Honda Odyssey 1999 - 2004

gkjeung · February 2001

Your experience sounds exactly like mine. The salesman showed me a sample survey and told me how to fill it out. The Finance and Insurance person made me inital that I've seen it and even gave me a xerox copy of the sample with my papers. They kept telling me that anything less than excellent was bad for their career. I think this is practice is highly ethical.

gkjeung · February 2001

Sorry for the typo.

stever · February 2001

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Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards

johng14 · February 2001

Who did you deal with a Burns Honda?? I'm in the process of purchassing a'01.

2123 · February 2001

Purchased from my dealer's business mgr. for $875.Heritage Honda , Rome, GA. (706)291-2674

timothyadavis · February 2001

On my F150 my experience was much like billg7's in that they more than compensated for any screw ups in the final analysis and I was happy. So, I had no trouble rating them "excellent" all around. They did NOT actually pressure me to do so; their approach was more subtle in offering me a free wash, gas fill up if I returned the survey to them. I simply assumed that my survey would fail to reach Ford should it have turned out less than desirable. However, as I said, their bribes -- er, I meant to say inducements -- together with the fact that I was ultimately satisfied overcame any bad impressions I might have had.

Many have reported similar bribes/inducements from Honda dealers....

hotspur · February 2001

Got the same story from the Toyota salesman when we bought our Toy two years ago. "My bonus will be severely hurt if I don't get all "perfect" ratings." No reason to believe any other manufacturer would be different, unfortunately.

This is the classic situation of the manufacturer insisting on "perfection"--or else--and as a result getting utterly meaningless survey results. Sort of like making the punishment for a petty midemeanor so severe that no one is ever punished for committing it.

Evandermel · February 2001

I just changed the oil in my 01 EX at 2200 miles, or 2.5 months. The factory fill was dirty, full of shavings (viewed by drop light). I changed to Mobil 1 5W-30. Got new filter and drain plug washer from my local dealer. The engine purrs. For those worried about break-in etc. I did exactly the same with my '98 Accord V6 back in '97, actually gave it the first change at 1500 miles, and used the Mobil 1 for it's tenure which ended when I got the Ody last December. That engine never missed a beat or used any oil. Based on common sense observations, the first oil change should be done sooner than 3750 or certainly 7500 miles.

Erik V.
2400 miles, no problems of any kind.

billg7 · February 2001

I see some of you are using 5W-30 oil, but there was a post on this board that the 2001 manual says to use 5W-20. My 2000 manual says 5W-30.

Can some others on this board verify whether or not the 2001 manual says 5W-20? I would appreciate a double check on that.

grplavloff · February 2001

"This is the classic situation of the manufacturer insisting on "perfection"--or else--and as a result getting utterly meaningless survey results. ..."

I used to be willing to answer product/service satisfaction surveys, especially those done over the phone because they didn't take long. After a while I began to refuse, for the simple reason that they did not appear to be designed to *really* determine *anything*. Why ? The questions inevitably were absolute, something like (exaggerating a bit): "The salesman was 1-very helpful, 2-rude, condescending, and unhelpful." Inevitably I found myself answering in the positive because the negative was usually so negative and unyielding that it seemed unfair to whomever/whatever I was evaluating. I suspect that the true purpose of many of these surveys was to get a nice satisfaction rating for ads & commercials.

jamescanine · February 2001

2001 manual says 5W20, but that if not available that 5W30 can be used.

billg7 · February 2001

Thanks. I will check with my service department and see if they picked up the change as the post also said the service departments had been given the incorrect information to use 5W-30 and they had to recheck with Honda to be told it was 5W-20.

I would guess that the wear is slightly more with the 5W-30.

stevedrew · February 2001

found out something interesting at the dealer today. I was inquiring about when to bring the car in for the first oil change and mentioned that the manual specifies 5w-20. The service rep said I must be mistaken because they just got the new specs from American Honda that said to use 5w-30 and he showed me the chart. I said I was not mistaken and showed them the manual to prove it (am I the only one who read it?). They called American Honda and after verifying with the engineers, they confirmed that the manual is correct (5w-20) and the spec sheet that was sent to the Honda dealerships was incorrect!! Amazing isn't it. Anyway, be sure to verify with your dealer that he changes the oil with 5w-20.

ps: even Honda's website specs 5w-30 which according to conversation with engineers at Honda is wrong!These are the specs for the '01- 5w-20

jmurman42 · February 2001

We are effected by a negative survey, and certain pay plans base a salesmans commissions or spiffs on CSI score. Unfortunately, the surveys are not specific on a particular dept.

For example, lets say that you love your salesman, and have no complaints what-so ever. Yet the F&I mgr, or the used car manager or 'whomever' at the dealership you have some problem with...it is the salesman and his/her pay that is directly affected.

