Honda Odyssey: Problems & Solutions:(1995-2004 Models)

1…4243454748…126

Comments

  • kkenyonkkenyon Member Posts: 1
    I've read many posts referencing the sliding door problems. However, I still need some input and help. Two days ago the door stopped working. I mean no power, no noises (beeping, actuator noises when the handle is pulled, etc.),totally void of electrical power.

    The system uses to my knowledge three(3) fuses. Under the motor hood a 30A, and two (2) 20A fuses for each door. All are good.

    Yes, the vechicle is under warranty. However, I'd like to save the trip as its far and very time consumming.

    Can some expert out there please explain how to sync the doors, reset the computer etc. (I've already tried the owners manual reset procedure. Please help. I've heard of a long process to sync the doors. Can someone post it??

    Thanks,

    Kurt Kenyon
  • ajmacyajmacy Member Posts: 6
    I know this is a long shot but...one of our doors (99 EX) stopped operating and no one seemed to be able to figure out why. The service technicians finally discovered that the connection from the door to the battery had corroded and no power was getting to the door. After cleaning the connection, the door worked fine. Hope this helps!
  • scruplekscruplek Member Posts: 33
    I wish it were under warranty. My van has close to 82,500 miles on it. I have rubbed a rag over the junction switches but not erasers. Guess I will give that a try. It pulls closed, but never engages that "sucking in" motion that pulls it tight. Then the alarm sound goes off saying door is ajar. Hey auburn, what about this: On the driver side door, occasionally when I hit the unlock button on either the remote entry or driver side door, the driver side sliding door will not unlock. You just hear this spinning noise. I have to reach inside and slide the lock lever manually. I have noticed this especially after gassing up, since the door locks automatically. Even if I hit the unlock button twice, it sometimes still will not unlock. Just makes this quick whirring sound. Then when you hit to open it you get the "beep beep beep " error sound. Other times I will just be coming out of the grocery store or something and hit the unlock button on the remote entry and the driver side sliding door just wil not unlock and open. Any tips?
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    open your fuel door and look at the pad that contacts the push switch. This pad should be fat and round, if not goto the dealer and get one. If it is then you may need to adjust it so that it pushes on that switch inside the fuel door. That switch tells the door control unit when the fuel door is open and locks the door to prevent damage.
  • ehrehr Member Posts: 1
    Sometimes the manual sliding doors will open 1/4 inch and then be stuck there. Pushing in will not reclose the doors and all the pulling in the world will not open then. By waitng some time then then seem to unstick and can be pushed closed and then reopened.

    This happens about 25% of the time we try to open the sliding doors.

    Any ideas what causes this problem and what can fix it. A mechanic at my dealership said it is a design flaw and I will just have to live with it.
  • ecatecat Member Posts: 11
    I really struggled in deciding on the EX model primarily because of those sliding doors. You just knew at some point those things were going to be trouble, but I wanted traction control and the climate controlled air conditioning.

    If I had to do it over again, I question whether I would have spent the extra for the EX now.

    My driver side door will not close completely, and we are now in the habit of finishing the job by slamming up against it right as it is closing. Also, unfortunately, we've already had one incident of the door closing on my child fingers due to my wife having the key fob in her pocket and leaning up against something (thereby having the door close button depressed).

    I hate those doors and for all the oooh-aaaah nicecities they provide, I'd just as soon have doors that I can effortlessly shut and close manually.
  • dchoppdchopp Member Posts: 256
    Manual doors are just as bad.On the manuals the dealers replaced door gaskets. Are you lubricating the doors and there seals?
  • dchoppdchopp Member Posts: 256
    That is a crock of crap. Find a dealer that knows what they are doing. Door problems are fixable.
  • scruplekscruplek Member Posts: 33
    Auburn,
    I tried the eraser on the the sliding door. It closed a little better, but it still won't do that last grabbing motion to completely pull it in. Is there a way to adjust the thing. I cannot imagine how much it is gonna cost if I take it in. I live on a lime rock road and everything is quite dirty. The latch seems like it is just not grabbing. Any future suggestions, or am I gonna have to bite the bullet and take it in.
  • slockoslocko Member Posts: 111
    I owned the 2000 for 24k miles and no problems with the doors.

