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Also, I turned on my car last night to find that my headlights weren't working. My parking lights and my high beams work, it's just my low beams. I assume it's something wrong with my switcher. Has anyone else had this problem?
anyone here have a clue as to why the 210 hp engine
would require premium gas? Do you believe the
compression ratio of this engine has any bearing on this?
Thanks, folks!
berbel
I have not asked but it is very likely one of these engines that will run regular if you want, but with reduced performance. You could ask the dealership this question...
It's a nice car - I would just pay for the premium gas...
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
As nippononly says, the real difference is going to be in performance. The engine won't produce the same levels of performance with lower octane gas. But the OM specifically states that the engine can use either.
Still, the extra performance is worth the price of premium, in my estimation. If you don't want the extra edge, the base is still a very sweet car and (as some in here have pointed out) it actually has better torque at lower ends.
Josh
The only benefits of the Type S over the base model WILL be found when being pushed to the limits of the suspension and the RPM gauge. In other words...spirited driving.
I, personally, would not want my daughter to have the resources at her disposal.
Again, I don't know the situation and I can only speak on my own behalf.
Thanks!
I get 31 very regularly with little variation in daily driving (commute, errands, and the like). Mine is a base with stick, and I drive moderately enthusiastically! :-P
I have got as high as 36 mpg in highway trips at 70-75 mph. If I were to take those long drives more slowly and focus on fuel saving, I am sure I could get 40 mpg.
As far as the highway part, the same should be true of the type-S, since it has the same final drive for the manual in top gear (I believe).
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I don't do a lot of real short start and stop stuff - I drive quite a lot. Fill-ups come at least once a week.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I think nippononly is right, and the stick is a huge part of it. I don't take the car on short hops (under 1.5 miles) all that often, but still...just another reason to go with a manual.
Don't forget the fuel gauge will move a bit as you round corners fast, and also as you go up or downhill, because the gas is sloshing around in the tank.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
They have no idea what was actually causing the noise. They've taken apart, re-sealed, added insullation, and put back together piece by piece the entire front end. A file had to be opened on this service and the repairs, so if I have future issue with it, at least I have that to go back on.
At 70 to 75 I routinely get 34 to 35. Low 20's around town, but then again I love that high reving engine and six speed. Reminds me of my CBR 1000. The RSX hits ignition cut out when it is pulling like crazy. The CBR keeps going to 10,500.
On this topic, I've been regularly averaging about 24-26 MPG on 50/50 city/hwy driving and about 29-31 on 25/75 city/hwy driving. So in other words, I'm getting around what Acura states (24/31).
I also consider myself a moderately spirited driver, wherein I'll hit the red line on occasion. :-) For anyone wondering, I have a 2002 Type-S w/ some mods but nothing engine/performance-related.
my RSX'03's approaching 50K miles, end of warranty. Driver's side window used to get stuck in cold weather. After each complain, dealer'd put some more grease into guide channel, nothing more than that.
I've got a feeling this window will die on me next winter, leaving me some $600 lighter.
Any chance I can get Acura USA to acknowledge problem and extend warranty? Did anyone here actually use "implied warranty", when Acura picks up repair labor tab?
Many a thank, vickat
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
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i have an automatic 2002 rsx and was trying out different things in the back alley...for example, putting the car in neutral and revving up the engine at the same time and then shifting to drive while the engine is revving at 4-5000 rpm...when i do that that car screeches and jerks forward...i am assuming that is normal behavior...is it?...also, is there a correct way to do what i am trying to do? will harm my engine in any way?...its just that i wanted to get a good headstart at the traffic lights against the other cars...thanks a bunch for any input...
i have an automatic 2002 rsx and was trying out different things in the back alley...for example, putting the car in neutral and revving up the engine at the same time and then shifting to drive while the engine is revving at 4-5000 rpm...when i do that that car screeches and jerks forward...i am assuming that is normal behavior...is it?...also, is there a correct way to do what i am trying to do? will harm my engine in any way?...its just that i wanted to get a good headstart at the traffic lights against the other cars...thanks a bunch for any input...
LMAO!
My brother was doing the same thing w/ his rental cars. He told me "I found out how to spin the tires on a rental car!" Dude, if you're serious about this, I hope you know you are putting unnecessary (and possibly extreme) wear and tear on your engine and especially the transmission. If you want to spin tires, you should've gotten a manny tranny.
Any comments?
Of course, I'm not found in alleys trying to spin my wheels either.
:-)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
For the first 1,000 miles, I tried following the "break in" rules (Drive within the speed limit, do not redline, yada yada yada). However, I couldn't resist taking over 100 mph 2 or three times within that period. I just couldn't resist.
Anyway, during the third and fourth week, I started to feel the "crunch". For those who don't know what that is, it's the occasional crunchy/sticky grind feeling when shifting from 1st-2nd and 2nd-3rd gear. At first it was a little scary and annoying. Now it is becoming a problem.
In the beginning I thought it was MY shifting. But NOW problems exactly like mine are arising. Other owners are experiencing the same "crunch" when they shift. In one case, an owner who's had his Type-S for 6 mo. / 7k mi. claimed that the car barely shifted, and the gears would grind almost every single shift. He reported the problem to the Acura Client Services but it still has not been resolved.
