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Comments
If you have a "dealer" warranty and your car breaks down in another state, forget about it. Also, i once had a dealer warranty and the dealer went out of business.
If it is a GM warranty be careful. For example, brake work is not covered by the warranty, nor is something like a clutch rebuild on a manual, they are all considered "normal wear and tear".
Getting a gm warranty is a crap shoot, it may be worthwhile if the engine or powertrain goes.
Thank you.
Thank you so much for your reply. Currently, they are selling demos here for about 24-25K. But you think I could get brand new for the same price?
I was tempted to buy demo with 6,000 miles for 25K but I lose a year of warranty. That's why I'm thinking I would be better off buying new. Just wondering where I should start with price.
Any thoughts?
Thank you for your help.
My mechanic and i looked at it, and it appears that it is just a press fit, so the knob starts backing out and finally any upward pressure and it just pops off.
Has anyone else had this problem, and if so, what did you do to correct it?
On a side note, anyone have any issues with their moonroof deciding to not close after shutting about 2/3rds the way, then reversing out again? That's happened to me 3-4 times.
Eventually, the car came due for a scheduled maintenance check. The dealer fixed it free of charge with some glue. I don't remember if it was under warranty or if it was a known issue they were fixing (recall?).
I never had any problems with the moon roof, but I usually just pop it up to vent, I almost never slide it back. Sorry I can't help you there.
I did need the dealer; however, I was still under warranty. I would not suggest saving a couple of dollars, and risking more.
Good luck
Let me know if you get your fixed and how.
My car currently has close to 56k and so far has not given me any issues other than the battery quitting after 1.5 years. However, when I brought it in for an oil change and to replace a blown headlight bulb this weekend, the mechanic told me the wiring harness that includes the headlight is corroding and will need to be replaced soon. So, trouble may be lurking on the horizon.
My obvious question is, is the plan worth laying out this kind of money and hoping I can recoup it?
On the other hand, the 6 cd carousel in my saab went out at 54K, the dealer wants $1200 to replace. My mechanic found a used replacement out of a low mileage car that had been in a collision, he is doing the replacement for about $500 including the part.
The biggest problem with extended warranties through outside companies is when they view something as being either "normal wear and tear" or a "pre existing condition".
My dealer wanted $1200 to fix my busted cd player, i bought a replacement on eBay and had my mechanic put it in, no problem, cost me about $375 altogether. However, for a few dollars more, one can buy a very nice aftermarket radio.
My mechanic tells me that the 6 CD in-dash units are unreliable because of their construction and do not last, next time it happens i want to go aftermarket.
If anyone has done this, what is the experience, especially with the dash and connection to the speakers? Any suggested brands? I would probably have the radio store do the installation.
I had luck with 2 methods of clearing this - one was just to lock the car using the remote, and then auto open the windows using the remote too. The window rolled up fine from then on. The other time I actually held the window top with my hand as it tried to roll up, until the sensor wound the window down, then it worked fine.
Will be getting the dealer to check it at next service for sure.
Please let me know. Richard
I'm buying new tires for my '03 9-3 Linear, and I'm getting mixed messages from Tire Rack vs. the dealer vs. the manual. Can you please help me sort through this?
I currently have summer and winter tires. The winter tires are 205 55 r16 m+s, and I want to keep these wheels and switch to all season tires.
- Tire Rack's website says to go to 215/55
- Tire Rack's tech person says to go to 225/50, with extra load rating (94 or higher)
- Saab dealer says to stick with 205/55, and that extra load rating doesn't matter since I don't drive over 100mph
- Saab manual says the following for 16" wheels: Summer @ 215/55 R16 93 H, and Winter at 205/55 R16 91 Q M+S or 205/55 R16 93 Q M+S
Any thoughts from you guys on clearing this mess up? Depending on what size I go for, I either have great selection (if I do 215/55) or pretty poor selection (if I go 205/55).
Thanks
Dave
Where is the best place to sell these guys? I could do a craigslist post, but wondering if there are standard ways that I could offload them - like back to the dealer, or to a wheel place, etc?
Thanks!
D
Hoping someone can steer me int he right direction. I just recently pulled the 17" rims and tires off my Saab 9-3 because the ride was horrible!