    I then traded it in for a 2002 so far 9k miles, no problems with the doors.

    I have 3 littles, 4,3, and 2. Doors once closed on the eldest hand, but no harm done.

    Much rather have a motor closing the door on a hand than someone slamming shut the door with human strength and crushing my little boy's hand.

    The convenience of electric doors is great.
  • bjk2001bjk2001 Member Posts: 358
    slocko:

    I agree with you. I saw my friend's youngest boy finger got caught by his Sienna manual sliding door. We were standing right there talking when his daughter slammed the door there was nothing we could do to stop the door from closing.

    bjk
  • gerichogericho Member Posts: 11
    Our 99EX with 42K needed door repair today for exactly the problem you describe where the door closes but lacks the final latching motion. Dealer replaced the "power latch" at a cost of $224 (part $136 and labor $88) to fix the problem.
  • scruplekscruplek Member Posts: 33
    Well, I have an appointment Monday to see what is ailing it. $250 bucks, hey. Figured it would be around that. I was hoping it would just need an adjustment. Man, what a bummer. Thanks for the heads up.
    Scruple k
  • 02ramman02ramman Member Posts: 62
    Try using contact cleaner on the contacts. Pencil erasure works good if you got a lot of junk on the contacts but a good contact cleaner will clean the invisible film left over. Make sure to get the ones on the door and the ones on the B pillar. Mine(2000 EX)had the same whirring noise and the electric locks would not move. Sprayed some contact cleaner on it and it is now fixed. Hopefully this will save you $250.
  • dkrabdkrab Member Posts: 77
    For those of you with sticking doors on the LX: When they stick, don't pull on the handle to try to free them. Rather, pull at the top rear corner of the door. They should pop loose. The problem is with the upper weatherstripping, which acts as a rain gutter. The temporary fix is to use Shin-Etsu grease on the backside top edge of the door where the rubber comes into contact with it. It's not necessary to grease the rubber itself. Keep it greased regularly, like once every few months. Although Honda replaced the seal on mine, it still sticks.

    On the pull to the right: thanks for the suggestions about the wheels and all, but all the easy stuff has already been eliminated. Besides, wheels cannot make it pull. Tires, yes; wheels, no. Wheels can make it vibrate, but that is not the problem. Honda is still insisting this pull is normal, but there is no way I can accept that. They did agree to let me bring it to a different dealer for another attempted fix (5th try!), but if I get the same nonsense about it being normal, I will file a Lemon Law Complaint. I will have no trouble winning. I am extremely confident. I described the problem to a local very reputable repair shop in my area and they confirmed that the pull is not normal and should not be accepted, and they said I would have little trouble winning a lawsuit. I will bring it back to them next week if necessary for them to formally document this on paper in a manner that can be used in court.

    What a shame I am having so much trouble getting a reputable company like Honda to honor their warranty. I guess I need to investigate a breach of contract lawsuit, too. Oh, well. You gotta fight for what's right sometimes. It sure would be easier to just trade the van in, but that would not really help anyone else.
  • dchoppdchopp Member Posts: 256
    Hey all you 100 thousand plus Oddy owners out there that have vehicles that do do not pull and drive straight, its time to take them back to the dealer and have them fixed. If Honda Claims that a pull to the right is normal than my 02 EX is not normal.
  • dkrabdkrab Member Posts: 77
    Honda service manager claimed that I cannot compare my 2002 Ody to 2001 or older because the 2002 has more power and is different. That amazing ascertation notwithstanding, I took it upon myself to drive several other 2002 Ody's. Not one pulled like mine. So, I simply want mine to drive the same as all those others I drove. I still can't understand why they don't get that. Also, their telling me that it is normal for the Ody to pull right under any acceleration is the same as them telling me that their engineering is inferior to the competitions! Another astounding statement!