Think about that the next time you have a survey in your hands.

zdriver1 · February 2001

I have Michelin Symmetry tires and the manual recommends 35psi. Yet, each time the minivan has been serviced by the dealer, they set the air pressure at 30psi and note it specifically with the invoice. Did Honda change the recommended tire pressure? Is 35psi too high?

timothyadavis · February 2001

their habits are too closely attuned to Accords and Civics....

stevedrew · February 2001

Scott... just got off the phone with Greg Allen at Union Park Honda. He has quoted me a price of $ 695.00 for the 5yr/100K 0 ded Honda Care Plan. That is far and away the best price I have been quoted. All I have to do is send him model and vin, date of delivery and miles at delivery and he will send me back the warranty with a return envelope for payment. I'll keep you posted.
If anyone else is interested his name is Greg Allen at Union Park Honda (wilmington, De)
ph- 302.573.5222 or e-mail- gjv1152@aol.com
also since I'm out of state I pay no sales tax.

timothyadavis · February 2001

You do realize that the 5 years begins from the purchase date, don't you? That means that you get the roadside service and an additional two years over your base warranty. Since the 7 year/100K/$0 deductible can be found for less than $300 more (making those next two years less than half the price of the first two), isn't that really a better deal? Besides, it seems to me that any expensive trouble is more likely to occur later than earlier in the vehicle's life. FWIW

stevedrew · February 2001

Yes, I do realize that the warranty starts from the purchase date, and It would be a better deal if I were to use the 7 years. The van will have 100k before the 5 yrs are up( by my calculation, roughly 4.5 yrs), so this is the more economical choice.

timothyadavis · February 2001

Good thinking! I obviously didn't consider that scenario, but will now.... :-)

kenmor · February 2001

I test drove a 2000 Odyssey, a demo that the dealer has up for sale. The power sliding doors had a loud rattle on both sides. The dealer feels that he can get that corrected. Has anyone else experienced this on their Odyssey and were you able to get a long term correction on it?

rbadan · February 2001

2001 EX,dark Green, for sale in Philadelphia area.
Purchased Jan 31- driven less than 1,000 miles and 6 year HondaCare warranty. Car is in perfect condition. E-mail me if interested.
madonna826@aol.com

Dan Madonna

hotspur · February 2001

Stevedrew, there *is* no sales tax in Delaware--for anyone.

dmathews3 · February 2001

I don't know what my 01 manual says but I just added a quart of 5WX30 which is what the oil cap on the engine says. I wonder if the book is not a misprint as most specs I have seen does not recomend the 20 for hotter climates.

caviller · February 2001

The 2001 Manual says 5W-20 is recommended, 5W-30 can also be used.

Ford and Honda apparently switched to recommending 5W-20 for many model 2001 (and some earlier) vehicles for fuel economy reasons. I'm guessing that since both are rated "5W", your climate probably doesn't matter so much (i.e 0W is for cold extremes, 10W or 15W for warmer temperatures). From limited reading, 5W-20 may not offer as much protection since it is thinner at operating temps. On the other hand, 5W-20 also shouldn't have the viscosity improvers and additives that conventional 5W-30 oils have, which supposedly lead to varnish/sludge/deposits. I don't trust dealers to put in what I tell them, so I doubt it makes much difference. I suppose they'll use whatever they have or whatever is cheaper.

I also don't trust dealers to inflate tires to spec, as they always seem to under inflate them. I have my Odyssey at 33-34 psi. 35 is recommended, and is also the max listed on the tire.

Some quick specs from penzoil/Mobil1 (also see http://www.atis.net/oil_faq.html ):
Penzoil 5W-20 Flash Point=445F, Pour Point=-49F, Viscosity Index=158, Pump Limit=-35F, Viscosity@100C=8.6cST
Penzoil 5W-30 Flash Point=420F, Pour Point=-44F, Viscosity Index=160, Pump Limit=-35F, Viscosity@100C=10.5cSt
Mobil1 5W-30 Flash Point=455F, Pour Point=-65F, Viscosity Index=162, Pump Limit=-54F, Viscosity@100C=9.9cSt

billg7 · February 2001

I am guessing that if you live in one of the warmer areas of the country that 5W-30 would work fine. I remember when they had 5W-50 Shell oil.

I am going to discuss this with my service department before my next oil change. At the most there is probably a slight more amount of wear with one over the other.

According to post #1326 it is not a misprint. I wonder if Honda took into account the large differences in average temperatures in the US. You have some places that get to 120F or more and some that get to -30F or less.

rvsnv · February 2001

I have a 2000 LX. I hear that the 2001 LX has manual seat height adjustment. Will it be possible to retrofit that in the 2000 LX seat. It would really be useful for my wife who is quite short.

