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Please give me some advice ASAP. . .
THANKS GUYS :confuse:
Have a question. I have a 2004 Eddie Bauer Expedition. Whenever I close the liftgate (back door), there's a rattle around the door handle/license plate area. However, everything appears to be secure. I cannot make the door rattle when it's open. I have no idea what might be lose or not engaging properly when I close the door.
The door closes tight and the rattle only occurs during closing, not after the door is closed. Has anyone else experienced this? I guess I expect a solid "thunk" when I close the door. It's more of a nuisance than anything else, but I am fishing to see if it's a warranty item since I still have about 400 miles left on the warranty for this puppy.
Thanks in advance for your help.
i just dont want them to take one from another truck or do a quick fix on mine and then warrenty it and collect the $$$ and say they put a new one in mine .. isnt there like a "box top" or like a serial # i can get for the "new" one they put in mine so i can use that if i have a problem with it????? I just dont wanna leave thinking, ok, i got me a new rack. . .and then have problems with it also.
Thanks
ITS WORSE THEN WHEN I BROUGHT IT IN
The groaning is so loud now that i can feel the vibration thru the floorboard. .
they replaced the steering gear and yes on turning is a bit tighter, but on the straight away, same amount of dead zone/play in the steering wheel. . .no change there.
i have a STACK of work orders and work thats been done on the Expy since i bought it 8 months ago. . im so over it, i cant take it anymore. . .i have a huge loan with 4+ years to pay on it. . im not gonna go thru this for 4 more years. .
they better be able to just take it back. . . its not gonna be pretty when i go there on monday. . ugh. . hate to do it cause i love my Expy, but this just validates fords bad reputation and that the dealerships cant and WONT find and fix certain problems.
I own a 2006 King Ranch Expedition. It has 7,000 miles on it and today I heard a loud rattle on/around the tailgate. I secured the license plate and the dealer plate frame around it, but it still rattles. I will take it in tomorrow, but I think there is a noise buffer - made of plastic - that runs up and down along the inside of the rear frame - it is about 20 inches long on the left and right hand side of the inside entry way. When the tailgate closes, it rests against these two side panels and I think they can buffer out any rattling.
When I close the tailgate and then press gently on frame I can hear a rubbing, or clicking noise, on the left side right where the door rests against this plastic strip that is attached onto the inside well of the Exp. frame.
You can find these two bugger strips just above the rear tail lights on either side of the inside frame.
I will ask about your problem tomorrow too - I reckon the tailgate weights in between 60 to 100 lbs (??) so it needs to fit just right otherwise it will rattle.
One of the big challenges SUV makers had - easily by the late 90s' - was dealing with the car-like demands SUV buyers were making. Big SUVs have add-ons that weigh alot and the components that take up space. Over time, these things bend, shift, and even warp (ie., inside plastic door panels).
Thus far I have only had to replace a rear passenger door window frame strip (a rubber band that seals the space between the inside frame and window). I see, however, that the driver side exterior strip - on the top right hand corner - sits up a little high (as in it wasn't flush to the car frame when they installed it).
All this to say, I think if you want to buy a good SUV, it is worth walking around the vehicle and equally so, paying close attention to the inside, with a view to picking out those things that are going to warp, crack, shift, and rattle.
Goodluck!
Thanks,
James
Thanks for your help!
Just a follow up to the rattling tailgate. My own situation appears to be resolved. The mechanics placed a load of what looks like colorless grease on the two side latches on the tailgate - when you close it they connect with the main frame via two latch counterparts and a cork sized stopper. They also tightened some screws, but I can't see where exactly. Lastly, they may have added more glue to the two latches that attach to the rear window on the inside from the tailgate frame (you have to look underneath when you pop open the back window to see where the hinge affixes).
They said uts was standard practice on a rattle like this. My own hunch with your rattle is that it has to do with the top hinges (either on the window or the tailgate), as opposed to a feature that helps the door sit left to right - just thinking about what the physics on opening and closing.
You may also want to get an estimate - if it isn't more than tightening and slathering the back door in grease (geez, I thought about putting the groceries in and all this guck - I joked that maybe they should have tried bubblegum - but it looks fine and the ride is quiet and I don't expect to get the interior messed up.)
In short, maybe they will only charge labor (i.e., a half hour), or you may want to tinker with it yourself.
As a side note, I checked out the 2007 Exp. EL Eddie Bauer and it has a power rear door using a single hydraulic arm on the driver's side.
I got a trade in estimate on the King Ranch, currently with $44,000 outstanding - with a dealer trade in value of $23,000. This is below the bluebook by about 2k, but it shows the rapid depreciation - explained in part by the 2007 new model year.
