2. The Altimas in that year group do have a oil seepage problem. Can't be 100% positive that is your problem. I drilled the hole in mine. Had it cleaned up, you may need new parts if they are oily. No more problems.
3. Just because the dealer says the computer says you need a part doesn't make it so. I.E. your computer. I had an 87 Reliant that was hesitating. Dealer said the computer found 3 bad parts. $200 each and no guaranty it will solve he problem. But, had to start there. I said NO, took it to a recommended GOOD mechanic. He found the problem in ten minutes, no diagnostics. $80 and no more problem.
4. In my case the car just shut off, that's why I said I can't be 100% sure it is your problem. Do some research and find a very reputable private mechanic.
I just purchased my 2007 altima on 1/23/08. And since i have been driving it for a couple of days, have started to notice some rattling noise, as if the engine is going to fall from underneath the car. And when i go to brake, i feel as if im going to give myself whiplash because of the overly sensitive brakes. Please let me know if this is normal, or did i just purchase a dud.
The rattle you are hearing is probably the heat shields or similar exhaust parts, they come loose and vibrate and rattle. The screws that hold them may be loose or missing, or the shield(s) could be broken.
I have never heard any complaints about the brakes before. If they are indeed oversensitive, something may be improperly installed. Get them checked by a mechanic.
I have Nissian Altima 1989 Automatic Transmission, every thing is OK with the A/Transmission, it is shifting well.
But the problem is when I put it in D mode and press the petrol peddle, the pickup is not at enough speed, e.g. I am waiting in the Signal Lights and the light is Green all the vehicles goes speed but i am the last one start move slowely.
The Gear is OK, the Oil is Full and in OK condition but i don't know why pickup very slowely.
is it possible that the gear filter not clean enough or any thing wrong with the transmission.
have 95 altima brake lihgts will not go off, i have changed the plug and the brake light switch, but still staying on would the reverse lock switch casue the brake lights to stay on, i san put it in gear without pushing the brake,,, anybody have any ideas thanks for any help
Sounds like it may a transmission problem, starting off in second gear or could be a torque converter problem. It needs to be checked by a transmission shop or dealer. Good Luck, E.D. in Sunny Florida
I purchased a new 2007 Nissan Altima from a dealer in a large city, about 35 miles from my home. When I got the car home, my radio reception was zero. While at the dealer, the reception on the local city stations was excellent. I took the car back. They SAID they replaced the radio. Same thing. When I got home nothing. The scan won't even pick anything up. My 2001 Toyota Camry, with the same antenna set-up, (rear window) picks up stations 75 miles away, crystal clear. The CD player,& aux for my ipod work fine. Has anyone else experienced a problem similar to this? I've had people tell me that the newer cars have FM modulators in them for after market use. They said they cause interference with the FM signal. I'm trying to get back with the dealer, but, he has went stealth on me. The car has only 7500 miles on it. So it is still under warrenty. I'd appreciate any help.
After 46k, the time has come to bid farewell to my OEM Bridgestones. What have others out there gone with? I was just looking at some Hankook Optimas in Pep Boys. They have a great mileage warranty and are a good deal at buy 3 get 1 free but I don't know anyone that's ever had them. What does everyone think?
I had Hankook tires as original equipment on a 2005 Chevy Aveo, and only got about 12K miles out of the front tires...but, the Aveo is rumored to be really hard on front tires, so it might not be the tires...
I've had this problem since my was 30K, 3 years ago. Now it's 110K. I went to dealership 4 times, and they claimed they couldn't hear the sound. We even drove together, but the service manager insisted that he couldn't hear the sound. There is a service bulletin that you can find in this edmunds. Anyway, my car runs fine, in that area, even though I would hear rattling from time to time.
Once the OEM tires worn, I replaced them with Kumho - very satisfying, much better (and cheaper) than the OEM (Continental). I have Yokohama Avid TRZ currently on the car, since I think it has better value.
I have the same model. I have not had a noise problem. Replaced my OEM's with Goodrich, size 225. Costco told me that I could go up and the they are made by Michelin. I have no problems. I thought the law was that OEM tire replacement had to be the same exact size?
