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Another possibility (one to attack first), which is more shade tree mechanic friendly, is that the condensor is clogged (the 'radiator' infront of the main radiator), which can usually be backwashed with a hose, or the fan is not operating correctly.
It sounds like your car is actually downshifting to run the a/c - which will build very high pressures in the lines which could lead to premature failure of the lines, compressor, or if equipted the bursting of the burst valve to relieve large pressures.
Another possibility is that you may have too much pressure in the system.
Till you get this fixed I suggest cyclying the a/c on and off manually, via the button.
I need to clarify this, I mean to have the hose backflow water where the air would flow through (but from the engine to the grill. I am not saying to take it apart and run water through the condensor where the freon is.
So - what do I look for when it comes back? It's a brand new rear door, so I'll be checking the power weekly, but anyone have this happen before?
I'm driving a Ford Escape rental. Nicer than I thought it would be, but I really miss my little car. I'm still thrilled with the buy. It's been 8000 miles. It's great on gas, air is nice and cold, handles great in rain and it drove like a bear in a gusting snowstorm when SUVs were all over the road. :shades:
I agree on getting 4 new tires if there is only 4k remaining on the old tires. Along with the tires, I suggest a four wheel alignment.
That's what I did after being rear-ended hard enough to make one of the rear doors hard to open. A t-bone could affect alignment far more than being rear-ended.
Hope it all goes well,
Jim
When you get it back, go during the day, look it over closely. Step back and make sure the body panels align nicely. Check the gaps around the door for evenness.
Then take a test drive, do a figure 8 in forward and reverse (!) in an empty parking lot to make sure the differentials are all working properly, who knows what an impact like that could do to them.
Turn off the radio and open the windows, and listen for any drivetrain noises that don't sound familiar (wheel bearings especially).
Do not accept the car unless it's quiet and looks and feels nice and tight.
My Miata was fixed recently and I did not accept the car - they cracked some trim and I made them replace it. Then the alloy wheel cap was not replaced and I made them get that too (I had asked originally). So I did not accept the car back until the 3rd time I saw it.
Be picky, it's your right, the car should be returned to its condition prior to the accident.
-juice
On today I was slowing down and shifted into 1st, all of a sudden I hear the wheels skidding and the 'roo slows down abruptly. I downshifted into 1st too soon, and my 'roo let me :confuse:
Then looking at it and some more playing with the 'manumatic' mode, it seemed it gave a OK to downshift into 1st at about 32 mph, when is was suppose to be at about 23 mph.
I hope that was just a blip, but could it indicate a computer problem, or another problem. Does it sound like I caused any damage in this shift? I haven't drove it since then and hope it will be all better on the next restart.
If this was manual tranny, the car would be toast!
If this was manual tranny, the car would be toast!<<<
Though I agree with what you say, if a manual tranny locked you out from this also I can see more people doing this.
But a clarification - it appears like I didn't exceed the speed, but downshifting into 1st over about 23 mpg caused a very abrupt downshift, but it is within the rpm's allowed.
Of course 75 mph is 120 kph in Canada and illegal anywhere near where I live
Although our general posted speed limit in So. California is 65, if you are going any slower than 70, you run the risk of getting ran over. The CHP usually allow you those extra 5 mph. There are also other areas in So. Cal. with open highway that the posted speed is 70 mph.
Cheers
:shades:
I too have a 2000 OB. The car is made to run on regular fuel and the ECU will adjust timing to compensate for conditions, so you should never hear pinging. All you are gaining from using premium fuel might be more or better cleaning additives, etc. If what you are hearing really is pinging then your ECU is unable to compensate for some condition it is experiencing.
I have no experience of the automatic OB, but it seems that perhaps you have a standard if you can go uphill at 1-2k rpm. I hate to appear critical, but I don't think I would drive on the flat at rpm as low as 1k, and certainly not uphill. If you do have an auto, perhaps the shift points are too low.
I am new to this site and having a problem with my 1995 Subaru Legacy. Suddenly my power windows are not working. Nothing happens when I press the buttons and I am assuming that there is a problem with the electrical system. I looked in my Haynes manual, and it seems likely it is a circuit breaker or fuse, but when I looked where those things should be there are so many wires that I was not sure which one was right or how to check it. It was all working fine yesterday. I don't know much at all about cars, but I was hoping that someone could help me out with this so I could avoid taking it to a shop. I live in a town that does not have many foreign car mechanics and so they cost alot.
