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This is a fairly heavy car -- 3600 lbs, IIRC. The AWD adds some weight, but amazingly little for what it does and compared to "real" 4WD -- it's about 150 lbs, IIRC. It is not the most fuel efficient commuter car available, but a better choice than all the gargantuan SUVs out there.
The reality is that until the perceived costs (not just dollars, but all the costs) become greater than our collective willingness to pay those costs for the benefits we perceive we are getting, fuel mileage in general is not going to improve. While I would like to see the federal CAFE standards increase, I know that the laws of Economics (and human nature) make it unlikely. If gasoline does hit $3/gallon this summer, all my neighbors with Suburbans, Expeditions, Durangos and Hummers better not complain within my earshot.
--K9Leader
The best I have gotten was 27 MPG on a long trip, no roof racks, summer tires, no rain, no wind etc... and CC set on 68 mph.
Longer warm-up time a winter blend gas seem to hurt the mpg a fair amount. I'm not one to let the car warm up much at all. 30sec. or so and I'm moving. 1 mile of city streets (25-30mph) and then interstate... Seems I can almost watch the gas gauge go down when the engine is cold.
-jay
Those numbers aren't necessarily bad.
-juice
But lets face facts. Even if fuel prices were to double, the financial break even point in selling a car and buying a more fuel efficient one is way out there due to a big hit in depreciation. Sell a 2 year old car and buy a new one and you are out $5k or more. That would buy a lot of gasoline.... A gas shortage might be another situation. In 1979 I parked my Mercury Montego and bought a Ford Fiesta just as a matter of survival.
Steve
I just bought a used 03 legacy SE ( the same one with leather interior I asked about earlier for 17,000$ maybe coulda gotten a better deal but was tired of hagling and well the wife really liked it so what the hell )
any how what can I do to maximize my usage? synthetic OIL?? the car has now approx 9000 mi. also what is the break in period I keep reading about? finally any tips from owners so i can keep it as long as possible. I want to drive her until she won't go any further.
Someone else can chime in with synthetic oil I have never used, or considered until recently.
I love the oil wars :-)
Engine Oil - A slippery subject Part 2
Synthetic motor oil
I don't dump my oil out every 3,000 miles either but follow the factory recommendation for normal service. And I drive them forever. Or try too :-)
Steve, Host
The system should be sealed air tight. Does the pedal feel spongy?
I'd let them look at it again, you can't take chances with your brakes. Any leak and you'd potentially lose all stopping power.
-juice
Greg
As per the brake situation,I am taking the car in tomorrow first thing in the morning.
Greg
One of those works on my Honda, the other on the Subaru. It's a function to keep the passenger doors locked when you're alone.
Have them take a look at the switch itself..that is my problem.
-mike
I had the car towed to Somerset Subaru in New Brunswick, NJ. I can't say enough about how great the people there were. They were honest, fair, and were able to diagnose & fix my car about 2 hours...without an appointment (obviously). I highly recommend them.
They had to replace the radiator and the thermostat. A radiator shouldn't be going bad in a car that's only got 31,000 miles...should it...? I was wondering if anyone else had this same type of problem
New radiator? Sure, let them. I'd ask for the coolant conditioner as well, which can prevent future leaks.
Bleeding that system was a great idea, it can add a sponginess to the feel of the pedal. Fluid won't last much longer than 30k anyway, then it starts to absorb water and gets discolored.
My guess is that'll address the problem.
-juice
-mike
It initially began when he turned off the ignition. As soon as the engine stopped, the doors would lock, or if they were already locked, he would hear the actuators try and pull the buttons down again. Then on occasion, if he would exit the car while it was running and close the drivers door, he would find himself locked out when he returned. Now he hears the locks buzzing almost any time he moves the ignition switch.
Early on I suggested that he try and remove the key fob transmitter from within range of the car, which he did, but that didn't help any.
Any thoughts on where to look for shorted wires?
Steve
Greg
My dealership currently has the driver's door switch on order for me. I have to say, it is good to hear that other's cars are possessed too!
They rewired the system so I can only unlock my doors and not lock them any longer. I have 46,000 miles but I purchased the added Security so mine is covered. If not, they may charge a lot of labor for it.
Greg - know any good priests, ministers, rabbis, shakes, etc. that are willing to do auto exorcisms?
Steve
Greg
Tap the areas around the power-lock button to discount the switch circuit at the door.
