Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to learn more!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Where's the clicking sound coming from? engine area? does it change with rpms?
hey when i start my car the engine maintance light comes on and off does yours ?
The car goes through a self test when it first starts up. You should only be concerned when the light stays on.
You will also notice that as your car approaches one of the scheduled maintenance mileages (5k miles, 10k miles etc) the light will stay on longer before going out...eventually staying on constantly. Which tells you that it's time for the scheduled maintenance.
I hit him with everything (TMV, sitting on the lot for 4 months, car purchased at Manheim) The dealer wouldn't budge off of $17.5 for the CPO - I laughed and left.
Went with the private owner - more miles than I wanted (48K), but it was clean...clean...clean (new brakes and tires). I took it to the dealer for the "150 point" (whatever) inspection and all they found wrong was windshield wiper blades. They performed the 50K service.
And, I got my new baby sub $15K - I am in love.
Here is question - at this point, do you think it is worth it to buy the warranty? One of the dealers around here has the 7yr/100K warranty for $1,140.
Did your 150 point inspection give you the compression numbers for the cylinders?
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
i heard integras to be one of the most stolen cars and wondering if Acura RSX 05 the same?
also, anyone know what to do to prevent kids from stealing the plastic ACura sign from the car?
p.s., the car is my first manual transmission car and I find it to be a bit slow to get it accelerated. Car can accelerate pretty easily once I get it to 3rd gear but, going from 1st to 2nd to 3rd seems to take more time than AUTOMATIC???
it it just that im not used to the manual transmission right now?
Going from 1st to 2nd seems to be slow because I have to switch so fast instead of letting me just press on the pedal...
i try to switch from 1st to 2nd as soon as it hits 3k rpm.... am i doing it too soon?
when do you guys normally switch gears? at 4k? at 2k?
The only way to keep the losers from stealing a PLASTIC emblem is to remove them .....the emblems, not the losers (reminds me of a Goodfellas scene)
I had mine stolen while parked at the train station. Got a replacement for about $18
Integras had no stock anti-theft, where RSX does, which is one of the reasons Integras got stolen so much. Also, thieves wanted the engines to "improve" their Civics and the like. Isn't it this generation where Honda reversed the spin of the engine, so that it would not swap over? Another impediment to being desirable to thieves.
as for shifting, in the base car shifting at 3K is short-shifting it. In the S, you have an extra gear, but I would still wind it out to at least 4K before shifting to second if you are trying to make a quick start. Remember, it has a 7000+ redline (hint: you can go even higher than 4K before the first shift if you are trying to be quick).
Of course, if you are in the break-in period, you may wish to short-shift until you get a few miles on it. I restrained myself at least partially for the first 1000 miles. Just don't lug it in the process.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
(1) Do the dash warning lights come on as usual when you turn the key?
(2) When the problem occurs, does it just sit there dead, or does it make an audible click? Or do you mean it cranks but won't turn over?
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
a) The dashboard lights do come on when I turn the key
b) The car cranks but won’t actually catch. So it makes the cranking sound like it's "trying" to turn over. It will just keep making that sound for as long as I keep holding the key. I will have to turn the key back, and then turn it again to get it to start. Usually (but not always) it will start the second time.
c) There are times when the car takes a couple seconds longer to start (like it’s hesitating) and other times when it starts instantly.
It has behaved this way since the day I bought it brand new. It is a completely random occurence. Thanks for your help!
After that, my bet would be on fuel, since primary ignition is so diversified these days with coil-on-plug that it is unlikely to get four cylinders ALL of which aren't firing.
It is just possible you are flooding it somehow, suggested by the times it takes longer to start - make sure you follow the manual's instructions to start it (don't press the gas pedal when doing so). It is also possible the engine is fuel-starved at those times - you can have the dealer check the fuel pump for consistent output PSI at the appropriate spec.
Lastly, it is possible that you have a computer fault, like a sensor doing something bad. I assume you have had them plug in to check if there are any codes stored?
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I actually don't step on the gas pedal when starting the car--I just turn the ignition key on, and, nowadays, hope the engine starts.
Regarding the possible computer fault, they've already plugged in to check and they found nothing.
