Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions

cujo · January 2005

gary i have the same problem. vibrates at 60 to 75. drive line vibration. dealer says that they are suppose to be like that. not true. not all have it . the problem is front drive shaft and angle the front axle has to be adjusted up 4 degrees. if you move it it will go away but your tires will wear. they do not have a fix for it yet. i went to 1 800 lemon law . i want out and will buy another without vibration. good luck. you should get lemon law started

lralston · January 2005

Please provide additional information on this lemon law. I have the same problem, love the truck but hate the vibration issue. If there is a way to replace the vehicle without taking a huge financail hit I would like to know about it.

roper2 · January 2005

I have 72k on this engine.I change the oil every 5k with full syn.This time of the year when I look in the oil fill tube and see all that sludge and goop in there would it be better for this type of engine to change more often? Can this engine hold up to 5k oil changes without a engine flush or a sludge problem with high miles?I know people have 4.7's with more miles than mine how are they holding up ? thanks

jmh0229 · January 2005

So any idea what this means...I have driven for over a week like this and have not noticed a difference in performance

dustyk · January 2005

Oil sludge is formed when the motor oil accumulates moisture. Moisture is normally purged as the engine is run for a period at operating temperature. Engines that do not get a moderate amount of drive time at full operating temperature will suffer from oil sludging problem. Short trip driving, especially in the winter time, will accelerate this condition.

You may be seeing a sludge build up just below the oil fill cap but that does not mean the inside of the engine looks the same way. On the 4.7 motor the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve is placed just below the fill opening. The oil fill assembly is plastic and does not conduct heat well.

As the engine is run the PCV valve pulls warm, moist air from inside the engine to this plastic oil fill assembly. In winter the temperature of this plastic assembly is cold enough that the moisture in the crankcase air condenses inside the fill assembly. With a combination of oil vapors the moisture turns the oil in this area to a sludgy form.

I've never seen a 4.7 apart so I cannot provide absolute testimony, but I suspect that there is little to no accumulation of sludge in most other areas of the engine.

On mine I do get a small amount over the course of the winter, but it easily cleans up in the spring with a little carburetor cleaner and/or the wipe of a clean cloth. If you're getting more than that then I suspect the engine is not getting a good hot run in your daily commuting.

I run 0W-30 Mobil 1. Regardless of the miles on the oil, I change just before winter and as soon as possible in the spring for the reason of sludge. For me this usually means about 4500 miles of driving, maybe a little more. Mine does not exhibit any signs of sludging at the oil assembly during the warmer months.

So far, with the exception of the visual signs of sludging around the plastic oil fill assembly, I know of no report of more serious sludging or engine problems associated with sludging on the 4.7.

I hope this helps.

Best regards,

Dusty

roper2 · January 2005

Dusty thanks for the information .

marsha7 · January 2005

my wife's 2004 Ram 1500 5.7L...I have converted over to Castrol 5W-30 Synthetic Oil, and I intend to change it every 5K miles, as in 5K, 10K, 15K and so on...it currently has 1700 miles on truck, and she will probably put on no more than 1000 miles per month...that means that I will, assumedly, be changing her oil every 5 months...I know that with "real" oil, they always said 3000 miles or 3 months, because of the oil breaking down...will synthetic oil allow me to go 5 months, or should I change it every 3 months like in the "days of yore"...more info, she drives only 7 miles to work, city running only, but at least once weekly it runs at 70-75 mph for about an hour...is that hi-speed running sufficient to prevent water buildup and or sludge buildup???

sebring95 · January 2005

IMHO, with that type of driving you're probably more than covered at 5k mile intervals. 5k miles on conventional oil is more the norm these days, although with that much city driving I would recommend something like 4k miles on conventional, maybe 7k miles on synthetic. You might go 6k/6 months and make it real simple!

I think you're more than covered either way. My VW has a recommended service interval of 10k miles when running synthetic. I've had the oil tested at 12k miles and it is still very clean, but I generally try to change it between 10k-12k miles. I could probably go 20k miles based on the testing, but would need a filter change prior to that. Plus I'm about 90% highway in that car. Most filters need replaced between 10k-15k miles regardless.

redsreiner · January 2005

The front end is disengaging but the front driveline won't quit spinning. When 4wd isn't engaged it makes a clicking noise. Needless to say our fuel economy has dropped from 17-19 mpg to 13-14 mpg. Has anyone else experienced this and how can we fix it? Thanks

dustyk · January 2005

One-thousand miles per month is average and with a synthetic you should be able to go 7500 miles at least before you might be breaking down the oil. The caveat is the climatic conditions and driving style. During the winter months in the snow belt you might consider a more frequent change due to the possibility of moisture and gum build-up from short trip driving.

