Mechanic's Tools: Anything and Everything

wtd44 · November 2001

If an amateur does ONE set of rear brakes ONE time, the savings pays for the gauge (Kastar Hand Tools, Racine, Wisconsin) and then some. I can't imagine shaving the arc of the shoes to perfection in matching the drum, but it is plainly obvious that the two arcs do not match perfectly until the brakes run in.

isellhondas · November 2001

Arc grinders were a thing of the past?

Ah...the clouds of asbestos dust!

0patience · November 2001

Arc grinding, hasn't been done for many years.
That is a thing of the past.
OSHA and DEQ would have fits if anyone still did that.

wtd44 · November 2001

Somewhere around the garage, I have a functional brake lining riveter. I recall my father helping me use it years ago (age14) to reline brake shoes for an old Harley I had. Aside: Man, did my father hate that Harley! He said it was pure trash. I got a BSA at age 16, and he approved of that machine. (:o>

alcan · November 2001

My odometer just clicked over. I used to rivet new linings onto Olds brake shoes in the '60's.
Ever use that handy tool for pulling the upper half of GM rope rear main seals into place? LOL

wtd44 · November 2001

I am aware of the procedure, but I have never done it. I have, however, driven the length of the "Alcan."

wishnhigh1 · November 2001

Recently I had the pleasure/trouble of taking a bearing out of 993. The tool we were using was a beast and a horrendous chore. I felt like I was doing more damage to the car than a new bearing would help. Is there some kind of bearing removal press that would aid in removing the bearings off of cars while the suspension is still intact? Maybe some kind of hydrolic pump or something?

rs_petty · December 2001

I am trying to decide on new tool set (my wife says I'm worse than her with furniture

). I really wanted to stay with one brand name rather than have different brands. Craftsman quality is ok with me, but I really don't like the ratchets that come with the sets (open face with exposed snap ring ?? and what a rough action). My other choice is the Kobalt brand from Williams (Division of Snap-On). Problem with Kobalt is range of sizes of wrenches and sockets and choices of 6 and 12 points in all the sizes. What problems occur down the road when different tool brands are mixed? Any advice on tool chests? I have several boxes of stuff I'd like to consolidate in one place. Are ball-bearing slides really necessary? Get the biggest one you can afford (40 in wide) or is the 26 inch wide chest ok for home hobbyist? The only reason, other than pure storage space, I can think of for the wider chests are long tools like prybars. Any help is appreciated.

isellhondas · December 2001

Sears sells different grades of tools. Some of the wrenches are now full polish. They look and feel great and aren't clubs like some of their other stuff. SK makes these for them. I also think thier higher line sockets are just fine for most applications.

And, don't worry about mixing brands...who cares? Most professionals do this.

They might perfer Mac wrenches but buy Snap-On sockets etc.

Also, the higher end toolboxes from Sears are much improved. I looked at a nice set of boxes at Costco the other day that were top quality and priced very well.

wtd44 · December 2001

I have a couple of MAC ratchet wrenches that are superb, and I really like the high-polish ratchet wrenches made by DANAHER under several brand names, such as NAPA and ALLEN. these are all top quality and hard to beat. Have you looked at the KOBALT tool cabinets? They look good, and are expensive. I have gotten excellent service from Sears Craftsman cabinets over the years, and consider them the best bang for the buck. I feel that the ball-bearing drawer suspension systems are very nice, but unnecessary.

rs_petty · December 2001

I like the Kobalt stuff. They have a 40" cabinet and chest combo I really like. I'm thinking now that Kobalt is the central working pieces of the tool set and then add what I need from whomever over time. But, I recently started searching for some plans to make a tool cabinet from wood. A good reason for a table saw.

wtd44 · December 2001

Sounds like a good plan! Some years back I bought a Ryobi table saw that appeared to be quite precision. After a couple years, I sold it and went back to the contractor style table saw by Delta. It looks less "precision" but it is a whole lot better in EVERY respect than the Ryobi, and I have never regretted correcting my prior mistake.
I found those Kobalt cabinets very attractive. Let us know if you go for it! (:^]

phelpsg · January 2002

I just bought a 5 hp 26 gallon extreme duty Campbell Hausfeld compressor that came in a value pack with a 250 ft lb rated 1/2" impact wrench. The compressor is great but the wrench is so weak that it barely removes lug nuts that I torqued by hand. I'm thinking of buying a IR 231 wrench with 425 ftlbs of torque but there's this new aircat wrench that has 640 ftlb rating. I want something that zips off lug nut fast. Can anyone make a recommendation?