Thanks
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Thanks
Mike
Isn't it tough to have a fairly new car to sell with a salvaged title? My understanding is that most finance companies won't offer loans on a salvage? Which would limit the number of potential buyers quite a bit, wouldn't it?
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Mike
The base RSX has a lot in common with the Civic SI, so Honda dealers will actually stock most of the maintenance parts, and do have access to part numbers and the like for things they need to order on an Acura.
So, I'm curious - don't say if you don't want to, by all means - what price you might ask for this car when you sell it, given that you are into it for about $6500.
Obviously one without the salvage history would sell for mid-teens pretty easy.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Well, if I start at $6500, I will have to have it painted (maybe all over), and the interior has been stripped out for state inspectors, so I have to reassemble that. The interior is all there, just loose in car. Then there always seems to be a few little things you don't count on. Let's say I have $7200 plus my labor on interior. My rule of thumb is I always try to get it finished and on the road for 50-60% of NADA retail. Then I try to sell for 75% max. The lower it is, the quicker I sell it. If I make $1000-1500 on a car, I am satisfied because I love doing it. So maybe $8500-10000. How does that sound?
Mike
I was referring to mostly mechanical stuff, that is in common with the Civic SI, including most engine parts. The transmission is different from the SI's, that is true. Common maintenance parts are shared by both though, in many cases, at least according to my sister's Honda dealer. I haven't done the checking myself, so I can't say for sure.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
im also have crunching problems as mentioned a couple post before when going from 1st to 2nd.
The reason for this posting is twofold:
1. Is there anything I should specifically ask the dealer to inspect, replace, etc. while the 3 year warranty is still in force?
2. There's a really good private mechanic here in town, that basically works on just Hondas - they're his specialty. I used him with my Civic and was very happy. Do people think he's up to maintaining, and if necessary, repairing a Type-S? Any thoughts, experience using private mechanics on your own Type S much appreciated!!
Thanks,
Mike
When I picked up my car, the only "damage" I noticed was the 1/4" inch of pollen and dust on my car. LOL When I pulled out of his condo development and went on the highway, I noticed a very slight shake at > 60 MPH, but that seemed to disappear by the 2nd time I drove my car on the highway (the next day).
BTW, my car recently turned 3 and I now have 30 kmi. on it. Everything seems to be working well (knock on wood). But I'm due for the 30 kmi. check. Acura wants to charge me $300 + tax for what amounts to an oil change, tire rotation, brake pad inspection and fluid replacement, and air cleaner replacement, and check/adjust various fluid levels. That seems awfully expensive. I made an appointment with Firestone to get their estimate. If they're charging less than half of what Acura wants to, I think I'll go with Firestone. What do you guys think?
I plan to visit Firestone sometime this week to get an estimate and will report back here.
1.) Wouldn't your Acura dealer charge you $ if you want them to perform an inspection? How many miles (or km) do you have on it? If it's been a while since your last major inspection, you might want to have one done.
2.) Ask your local mechanic if he has any experience working on Acuras, and specifically, RSXs. I've read that many people who are familiar with Hondas can work on Acuras without much difficulty, esp, the Civic and RSX.
Good luck!
Maybe I got a bad edition.
It's a fight every time I go in there, to just get the things done that are in the book. And if my car weren't under warranty, I am sure I would never darken their doorstep. I feel for dealers - cars' maintenance needs in general have decreased to almost nil in the last decade. But that doesn't mean they should try and jack up my servicing costs with bogus stuff.
I figure at 30K I will pay them to do the oil change/tire rotation ($65), change the air filters (underhood and cabin) myself, and be done with it. I am going to let them do a "minor service" next month though, for the 20K interval. That will be $135, and won't include much more than the oil and tires and the inspections.
After reading the book and comparing it to the list of what my dealer does for a "major maintenance", I have concluded that my car will never require such a service. :-/
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Going somewhere else may void the warranty. I know it's not a big deal to do your oil yourself (keep receipts), but all of the other things may need to be done by an Acura dealer to keep the warranty applicable.
nitromax, if an owner chooses to do the work himself, are you saying that he might endanger his car's warranty to be voided? What if he kept the receipts of the oil cans and air filter that he bought but just performed the labor himself? I consider going to a non-Acura mechanic in the same manner, so I don't see why/how the warranty could be voided. :confuse: I hope Acura doesn't expect us to be locked into their super-expensive service for all "major" services.