    To be fair, in addition to a constant pull to the right I did describe to them classic torque steer, and it is this torque steer that they declare to be normal. But I have owned nothing but front wheel drive cars since 1981, and none of them had this much torque steer (upon brisk acceleration from a stop, NOT flooring it, the steering wheel will turn right as much as 30-40 degees, unless you hang on to it and turn it left to go straight). And, none of the several other 2002 Odys I drove had it, either. And the constant pull to the right I am experiencing was passed off by one service manager as a safety feature! He said they are designed that way to prevent your vehicle from wandering into oncoming traffic. Well then, I have purchased 3 Accords brand new, and not one of them pulled to the right. They now want me to believe those vehicles were defective. Another amazing fact is that they never once allowed me to demonstrate the problem to a service manager or field engineer, even though I requested the opportunity to do so. They did tell me on the phone that they would arrange a face-to-face meeting with a Honda rep, but then called back and said there was nothing more they could do based upon their field engineer and service manager information. They essentially reniged on their offer to meet face-to-face. I arranged on my own to bring the van into another dealership tomorrow (Monday), and if I don't get to demonstrate the problem, or if he dismisses it as normal, that's it; we go to court.

    I took the opportunity to bring the van to a reputable third party, and was immediately told the pull was not normal and that I should file a Lemon Law claim if Honda does not fix it. Maybe Auburn or someone very familiar with this problem has seen it resolved. Anybody? I would really rather fix it than replace it simply because I will get hit with a stiff price for "use of the vehicle."
  • gpavlovgpavlov Member Posts: 1
    The problem with sliding doors and little kids is not the sliding doors but the adults who are "standing right there talking" while the little kids are getting in or out.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    I havent had any problems as of yet but from past experiance my first thought is always tires. Pressure differance and internal defects are common. Has anyone tried to switch the front tires side to side and see if the pull/drift changes direction. Also if alignment, tire pressure and tires are all good as a last resort try an extra pound or two of air in the tire on the side of the pull and see if that helps. Sometimes that all it takes to make up for an unchangable fault in a car.
    As for the torque steer, it can and does still happen on alot of front wheel drive cars and vans. However it shouldnt take much effort to hold it back.. Good luck
  • bjk2001bjk2001 Member Posts: 358
    gaplov:
    The problem is some people has no idea what the situation is and open his/her big mouth and said something and assume it was smart.
    Post was talking about when ACCIDENT happened and power door has less damage to human body. The only stop on the manual sliding door is door frame, power door on the contrary has sensors if there is any foreign object blocking the sensor door will stop. Also power door is closing in a slow fixed speed not like manual sliding door depends on how hard a human slams the door.
    Parents and 3 kids (2 girls and 1 boy) were ready to get on their minivan both manual sliding door were open. They have been doing this for last few years, same family same minivan with manual sliding door no one ever got his/her finger jammed on a closing door. His little boy wanted to get on first, so 1 of the girls went to the other side and got on. Since manual sliding door was too heavy for a little boy to close it. (If they had a power door, he could just pull the handle or push the button). His sister wanted to help him to close the door. His sister had been helping her sibling for years to close the door for him and never had any problem. We were "standing there talking" about a good virtue of sister helping younger sibling. But somehow that day, instead of sliding it slowly she decided to slam it as hard as possible. Unfortunately his little boy still has his finger on the door frame. Door was slammed soo fast, before anyone can react to it. It takes time for people to react to an unexpected event. Sometime human reaction time is not faster enough to stop the unexpected event. That's why we call it ACCIDENT.
    I saw my friend little boy with some scratch on his right cheek bone today. His dad told me it happened at school. His little boy ran, tripped, fell and scratched his face. Just another accident happened at school. Shall his parent sue school due to lack of teacher's supervision? Shall we just tie all the school kids together with their teacher or shall we have one teacher followed each school kid and hold their hands make sure they will not run or do anything they may get hurt? How about we band all the sports and make sure no kids will get hurt?
    There is a risk to do anything. Well these are the common sense not sure you will understand.
  • dkrabdkrab Member Posts: 77
    First, thank you auburn for the reply. Yes, we switched the tires left to right and it did not change a thing. The pull is too bad to be affected by manipulating the tire pressures slightly, and besides, I would much rather get at the root of the problem than cover it over by using the tire pressure trick. If it were an old car, maybe, but not on a new one. FWIW, Honda sent a Field Engineer out to look at my car. He did work on it for 2 days. He claims to have driven one other 2002 and found it to be the same as mine, so therefore has decided it is normal. Of course, after comparing it myself to many other 2002 Ody's, I beg to differ! And why did he spend two days on it if it was normal?