This text was taken from the service manual....sorry, but I couldn't copy the associated diagrams that go with it....Hopefully, this info will assist you...
Disassembly
1. Turn the mirror glass surface upward. 2. Apply a protective tape (A) to mirror housing. Insert a suitable tool (B) into the concave gap between the mirror holder (1) and mirror motor (2) Push up tabs (3) (two locations) on the mirror holder to disengage the lower part of mirror holder, and remove the mirror body assembly. NOTE: When pushing up tabs (3), do not forcefully push up only one concave position but try to push up two concave positions.
3. Remove the mirror body (1) from the mirror housing assembly (2). 4. Disconnect the two terminals from the mirror heater connector. 5. Remove the screws and power unit from the housing.
Assembly
1. Install the mirror motor. 2. Install the mirror cover. 3. Place mirror holder bracket and mirror body assembly (actuator) in a horizontal position. 4. Connect two terminals on the heater installed mirror. 5. Engage the upper tabs on the mirror body (1) onto the mirror motor (2) Then press the lower side of mirror face until a click sound is heard to engage the lower tabs. NOTE: After installation, visually make sure lower two tabs are securely engaged from the bottom of mirror face. Make sure to insert the harness terminals into the correct connector. Do not confuse the locations.
If by Goodrich you mean BF Goodrich, they're not part of Michelin but they are good. BFG is American and Micheline are French
I think that I'm going to go with the BFG Traction TA. They're 91 a pice at BJs and I know a few people with them that are pleased. I always had good luch with BFGs. I love the Michelins that I put on my wife's Pathfinder but the Alt doesn't get driven enough to justify that extra expense. I'm hoping that BJs will have that coupon in the next couple of weeks
Prologue - I stand corrected. BFG is owned by Michelin but I think manufactured in the US. I got the T rated traction TAs and so far, so good. They're quieter than the OEM bridgestones and the traction feels good. I got a chance to test it out with the snow yesterday and really not bad.
I'm pretty sure you can buy sealants, but I wouldn't recomend it. just buy yourself a new radiator and save a lot of hassle and head ace in the future.
The sealant will clog the heck out of the entire cooling system. Definately penny wise pound foolish. There are some head gasket sealants that are worth the bother, but not just for a radiator
Do you have traction control? With 240 going to the front wheels, it won't take much to break em loose. Even with my 4, I never found the car to be too good in the snow because the front wheel wells get packed with snow
I have a 2005 nissan altima, it has the check engine light on, it stalls many times on low speeds, I had the cam sensor and the crankshaft sensor newly installed and still have the same problem plus the RPMs are now higher than before, I had diagnostic test and the errors it gave me were the engine speed signal circuit, the idle speed is higher/lower than expected and i still get the crankshaft sensor error can anybody help me? What should I do next?
In general, it seems that the most of I have heard is that don't bother wasting time on the check engine light. I had a toyota Mr2 and lived with it for 9 years and 220,000 miles. I live in Maryland and we get a radio and tv program called "Goss' Garage." This guy is a master diagnostician. He also takes calls while he is in his office. So, check him out. By the way, I am not related to him in any way. I do know that when he recommends a repair shop, they are usually top notch. Case In point. My sons has a 300Z which had a transmission slipping problem. The shop he went to on Goss recommendation did a ton of work fixing the problem, at a reasonable price.
Help please! i have a 2008 Altima (sedan), last nite when i went out for dinner, left the lights on and after an hr and a half came back the car would not start. Called AAA and they jumpstarted the car. But interestingly the radio panel (radio, cd etc) does not turn on at all. Do you think something shorted or do i have to run the car longer (already ran it for 20 mins last nite and about 35 mins this morning). I want to see if there is something else that can be done before i take it to a Nissan Dealer. has any one experienced this? pls help
The last time I used AAA for a starting problem, they sent one of their battery vans. The driver ran a diagnostic, which printed out the results. I ended up with a new battery. Fast quick and easy. With a good warranty.
deffintily something wrong there. the altima has a battery saver feature that will turn off the headlights after 5 minutes. Your lights should have gone out on their own.