0patience · January 2002

Well, I am biased, but I prefer the IR.
I have about a few IR-231 air wrenches, with the oldest around 18 years old. If they wear, I buy new parts for them and they are good as new.
Never heard of an aircat, but if you are looking for power the new Ingersoll composite air wrench is around that 600 ft lb rating.

I can tell you this though, if you do any major work, it won't matter what air wrench you get, that compressor won't keep up. If you are only doing a little at a time, it will work fine.
Taking lug nuts off one wheel will suck that 26 gallons down in no time.

phelpsg · January 2002

This is for home use and the biggest job would be to rotate my tires. The compressor is rated at
5.7 cfm @ 90lbs and I believe the IR 231 uses an average of around 4.2 cfm @ 90lbs. I should be okay. Do you agree?

0patience · January 2002

You should be ok, but if you run into some lug nuts that are over tightened, you may run into problems.
Air wrenches pull alot of air when trying to get a tight bolt loose. IRs are pretty good about knocking lug nuts loose, but like I said, that 26 gallons is going to disappear fast. You may find yourself having to wait every once in a while for the air to build back up. I've been spoiled by a 12 hp, 80 gallon 175 psi compressor.

wtd44 · January 2002

"...but the wrench is so weak that it barely removes lug nuts that I torqued by hand."

I strongly suspect you have a defective, although new, impact wrench. I assume you have checked to see if the torque output is adjustable, and if so, it is turned all the way up. I also assume you have not super tightened the lugs you are attempting to now break loose.
I have a similar home setup that I have been using for over 15 years for tire service on my vehicles. Your new stuff really should be quite adequate for that level of use, if everything is up to par and ready to roll.
Oh! Be sure you have the air pressure turned up to 90+ lbs of line pressure! (:^>

phelpsg · January 2002

I think the air wrench is just weak rather than defective because I went back to dealer that sold me the air compressor and they gave me a brand new air wrench, same model, and it wasn't any better.

Also, I do have the power setting as high as it will go and the air pressure at 90+ although I'm afraid to go over 95lbs of pressure because the manual with the wrench said that it would be dangerous.

It will take the lug nuts off, it just takes forever and I'm talking about lug nuts I torqued by hand at 90 to 95 lbs. The wrench is a low end Campbell Hausfeld which claims to have ultimate torque of 250 lbs. Can't be much because you can buy a new one for 30 bucks. Its a model #TL1002 standard duty wrench.

oldharry · January 2002

Did you put some good air tool oil in that cheap wrench? I oil mine a couple times a week, and can tell the difference. I have a couple Ingersols, and a couple CP's (Chicago Pneumatic). The CP's are lighter, and not quite as loud as the Ingersols, but when you need power the Ingersol delivers. I run shop air to peak at 180 psi, and the compressor starts when it drops to 150. With an 80 gal compressor, the bead seating tanks on two tire machines and the 3/4" plumbing to air hose connections, I seldom have to wait for my 5 hp 3 phase compressor.

Harry

phelpsg · January 2002

Did you put some good air tool oil in that cheap wrench?

I oiled it before using like the manual instructed and I used Campbell Hausfeld oil since that the brand of wrench. I've only used it once and oiled again before putting it away.

I still don't understand why a 250 ft lb rated wrench struggles to remove a lug nut that I torqued to 90 lbs by hand. The air pressure is there so it has to be the wrench.

wtd44 · January 2002

There just simply is something we are overlooking. Is the hose obstructed a bit? Devise a test to see if you are not delivering as much air as we are all presuming. Test other air tools. Run a different KNOWN-to-be-good impact wrench on your rig, etc. Beyond that, I guess returning the package for refund as unsuitable is about all that is left.

rs_petty · January 2002

I'm comparing some tool sets. One of the big differences is the availability of 32d inch socket sizes in 1/4" drive. I don't remember ever having run across this size in most auto work and would probably find a MM size socket to work fine. How important are these size sockets?

Is there any real world difference between 6 pt and 12 pt sockets? Do you really need both?