In the case of pathtomax, it does appear that it is the remote keyless module, i.e. "security system going off a few times". The security system is activated by the keyless module, which sends pulse(s) to arm/disarm. This pulse is in addition and separate from the pulse that activates the power-lock. If you push the unlock button when the security is armed, the alarm will not sound until the door is open, when the keyless module [malfunction] sends the unlock pulse without disarming the security, the alarm will sound off because the interior domelight is activated and the security sees it as the door being opened.
-Dave
I was shocked to see the extend of problems with Subarus overheating due to head gaskets or other problems (phase I mostly but also phase II). I guess this explains the poor engine reliability score Subaru gets for pre-2000 models in the most recent CR issue.
This will make me more follow the water temp gauge more closely. Any ideas how to teach a significant other (my wife is a primary sub driver) to pay attention to instruments?
-juice
'01 Outback Limited, ? miles, no problem
'02 Legacy L, 21k miles, no problem
'03 Forester X, ? miles, no problem
Just some data points. )
-juice
Patti
Thanks!
Patti
Lots of other problems but no overheating.
On topic, I keep track of my fill-ups but haven't calculated the mpg all that often since I got my '97 OB about a year ago. Today I did, and it was a bit over 25 mpg. Since gas is up to $1.85 this week, I'm happy.
Steve, Host
Thanks for the "clean-up" Steve. That kinda caught me out of the blue.
Patti
Steve, Host
(1) How can I clean the lens/inside of the changer? (I've blown compressed air in there to no avail)
(2) How easy is it to remove/replace this unit (Ebay!)? Any instructions on the internet? I'm sure some fellow Soobie-fanatic has already done this (or installed his/her own).
(3) Similar problems, anybody?
I would really appreciate the help! The car is awesome, but now I miss my music on those long drives...
You can buy lens cleaners for CD players, I would be temped to try one of those first.
Craig
Steve
I had my 03 Legacy Wagon serviced on Thursday. I had the 30K check-up/workover. All went well for the ride home Thursday, I didnt use the car much on Friday and only briefly ran to the market yesterday.
Today, I left to do some errands. The car ran OK for about 2 miles to the store where I got the Sunday paper.
Then it ran real rough, idling hard and seemed to be on the edge of stalling.
I noticed the Check Engine light flashing.
I immediately drove home. Called the dealer and got a salesman (service dept is closed on Sunday). He assured me he was likely not a big deal and told me to bring the car in first thing tomorrow. I left a voice mail with the service manager telling him I would be coming in early.
Are any posters familiar with this?
What does it sound like it could be?
Is there any reason to be alarmed?
Thanks in advance for those who offer advice (and counsel.)
David
For the last several months, I've had a 'rattle' in the left rear ... It is NOT a loose seat, a loose seat belt, anything under the seats, anything in the cargo area, or anywhere else that I can see inside the car ... it sounds like it is coming from the left rear corner (at least from the driver's seat) ... When I had it in for service to the dealer in late fall, I asked them to check the noise. They told me the jack was loose and that they tightened it for me (at a charge of $25!) ... only it still makes a rattle ...
Not long ago, I took the jack out of the compartment ... it still rattles in that corner ... I looked under the mat and in the spare compartment .. there is nothing there to rattle ...
This all started "about" the same time that I had the rear tires replaced ... but I don't know that there is any connection ...
It doesn't rattle ALL the time ... and it doesn't ALWAYS rattle on bumps ... but it rattles every time I drive the car .. and more often than not on a 'bumpy' street ...
any ideas?
Signed ...
Frustrated in South Bend ....
-mike
Jim
Or...crank up the tunes! Inevitably an item in a storage bin somewhere will rattle. I've actually lined all mine with self-adhesive felt.
-juice
-Brian
Steve
http://www.subaruparts.com/guides/subwoofer.pdf
Good luck,
Steve
1)Fuel Economy: I have been averaging about 17 MPG for a while now on my '03 Outback H6. My driving consists of mainly small city driving (Not a lot of stop and go traffic) and a highway commute each day. Recently, I have noticed a fairly sudden drop in milage, down to about 14 MPG combined. What, other than tire pressure can be blamed for this? (Other than the occasional stop light race with a lowered civic, My driving is fairly non-aggressive)
2) On the highway at about 140-160 Km/hr, I have noticed a grinding/shearing (hard to explain) noise that lasts for less than a second. Any ideas as to what this could be? There is no change in the feel of the car, no jerkyness or anything, just the noise.
3) In terms of power, how much should I notice a couple of extra people in the car?
Other than that, everything is great, and I am now accepting donations to the "Outback XT Savings Fund".
Thanks!