    To all who have complained of a rumble/roar/transmission noise in top gear at 50-55 mph, I would like to share with you what the Honda Field Engineer did to minimize the noise on my van. He did something to isolate the shift lever cable and replaced the standard dynamic dampner with one off of a V6 Accord. The dynamic dampner is that odd block bolted to the topside of the front crossmember just next to the front motor mount that looks like it doesn't do anything. It did not get rid of the noise completely, but made it so that it is not at all objectionable anymore. And contrary to some complaints, the noise does not originate in the transmission.

    Hope this is helpful!
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    Do you know what the alignment results were on your van? Did they put it on a rack? If you know them maybe you could post them. That would help determine if it is the van or in the tires.
    Good luck
  • dkrabdkrab Member Posts: 77
    Before the Field Engineer messed with it:

    Front wheels (first number left wheel, second is right):
    Camber 0.2 degree 0.2
    Caster 2.1 degree 2.5
    Toe -0.10" -0.03"

    Cross Camber 0.1 degree
    Cross Caster -0.4 degree
    Total Toe -0.14"
    Set Back .03 degree

    Back wheels, left then right:
    Camber -0.6 0.2
    Toe -0.03 -0.05
    Total Toe -0.08
    Thrust Angle .01

    After adjustments:

    Front wheels, left then right:
    Camber 0.1 degree -0.1
    Caster 2.1 degree 2.5
    Toe 0.02" 0.01"

    Cross Camber 0.3 degree
    Cross Caster -0.4 degree
    Total Toe .04"
    Set Back .07 degree

    Back wheels, left then right:
    Camber -0.6 0.2
    Toe 0.02 0.01
    Total Toe 0.03
    Thrust Angle .01

    There were some noteable changes made here, but it didn't make a noticable difference in how the van drives.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    The differance is minimal and really should not cause anything to happen. However with those camber and caster specs if anything the van should pull /drift to the left. If the direction is to the right then I think I would start looking into the tires. If left and right swapping has been done then possibly try front to back or maybe even try and get them to do a complete 4 tire swap from another van.If rotation doesn’t solve the drift, try reversing a tire on its rim (as long as both its sidewalls
    are the same).Reversing a tire may get two tires
    with the same directional force to cancel each
    other and eliminate the drift. In extreme cases,
    you may need to replace a tire.
    The only other thing I can think of at this time is if all else fails they could bring the toe adjustments to their max setting.Setting front and rear toe to the maximum toe-in specs tends to decrease a vehicle’s sensitivity to drift, especially on rear wheels.
    Good luck
  • phil47phil47 Member Posts: 394
    Just lately, my 2001 EX has had this intermittent bang sound occur during hard cornering (left turns) or hard acceleration. It almost sounds like it's coming from the rear suspension and it sounds like a tight spring releasing against the body. Very weird and very loud. Nothing looks unusual under the van, and it drives and feels completely normal. There's a service bulletin out regarding a similar noise from the FRONT suspension (requires retorquing a lower control arm bolt), but this really does sound like it's coming from the rear. Any ideas??