I've gone 9000 miles on my 4.7 Dakota with Mobil 1, which included a oil filter change at a approximately 4500 mile interval. The oil color change was less than moderate during that 9000 mile oil change. This was in summer months.

The problem with longer oil change intervals on synthetic is that regardless how many miles can be driven with the oil still in the relatively close protection range, it still gets dirty and contaminated with moisture, acids, and other elements that cannot be filtered by the engine oil filter. That's why I change more frequently based on climate and/or driving pattern.

To answer your other question about the 70-75 mph run once a week purging moisture out of the oil, it's hard to tell. It depends on how much moisture has been collected by the oil. High-speed operation for that duration will generate enough heat to evaporate the moisture, in my opinion, but it won't convert sludge back into oil. (That's assuming that the radiator thermostat is regulating the correct operating temperature, of course.)

I would suggest checking the engine oil over time to determine if there is any appreciable amount of sludge build up.

Best regards,

Dusty

johnchun · January 2005

04 1500 ram 2wd 4.7 auto5spd 50k driving Los Angeles 2 Panama

In Mexico they only have 10-40 oil. no such thing as 5-30 or 10-30. Due to the hot weather, over 70f all the time, they use 20-50w to 40w. Ouch! Driving from Los Angeles 2 Cancun with a jet ski then on the way to Panama, will 10-40w be okay if i change it at 2k miles????? Mexican gas is bad too. So what other stuff should i change or do more frequently? Doing trans&filter at 20k intervals. Should i change the fuel filter or insert one in the engine befor the pump?

Cleaned my KN air filter at 50k with only 20k miles on it. Changing oil every 2k and oil filter at every other 2k.

roper2 · January 2005

I am hearing a noise and can't find the problem.Last week had a mechanic check it,he ran scanner looking for codes and said everything looked good.What it's doing is when it cools down and I start it everything is quiet and smooth no tickuntil the temp gets to the first mark on the temp guage at idle .When it reaches the normal running temp the tick goes away.The only place I can hear it is sitting in the drivers seat.Listen outside over or under the engine it sounds good.Seems like it does it only when ideling.Any ideas what may be causing this?thanks

johnchun · January 2005

When i went from 245x70x16 to 265x70x17 wheels, the Gps told me my miles was .0578 off. in other words, i was traveling almost 6% more. Somewhere here someone said i must get my computer reprogramed due to the bigger tires-rims. is this true.....

been averaging almost 20mpg in usa freeway driving but in Mexico it´s been about 16-17mph highway and about 14mpg city-mixed. Mexican gas is bad. plus they sell you 9liters for the price of 10 at some gas stations. should i put a 2nd fuel filter between the tank and engine....

oh, steam cleaning the engine does not make the wire system go nuts. in Mexico, i had the engine steamed cleaned and the entire under side too for $12, includes degreaser, hand scrubbing and steam. Total polish and interior cleaning was $10 with camper shell. Wow, Mexico is cheap for services.

Costa Rica autos sell for 130% more than Panama, so that is where i will sell my dodge and jet ski, after reaching Panama city. Example is small nissan is $10,000 in Panama and in Costa Rica, same car is $23,500. That´s a big percent difference. LET´S SEE IF I CAN GET MY STICKER PRICE OF $27,800 IN COSTA RICA.

will 10-40 oil mess up my miles on this 4.7 motor or is it okay in 70 to 100 degree weather.....

psram · January 2005

Well Greetings too all

Well I travel alot to mexico, and while I agree that gas is really of bad grade what i would recommend is what I do, buy the highest grade of gas possible, and while most will have water in it I recommend you buy some Chevron Techron gas treatments to add to the gas. Believe it or not this will help your engine run alot cleaner and help elimanite any gunk that the gas might have. I also recommend you take an extra case of engine oil, with the different climates you will be entering you will need the right grade. At least that is what I do when I take my truck on long trips and I know I wont be able to get my hand on the right oil. Peace of mind is what I call it, it might be a hassle in the beginning but it is well worth the pain. Other than that you shouldnt have that much of a problem, I take my F-250 which has a 5.4 triton engine and so far no problems. I just bought the Dodge recently and I love the horse power!! But any how I hope I helped

dustyk · January 2005

>>>will 10-40 oil mess up my miles on this 4.7 motor or is it okay in 70 to 100 degree weather.....