In any event, I am happy with the Exp. and frankly prefer the 4 speed to a 6. I can't say owning this beast surprises me because I knew what I was getting into from the get go - we love the space and safety. Also, I bought a massive warranty (and thus the decision to get it new) - it is a combo of the manufacturer, dealer, and a private company. Because I have relied on it twice already (for this rattle and a warped strip on the interior), I have no regrets.
Besides, how else can you move thousands of pounds of steel off a red light with car-like performance. In short, I hedged on all this and can't complain. You may be able to get a deal on the labor for a rattle - it shouldn't require a new part as near as I can see.
Good luck with getting the rattle fixed!
James
Looks like you and I are the only ones posting anything on this board :P . Thanks for the details on the rattle. It's bugging me from just a "what the heck is doing that" perspective. I'll take your advice and take a look at it.
The Expy just went out of warranty last week when it topped 36K miles. I don't have the ESP, so it's all on me now.
I just bought it used in October, and I have been very happy with it. I paid $19,500 for a 2004 Eddie Bauer Expedition with all the bells and whistles except navigation. It was the best price I could find for one with what I wanted. I spent a lot of time on ebay trying to get a deal, but in the end, those cars were going for what I could pay locally. And why buy off ebay sight unseen if you can get one locally and test drive it.
But truth be told, I bought this one from a dealer in Mobile, Alabama that my dad has bought several cars from. He deals in high end late model foreign cars and received this Expy as a trade for a used Lexus. He cut me a nice deal and tossed in a new set of rims and tires. It had come with 22" chrome "dubs", which I didn't want to keep (not to mention the fact that the tire pressure monitoring system won't work with chrome wheels). So I sold the 22" rims and tires to my neighbor who sold them to someone else on CraigsList.
Anyway, as you noted, it's great for hauling stuff. I've used it twice already to haul lumber for two bookcase jobs at our house. It was so nice to fit a half sheet of plywood easily in the back laying flat!
My boys LOVE the SUV. My 2.5 year old can barely say "Expedition" but he says it every time we head to school. It's nice too in that my 6 year old sits in the "way back" and the 2.5 year old in the middle row. So no fights. Plus that DVD player and wireless headphones have been such a plus for long trips (two so far). We don't let them use it around town.
I've been averaging 15.5 MPG with mostly city driving, but we managed to get 20 MPG on our last road trip.
Strangely, I also find myself driving more slowly than with my old Passat wagon. I seldom go over the speed limit, but it could be because this thing weighs a bunch, and I don't want to waste gas just getting her going.
Anyway, thanks again for all the info!
Bronson Beisel
It is a new problem to this new season of rain (Fall 06), never happened before.
When I switch from 2wd to 4awd there is an initial "clank" and I feel the vibration under my feet. Then there is no noise at all, even when I switch it back to 2wd. But, if I then switch back over to 4awd I hear a "clank" again.
Anyone have any suggestions?
The clank in my front end was due to the fact that the two half shafts driving the front wheels were turning in different directions when in 2WD. The clank is the sound of the one half shaft changing directions as the 4Auto is engaged. The fix was to install an "S spring" or something like that which kept the half shafts moving in the same direction as each other when in 2WD. Once they are moving in the same direction there is no noise at all when 4Auto is engaged.
I think if you describe the TSB to a service advisor they should be able to find it. I think the TSB updated at least once since I had mine done, but I think it came out in early 2003.
Karl
A week ago I started to notice that it was idling rough (though not as bad) and then the check engine light came on. I left it at the dealer and they said it was a second o2 sensor, and the catalytic converter needed to be replaced. I'm at 39k miles right now and it's starting to bother me that I'm already starting to have these kind of problems. Is there a reason the O2 sensors are failing at this rate? I get all my services on time, and 99% of my miles are highway. It's pretty much running under ideal conditions. Any suggestions or ideas?
If you hit the lock button once, all the doors lock in silent mode.
If you hit the lock button twice, you get one horn chirp if all doors are closed securely, two horn chirps if one or more doors is ajar.
Mark.
If you have ever had a thick cookie sheet in the oven and set it to preheat...when the metal hetas up it makes a "thud." It is that same kinf od sound only significantly louder.
Seems to come from both sides at the rear of the vehicle. There is nothing leaking and mechanically the car drives fine.
It in 2w drive at the moment...although this occurs in all settings. Any suggestiongs?
Anyway, at first I was a bit daunted because there didn't seem to be any easy access to the oil filter. It was impossible to get to from the top of the engine. Below the engine, it seemed like I needed to contort myself to get to it.
