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Toyota Echo Care and Maintenance
Put gas in it. Change the oil.
The end
The end
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Seriously, does anyone have any recommendations on a good Service Manual for the ECHO?
Thanks in advance
Don
Nashville TN
Go to a hardware store and buy a length of insulating pipe foam in the plumbing section. The stuff may be medium gray,
and is similar to the foam in which computer parts are usually shipped. Probably plastic-based rather than rubber-based
product, in one inch diameter.
Go to an auto store (NAPA) and get a box of insulating tape. It's a behind the counter item, not in a shrink-wrap pack. It
appears to be an asphalt-based tape, two inches wide with a paper backing that peels off. Fairly flexible, stretchable. You
will probably get more than you will use.
Open the hood. The ac lines are on your left (passenger side). There are two, one is smaller in diameter (high pressure line)
and one is fatter (low pressure line). Cut and fit the foam insulation around the low line (the one w/o the sight glass) from the
bottom of the engine compartment (it's left of the oil filter), up past the filler tube for the washer tank, all the way to where the line enters the firewall.
Once the foam is in place and your hands are grubby, start cutting the asphalt tape into pieces to wrap around the foam from top to bottom. It will be the world's worse looking (fat and ugly) ac low pressure line.
(The author checked out the possibility of heat melting the foam but found that no way it will melt, using a cookie sheet and set off the fire alarm).
So which post was this originally? I don't know. The person who wrote it deserves all the credit. Claimed that this will give about a ten degree drop in air temp. Someone find that original post so we can thank the author.
Toyo Techs Toyota Specialists
4185 Clairmont Rd
Chamblee, GA 30341
(770) 457-2098
I just wanted to know if anyone has changed there gear oil yet? I have a 5-speed..Location of drain and or refill plug and what might be required.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Please help!
45000 miles and no problems at all.
Thanks
slugline "Toyota Echo (Sedans Board)" Feb 11, 2002 2:18am
1) What tire pressure do you run?
2) What size replacement tires might improve the ride and clearance?
3) Sone one with lots more knowledge than me -- do you every add air to the shocks? Could that be an issue?
Thanks in advance! I am a big Toyota lover from numerous Corollas and a Previa and I'm sure my Echo will do just as well.
Mobil 1 gear oil in differentials (non limited slip), transfer cases, and manual transmissions is changed when new, thereafter every 100,000 miles.
Automatic trans fluid is drained and refilled every motor oil change (10,000 miles) using the drain plug found on all Toyota trans pans. Since the torque converter is not drained, refill is only 25% to 40% of full trans fluid capacity. I drop the pan and clean it every 40,000 to 50,000 miles. I don't use synthetic trans fluid, but adhere to Toyota's recommendation for use of Type T-IV fluid in the tranmissions that require it.
My 2001 ECHO's Scheduled Maintenance Guide states that at 30.000 Miles or 2 years spark plugs need to be replaced, which is required under the Emission Control Warranty. I would like to know if there are any newer model owners that can share with me if this is the same guideline for their models.
I am puzzled by the fact that it seems to soon to change spark plugs. The Corolla 2004 I just bought requires the same change but at 120.000 miles or 96 months.
Any ideas?
THANK YOU!!
My 2001 came with Platinum spark plugs that I replaced early @ 40k miles. I did it early because I wanted to ensure my Echo had Platinum plugs.
hope this helps. cliff
breaks down more or less depending upon how you drive ie highway or stop and go.
Better safe than sorry.
I was told there was a Toyota service bulletin but not sure if it is a recall for the engine
control module. I paild through the nose to have mine replaced. Please advise with what
you know.
My iridium spark plugs from rockauto.com for $6.22 each for NGK seems like a good deal
as the local parts stores want double that!
What size are the bolts holding down the plastic block cover? Also, are they metric or
the US standard. Actually, is the whole Echo metric or US measurements?
Are you sure the nuts to the spark plug housing are EXACTLY 10mm as I don't want to
strip them? What size ratchet wrench do I need for the actual spark plugs in metric or
US measurement? How long of an extension do I need to get at the plugs, what is it
called, where is the best place to buy this, and how much should it cost?
I am a klutz but feel good about myself as I just checked my air filter and it is fine. I
bought three of them from an online parts broker for about $6.25 each.
I thank you in advance for your answers so I can put in the iridium spark plugs I also
purchased from rockauto.com for also about $6.25, of course plus shipping which they
goose you on as it is dropshipped. My order came from four different vendors but I
still saved over buying the parts localls ie iridium plugs for $12.
I find a major difference in MPG when I drive a local highway at 50 to 55 versus the
Massachusetts Turnpike at 60 to 75MPH.
The cheapest gas near me as I write this is $2.99. I use WorcesterGasPrices.com but
this website listing the cheapest gas station prices is national if you scroll down on
the left hand corner.
Greywoulf, from the US.(NJ). I have an '03 Echo Sedan. Is there anywhere I can get a repair or service manual for this car?
