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If I were you, I'd wait for the 2013 Outback, which should be out in a month or two. They've made a number of refinements (new FB25 engine, all-new 2nd-gen CVT, chassis and suspension upgrades, better gas mileage, as well as some styling/content/functional upgrades). It's a mid-life refresh, but a significant one. Here are a couple of links:
http://blogs.wsj.com/drivers-seat/2012/03/29/subaru-reveals-reworked-2013-outbac- - k/
http://www.thecarconnection.com/overview/subaru_outback_2013
If there is a wandering issue with the 2010-12 models, I'm sure it's been addressed with the 2013 model. It will certainly handle better, as there is a claimed 40% improvement in roll control.
Bob
-Karen in AZ-
Finally, I priced up a whole cat-back system ($350), but before ordering it, the Misses got into the act. She threatened that if I spent any more time on the car as opposed to working on the whole other 'honey do' list, she'd yank the jack stands out while I was underneath! So being a smart guy, I drove it to Meineke yesterday and handed over 6 Ben Franklin's. An hour later all was quite. They even tack welded those rattly shields, and threw in a pretty chrome tip.
Best of all, now I can tackle that broken dishwasher!
At the same time, back when the vehicle had about 32000 miles, I noticed a shudder/vibration in the steering wheel between 25 and 50 mph (usually between 1500 and 2500 rpms). I learned that this was caused by the torque converter, which was replaced under warranty. You may want to acelerate and/or decelerate through these "zones" to see if the vibration becomes a more pronounced shudder. It is my understanding that this year and model was somewhat prone to torque converter issues.
Otherwise, i am waiting to see what happens regarding the bearing.
Marc
almost 15K since we got the 3.6 R Outback in late December and we are having an oil issue that is of concern. The oil just seems to plummet as the mileage since the last change approaches 3K. Just read http://allwheeldriveauto.com/why-does-my-subaru-use-oil which was an interesting article, and in short, says that some cars use more oil, and even more oil at certain times. We had it checked at the first oil change and there are no leaks.
Just wondering if anyone else is having this issue, and if so, how you are managing it.
i have 00 outback 5 speed 280000 miles at 60 mph i hear a low humming no vibration or grinding just a low hum kind of like a ship's horn off in the distance. took it to my regular mechanic- he said not wheel bearing - he saw the boot covers are torn?- tires were checked
wondering if anyone else has this problem-- i love this car so much- i prefer to drive this everyday as opposed to my 12 outback that i just bought which i drive only for cross country trips
thx in advance
Cheers
As I have driven the Outback more and more the wandering seems to be much less. I had a Jeep Liberty some years ago and that did wander but because it was more of an offroad vehicle than the Outback, I was comfortable with it but it did require constant steering correction.
The 2013 Outback has hydraulic steering, not electric. It has a fairly heavy feel to it and the road feel is a bit number than I like it.
The above questions are not answered in your post so it is hard to say why your Subaru is burning so much oil. I read the article and the author mentions that the type of driving you do has a big impact on oil consumption. If you use a conventional motor oil, that to can have an impact on consumption as most conventional motor oils do not hold up well in newer engines.
If it only does it under acceleration, then it is likely torque related. My first guess would be that the center driveshaft bushing is bad (that's the bushing on the driveshaft appx. 16" behind the rear of the transaxle), and is throwing out of balance under high-torque situations. If it's doing it under all acceleration, then it's really bad.
But, if you had no problems with it before the swap, then most likely it is something related to repair. Check that peripheral stuff that was disconnected and/or moved out of the way while you were doing the job.
The failure rate for remanufactured Subaru CV joints is about 50%. Lots of Subaru guys already know this so finding a good used axle might take you a while.
Ominous, it definitely sounds like a CV joint at this point. if it only makes the noise while turning right, then it is most likely the joint on the passenger side. At least, that's what I found when my joints went out. Crunching/scraping to the right was the passenger side, and the same to the left as the driver side.
We're searching for a car for our 2 fledgling drivers coming up (July & December). Found a '95 Legacy L sedan, only 108K miles, 2.2L. Looks like a gem, taking a closer look later today.
CA DMV Fast Facts--Out of State Vehicles
I'm thinking a 96 would be ok, no?
Have a read: http://www.smogtips.com/moving_to_california.cfm
I want a car that handles well and it sporty looking and fun to drive. Fast would be a plus. Of course want something dependable.
A little afraid of switching brands as we have always been happy with nissan. So please tell me about cost of ownership. I know there are stories about getting 300k miles on your car but in reality, in a state that uses salt on the roads how many miles/years can be expected?
We like to drive our vehicles for at least 10 years or more.
In looking for a slightly used legacy are there things I should be looking for? different then the usual stuff?
Thank you for any input.
But, then, you said you also want fast. That would steer you in the direction of the Legacy GT. It doesn't have the open-deck EJ engine, but also not as good of fuel economy. They discontinued the model, I believe, and I'm not sure what year that was, but I know you can get it in the '10 model year for sure.
I drove a '10 Legacy Limited with a CVT a couple years back, and found it to be peppy and responsive. Quite a car, in terms of space and comfort, in comparison to the previous generation.
As for switching brands, I cannot really comment too much. I have owned many different brands over the years, and while I like the familiarity of mechanicals when it comes to sticking with the same brand, I also haven't been "burned" by a car that was of a different marque. So, I'm not overly brand loyal. I do like my Subarus though; they're just so darned practical, I can't help myself. :P
Sounds crazy but really not that worried about fuel economy.
So the EJ should be avoided completely? I'm only interested in the legacy as I want a sedan with a power drivers seat (pet peeve).
So, in terms of maximizing your long-term happiness with the car in terms of maintenance vs. repair expenses, I think the FB would be a better fit. If you go in with your eyes open to the engines' differences, you'll likely have a good experience with either.
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To me a 10+ year old car for $6500 seems a bit high if it needs work.
For the gasket, if the problem just started, and they change the gaskets, you should be OK.
If it's been overheating and they neglected it, though, you get warping and the heads won't mate properly, so it could happen again.
If you know/trust the seller, find out how long it's been leaking, and pass if it didn't just start happening recently.
The head gasket issue is typical Subaru, although it occurred a bit earlier than expected. Most 2.5L Subies of that vintage will blow the gaskets at 110K to 130K.
As long as the engine never overheated (you should be able to spot signs of that), and as long as no coolant ever got into the oil, you should be okay.
I don't think I'd buy the car until it was all fixed up and road-tested, however.
These cars are a dime a dozen--I don't see why you have to jump on this one.