    Thanks.
  • amykenkrisamykenkris Member Posts: 1
    JUST A FEW OF THE PROBLEMS THAT I HAVE HAD WITH THE TOP OF THE LINE HONDA.

    A/C WAS NOT WORKING FROM DAY ONE. DEALER FIXED CRACKED HOSE. TOOK TWO DAYS.

    CAR PULLS TO LEFT. ALIGNED TWICE

    GAS TANK STAYS ON FULL FOR 150 MILES THEN LOW LEVEL LIGHT COMES ON AT 1 GALLON LEFT. NEEDED NEW SENDING UNIT. AFTER FIXING SENDING UNIT DEALER LEFT GAS CAP LOOSE AND THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND STAYED ON. "DEALER CAME TO THE HOUSE AND FIXED IT"

    WINDSHIELD WASHER HOSE WAS MISS ROUTED AND WORE THRU ON PULLY. THEN DEALER ALSO MISS ROUTED.

    BAD SQUEAK ON RIGHT FRONT FROM BUMP STOP. THEN LEFT SIDE. DEALER GREASED BOTH SIDES
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Looks like your lower case is broken too :-)

    Have all these problems been fixed now?

    Steve
    Host
    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • dchoppdchopp Member Posts: 256
    SOUNDS LIKE THAT BABY WAS BUILT DOWN SOUTH.
    I have an 02 that was built in Canada and it has
    been trouble free.
  • kruebbekruebbe Member Posts: 4
    I'm buying my first Honda odyssey this November. I've heard good and bad about the van and I'm scared. Can somone tell me where in the VIN # of a vehicle can you tell where it's been built. I do believe there are lemons out there in all nakes and models. I'd like to get one that has been put together correctly.

    Thanks for your help.
  • dchoppdchopp Member Posts: 256
    I think all the 2003 will be built down south. Someone mentioned that the Canadian Plant will build the Pilot.
  • scruplekscruplek Member Posts: 33
    Well, the day before I took my 99 EX in for repairs the door completely stopped working: wouldn't shut all the way and I could not open it or close manually. Nothing. Nada. Took it in....Said it was the closure motor and they also had to adjust the junction switches. 280 bucks. Yikes. Well, hope the other door doesn't go out too. Thanks for all your tips and suggestions.
    Scruple K
  • uzi1uzi1 Member Posts: 2
    Hi guys. I just bought a new 2002 and the problem I realised is that as soon as the car reaches 40 mph it i there is strong whistling noise in the car as if there is wind storm outside. It seems as if the body of the car is not sealed properly and there is air coming inside from spmewhere, We have sealed everyuthing that can be sealed but this noise is so loud it is as if we are sitting in a truck or a mini jet! Can someone please tell me what is the noise level supposed to be in an Odyssey. It cant be this! We cant get intouch with the dealer because of the holiday, will do so on Tuesday. Just thought id tap into your valuble resource to get an idea of what it should be like when we speak to him. What could the problem be anyone know?? I am so disappointed I am afraid the fault may be irrepairable!!
  • jrdowneyjrdowney Member Posts: 96
    Hello everyone,
    I've largely been away from this board recently as other things in life have received higher priority. I hope my two issues haven't been addressed recently but if so sorry for bringing them up again.

    1. Rear lift gate no longer stays up. First the right strut/lifter failed. Noticed a notch in the metal tube that goes inside the strut and could hear air leaking. It finally failed. Can't tell about the left one but Honda is going to replace both. Anyone else have this happen?

    2. There is an intermittent high-pitched noise in the climate control system. Sounds a bit like a motor buzzing and lasts around .5 seconds. Noise is somewhat random as far as timing but certainly happening more frequently in recent weeks. If I turn off the climate control noise stops. Not consistent enough to bother the dealer with it but I was wondering if anyone has heard the same thing.