Please help! Thank you!!!
Allie
If you want to find it yourself maybe you need someone in the car revving the engine to the correct rpm while you are underneath. Tricky, what with hot exhaust pipes and the danger of being run over. By the way, mine only did this until the pipes warmed up after which it was OK until the next cold start.
I've got a 2003 legacy spec ed wagon. It's been really nice and goes off lease in December. While on a long drive today a prbolem came up which happens anytime I get on the highway around 120kmph (75 mph) and that is that somewhere in the right top part of the dash there's horrible vibrating buzz that happens. It's especially bad when there's a cross wind.
I've tried switching the vent outlets, closing them, etc. but it persists. Any ideas what could be doing it, or has anyone else had this problem?
It sounds like a vane or something in the vent system is getting strong air from outside and vibrating, but I can't seem to pin it down.
I'd appreciate some help.
thanks,
cdndriver
I have a 2001 otback h6 vdc model and the "check engine light" has been coming on and staying on. The mechanic at my service station advises that the codes; po174 and po171 are showing up as problems. He advises that the diagnostic work to track down the trouble could be costly. The car is performing well and gas mileage has not changed. Any comments?
Don
Fuel is lean, I think that means. How old is the fuel filter? Check the tension on the belt that powers the fuel pump, too. But it could be any part of the feedback system, maybe an O2 sensor, that is making the ECU lean out the engine too much.
-juice
No, I have an automatic transmission. Personally I don't like to drive at 1 to 2k rpm either, but the roads are pretty level around here and the speed limit is really low and stricly enforced; the city police are out in force :sick: if you know what I mean. I didn't mean hill more like on a slight grade (i.e. almost flat but barely uphill).
That's the devil of it--it only does it on a slight grade in that rpm range. If I go up a steep hill, I usually rev it pretty good 2.5 to 4k rpm and it doesn't ping, though I understand that this engine runs more richly the higher the rpms go.
I've been thinking about buying some of that BG44K or Seafoam fuel injector/ engine cleaner to see if it helps.
Eric
thanks for the tip.
John "cdndriver"
Don
All I can tell you is that there are the standard mandated codes, and manufacturer-specific ones that are optional. Which is why you can take your car to different hole-in-the-wall repair places and get different explanations for the same code, or even no explanation at all. Scanner software is different, not up to date, or doesn't have Subaru-specific codes. I strongly recommend using a Subaru dealer for Subaru code interpretation.
What are you hearing? That ping is your internal engine parts rattling around in protest. Not good if prolonged and loud.
I've heard that the engine is designed to run richer the higher the rpm, so maybe that's why it doesn't ping then. Only at 1500 to 2000. Or maybe since the engine get louder when I rev it, I can't distinguish a ping. :confuse:
I don't know, it didn't do it the last time I drove so I'm thinking it must be computer/sensor related. I've been contemplating taking it in, but if they weren't too concerned maybe I shouldn't be either. Eric
What is causing this? Is it the fan (or fans- are there more than one)? My mechanic hasn't found a problem with it/them, but is there anything else it COULD be? Could it be the water pump? (My mechanic hasn't touched that yet, saying the way it's positioned makes it difficult to get to without taking major portions of the engine apart.)
I've been using my regular mechanic, not a Subaru service dealer, but plan on taking it in to a Subaru service station next. But any ideas on what I need to do to fix this once and for all?
Thanks.
What gaskets were changed? If you did the coolant additive thing that Subaru sent out a year or two ago, then I believe your headgaskets are covered to 100,000 miles. Sounds like a HG issue.
Jim
I had been getting a slight pinging when I accelerated moderately and had read online that dirty valves (and associated areas of the combustion chamber) could be the culprit. Several treatments of "fuel injector cleaner" did nothing for the pinging, so on a whim I tried a tank of premium...the ping stopped that day (within about 20 miles of driving). The $2-$3 more it costs me at each fillup for premium is still much cheaper than a trip to the mechanic and seems to have completely eliminated the noise that I was getting.
Brian
-juice