In general, it seems that the most of I have heard is that don't bother wasting time on the check engine light. I had a toyota Mr2 and lived with it for 9 years and 220,000 miles
unless you have to deal with emmisions. inspections. where I live (VA) they will automatically fail a car with a check engine light on.
The "time delay" on the switch located with the lights must be selected before the lights will turn off automatically. If the switch is in the "time delay" mode, you have a problem as they should have turned off automatically, otherwise it may be operator error or some other problem.
no, your wrong. You don't have to do anything. the lights will automaticly turn themselves off. there is no switch that must be selected. and before you argue with me, I own a 2007 altima 2.5s and have tested it. once the car is turned off, the lights are on a 5 minute timer.
Well then I sure would like to know what that time delay, actually it is labeled as "auto", part of the light switch is for on our 2008 2.5 SL. I did not catch what year Altima was being discussed so it is quite likely an older model would not have this item.
It's a 2008. and I'll quote from the owners manual, page 2-29
"Battery saver system If the ignition switch is turned OFF while the headlight switch is in the on position, the headlights will turn off after 5 minutes.
what your talking about is the autolight system on the sl models which allows you to set the lights to go off after a set time period. or come on when it gets dark. there are probably a couple other things it can do.
but what I'm taking about is a standard feature on all altima's.
Was not aware of that feature. Be a good idea to break out the manual. I would then have to say there may be an electrical problem which can be a veritable son-of-a-gun to track down. Should there be a warranty in effect for this sort of thing? Good luck!
Sorry about the error on my above post. I believe it was the air bypass valve. It was many years ago and I can't find the receipt. Not sure if all vehicles have that item, or maybe by a different name.
Yes! There has been a recall for this. It is to reprogram the computer.
I had replaced both sensors before the recall to reprogram the computer was put in place....nissan refused to refund me for replacing the sensors even though if I would have not had the computer error, i would not have had to replace the sensors and risk my and my childrens' lives when the car died while merging onto the hwy. Can you tell I'm pissed.
New purchase Feb. 23, 2008 Altima SL....drove 2 weeks; would not start. Dealer kept for week and replaced starter on March 14 and car was picked up on Good Friday, drove out of town Saturday, and guess what? On Easter..it would not start. Had to be towed by wrecker to Dealer on Monday. ECM was replaced on 3/26 Wednesday....now Service Manager says there is a code showing up that it has a CLUTCH problem~?!? Funny...it's an automatic, 4 cylinder!! He wants to keep it until the middle of next week?~!? Any advice from knowledgeable gentlemen and ladies....please?~!? SP :lemon:
Protect your self in the clinches. Get the names of everyone you spoke with about your problem, Get dates and make notes for yourself or sent confirming e mail. If and when you get into a dispute, you will have iron clad evidence of your efforts.
I had the same problem on mine. Very easy! Buy a new distributor with Lifetime warranty and you won't have problem anymore. I would consider ONE ADRESS to buy NEW NISSAN distributor at a very good price. It costs me 160$ + free shipping to repair this nightmare. In other case, you will get scrap yards distributor with the same problem or buy expensive rebuilt worst than scrap Nissan original parts. Buy Online from King Distributor in New York. Here is the Adress or call them v link title
I've looked around this forum for a post like this but could not find one (sorry in advance if this was posted already!) In nov. I bought a 1999 Altima GXE 2.4 lit. engine, with no issues whatsover The car now has around 129k and till today ran great. This morning I used to car to go work to pick up some papers and noticed no problems, I turned it off when I got home, and turned it back on when I had to pick up my son from school and the battery light in the dash turned on, what I noticed that was weird was that in conjunction with that light the brake light for the e-brake was on as well even if the E-brake was in a disengaged, drove it picked up my son and while I pulling in all the electrical shut off and the car did not turn on again. I went and bought a new battery thinking that the battery was dead but the battery light and the brake light are still on even when the ebrake is disengaged. I've undone all the fuses thinking that maybe that was an issue but it still stays on. I got some new speakers put into the car at an audio store and thought maybe something they did messed up the battery, so I unplugged the fuse for the audio and still nothing. I'm just afraid that if I keep driving the car this new battery will die on me as well. The car is great and want to keep it for a long time, I just don't think it's a good thing that my first issue with the car could be the costliest, please if anyone knows the answer let me know and I really appreciate this in advance!!!
