would not start, dead battery. Jumped it, got the electriacl system tested at a Firestone store. Checked OK. A few weeks later - the same thing - but for several days I would jump it, Volt gauge woud show a healthy charge taking place then I'd come back later and battery would be dead again. Then for weeks it was fine. Now - its more the rule than the exception. Anyone have an idea as to would is going on? Do I have an intermittant short somewhere?
Thanks in advance -- Sean
Also I cleared the codes and now the secondary air injection, catalist, and evap IM status won't reset, is that normal given the other problems I mentioned ?
And I also would like to know what are the most common causes of the secondary air injection problems ?...I found a broken vacuum line and fixed that but it didn't help, or maybe it did but the misfire is causing it not to reset ?
wake up call my first summer with a '97 Cat that I bought
used ( but fully serviced by a Volkswagon Mechanic ! ) Oil
pressure bottomed triggering the alarm/idiot light. What
was suggested was using an oil stabilizer and the one I prefer is the Lucas brand. ( I know,. I hate plugs ) The
maunal calls for 5W-30 but under heat and pressure most
motor oils can liquify too much, hence the oil stabilizer.
Caution: ensure your oil sender and gauge is calibrated to
within reason, and don't overdo it with the Lucas stuff ( 1/3 bottle will do in most cases ). Also in summer months I tend to blend QUALITY motor oils of the same brand but different visc rating - sometimes 20W-40/50 and my oil pressure is now quite healty at idle. My big problem with the German Caddy is the front facia is a tad low. Ouch !
Thanks
Tony Rinella
I just replaced my brakes and rotors on the front. I ran in to a couple of problems. The rotors are secured by an extra allen type bolt used during assembly. Both were seized up so I drilled off the head of the bolt. I used some cobalt drill bits and they cut through it like butter. After putting the new rotor on I snapped off a bolt that holds the caliper on. The local Lowes had a replacement.
I've had reasonably good luck with my `00 Catera since I've bought it ~3 years ago(knock on wood). The CSPS was the biggest repair although I've had a coolant leak on the driver side around the time of purchase and can't remember exactly what it was they fixed. Whatever it was the dealership said it was a fairly common problem. I'm at 96k miles so I'm sure the worst is to come. I'll keep you updated.
there is a snap on type trunk lid liner, must this be taken off ? I'm afraid if I do take it off the plastic snaps will break ..as they often do and the liner will not attatch as secure.
Thanks
this seems really strange, but my heater / defrost / rw defogger will not come on untill the car is put in Drive gear
and go mabey 20 feet or so.
It's getting COLD here in Wisconsin and I would like to warm up and defog / defrost ' BEFORE ' I pull out of the drive way and into moving traffic. tried auto mode, manual mode and " NADA " any help would be mucho appreciated.
Did warranty expire because of in service date or miles?
When did you purchase car [exact date] and from dealer?
i got a 97 catera and my break pad wear light and the radiator light came on. I changed my breaks but the problem still there. Matter of fact, while driving when i step on the breaks, the wheel shakes...anybody out there, please help.
thank you...
PS: my 2000 Catera is still running strong with 98k miles, with no electrical problems.
#297 of 406
Lets Shed Some Light on the issues by caddyguy1 May 05, 2007 (6:35 am) 
Total Posts: 1
Member Since:
May 05, 2007
Replying to: cissie (May 04, 2007 5:18 am)
Hello I am a master certified GM technician. Not currently in a GM dealership I work at a BMW/MINI dealership. I worked at a Cadillac dealership for about 6 years.
First of all Cateras are not that hard to work on. Many GM technicians have problems with it b/c they are used to GM this is not a GM it is basically an Opel which is German.
Let me tell you guys a few of the problems these cars have
Battery Draw---Check the rear defroster relay (they stick)
Oil Leaks---Valve Covers and Head Gaskets
Coolant Leaks---Water control valve, Head gasket, oil cooler cover
Problems with Oil Pressure----Pressure sensor or the actual gauge(it can be replaced separate of the whole cluster)
Coolant Light stays on---replace the jug it has a sensor (or sometimes you can beat on it and it will go out)
No start---crank sensor (only replaced on fuel pump in 6 years on a catera)
Rough Running---Pull spark plug boot check for leaking valve covers. Also the ignition coils would go bad on these.
Cant get vehicle out of park---Needs the Shifter assembly.
Have not seen a whole lot of transmission issues.
Noise from front of Engine----most likely timing belt related.
I have replaced a lot of A/C control panels.
I have replaced a few a/c door actuators for air not blowing out of proper position.
I have replaced quite a few brake light switches.
I have replaced few wheels speed sensors
I have replaced quite a few o2 sensors.
I have seen a few Air Injection faults.
As I said these cars are German with some GM influence. Thing is Saab uses the same engine as the 3.0 catera and had not had half the problems the catera has. These car are not hard to fix, can be tricky to diagnose.
I have several problems with my 2000 Catera, but now I want to ask if somebody had the same problem. When I drive my Catera for some time, after shutting down the engine I cannot start it again for a half hour. I have to wait a the it would start again. Could you tell me what is happening?
This forum has alot of good info on it.