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Toyota Truck Owners: Problems & Solutions
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Thanks for your posting, I thought I was hearing things for the first year of owning my 2003 Tundra LTD 4WD V8 and the dealer kept giving me a lot of B.S. about it. Such as not being able to reproduce the sound or they couldn't hear it due to the wind noise coming from my roof racks and the finally the one that one caused me to yell and scream at the morons at the service dept. was they found my tires to be under inflated. They even claimed to have test driven the truck and had solved the problem. Needless to say, when I picked up the truck the next day, it still had the same issue. Even more concerning was the fact that my odometer had not even moved a Mile. I wish I had written the mileage down to the tenth but the dealer notes it on the work order only to the mile. They claimed that they only drove it up and down the block and conceivably went less than a mile. That was enough for me to go off the handle and a start yelling at them for lying to me and avoiding the issue. I couldn't believe they had the nerve to defend their diagnosis of low tire pressure after bringing the truck in for 3 times over a year with the same complaint. After the first time I realized I had to leave it there overnight and that became an inconvienance even though I have an extra car that I drive every day and use the truck mostly for long trips and Home Depot runs. Well eventually, I took one of their senior mechanics for a test drive with me. He happened to own two Tundras and took me seriously. Knowing a lot about auto mechanics I understood that intermittent problems like this can be difficult to diagnose and I was not expecting a miracle. The mechanic agreed it was from the front dive train but found no TSB on it. He did report it to regional Service dude (don't remember his official title) and they noted on my service record so I would be covered if something became of this after warranty. That was really all I was hoping for outside of a quick solution like a bearing replacement or extra lube. The mechanic whose name I should mention was "Kippy" according to his shirt, recalled the exact symptoms coming from an older version of the 4runner that used a brass (might have been bronze) bushing at the end of the front shafts. Well the dissimilar metals were affected by temperature differently but once it warmed up they were fine. The Tundras use a completely different drive train. The solution Toyota came up with was to create some special grease tool to lube the bushing. Anyhow, it was good to finally get somone to take me seriously. I was also told that it would be reported to Toyota engineering and I mentioned that I found several posts on the net of Tundra owners with the same problem. I told Kippy about the efforts you made to narrow down the source of the noise (which is really more of a vibration - during my test drive it was the first time I was passanger in my truck and I had a hard time noticing it but when you're driving you certainly can feel it). I was going to do the same until I read you post.
It was disappointing to be treated like that by a Toyota dealer. I would expect it from a local gas station but the dealer I take my two new Toyotas for service. When I took my tundra in after a year for an inspection I brought my wife with me and ended up with a 2004 Camry XLE V6 for her. Overall love both my new Toyotas but stay on top of the dealer and let me know if they find a soloution for the Tundra issue.
And you'll space down just like this. It makes those long posts so much easier to read. Thanks and good luck with your Toyotas.
james
Mechanic said it was only dirty then cleaned it. When I got back to my job site, two co-workers told me that its very simple to do and it could be done by anybody. They've cleaned their's and they'd show me how. Needless to say I felt ripped off. (wonder if it was an honest shop now)
Which brings me to my point; are we the consumer being ripped-off when it comes to throttle body issues. Could this be another "green-machine" for Toyota? What do ya'll think?
Texas Tony
Less than three weeks later I received a check from them for the full price of both sensors plus labor. Exactly what I paid for both, plus tax.
The secret: be able to produce legible & authentic receipts!
This was sporadic, but now I can count on it whenever I hit the gas.
New fuel filter, plugs, plug wires, ig. coil, and timing chain.
Any suggestions would be appreciated!
Curtmann in So Cal.
In reading all the different forums I know that it was posulated to have come from Cab attachment bolts or the suspension something. Cant find where I read this. Does anyone have a diagnosis?
Thanks a bunch.
B
Problem description:
1 - Power loss when rpms go over 3000rpm after warming up, usually 10-15 minutes of driving.
2 - Truck runs great when cold. The fact that it runs great when cold is what seems so puzzling on this problem.
3 - The truck will not rev over 3000rpm after it warms up. Its almost like it has a governer or something. Sputters and cuts out.
4 - Happens regardless of uphill or downhill, grade has nothing to do with it.