Thanks,
Siva.

billg7 · February 2001

Consumer Reports said the LX model could use a seat height adjust and there have been some posts on this board asking if one could be provided. The 1999 and 2000 do not have the seat height adjust, but the 2001's do.

I would think there would be enough demand to make it worth while for someone to provide a kit or perhaps the dealer can do it. In the worst case you might have to replace the entire seat, but hopefully not how it is fastened to the floor.

chanak · February 2001

I bought the Honda Care from:

Bob Widmer @ Bob Lindsay Honda, Peoria, IL (309)692-3200. Don't know if he sells out of state, but I paid $755, since my friend and I bought at the same time. Inital quote was $805.

sfearing · February 2001

Yes, Greg Allen has the best quotes that I've seen, however since my van has more than 18K miles Saratoga had the better price. I wish people would put a date on when they purchased their contract for $755. Those days are gone with the dinosaurs - there was a price increase in Jan. 2001 and calling around I found 7/100/0 was over $900.
*When* you get your van (timothyadavis) it does make sense to wait a year to check your useage and then buy the coverage that suits your driving habits. Just buy it before 18K miles.

timothyadavis · February 2001

Now I not only have to remember to actually buy the van, but also have to remember to buy the warranty a year later! Oh, the pressure! In fact, I think the pressure will increase almost exponentially now that our second child is just about to be born (not soon enough for my wife, but within the next few weeks). Maybe, if I get the reassignment to Florida and buy her a bigger house, I can manage to procrastinate even longer? Hmmmmmm..... ;-)

rduel · February 2001

I have 20,000 miles on my 2000 EX, and have put up with rattles in the doors(especially the right slider) from day one. My dealer's only "fix" has been to lube the door seals. Obviously there is more wrong. It is an intermittent problem that seems to come and go with the opening and shutting of the doors. It sometimes sounds like a wire or cable hitting against the interior of the door when on rougher roads. I have complained numerous times to no avail. I did not expect these kinds of agitations in a Honda vehicle.
Anyone else with solutions to this problem?

pgeiger · February 2001

'm also concerned about the EX sliding doors for a different reason --- the amount of pressure it needs to reverse them if someone gets in the way of them closing! I have 2 small children who are not always paying attention!

I test drove one Monday and I'm feeling it's a deal breaker at this point. (Which is bumming me out as the Ody seems to clearly be the best)!

My experience with the doors was this - I could not get the door on the one I drove to switch direction by pushing it or banging it - not even during the last 18'' of travel.

The only time it switched direction was when the door wedged my arm up against the door jam and squeezed - HARD. It hurt a bit and I'm a grown man - I fear for a child that got in the way.

Is this the way it's supposed to be or was the one I was test driving not functioning properly? Can you choose to shut the doors manually if you want (switching off the auto), perhaps using it that way when you're transporting small children and using the convenience when you're not? I know I could buy the LX instead but the auto doors are a nice option, if only you didn't need the strength of a bull to reverse them.

Any thoughts or comments greatly appreciated--

Karen_S · February 2001

All the Club chats are set up on

Tuesdays: 4-5pmPT/7-8pmET

-or-

Thursdays: 5-6pmPT/8-9pmET, 6-7pmPT/9-10ET, 7-8pmPT/10-11pmET
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Let me know if you are interested in a chat and the day/time convenient for you.

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robr2 · February 2001

You can turn off the automatic operation by flipping the switch on the dash to off. But be warned - they are not easy to move without the motor assist.

My impression is that the reverse sensor works in the last 12 inches of travel but I have never tried to test mine with anything other than my arm. I don't think the pressure on my arm was that bad, but that's a personal observation.

As for young children, we have yet to have an incident with our now 4 year old in almost 1 year of ownership. We have stressed to him over and over about cars and car doors (both sliding and swinging) and that he stay out of the way and not touch them. Luckily, he listens.

As an aside, I tried my arm in the Windstar door and the pressure before reverse was about the same.

Good Luck in your decision.

billg7 · February 2001

I have been monitoring this board for about 8 months, on a daily basis, and have yet to see a post from someone who was hurt by the power doors, except from a troll who made up quite a story. I would think that Honda would design the power doors so that the likely hood of serious injury was very low. Other wise they would get sued. I have known of one person in my life time who lost part of a finger from a manual car door being shut on it but so far know of no injuries caused by car power doors. I would think that the power doors would be safer then the manual doors.

It would interesting if someone had injury data of manual versus power car doors. I do know that the manual doors do not have a reverse feature when you put your arm in them.

That person I know who lost part of a finger, was a kid at the time, and his brother, also a kid, slamed the door on him. Maybe this shows that if you have car manual doors then you shouln't have any brothers or sisters.

caviller · February 2001

I wouldn't fret the difference, personally. We've used manual car doors (regular and sliding) for years without injury, though it's likely one will happen eventually. I suspect manual doors have the potential for more serious injury.