New to the Site I posted this earlier on the TSB menu. Not sure if that was correct so I'll post it her also. My wife leased a 2007 nissan altima. We have not had it more than 9 months and it has been in the shop 8 times for the same reason. The car was dead this morning. She sets the auto headlight feature on the car. The last time she took it in they said they replaced the, "light sensor unit", and the problem would stop. Wrong. The car I believe has 7,000 miles on it (oil was changed 2 weeks ago). She wants to return it as a "LEMON". She kept all documentation regarding this problem and the issue. Does anyone out there have any knowledge of this problem with the 2007 Altima? Also, does she have a case with the "LEMON" situation of the car. My wife explaind to me she had received last week a recall on a "on board emission computer problem". Guess it senses a problem with the catalytic converter and a light will go on (she has an Official Nissan recall letter). When talking to the dealership this morning they first had no knowledge of this recall and was also told that this may contribute to the problem she is experiencing. They told her to tow the car to the dealership. Need your guys help...
haven't heard of any of those problems. In fact, aside from occasional complaints about squeaks or vibrations I haven't heard of any problems with the 2007. sounds like you have yourself a :lemon: . At any rate, electrical problems are a nightmare to track down and fix, even for trained techs. I'd try to get another car if i were you.
Hi all, new to this forum. I have a 2005 altima 2.5S with 95,000 miles. Everytime i switch to D drive from a P parked position and drive, i hear a rattle from under the hood. It only happens from the Park to drive situation and never reoccurs as i drive.It does not occur if i go from P park to R reverse. I thought it was the heat shield but it's not because i took it to a mechanic. Does anyone have this problem and did u find a solution?
Does the rattle sound a little like a Buzz? Is it very precise, short and a little like a pump? It's most likely the ABS system initalizing. It's pressurizing the servos and doing a self check with the speed sensors. It can only do this when you first start rolling. On some cars it will do it while in reverse, others in drive.
My wife also heard thsi noise. I haven't noticed it, but I've probably used to it form the '04 Accord I had.
Comments
2. The Altimas in that year group do have a oil seepage problem. Can't be 100% positive that is your problem. I drilled the hole in mine. Had it cleaned up, you may need new parts if they are oily. No more problems.
3. Just because the dealer says the computer says you need a part doesn't make it so. I.E. your computer. I had an 87 Reliant that was hesitating. Dealer said the computer found 3 bad parts. $200 each and no guaranty it will solve he problem. But, had to start there. I said NO, took it to a recommended GOOD mechanic. He found the problem in ten minutes, no diagnostics. $80 and no more problem.
4. In my case the car just shut off, that's why I said I can't be 100% sure it is your problem. Do some research and find a very reputable private mechanic.
Good Luck,
Ken
I have never heard any complaints about the brakes before. If they are indeed oversensitive, something may be improperly installed. Get them checked by a mechanic.
But the problem is when I put it in D mode and press the petrol peddle, the pickup is not at enough speed, e.g. I am waiting in the Signal Lights and the light is Green all the vehicles goes speed but i am the last one start move slowely.
The Gear is OK, the Oil is Full and in OK condition but i don't know why pickup very slowely.
is it possible that the gear filter not clean enough or any thing wrong with the transmission.
It needs to be checked by a transmission shop or dealer.
Good Luck,
E.D. in Sunny Florida
There is a service bulletin that you can find in this edmunds.
Anyway, my car runs fine, in that area, even though I would hear rattling from time to time.
Disassembly
1. Turn the mirror glass surface upward.
2. Apply a protective tape (A) to mirror housing. Insert a suitable
tool (B) into the concave gap between the mirror holder (1) and
mirror motor (2) Push up tabs (3) (two locations) on the mirror
holder to disengage the lower part of mirror holder, and remove
the mirror body assembly.