5 - Happens in any gear and\or neutral, same thing, over 3000 rpms, cuts out like its not getting gas, coughs and chokes over 3000rpm. No power whatsoever.
6 - Cleaned the MAF (mass air flow - the small sensor between the the aircleaner box and throttle body) and cleaned the throttle body (with throttle body cleaner) after those cleanings the truck seemed to run smoother and a little stronger but ended up doing the same thing after warming up.
7 - unplugged the battery (thinking we could "reset" the problem if it was computer related, same thing.
8 - Installed new fuel filter, still having problem.
9 - Talked to a toyota mechanic, he said to clean or replace the MAF which we did.
10 - Fuel pump? Toyota mechanic said we'd be able to hear it and should be be more noticable if the truck is going up hill, this can't be the problem...
11 - Visual inspection of plug wires, they look good. They have the year 1999 on them. Thought about changing these but that wouldn't be making this problem happen? only after warming up? Trying not to spend a small fortune replacing parts and finding it doesn't end up fixing the problem...
12 - Stop off for gas or shut it off for about 5-10 minutes and problem disappears until it warms up again. Temp gauge normal. How weird!
Thanks for any help anyone can offer.
Power loss, cuts out and acts like not getting fuel anytime over 3000rpm!!!!
HELP! Can't find the problem with my 2000 Toyota Tacoma 2.7L 4WD with 175k miles.
Problem description:
1 - Power loss when rpms go over 3000rpm after warming up, usually 10-15 minutes of driving.
2 - Truck runs great when cold. The fact that it runs great when cold is what seems so puzzling on this problem.
3 - The truck will not rev over 3000rpm after it warms up. Its almost like it has a governer or something. Sputters and cuts out.
4 - Happens regardless of uphill or downhill, grade has nothing to do with it.
5 - Happens in any gear and\or neutral, same thing, over 3000 rpms, cuts out like its not getting gas, coughs and chokes over 3000rpm. No power whatsoever.
6 - Cleaned the MAF (mass air flow - the small sensor between the the aircleaner box and throttle body) and cleaned the throttle body (with throttle body cleaner) after those cleanings the truck seemed to run smoother and a little stronger but ended up doing the same thing after warming up.
7 - unplugged the battery (thinking we could "reset" the problem if it was computer related, same thing.
8 - Installed new fuel filter, still having problem.
9 - Talked to a toyota mechanic, he said to clean or replace the MAF which we did.
10 - Fuel pump? Toyota mechanic said we'd be able to hear it and should be be more noticable if the truck is going up hill, this can't be the problem...
11 - Visual inspection of plug wires, they look good. They have the year 1999 on them. Thought about changing these but that wouldn't be making this problem happen? only after warming up? Trying not to spend a small fortune replacing parts and finding it doesn't end up fixing the problem...
12 - Stop off for gas or shut it off for about 5-10 minutes and problem disappears until it warms up again. Temp gauge normal. How weird!
Thanks for any help anyone can offer.
Good luck,
TakeOut
I am getting regular battery voltage of about 11.5 to 12.8 volts all the time. The voltage at the Altenator output is the same, all the time.
My son, says that the alternator always should be putting out 13.5 to 14.5 volts when the car is running. I said that the regulator will turn off or lower the output from the alt when batt is charged.
QUESTION: Does the alt reduce it's output voltage wise, when the batt is charged? or does the voltage at the output terminal always stay at 14 volts roughly?
Thanks for reading.
TakeOut
That way, you'll know for sure. (My bet is the alternator is going bad but I've seen alternators mess up when the battery is going bad....so the check will let you know.)
Good Luck!
Boo
My son-in-law volunteered to do it since my foot is injured, and will take it to get it tested.
TakeOut
I have a 2004 Tundra V6, and I bought the anti-freeze from the Toyota dealer. The color of my anti-freeze is PINK (long time & anti-corrosion type), $17/gallon.
UCSC
Hopefully you have had scheduled work done on time with documentation and ideally by a Toyota service department. Toyota, like most manufacturers, will promptly blow you off if work was performed somewhere else when a warranty issue arises. Good luck and please post Toyota's response.
I live in New England and travel rural roads.