Thanks,
greywoulf
After much looking, I have found out that all the major publishers of auto repair guides in
book format don't have one for Echos. Also, most big box and auto parts stores do not
carry the oil or air filters as both Fram and Purolator don't make them for the Echo. I
am very happy with the prices, quick service, and quality from RockAuto.com. Air filters
were only about six dollars and change and a similar price for the Iridium NGK spark plugs.
I also bought oil drain plug washers for next to nothing as most oil change places just
let them slide into the bucket of waste oil. When I had my 88 Tercel, I used to keep these washers aka gaskets in my glove compartment. Oil filters from Rock were a litttle over
two dollars but they have many types and prices.
I just use pliers? I know it is probably in the owner's manual or maybe not, but in Boston
with hot summers and very cold winters, how often should I flush and change the radiator,
please. Should I wear medical gloves when dealing with the antifreeze?
It would be useful information to know about independent repair shops which have a good
knowlege and experience with Echos as I was just fleeced by an indie shop that did not
know what they were doing and charged me for their three hours when it was a ten minute
job. They also replaced a part that was very costly and did not need to be replaced, but
rather, just cleaned. Make that five minutes.
If we could share indie Echo repair shop data, we could have a nice network going for
everyone to benefit from. We all know how expensive the Toyota dealer repair shops
are.
I do almost 30k per year so I only change oil every 9 months or so.
Oil analysis shows every time that the oil is suitable for longer use.
Thank you!
c) Bent over at the dealership only to have them say they found nothing in the computer, had no one to drive the car and that we needed to change the items I had just changed the week before again. ( Not likely) Help! Thanks.
oil.
I have NGK iridium plugs and the tools and will install them when time permits.
When I have the iridium spark plugs installed and using K&N oil filters and Mobil 1 synthetic oil, my question is, when should I change the oil and filter to maximize the
engine efficiency, engine life expectancy, and minimize the financial cost?
Also, does anybody know exactly how to get to the cabin air filter and replace it? I was
told it is inside the car, behind the glove compartment, but I think I need help. Thank you!
Sincerely,
Dan Smith
1) Clean the sensor with rubbing alcohol and a Q-tip and that will solve the problem.
2) Depress the odometer button while the car is running and then turn your engine off
and then on as this will supposedly reset the computer and the check engine light will
go off.
3) Disconnect the battery terminal and then reattach as this will stop the flow of electricity to the sensor/computer and reset the computer so the check engine light will go off.
PLEASE ADVISE IF ANY OF THE ABOVE METHODS OF MAKING THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON A 2001 ECHO GO OFF AND RESET THE COMPUTER/SENSOR ARE TRUE AND WORK,.
IF YOU HAVE PICTURES IN ADDITION TO WRITTEN INSTRUCTINS, THAT WOULD ALSO BE VERY HELPFUL.
THANK YOU.
consumers. I also stocked up on Castrol fully synthetic oil.
The last oil change I did it myself for the first time and I
used a Castrol synthetic blend engine oil. I noticed the difference. Now I am fully committed to high quality oil and
oil filter. I will change the oil and filter myself. The
local lube places charge $60 for a synthetic oil change using
a low quality filter and Mobil 1 synthetic. I have been told
by people who know that Castrol is a better synthetic than
Mobil 1 but Mobil spends a lot on marketing. My high tech oil filter with four quarts of Castrol fully synthetic oil
will cost me $25.00 but I will be getting a top performance
oil filter which I am told will prevent oil dry engine start ups. Sounds good to me. The K and N 1003 filters were $9.00 including shipping. They are $13 in the local
auto stores and I am sure repair shops would charge $20 or
$25 for them. I am told my gas mileage will get better!
I, however, chose to use a different transmission fluid. It is called Universal Synthetic ATF and you can find it on the Amsoil website.
As the name implies it is a synthetic ATF and Amsoil also recommends it for the Toyota Echo.
I've been using it for almost 5 years and the transmission shifts like new. As I drive nearly 35k miles per year I do a yearly drain and fill and only use 3 quarts each time.
Any mechanic and even you yourself can do it.
manual transmission oil change
coolant change
valve clearance check/adjust
oil change
belts inspect/change (wiggle the waterpump rotor with the belt off)
tire rotation
ball joint inspect
tie rod inspect
brake pad/shoe inspect
gas cap gasket inspect
go around under the car and check for loose nuts/bolts
check exhaust system integrity by plugging the (cold) exhaust pipe with a rag and listening for leaks with the engine running.
charcoal canister hose inspect
(inspect all the hoses in the engine compartment you can find)
brake fluid change
CV joint boot inspect
battery water check (if non sealed)
wiper blade check
open the hood and truck and clean the debris out of the water channels around them.
Some of these tings are my own ideas (that doesnt mean you shouldnt do them) Some of these things will have been done already, most likely.