    2001 EX

    Thanks,

    Jim d.
  • kalajiankalajian Member Posts: 43
    Do you have the roof rack cross bars installed? If you do, they might be installed backwards which will cause the wind sound you are describing. If not, take it back to the dealer-it should not do this.
  • dchoppdchopp Member Posts: 256
    Go back and check some of the archives. I have seen this come up quite often. I have not noticed this on my 02 of course I have the volume on the CD player tuned up a few notches. If you have crossbars on the roof rack, they could be installed wrong.
  • glasschimeglasschime Member Posts: 13
    Here's some info I picked up about VIN no's and carbuying. Very helpful.


    http://www.carbuyingtips.com

    free consumer advocate site. Dealer scams, negotiating tips, dealer cost, buying & selling used cars, info on financing, leases.


    Here is a sample VIN.

    1 G8 ZH859 X Y N 190510

    1 Country in which vehicle was built, see below G8 Code for the manufacturer ZH859 Codes for brand, body style, engine size and type

    X Security code used to verify VIN by police

    Y Model year, see below

    N Code for assembly plant

    190510 Serial number, numbering practices determined by manufacturer


                                                           1, 4, 5 - USA

                                                           2 - Canada

                                                           3- Mexico, Puerto Rico, Costa Rica

                                                           6 - Australia

                                                           9 - Brazil

                                                           J - Japan

                                                           K - South Korea

                                                           L - Taiwan

                                                           S - United Kingdom

                                                           V - France, Yugoslavia

                                                           W - Germany

                                                           Y - Sweden

                                                           Z - Italy A - 1980

                                                           B - 1981

                                                           C - 1982

                             &amp
    Here's some info I picked up about VIN no's and carbuying. Very helpful.


    http://www.carbuyingtips.com

    free consumer advocate site. Dealer scams, negotiating tips, dealer cost, buying & selling used cars, info on financing, leases.


    Here is a sample VIN.

    1 G8 ZH859 X Y N 190510

    1 Country in which vehicle was built, see below G8 Code for the manufacturer ZH859 Codes for brand, body style, engine size and type

    X Security code used to verify VIN by police

    Y Model year, see below

    N Code for assembly plant

    190510 Serial number, numbering practices determined by manufacturer


                                                           1, 4, 5 - USA

                             &a;nbsp;                             D - 1983

                                                           E - 1984

                                                           F - 1985

                                                           G - 1986

                                                           H - 1987

                                                           J - 1988

                                                           K - 1989

                                                           L - 1990

                                                           M - 1991 N - 1992

                                                           P - 1993

                                                           R - 1994

                                                           S - 1995

                                                           T - 1996

                                                           V - 1997

                                     &
    Here's some info I picked up about VIN no's and carbuying. Very helpful.


    http://www.carbuyingtips.com

    free consumer advocate site. Dealer scams, negotiating tips, dealer cost, buying & selling used cars, info on financing, leases.


    Here is a sample VIN.

    1 G8 ZH859 X Y N 190510

    1 Country in which vehicle was built, see below G8 Code for the manufacturer ZH859 Codes for brand, body style, engine size and type

    X Security code used to verify VIN by police

    Y Model year, see below

    N Code for assembly plant

    190510 Serial number, numbering practices determined by manufacturer


                                                           1, 4, 5 - USA

                             &aamp;nbsp;                     W - 1998

                                                           X - 1999

                                                           Y - 2000

                                                           1 - 2001

                                                           2 - 2002

  • uzi1uzi1 Member Posts: 2
    Thankyou so much for your respose. Yes actually the cross bars are installed on the car. That is great to hear that this could be a solution, MAybe Ill be able to sleep better tonight
  • branch15_5branch15_5 Member Posts: 44
    Phil47 or others -- Do you have any additional info on the lower control arm TSB? I'm getting a suspension noise (front, I believe) that, for lack of a better term, just sounds like something heavy is loose. I get it when driving on rough roads, but generally not when I go over bumps.

    Is this fix something I could do, or is it a dealer fix?

    Thanks!
  • ohloneohlone Member Posts: 55
    or you could just look inside the door where it gives the location of where the car was built.