Then when I crawled out from under the truck, I noticed that Ford had designed it so that you could access the oil filter from just under the front of the truck. If you go under the front of the bumper and look up on the driver's side of the truck, you'll see the oil filter. The designers left a small opening there and even put a shelf of sorts underneath it.
When I took the oil filter off, the shelf caught oil dripping from the filter bolt, and I was easily able to clean it up.
Detroit got something right, and I just wanted to say I was quite impressed with how easy it was.
The whole oil change and fluid top off took me about 30 minutes. It usually takes me 45 minutes on my wife's Passat (15 minutes to remove and re-attach that plastic lower engine area shield).
Just wanted to share!
1). is the an online repair manuel available for a 2003 expedition?
2). mine no longer will raise & lower the passenger front window. other than the obvious 3 screws removed, what's the trick to getting the interior panel off without damage?
please reply here, or better yet:
scott@mainstreetproduce.com
thanks in advance.
scott
Yes, but....
There's something called the Auto Repair Reference Center. It's an online database with all kinds of repair info. You have to have a login to access it though. Around here several libraries subscribe to it and you either go to library or (hopefully) can get on from home with your library card number or similar password. If you have that, it's free.
I found my local ones by net searching "Auto Repair Reference Center Idaho."
There's also alldata.com and chiltondiy.com (and more) that have diy info that you can buy.
I don't recall anything online from Ford off-hand - anyone?
forgive me, but i'm not familar with your refernce to "libraries", as in "Around here several libraries subscribe to it ".
if one would explain, i do appreciate it.
please & thank you.
scott
I guess you'll have to search the net or call your local library to learn if anything is offered free in your area.
Oh yeah, AutoZone also offers some repair instructions free. (link).
I just signed up and seen this. I guess by the date you posted this you by now have the problem fixed if not please let me know.
David
Thanks.
Thanks in advance for your assistance.
My '99's back end was bouncing around after a coupler failed under the hood. I heard a pfffhht sound like an air brake on a truck, then the back end wouldn't raise up anymore even though the compressor kept trying. I was parked and idling on a steep hill when it failed.
If you don't hear the compressor trying to pump up the air bags, it's probably a fuse.
Good luck.
Ford
Trucks, SUVs & Vans. there are charts, diagrams and pictures showing parts and wiring etc.
Hope this helps.
My 2000 Expy CD-Changer stopped working months ago and displayed "NO CDDJ" on the radio display when I push the CD button. The changer had no power and wouldn't eject the magazine.
I wrongfully made the assumption that the changer was dead and sent it in for repair. Just got it back and it tests OK. Put it back in and the same error is displayed. All the audio fuses on the fuse block and under-hood fuse block check OK.
What else can it be? Is there another fuse to the changer unit in the console or under the dash somewhere? Could the head unit be damaged? Short of solving this myself, will the dealer even be able to diagnose radio problems very well with a scope or other tools?
Thanks in advance.
However, the positive cable was so corroded that I couldn't remove it. I looked at buying a new positive cable. I didn't check Ford, but AutoZone had one for $80 (positive and negative together).
After fretting about the delay to get the cable (at least 3 days), I opted to try something else. I found a Lynx battery post adapter that clamps to the post and provides a bolt to hook cables to.
The Expy battery has three items that bolt to the positive post. The bottom "cable" actually has the post welded to it that the two other cables attach to. That's also the cable that was so corroded I could not remove it.
Anyway, I bought the Lynx post adapter and also bought a new DL-65 battery from AutoZone (CR best buy). I removed the negative cable and then cut the corroded bolt off on the positive side. I then proceeded to cut the corroded clamp part off of the positive cable. I was left with enough surface area and that little post. I cut off the post, drilled a hole in the flat part, mounted it on that post and then attached the other two cables above it.
All worked well - no problem with starting or charging system. Total investment was $5.00 for the post adapter and $70 for the new battery. Much better than waiting 3 days for the new cable. I don't know if this is a kosher way of dealing with the problem, but it was sure a convenient and cost-effective way.
BTW, we will get 55k miles on the oem conti tires. Had to replace 1 tire do to a sidewall flat and used the spare tire across from the new tire putting the older tire on the spare rim.
Thanks for your time.
Shane
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I own a 97 Eddie Baur Expedition too and with the same noise problem when the compressor kicks in. Right now my rear wheels are low and wont get up. Your advice please.
Thanks,
Cadet.">
Plus the A/C seems to take a long time to get cold. Haven't brought it in yet, but just wondering if anyone else has had the same problem, or might know what is causing it. Of course when I go in, the dealership will probably give me the old "well we can't replicate the problem" routine, so I know I'm going to be frustrated as usual. Please help !!