I went with a 15' rim and got a great private sale deal on them. The rims and tires came off of a Saab. The tires size is 205/55/r15. Now previously riding on a 17" this 15" is a whole lot better feel, but not quite the "luxury" feel. Should I go to a 205/65/r15? Or do you think the crappy ride could be a suspension, shocks thing? I feel every bump in the road and my car seems to hit them hard rather than float softly over them.
I apologize if I am not using the correct terminology for things but I am not a mechanic. : )
Any suggestions?
L.
I dread driving at night with my low beams. It is like I don't even have the lights on! After washing my car I noticed the headlamp covers are getting old and starting to yellow. Could this cause a dim low beam? I was reading up on Halogen verses Xenon to see if I needed a brighter bulb. Arrrghhh, I need guidance on this. I also looked up the cost of headlamp assembly's on Ebay and new they go for 260.00 each. I would prefer to go the cheaper route right now. Is driving with my high beams on constantly an option? : )
Any suggestions?
L.
I am not a tech* guy, don't know anything about vehicles and mostly one of those who will always say YES to mechanics on any repair
I am from Edmonton, Canada and planning to buy a 2004 9-3 2.0T, vehicle has 220K kilometer (137K miles), and the deal i am getting is $4000 and on top of that i have to buy new set of tires that may cost me another $500-600.
So overall cost will be $4500-4600, do you think its a good deal, how much will be the maintenance cost moving forward? Is it worth it? Also i am planning to get the vehicle inspection report + carproof before the purchase.
Would really appreciate if you can point me in right direction?
Thanks,
Sam
I'd ask for all maintenance records first and perhaps even look into an after-market warranty program. Otherwise buy something newer.
You CAN buy Halogen XENON for less than $10 a pair for low beam on eBAY,
OR,
Buy a HID replacement kit, consuming only 35 watts per bulb, and giving almost twice the light than that of a 55w halogen, the kit will need wiring of course but not a big deal for a little handy Saab owner.
The original factory HID units are $200/300 a pair while these Chinese cheapies[not bad...for the price], are down to $50 a pair.
Make sureu choose 5000 K type light that is not too much bluish, 10,000k are very blue and look bad as well as poor in illumination.
good luck !
And what type of Power steering oil should be used..?
Thnx
S'lander
Autozone checked the codes:
P1334
P1312
Does anyone know what they mean and how to find what do they imply.../,and how to address the problem/s..?
Thnx
I ordered a repair/service manual, and learn from that the codes relate to wires either short or broken to ignition coils....but then car starts and runs fine.
The modern day automation for diagnostics and solutions and all other problems...
Good luck.
As far as maintenance, SAABs can get pricey- just fact of life. $75 for a synthetic oil change, $28 for a brake light bulb, $600+ for a set of brakes are examples, and no these are not dealer service prices.
What bulb is that which cost $28..? I just put HID lights on Volvo [two] for $35...[only 35 watt consumption and twice brighter than T-H bulbs. True these were Chinese.
Get rotors and pads from AutoHaus in AZ..sells most import stuff.
Whats expensive is the darn TURBO in these cars...so use of syn oil and prem gas[min Octane 91]...helps. And the suspension links/joints..4 in F plus labor $ 700 avege.
Used the Mobil 1 synthetic...cost abt $9/qt.
Trick is to drain...and fill, close lightly the plug, then start the engine[pumps used oil , and some new to the sump], then drain again...u will see the oil color get better after 4 or so iterations as explained. By then possibly u would ve conssumed 6 Qts. Total capcty is 7 I hink.
OR else u must suck oil outa sump...by a pump, but that too maynot ensure that u re taking all out of the T Convrtr.
the old oil at 108k was greyish..and dinot smell burnt, but did smell 'not good'...the new oil sits well, runs the Tr fine, but level adjustment is to done right...at correct temp, and shifting the gear stick in D, R N etc as suggested in the user manl.
I don't know what to do abt Volvo's oil change [at 110 k miles]...cannot find the darn plug.
If need 2001 SAAB 93 parts, contact ssty@hotmail.com
Sincerely Claudiu
http://www.thesaabsite.com/