If you have a good set of combination wrenches do you need to also have a set of box end and open end in the same sizes? Or is this just preference?

If you were putting together a new tool set what would be the size and range of sockets and wrenches you would look for that would cover say 90% of mechanic requirements on modern day (60's to present) cars?

andre1969 · January 2002

My mechanic let me borrow his distributor wrench so I could play around with the timing on my '89 Gran Fury. The back of the engine sits so close to the firewall, and there's so much junk piled around the distributor that it's amost impossible to get to otherwise. But this wrench made it a snap!

It's got a number on the side that reads "1/2 S 94 MAC USA 12". I asked the mechanic, and he said that wrench is probably older than I am! Anyway, the thing's about 18" long, and has an extra-wide bend in it to clear the distributor. He said it's designed for Mopar engines, and is a little different from the wrench used for GM engines.

Anybody got any ideas? This wrench looks like it would be a cool thing to have!

0patience · January 2002

rs_petty,
Most requirements for mechanics are that they have a set from 1/4" - 1 1/8" and from 6mm - 22mm

andre1969,
That tool is made by MAC tools, they have a website and you should be able to get that tool still from them.

andre1969 · January 2002

I didn't know if MAC still made this particular tool or not. I just tried their website, and it looks like their online store is down, but at least I have a starting point. I had gone rooting through my Granddad's old tool sets, and found a few distributor wrenches, but none of them fit. I remember he had one, that looked like a 1/2" wrench he just bent himself, that I used to use on my '68 Dart and other Mopars. But this Gran Fury is just too tight of a squeeze for that thing!

isellhondas · January 2002

Distributor wrenches and timing lights are becoming a thing of the past.

Mac may still make that wrench but I wouldn't be surprised if they have dropped it. Unless they sell a certain quanity of something, they will discontinue it.

fleetwoodsimca · January 2002

A few months back, a friend brought over his 1981 Chevy, wanting to time it. I got out a "brand new" timing light that I bought many years ago as a just-in-case item. I was happy to get to finally use it! As you said, there is little call for such anymore.

andre1969 · January 2002

...I guess the fact that my mechanic let me borrow his distributor wrench and take it home with me is a pretty good indication that he doesn't use it much. He just said "bring it back Monday or Tuesday or whenever you get a chance."

0patience · January 2002

isellhondas,
Not really. Distributer wrenches have other uses and are being used still. Not to mention, there are still alot of vehicles that have distributers.
As for the timing lights, they are being used still, but in a different way. Alot of mechanics will use them for diagnosing throttle body injectors. See, the timing light is like putting a strobe on the injector spray to see how well it is spraying.

Granted, some of these tools will be used less and less, but they will usually find a use for them.

andre1969 · January 2002

...my mechanic said he used the distributor wrench he lent me for something else as well, but I forget. For some reason I'm thinking he said oil pump, but not sure. If nothing else, it's a pretty nifty tool for getting into awkward positions!

isellhondas · January 2002

Well, you are correct I guess about the distributor wrenches. Still, they are VERY slow sellers. Didn't know about that use for timing lights...interesting.

Now...If I could find a use for my old Fox Valley dwell tach!

fleetwoodsimca · January 2002

Are we going to have to revive some junk from the wrecking yards in order to have vehicles upon which to exercise our "tool collections?"
Update: Isell: My old dwell meter is an RAC Maxi Tune. It looks pretty lonely out in that drawer. Has anyone out there developed a use for dwell tachs? (aside from paper weight, boat anchor, etc.) (:^þ

vcheng · January 2002

I need to adjust the headlights on a 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan. The headlight aim adjusters appear to be ordinary hexheads, but a diameter smaller than 4 mm, probably 3 mm. Is there a 3 mm socket or some other special tool needed for this? I cannot locate anything smaller than a 4 mm. Any helpful information will be appreciated.

isellhondas · January 2002

Make sure you find the right size or you will bugger the screws out!

vcheng · January 2002

better than to bugger the screws.... hence the posting here

Any ideas where to find a 3 mm socket?