NOTE:
When pushing up tabs (3), do not forcefully push up only one
concave position but try to push up two concave positions.
3. Remove the mirror body (1) from the mirror housing assembly
(2).
4. Disconnect the two terminals from the mirror heater connector.
5. Remove the screws and power unit from the housing.
Assembly
1. Install the mirror motor.
2. Install the mirror cover.
3. Place mirror holder bracket and mirror body assembly (actuator) in a horizontal position.
4. Connect two terminals on the heater installed mirror.
5. Engage the upper tabs on the mirror body (1) onto the mirror
motor (2) Then press the lower side of mirror face until a click
sound is heard to engage the lower tabs.
NOTE:
After installation, visually make sure lower two tabs are securely
engaged from the bottom of mirror face.
Make sure to insert the harness terminals into the correct connector.
Do not confuse the locations.
I think that I'm going to go with the BFG Traction TA. They're 91 a pice at BJs and I know a few people with them that are pleased. I always had good luch with BFGs. I love the Michelins that I put on my wife's Pathfinder but the Alt doesn't get driven enough to justify that extra expense. I'm hoping that BJs will have that coupon in the next couple of weeks
Ken
i have a 2008 Altima (sedan), last nite when i went out for dinner, left the lights on and after an hr and a half came back the car would not start. Called AAA and they jumpstarted the car. But interestingly the radio panel (radio, cd etc) does not turn on at all. Do you think something shorted or do i have to run the car longer (already ran it for 20 mins last nite and about 35 mins this morning). I want to see if there is something else that can be done before i take it to a Nissan Dealer.
has any one experienced this?
pls help
i think highly unlikely!
unless you have to deal with emmisions. inspections. where I live (VA) they will automatically fail a car with a check engine light on.
"Battery saver system
If the ignition switch is turned OFF while the
headlight switch is in the on position,
the headlights will turn off after 5 minutes.
what your talking about is the autolight system on the sl models which allows you to set the lights to go off after a set time period. or come on when it gets dark. there are probably a couple other things it can do.
but what I'm taking about is a standard feature on all altima's.
Sorry about the error on my above post. I believe it was the air bypass valve. It was many years ago and I can't find the receipt. Not sure if all vehicles have that item, or maybe by a different name.
Ken
I had replaced both sensors before the recall to reprogram the computer was put in place....nissan refused to refund me for replacing the sensors even though if I would have not had the computer error, i would not have had to replace the sensors and risk my and my childrens' lives when the car died while merging onto the hwy. Can you tell I'm pissed.
Anyway, get that done and you should be ok.
Good luck!
Sam
Any advice from knowledgeable gentlemen and ladies....please?~!?
SP
1-866-699-5464
I posted this earlier on the TSB menu.
Not sure if that was correct so I'll post it her also.
My wife leased a 2007 nissan altima. We have not had it more than 9 months and it has been in the shop 8 times for the same reason. The car was dead this morning.
She sets the auto headlight feature on the car. The last time she took it in they said they replaced the, "light sensor unit", and the problem would stop. Wrong.
The car I believe has 7,000 miles on it (oil was changed 2 weeks ago). She wants to return it as a "LEMON".
She kept all documentation regarding this problem and the issue.
Does anyone out there have any knowledge of this problem with the 2007 Altima?
Also, does she have a case with the "LEMON" situation of the car.
My wife explaind to me she had received last week a recall on a "on board emission computer problem". Guess it senses a problem with the catalytic converter and a light will go on (she has an Official Nissan recall letter). When talking to the dealership this morning they first had no knowledge of this recall and was also told that this may contribute to the problem she is experiencing.
They told her to tow the car to the dealership.
Need your guys help...
Is that the issue that you need to have it fixed 8 times?
If it's, I just don't think you can classify that as a lemon. I would just turn off myself to avoid the issue, just IMO.
My wife also heard thsi noise. I haven't noticed it, but I've probably used to it form the '04 Accord I had.