    Mine was built by bubba in Alabama - everthing works great so far (knock on wood)
  • dchoppdchopp Member Posts: 256
    I thought Bubba worked at the Canadian Plant.Maybe there are two Bubba's
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    It is a 17mm or a 19mm bolt and needs to be torqued to 90ft lbs. The front lower control arm bolt in the subframe.
  • dorene2dorene2 Member Posts: 28
    Has anyone had any problems removing their spare tire or returning its parts back into the hole?? Some "competitive" sales people have mentioned this as quite a draw back for the Odyssey.....
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I don't recall ever seeing a post on Town Hall from anyone with problems removing the spare. If you had 20 sheets of 4x8 plywood in the back and had a flat, maybe you'd grumble about getting to it ....

    Steve
    Host
    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • grandtotalgrandtotal Member Posts: 1,207
    It's not the easiest thing in the world to get out, first time. Do it in your driveway once you have bought the van, then if you ever need to do it for real it won't be a problem. Boy, are they ever scraping the barrel if that's all they can find wrong with the Odyssey. There are plenty of other little things wrong with it, but would I buy anything else? No, I don't think so.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Interesting -- that's actually good advice for any new car too. Take it from someone who averages one flat a year :-)

    Steve
    Host
    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • dorene2dorene2 Member Posts: 28
    I find all of this interesting since they specifically state that you have to remove both second row seats in order to remove the spare! They also said it is IMPOSSIBLE to place the items back into the hole. I figure sales people don't show you that because it can be difficult????Great advice, though, about trying it at home when you first get it!! Never thought about that! It must be the "dumb blonde" in me!
  • robr2robr2 Member Posts: 8,805
    I've had my spare out just for practice. You do not need to remove the 2nd row. I did find that if the front seats are moved as far forward as possible that provides more room to work. You flip up the cover, hook the handy rope onto one of the grab bars on the front seat and remove the spare.

    The full size flat will not fit in the well and as such Honda has devised a method for mounting it in the rear well and provides a plastic bag for wrapping it in.

    Some of the competing models require you to climb under the van to reach the spare - I've done that in the snow and it's not fun. Is the Ody solution perfect - no but which one is?

    Side note - I did see someone changing the tire on an MPV recently. They did have the 2 center seats out on the curb. Anyone know if that is the procedure?
  • grandtotalgrandtotal Member Posts: 1,207
    Perhaps the best way for you to establish the truth is to visit your local showroom again and have the sales rep demonstrate it for you. Hmm, on second thoughts you could read about it here in the Honda Odyssey Owner's Manual around page 339. The manual is quite large so if you have not got a fast internet connection (or even if you have) you may like to download it to your PC.
  • petertpetert Member Posts: 23
    My 2000 EX has noise from the transmission since
    its delivery while driving at around 50 MPH.

    After I read post #2116, etc. I mentioned this
    to a service advisor at one regular maintainence.
    They found this is a problem and placed a
    "back order" on a remanufactured transmission.
    Like someone sadi there are so many back orders
    with the transmission, Honda must have its own
    design or manufacture fault with the transmission.

    My question is, how can the customers like me to push Honda issue a recall on this kind of transmission or get a new transmission, or get the back orders go fast.

    As this noise is very hard to notice or distinguish from the road noise, I believe there
    should be more Odyssey having this problem.

    I'm thinking to file a complaint against it to
    National Highway Traffic Safety Administration.
    Since some times the rpm jumpping up and down
    in this situiation. That's dangous on highway
    when driving at 50 MPH.

    Thanks for any suggestion.
    Thanks the people who
    posted the transmission problems on this board.
    Thanks the HOST, thanks all.
  • khoviuskhovius Member Posts: 3
    Hello everyone,

    I need a little help with how to change the light bulb in the clock. I remember a post on how to do this about 1000 posts ago.

    Thanks

    2001 DEG LX - no other problems
This discussion has been closed.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles

Your Privacy

By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our Visitor Agreement.