Chrysler does not recommend the use of 10W-40 motor oils in any of it's engines. This formula is the most chemically unstable motor oil on the market. Although probably okay when used in more consistently stable higher temperatures, I would highly recommend that it be changed within 4000 miles. I would recommend against it's use as an "all-weather" motor oil, especially in climates where the temperatures range into freezing or below part of the year.

For the 4.7 motor 5W-30 is recommended to 100 degrees F ambient. If prolonged use is anticipated at 100 F, 10W-30, 15W-40 would be far better choices. I'm not sure how many miles you plan on driving, but a good synthetic 5W-30 should be more than sufficient for 7500 miles or more under the temperature conditions you describe.

Best regards,

Dusty

mr_hemi · January 2005

1990 Dodge Ramcharger, 5.2L, A-518 auto, 3.55 gears. The original transmission crapped out around 49k, replaced under warranty and went about another 200k on that one. Odometer broke at 186k about five years ago. Still original engine, only replaced the water pump, valve cover gaskets, EGR sensors, and ignition parts and plug wires frequently. Good WAR HORSE.

2004 Dodge 2500 Quad Cab, CTD, 48RE auto, 3.73 gears. 13k so far. Only problem was the horn went off on a Saturday morning in the garage. The wire was pinched in the steering column support. Dealer knew about that and fixed it. 19 MPG average so far. I hope this truck lasts as long or longer than the old one. It cost twice as much as the old one, but has twice the power and torque.

dustyk · January 2005

On your 1990 A-518, depending on the year of the transmission rebuild, you probably got the A-518-3 upgrade. This included a number component changes and revisions that increased the fluid flow, especially to the overdrive unit.

Is the '04 RAM a Hemi or a diesel? Your 19 MPG average is above average for the 5.7 Hemi.

Regards,

Dusty

loncray · January 2005

Dusty, thanks for your help in this forum - it's highly appreciated. If I could interject on behalf of Mr. Hemi - he did put CTD in his description, which would make it a Cummins Turbo Diesel. Guess his name would've had to come from some other vehicle!

dustyk · January 2005

Ion, thanks for the reply. Yeah, that's why I asked the question. Nineteen as an average on the 5.7 Hemi is tremendous. I've heard some peak at that MPG, but not average.

Bests,

Dusty

loncray · January 2005

My understanding is that the biggest disappointment about the Hemi is the poor mileage. It's why I got a CTD - I regularly get 16mpg with a lead foot, 4x4, high camper, and stop and go city driving. When I get on the highway (and keep it under 70) I regularly get 20mpg. If I had a Hemi with all my issues, I'd be getting single digit mileage.

johnchun · January 2005

Will use addetive and high cost fuel.

Will change oil every 2k vs 3k, got that quick change oil plug.

Anyone change their Fan Belt & Spark Plug wires at 60,000 miles on a 2004 dodge 1500 4.7L V/8??

Do i have to to maintain the Warranty????

johnchun · January 2005

Been a mercedes driver for 20 years. Selling 04/1500 ram quad 2wDrive 4.7L soon and will be buying a Diesel. Dodge Truck has been super fantastic. Diesels have been my car for over 20 years/mercedes. So it's back to Dodge Diesel. Lowest i found for a 2500 quad 4x4 Diesel is $32k and $35k for a 3500. OUCH... i paid $18k for my 1500 ram. Are these good prices???

dustyk · January 2005

John,

There are no spark plug wires on the 4.7 motor. Each spark plug has it's own coil.

I think the fan belt is a "use-to-failure" item.

Best regards,

Dusty

roper2 · January 2005

Does the warranty on a 05 Ram require 15k diff.@ trans.fluid changes? If true is this for limited slip only? thanks

02diesel · January 2005

I have 62,000 miles on my truck and I am on my third transfer case. My problems started at around 45,000 miles when the truck partially engaged into 4wd. It was stuck between 2wd and 4wd. Since then, two transfer cases have cracked in half for unknown reasons. After the third transfer case was installed, I have had constant leaking from the transfer case. At first it was dripping and the dealer replaced the seal, then it was pouring out and again the seal was replaced because supposedly they used the wrong sealant the first time. Has anyone else had problems like this and what have you done to correct it? I am tired of driving a dodge neon for the price of my truck while the dealership mechanics try to figure out what is wrong. I was told that if it continues to leak they are going to change out the transfer case again, but this doesn't seem like a logical answer to me.