0patience · January 2002

I am pretty sure that Carquest and NAPA carry the tool for the headlight adjustment.
Either that or chase down the local Snap-on tool dealer.

fleetwoodsimca · January 2002

That wouldn't happen to be a star bit that you need instead of an Allen hex, would it?

vcheng · January 2002

but it sure didn't look like a torx starhead to me the first time.

fleetwoodsimca · January 2002

Can you "adapt" a typical automotive paint spray gun so that you can successfully spray water base (latex) house paint through it? If this is not unreasonable to do, then how do you do it?

0patience · January 2002

The electric house paint sprayers work the best for latex.
Latex is fairly thick and it would come out blotchy with an automotive spray gun.

fleetwoodsimca · February 2002

Some while back, I hit a close-out sale and bought several of the electric, airless spray guns of the type you mentioned, except that mine are (according to the instructions) for spraying oil based paints only. I have found no experts that can really get to the bottom of this, but it appears to me that the problem is the water in latex paint. These cheap sprayers may rust or corrode from water? Another possibility may be the orifice in the spray head. I get the idea that latex requires a bigger spray hole and the sprayer will deteriorate rapidly if the nozzle is not stainless. Hmmmmmmm! Any thoughts on this? I am willing to sacrifice a sprayer in the name of "science." (:oÞ

0patience · February 2002

Latex will clog an automotive sprayer right away.
Every airless sprayer I have seen is for latex and oil based stains.
I don't know, but there really aren't alot of oil based paints left anymore.
Still quite a few oil based stains, but the enviromentalists have almost pushed the oil based stains out. Even the striping on the highways are going to a water based paint, which lasts very little compared to the oil based paints.
I wish I knew the answer to that, but I don't.

fleetwoodsimca · February 2002

I guess I'll have to get unlazy and brush paint the back deck. I may try porting the spray nozzle with a numbered index drill bit. If I try it, I'll report the results! I used one of these cheap sprayers to freshen up a utility trailer's steel frame with machinery enamel (oil based) and it worked out fine. (:oÞ

rs_petty · February 2002

What are pros and cons of materials for storing tools? I'm thinking just for a home garage where the tool chest just sits against a wall most of the time that wood (MDF actually) would be just fine.

fleetwoodsimca · April 2002

Having tried a few examples of several alternatives, I have come to own mostly CRAFTSMAN roller cabinets and top chests. I also have stored tools in wooden cabinets and built-in storage. I guess it just comes down to what suits you.

0patience · April 2002

The problem with wood is that you have to protect it extremely well. If you have grease or oil on the tools, it will soak into the wood and eventually the wood starts to breakdown.
Once oil has been spilled on the wood, there is no way to get it all up. It will soak into the wood.

fleetwoodsimca · April 2002

That is a good point, and now that you mention it, I have seen the same deterioration. Have you noticed that there seems to be a major manufacturer of metal tool cabinets that makes Craftsman and many others, and that these similar units under various brand names seem to be the optimal offerings in the market? For example, I have a NAPA top chest that certainly seems to have come from the same manufacturer as Craftsman. Two or three years ago I bought a roller cabinet and top chest from Home Depot, and noted it was of different character. It turned out that I discovered those to be made in Canada.

w2323 · April 2002

Hi,

I have a 1995 Toyota Corolla, I had a used engine put in that cost me $1900.00. When I received the car back the mechanic told mthey had to remove the transmission because they forgot to shim the engine and it was faster to remove and shim the transmission.

I drove the car for about 2 hours and the ransmission stoped functioning. I brought it back and they didnt want to hear about the transmission problem, they did tell me they would put in a used transmission for the part price only which did me little good.

What I'm asking is should they even remove the transmission at all when they put in an engine? According to my Haybes repair manual you shouldnt have to.

Can anyone help me on this one? It's impossible to get a local mechanic to look at the car unless they open the trans for 6 hours of labor.

I guess what I'm asking for is some feedbak, and perhaps if possible a statement from a mechanic saying this should not have been done this way.

To me it seems to very apparent what has occured, but all the disupte people I spoke to give me problems.

If anyone can help me I'd appreciate it. Please email me at gungadin_@yahoo.com

Thanks for any assistance,
Scott

fleetwoodsimca · April 2002

You have posted this under the wrong topic. You might try posting it under a title that has to do with Toyota Corolla problems, which I see you have. Good luck.

oldharry · April 2002

Last month I bought an Ingersol 2131QT impact wrench. It really is quieter than previous models, and with its composition housing lighter.

Harry

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