THE PROBLEM IS THIS: SHIFTING FROM 1ST GEAR THROUGH 3RD GEAR IS ALRIGHT. BUT AS SOON
AS I SHIFT TO 4TH GEAR THE ENGINE STALLS OUT.
IT KEEPS STALLING ONCE IT IS IN 4TH. ANY IDEAS
OF WHAT THE PROBLEM COULD BE?
Anyway here is what we found on our Tundra after 55,000 kms and 9 months.
the toyota handles as well as the chevy on gravel roads.( better at higher speeds). The new fords with the ifs are too light and tend to bounce all over. the 4x4's are much better. I notice on Toyotas that they have that bounce in the first couple of inches of travel, it almost feels uneasy at first, but handles much better with a load. My sister has a t100 and it feels the same way. We have the off road package, shocks are good (even now) but tires might make good psuedo off-roaders.
Tires were replaced at 15,000 kms for Yokohama Geolanders 10 ply rating. There is hardly any wear on them yet, but it is still winter up and tires tend to last longer. Most miles I ever put on were on Yokes at 100,000 in same conditions.
The Toy developed a squeak in the driveline and found it was a hanger bearing. I had a local garage look at the problem, call the dealer and promptly order a new replacementunder warranty.The mechanic said one of the ball bearings fell out and told me to use until the part came in. Four months and some 20,000 kms later I am still traveling with a hanger bearing with one ball missing because I had forgotten about the replacement bearing. It took so long. I just found out two weeks ago that it did come in but i hav'nt had a chance to get it installed. I am 5 hours from the garage.
The Toy does not start as well in sub zero temperatures. the Fords and Chevys are good in this department. My Toy struggles at starting without it being plugged in at -30 degree C. Heat in cab is good but distribution to the back is to be desired. The thermometer only works to -30C by the way. We traveled in -40 weather and the temp told us in was only -30.(t-shirt weather, i quess they don't see those temps in Texas where this Toy came out of)
The box in the Tundra is too small but we knew this at the start. We wanted the cab space which is way better then the other guys. The box however is too small and I find the material used is too soft. After a season of treeplanting the box is all dented up and pushed against the cab causing an annoying sqeak. I have had to pull it away from the cab. I will have to get it reinforced if I am to continue using it as I have.
Gas mileage is somewhat disappointing. We get about 18-20 miles per gal.(our gallons are bigger up here), granted I may be spoiled from my old 6.2 diesel. I suppose i can drive slower and see better numbers, but hey, up here you gotta drive 3-4 hours to see the next town. I use premium synthetic oil at slightly extended intervals from recommended. (10k vs 6k).
Just last night I had the power steering hose let loose but I suspect I may have overloaded the truck. I had about thirty cases of pop and water and get this, eight teenagers in the truck from the local arena. Sort of epitomizes the Indian reserve truck. (note: i am not inviting slurs of any kind, i am proud Cree.) The hose is the low pressure one and basically just slipped off.
Needless to say I am happy with the truck so far, I hope it retains its' guality feeling after 400-500,000 kms on our roads. We tend to keep our vehicles till they drop. Oh my dealer is a days drive away and I hav'nt seen them once since i purchased the truck. I bought the extended warranty to 200,000 kms and the reason i bought was our concern for major breakdowns like tranny or motor although my sisters toy is ten years old (6 cyl), 300,000 and still gets clear oil at changes. I hope to see ours that way although those extra valves tend to have more of that valve train noise. I noticed that from day one. It is reminiscent of the Honda Accord sound.
Someone mentioned in one of the threads that braking was loud. I find the ABS very loud and sounds like Tigger in Winnie the Pooh when he bounces. I hear alot of that noise because we are virtually on ice 80% of the time. this place is a good testing ground for ABS systems.
that's my two cents in case you guys were interested...
I have had to chain up all four tires on my 88 toy xtracab just to move.
Some of the roads are very side hilly and at times I need chains so this is starting to worry me a little. Ron
I very much enjoyed reading about a lifestyle way up North that is so different from mine.
May your Toyota serve you well for a long time.
Regards,
ss4
Has anyone else seen this problem before? Any ideas or solutions?
MikeS.
I did find that you have to hit the disarm button on the remote AND open and close a door to shut it down completely.
And if you think it would help, I can post what the dealer has to say about it for you.
B
Good luck to all.
Any thoughts?