I have also had a strange vibration from the center of the truck at 70 mph that lasts until I hit 75 mph, then it goes away. Any clues?

dustyk · January 2005

I asked around and nobody here has heard of any cracked transfer cases.

Dusty

mac24 · January 2005

It sounds like the cracked transfer cases are a symptom, rather than the actual problem.

drunkv10 · January 2005

Hello out there.

I have a 1998 dodge v10 4wd ex cab. while driving down the freeway at any cruising speed with your foot barley on the gas i gently accelerate and the truck starts jerking slightly like its cutting out. If i floor it no problems At slow speeds no problems. Any ideas,thanks for any help.

psram · January 2005

Hey dustyk

Question I have for you being you are the source for all the answers well most. I was reading the maintnence manuel on my 04 hemi 1500 and it says I should change it at 15000 miles, is this correct because it is a new truck and it seems pretty early to do such a change on the rear axle. I have a heavy duty F250 truck as well and I didnt have to change the oil from the axle to later. Just seems odd, but any help would be appreciated

iowabigguy · January 2005

There is a known problem with the rear ends on the Ram 1500s using the 9 1/4 rear ends as well as some Dakotas using the same rear end. One site said that it was estimated 1 of 10 would fail due to the use of lesser quality components. I think the rear end is redesigned on the 2005 Rams or maybe not until 2006. Anyway the extra lube changes provide protection for Dodge. If you have a failure and have not done the recommended maintenance then you will probably have to pay for the repairs yourself. I changed mine myself at home using Red Line Synthetics and the Mopar silicone sealer specified for less than half of what the dealer wanted me to pay. If you really want a shock ask your dealer what the 30,000 mile spark plug change is going to cost you. It is a great truck but the maintenance costs are much higher than you are used to doing. The transmission also requires service at the 30,000 interval as well. This too can be done at home using the Mopar specified fluids and sealer for less than half the price at he dealership if you are handy with tools. A service manual can be found on Ebay for a reasonable price to insure you are doing the work properly. If you do go this route just keep your receipt to show the work was performed. Rick

marsha7 · January 2005

owners manual on my 2004 Ram 1500 Hemi, that the recommended fuel is midgrade 89 octane...I have read numerous posts about why folks should not use hi-test until the vehicle actually demands it, but since they recommend fuel just slightly higher than regular 87 octane, should I just stick with the more expensive 89 octane, or try 87 and see if it runs OK...

dustyk · January 2005

Because of the year and the fact that your 2500 is either a 318 or 360 Magnum motor, my first guess would be a bad intake manifold gasket.

Best regards,

Dusty

dustyk · January 2005

My suggestion is to continue use of 87 octane. As far as using more octane than necessary, there is no performance benefit unless you are experience detonation.

One thing most high test fuels will give you is increased fuel system detergents that will (usually) keep engine performance at optimum.

Bests,

Dusty

johnchun · January 2005

Dusty! Thanks for the advice!! Los Angeles 2 Panama! Got a new Cow/Grill guard installed for $117. Looks so rad and bad! in Antigua Guatamala now. Logged in about 6k from Los Angeles to Antigua... pulling a polaris jet ski. Next Stop is San Salvador.

dustyk · January 2005

Some of the most troublesome vehicles I've seen have been very low mileage older cars and trucks. My sister once bought a '58 Buick in 1965 that had 13,000 miles on it. By the time it was 6 months old the engine was torn down (by me) and the transmission completely overhauled and rebuilt. Every rubber bushing in the front end was deteriorated. By 1970 that Buick was rusted so bad you could take a shower in it going through a car wash.

Engines and transmissions especially can get real gummy when sitting for long unused periods. But in all fairness, problems with the intake manifold gaskets were fairly common on the 3.9 V6 and the 318 and 360 motors of those years.

Best regards,

Dusty

akangl · January 2005

Very true on the low mileage vehicles. We learned our lesson, bought a 97 Explorer Limited in 2003 with just 42k on it, 15k later it needed a rear main and a new front end.

After that we bought a 99 Ram 3500 V10 4x4 with only 11k on it in late 2003. Today its in for rear axle seals, t-case seal, front end is leaking and there is oil all over the bottom of the engine.......although they haven't found the leak yet. The truck has just 27k on it. Excellent reliable truck, but its leaky.

My Focus is just 6 months old and has 21k on it, no problems to date and I drive it 165 miles/day.