Hold onto the receipts for proof. They may or may not void the warranty, but if you have the receipts , then you should be fine. I just put the receipts right into the manual binder...even record the mileage on the receipt.
I meant for the other services that they'll be doing for your car. (rotating tires, checking fluids, lube points) those may be tougher to prove that they were done by you if there was an isssue...I repeat,IF there was an issue.
I only bring mine in for the major checkpoints now. 50,000, 75,000.....I'm approaching 60,000 and I need to check to see what the schedule calls for. I use a K&N air filter and change my oil myself.....all the rest is just regular maintenance in my eyes, but I don't know how Acura would view it if there was a major problem.
Say for instance your steering locked up while going around a corner and you hit a tree. Your service records show that you never took it in for it's scheduled lube maintenance but instead opted to do it yourself. They may try to pin it on you for being at fault because there's no way to tell if you did it the proper way.
Thank goodness the cost and hassle of car maintenance decreases with every decade that goes by!
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I will do another oil change at 35 kmi. and assuming I keep my miles down, I plan to do a whole lot at 40 kmi., as I approach 4 years (i.e. warranty expires). This includes new suspension, tires, and wheels. I'd also like to get an afternarket headunit (that plays MP3s!!). I know I'm getting ahead of myself, though.
I only WISH I had ever had a car where the warranty expired due to years rather than miles. Actually, my current car is the closest I have ever gotten, as my commute has decreased to almost nothing. I am at 16 months and 21K miles, so it will probably take me more than three years to run out the mileage limit on the warranty.
The first time I ever spend serious money on a routine service will be at 49,900 miles! :-)
I will get everything checked just before the warranty gives out.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Does it keep doing it throughout the day during start ups or only on the initial morning start up?
Remember that the belt is made of rubber and will warm up and soften after running for a little while. If you start your car up first thing in the morning and immediately take off down the street, the belt will most likely slip some due to it being cold and hard still.
Mine has never squealed but I let the engine warm up for 30 seconds or so without revving the engine much...bad for internals...let the oil spread around first.
Approaching 4 years and 60,000 miles
Personally, I change it every 5000 miles, and that is only because I commute in it, and I have a short commute. If I had a longer commute without a lot of stop and go, I might go to 7500-mile intervals. I discarded 3000-mile intervals 15 years ago, and have never had a problem.
And then, of course, there is a lot of truth in the old adage that frequent oil changing is the cheapest insurance you can take out on your engine. Me, I don't like the thought of recycling all that oil before it is really necessary.
njpunk: just for reference, my car is as old as yours and has the same miles, and I never get squealing at any startup, cold or otherwise. If you do any under-the-hood stuff yourself, make sure you are not spilling anything on the drive belt. Beyond that, it could be a belt tensioner going bad early, in addition to the obvious likelihood that there is a problem with a loose or worn belt. I would leave it with them overnight and ask them to drive it around in the morning when it is stone cold. They can better diagnose it that way.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Any more feedback is welcome!
Thanks Nitro and Nippononly!
I can't decide if its the whole seat rocking back and forth, or just the back rocking free of the base slightly.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
If the gas cap isn't properly tightened, tighten it until you hear several clicks, then run around in the car for a few days. The light will go off by itself if that was all it was, but it takes a few cycles of starting and stopping the engine.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Has anyone heard of this happening? I had it fixed, but feel like I might have gotten a fast one pulled on me and am a little annoyed by it all.
Also, since having the new compressor put in, I'm hearing an intermittent squealing sound every time I drive. On top of that, during a recent road trip, the vents started spewing out water vapor! (It looked like what you would see coming out of a humidifier.)
I'm planning on calling my dealership about all this, but wanted to go in with some knowledge about the problem.
The Honda Odyssey is having the same problems.
Sounds like the Honda/Acura engineers should get outside in the real world more and stop spending so much time behind the computer screen.
A fix for this is mounting a screen in your lower grill to keep the rocks out. I have done this using some aluminum gutter guard purchased at Lowes/Home Depot.
There is also an aftermarket device that can be mounted in the same place, but it costs quite a bit more than the gutter guard that I used.
As far as the squealing and water problem goes...definately take it in to have it looked at. But no, they probably weren't taking you for a ride.
good luck