The NHTSA complaints area does list a number of reports of power door injuries for Odyssey. See:

http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/complain/compmmy1.cfm

Note many minivans, like Odyssey are in the "Truck" category for each manufacturer. In a quick scan, I found 8 complaints that recorded injuries from the power doors, 5 for 2000, 3 for 1999. Unfortunately, the whole text of the complaint is not available to see the whole story... There were other complaints that did not record the incident as an injury.

The difference in safety wasn't the deciding factor for us buying an LX. I didn't care for the speed and logic of the system, though apparently many people are very satisfied. I've read the system on the 2001 Chrysler vans is a big improvement for auto/manual operation, but have yet to try one.

In the end, the real difference is whether you want to blame the door injury on the van (power) or on a person (manual):-)

natet · February 2001

My new LX's rear hatch demands that it be slammed before it will latch. If I close it
gently, or allow the weight of the hatch to lower it, then the latch doesn't fully
engage, the interior lights stay on, and the door open indicator lights up on the dash.
Last week after a couple of failed attempts to gently latch it with my 8'2" kayak inside,
I slammed the hatch and cracked the rear plastic panel like an egg. BTW that panel is
surprisingly thin and fragile compared to my old explorer's, which only bears scuff marks
from 5 years of doing the same thing.
My question: Has anybody had and fixed this problem? Perhaps by adjusting the latch
or striker?
thanks
nate

ut_ski_bum · February 2001

natet,
(#1352) My new EX has the same problem. I prefer not to slam the thing shut every time so if anyone has had this problem fixed, let me know. I didn't want the dealer to look at me like I was nuts when I asked about it.
Thanks!

mtsang · February 2001

There are two rubber feet that can be "screw" in/out to adjust the fit of the hatch. I initially also have to slam the hatch before it latches. After turning the feet in (or shortening the exposed length), I am now able to fully close the hatch with just slight fingertip force while releasing the pull handle. Hope this helps.

rogerberkowitz · February 2001

From time to time I hear something resembling a rattle near the sliding doors only to realize it's the seatbelt vibrating against the door. Easy fix. Same thing for nail clippers left in the center tray!

masshoosier · February 2001

Are those feet on the door or where the door latches into? Please describe a little further if you can cause I'm a novice that gets kinda scared when taking tools to my auto. I have to push kinda hard to get mine to latch and am very interested in what you said in your post. Is ti really that easy to adjust this, say it's so.
Thanks for any time you spend on this

alan927 · February 2001

I wasn't too concerned about the sliding door injury one of my children until I decided to test my doors and realized how the resistance needs to be pretty hard to get it to reverse. I was going to mention it to the dealer but before I could my son (whom loves to play with these doors like there toys when Daddy's not looking) had the door close on his finger, luckily it was only a little bit stuck in, he was able pull it out without having to open the door and he wasn't injuried. My kids are 1 & 3 by the way.

If I had to do it again, I would still get the Power doors, They are such a convenience and like some here have already said, I don't remember reading of any serious injuries caused by the door.

Also, once you have those power doors, you'll never want a van without them.

So get the EX, and remember . . . Mr. Honda would not allow his Minivan's sliding doors to injure the people that buy them, it just wouldn't make sense especially for a company known for playing it safe.

natet · February 2001

My rear hatch door now latches just fine since I adjusted the rubber feet on the hatch door. It took about 2 minutes to get it right. Now I just have to replace my cracked panel.
nate

cardingtr · February 2001

Just curiosity, if there is enough force to bruise a finger on power sliding doors, how come on different post, a "dust", "hair", "dirt", is enough to cause the power sliding door to stall?

chanak · February 2001

Just to mention that I just bought the 7yr/75000 Honda Care for my EX for $755 just last week. In fact I am still waiting for my contract to arrive from Honda in CA.

sz1 · February 2001

Which dealer did you use?

bajas · February 2001

With all the lights inside the Odyssey, and the probability that it will be hauling kids who have a tendency to leave them on, I can't believe the vehicle does not have some kind of timer to shut them off (even my lowly Voyager had that no-brainer feature) after the motor is turned off. Has anyone else contended with this problem? Is there a setting somewhere that I am missing? Help! I'm tired of jump starting!!

mtsang · February 2001

Yes, it is so (ez to adjust). Sorry I was vague with my earlier description. The rubber feet are on the hatch door itself -- there are two, one on each lower corners of the door. The feet are black rubber and about the size of a cork. NO TOOLS ARE REQUIRED.

Hope this helps.

thomasi · February 2001

I have made it part of my nightly house cruise to make sure the interior lights are off in our LX. There is always a door not closed completely. I have turned them all off with the global switch on the dashboard, but the kids believe the interior lights MUST be on even in the daytime. Anyway, I find them on at least once per week.

Honda Odyssey 1999 - 2004

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