Age will kill a car quicker than miles me thinks.

mrbill · February 2005

2004 1500 Ram Laramie Hemi, 9000 miles and going strong. However It has developed a shudder sound at low RPMs, (such as in a parking garage, driveway or backing up). The sound comes primarily when turning the wheel and seems to be coming from the engine compartment but I cant be sure, however its obviously coming from under the truck. It is definitely a shudder sound and I can recreate it by sitting at idle and turning the wheel , but cant locate the cause. Any ideas before I make a service appointment? Thanks

ahasher

cgroves · February 2005

I have a problem with my V-10 ,seems to hesitate a bit when I attempt to accelerate I wonder if this could be a fuel line filter problem. I have heard that this filter my be in the gas tank and not in the gas line. this is a 1999 Model, 4 wheel drive ,long bed. I would appreciate your input.

Thanks cgroves

av1cadet · February 2005

I just purchased a new 2005 Ram 2500 4 dr. pickup with the cummins turbo diesel engine. I asked where you plug in the engine preheat and was informed that Dodge does not provide the cord or wireing harness. The preheater is installed but I must purchase a $43.00 cord to plug it in. This really gets my knickers in a twist! An over $40,000 truck and they hit all of us up for another $43.00 if we want the cord that should have been, and was, included in past years. I called Dodge customer service today, after over 30 minutes on hold I told the person who finally answered my complaint. He said all he could do was log it. If enough of us complain perhaps they will do what they should have done, and send us all cords (wiring harness is their term).

av1cadet

tfuder · February 2005

Hi, all. I've got a '94 Ram 1500 2WD Short Bed Regular cab with the 5.9L V8, and the standard Auto tranny in it.

The truck has been great - it's got 155K miles on it, and has had no unusual mechanical problems. However, I've got one nagging one that's been happening for a while now, and hope I can find a solution:

When I drive the truck, it shifts from 1st to second exactly as normal, but doesn't want to shift from 2nd to 3rd. If I let it, it'll run all the way up to redline (of course, I don't do that!) without shifting. Shifting from 3rd to 4th and then into overdrive happens as it should. It's only in this particular shift-point.

The temperature outside does not seem to be a factor, nor does the amount of time the engine (or tranny) has been running, as it'll happen any time, day or night, warm or cold, in any weather.

I have noticed, however, that if I "get down" on it or am towing a boat or other trailer, I don't experience it.

If I get to the normal shift point between 2nd and 3rd and it doesn't shift (it is intermittent - did I mention that?), then to get it to shift, I have to take my foot off the accellerator, and, as the truck slows, it'll eventually shift up, then I can hit the gas and go on as normal.

I'm wondering if perhaps I've got some fluid blockage or the computer is whacked out or something - looking for suggestions that I can try.

Todd

tfuder · February 2005

I have a question - In my 5.9L V8, recently (in the past 6 months or so), when I stop at a light, with the truck in gear, it idles down to about 400 or less rpm. While I don't mind (the Flowmasters make it sound awesome), it appears to be going slow enough to set off the oil pressure sensor, and the light flickers on, in time with the engine revolutions. If I drop it to Neutral or Park, without the load, the engine RPMs come up a little, and the light goes out.

I'm wondering if a simple idle adjustment is all I need, or if it's doing any damage sitting where it is. The truck never stops, although I think another 50rpm and it probably would.

Todd

sebring95 · February 2005

Sounds like the tranny is going. It would be worth having a good (ask around) tranny shop take a look. But with those miles, that's pretty good for most any transmission these days. I used to run a fleet of vehicles, and many of the cars that lost their transmissions above 100k miles did exactly as you're describing. I would avoid a big chain (aamco, etc.) and look for someone private that offers a nationwide warranty. The chains generally hire people off the street and have turnover. The private shops that have been around 10-20-30 years are still there for a reason.

mark_c · February 2005

Hi, I'm consider buying a used 02' 1500 with the 3.7 and auto trans. The truck has about 33,000 miles on it and during the test drive I noticed some vibrations at idle, felt like a misfire, or skip. While accelerating it seemed fine. Also, there was some clatter or squeak (not solely a clatter or a squeak, but a combination of the two perhaps), seemed to be coming from the belt or tensioner idle pulley noise, at speeds the sound reminded me of a bad lifter.

My questions are:

How reliable is this engine, mechanically? Any problems with condensation/sludge? Valve lifters realize the 3.7 is an overhead cam design based on the 4.7) Any inherent problems with the belt, belt tentioner idle pulley bearings, or water pumps etc.? The misfire at idle; could this be a bad coil? (I assume the 3.7 has independent coils for each spark plug) Or is this simply the characteristics of the 3.7? (I rented a Jeep Liberty with the same 3.7 for a week long vacation last winter and it idle very smoothly in comparison).