I am scared. Will the crunch worsen and be in the same situation at 7,000 miles?
I also heard that there are several petitions out there for Acura to fix this problem.
Has anyone else experienced the "crunch"? Does anyone know of any petition?
Thanks!
45,000 miles later, the problem has begun to manifest itself again during full power acceleration runs. I'll have it adjusted again, and expect the problem will go away.
Other interesting note about this gearbox - 5th to 6th has never worked well. There is a hard spot half way through the stick's travel. Other than in the mountains, I have little use for 5th gear in this car, and usually make the 4 to 6 shift instead. The 4 to 6 shifting does not appear to bother the gearbox.
Too bad the car has these annoying problems. It's so fun to drive otherwise!
That is where all the RSX pricing questions/answers belong.
Thanks!
I went to get my car washed today. When I got it back, they left it engaged on the 1st gear. Usually the car wash people do that. When I turned the ignition on and began pulling out of the place, I felt a slight difference. It felt like the car was more responsive. Shifting was easier, no "crunchy/notchy" feeling from 1st to 2nd gear. I wonder if leaving the car engaged has anything to do with it. When I first drove my Type-S from the dealership, my agent told me to always leave it engaged in first. After a few days when I would start up my car, I would always forget that it's on 1st, so it would jolt. I got tired of it so from then on, I left it in neutral.
I'm going to leave it engaged in 1st gear for a while and see if the "crunchy/notchy" feeling will go away. Does anyone else leave it in 1st gear, or is it just me that leaves it in neutral all the time?
Sorry to hear about your troubles. I have heard of other people having problems with rocks.
Do yourself a favor. Once you get the radiator fixed, go down to your local Home Depot or Lowes and buy a piece of aluminum gutter guard. Use a piece of cardboard and make a template of your lower air opening (where the radiator is exposed)
Once you get the cardboard to fit nicely,....so that it fits up behind the license plate holder (if applicable). It should be able to slide in from one side and go right behind the license plate holder.
Transfer the shape over to the aluminum gutter guard and cut out the shape with some tin snips. File the sharp edges off as best you can and insert it the same way you did the cardboard. Being careful not to scratch your paint.
Fasten it to the verticle supports that should end up right behind the guard.
I used a couple of tie wraps on the verticle supports to keep it in place. They can be attached from the front by pre-bending them into a fish hook shape and feeding them in from the front through the holes in the mesh.
Total cost if you have to buy the tin snips? 12 -15 bucks
Or you can go out and buy a "real" guard for some ungodly price.
I left mine aluminum colored because it matches the rims nicely.
Acura cars and service are a heck of a lot better than many companies out there, trust me.
I agree that it is a flaw in the design and they should fix it this one time.
It could just be the dealer that you are going to.
My dealer replaced my OEM foglights twice for free (once in the winter of 2001/2002 and again the following winter) they didn't have to but they did...probably because people were having issues with the OEM fogs. The second time they replaced them , they used some premium fogs and I haven't had issues since.
I'm a little confused about this....you can't start without depressing the clutch, so how could this be? I always leave it in the gear I expect to start in...1st or reverse.
BTW, I also have a little of this problem...occasionally, if I'm a little sloppy, 3rd gear won't engage well and it may pop out. I plan to have it looked at. I have an '02 type S.
I also had a '90 integra gs up until last year and I absolutely swear by acura. The only major repair I needed was a new radiator, but it was because a faulty cap (didn't release pressure) caused the lid of the radiator to crack. Otherwise, normal wear and tear items like brake pads (once), timing belt (once), clutch (once), etc. needed to be replaced. I ended up donating the car three months ago because the alternator called it quits. The engine was still in pretty good condition and I was getting 31 mpg! I ended that relationship with 170K of miles. My dad also had an '87 integra ls that lasted 230K.
Anyway, I am reaching about 5K miles on my new '05 RSX and I am getting the oil changed. Any reason why it only takes 5W20? That seems awfully thin.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Anyone else here have any luck with their windshield/IP rattle? My dealer is not one of the "better" dealers (anyone else remember what customer service was?) and won't reset the windshield like they should to eliminate the rattle.
Re: the radiator issue: I thought the '05 had a smaller lower fascia opening than the original fascia........I have an '02 and I saw that disaster waiting to happen!! I bought the $3 roll of black plastic gutter guard from the hardware store. It almost matches the upper grill!
I am really disappointed with Acura. I traded in my domestic for this car and so far I don't see much difference in the way they treat their customers and problems with their cars. They are still building RSXs with the windshield rattle and the notorious transmission issues, 3 years into production!!
I called the dealer and like always they seem to play me off like i'm making up some kind of story!! Seems in my 2002 RSX Automatic, when I am just about to park and I move my shifter in P postion, the idle needle drops and plays back and forth for a few seconds before reaching a steady idle?? but while driving and if I am at a stop sign (thereore the shifter stays in "D") the idel stays constant and perfect.
Any ideas what could cuase this??? please help...cant figure if out!
Anyone know why is it doing that or is it normal? Anyone have the same problem with their windows?
paulkramer - have you had the transmission issues? Do you mean the notchy 1-2 shift?
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)