Since the truck has about 1 month left on the factory warranty (3yr-36K for 2002), I dont want to end up with someone elses prior problem (truck is at a used car lot, came from auction).

Anything owners of the 3.7 & auto can pass on would be very appreciated.

Thanks,

Mark

engineer al · February 2005

Hi,

Just found this site, great place! I have a '98 2500 RAM, 5.9 gas/5 spd manual that I bought used in the summer of '02 for $19 K CDN off a dealer lot. I love the truck, although it hasn't been entirely trouble free. Early last year, I had to replace the pinion bearings on the rear axle, as they were failing, as well as the fact that I have never been particularily happy with the power output, and the fact that it seems to burn a fair bit of oil although it doesn't foul the plugs. Thanks to this site, I am now aware of the potential sealing issue with the intake manifold, and I will perform the test when I get time the next few days.

The truck had 96,000 kms on it when I bought it, apparently the previous owner used it to haul seafood products on Vancouver Island. I decided to redo the brakes last fall. I shot the wad and replaced everything on the wheel assemblies. Unfortunately, in the process of trying to remove the spindle nut on the drivers side front axle, the thread galled on me and screwed up the stub shaft. I replaced it with a used one I found at an autowrecker. As well, the bearings on the passenger side front were failing, so I had to replace that too, as they are a unit construction, it cost me $300 for a new one from the dealership. Oh well, the joys of owning a used vehicle!

On the plus side, I can say that without a doubt this is the best 4x4 I have ever owned, and I have owned several. I am running BFG AT's, and have limited slip with the heavy duty axles. We recently had a bad snowstorm (20"+), and where I live is quite rural with really bad hills etc. This truck performed flawlessly in these conditions! A buddy of mine just bought a brand new F350 1 ton, diesel with ALL the options. He took it down a road I had previously been down (unplowed) and got hopelessly stuck! I didn't find out until the following day, when I was back there again, saw what looked like someone having all kinds of fun rototilling around in the snow. Found out later who it was, offered (in front of everyone at bar of course) to help him out in future should he require it, and that it was a good thing I had been there first, as otherwise he'd still be there......

I'm still reading earlier posts, some great info here, I will be happy to contribute what/when I can.

-=[al]=-

'98 2500 4x4

5.9 Magnum/5 spd manual

Neo 35 Jukebox - 18,000 songs

fhunter · February 2005

I have the same thing mrbill and now have 19000 miles still does it ocasionally. Waiting for it to do it more oftem before I look into it.

loncray · February 2005

Actually, my '03 Ram 2500 came with the whole thing installed - I dunno if it was part of the Laramie package or what - but they made it an extra-cost item to cut costs. It's all part of making our $40,000 trucks not be $45,000 trucks. Petty? Maybe, but it's part of the compromises Dodge had to make to sell our trucks at a particular cost point. They replaced the beautiful Laramie wood dash inserts with (cheaper) brushed steel too - it just means my truck is now that much more desireable to me!

pitbullmom · February 2005

I bought a new Ram in October 2004 and it handled great for about the first 16,000 miles or so - then it developed a mind of its own.

It tends to want to wander when taking curves -most noticeable at any speed over 50 miles and hour and right curves are far worse than left curves... it seems the entire truck wants to move as well as the back end kick out. I've had it aligned and I constantly check the tire pressure

Any ideas?? I've never had this problem before!

rangersgoalie · February 2005

i just put a new batt, in my 97 ramm 1500 and the truck doesn't start all the time. it starts fine for the most part but even now and then it doesn't i turn the key and just get a click like the batt is dead. could it be the power cables?

KCRam · February 2005

16,000 in 4 months, or did you buy in Oct 2003?

If it's just been 4 months, sounds like you're much harder than average on cornering. You may have accelerated wear in a suspension component. And regardless of time frame, check your front tires for either strange treadwear or possibly a cut/slow leak - this would also cause unusual handling problems.

kcram

Host - Wagons

pitbullmom · February 2005

Thanks... yes I did buy in in October 2004. I drive close to 36k a year - 90% highway and mostly in stop and go traffic (I live work in north nj)

I have had the tires checked - with the miles I drive the truck is at the dealer monthly for oil changes etc.

Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles

Dodge Ram: Problems &amp; Solutions

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles

Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions