By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
The day the doors malfunctioned after repair attempt #3, I called the service manager to log a complaint. He suggested I return, although I was ambivalent about spending any more time in their waiting area.
So, I sent a letter to the regional Honda office, cc'ed it to dealer. Call back from dealer, apologetic and said they will take my van, drive for a few days, see if they can reproduce the problem.
We shall see what happens. I do not think I have a choice but to do this. It is clearly not getting fixed otherwise, and we cannot continue with this hasslesome problem.
Any thoughts on this from the crowd??
You seem to be in the know. Do you work for Honda?
Seems like these are all small matters which are causing big headaches. NOT what Honda is all about. Shall see what happens long term.
Taking it in this Friday to get this fixed along with the dash light recall. Will report back results.
Also, someone earlier asked if this new software allowed us to search for keywords, but I never saw an answer to that question. I just tried using the "Board Search" box on the left side of the screen - I entered the word "door" and hit "GO". The response was "no matching items were found". I know that several posts contained the word "door", both in the title and the body, so what does this "Board Search" do?
Thanks.
FYI, if you see a particular message that you like, hit the "mark" button beside that message and you will be able to access it quickly in the future by going to your message centre.
Hope this helps!
Drew
Host
Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
I also note that in my lynx browser, I can no longer load all the messages in a group as I used to be able to do. That allowed me to use a browser search to find a word. With all the upgrades(?) to these forums, an intelligent search would be great. There is a lot of excellent information in these archives. Being able to search all forums with "Odyssey" in the title for a group of words would be a tremendous resource. Usenet allows this, but there aren't nearly as many Odyssey-specific posts as on Edmunds.
I like your cautious approach to having fuel in your tank than no fuel at all. Better safe than sorry, is very right. You would have read my earlier post – no vehicle tracks gas volume by temperature. Also, for temperature not to play a role in liquid volume, all vehicles have a leak-proof pressurised gas cap and the ’01 Ody also has a fuel vapour recovery system, mostly for vehicles driven in hot climates. My previous notes also explain the fuel level light.
Take care and happy driving.
A CEL/MIL indicates some malfunction, temporary or permanent, has appeared, a DTC has been stored in the CPU, and should be attended to. Note that most of the individual systems have their own computers, like the PCM and ABS/TCS, but there are separate processing units as well. They talk to one another, so a proper diagnostic is a must.
There is some question as to what really is this (gas cap tightness) mentioned in the manual and how this came about. Who determined it was three trips to reset it. What is meant by (three trips)? Why not one trip. Trip, meaning, take off the gas cap and put it back again three or more times. In my opinion, we are not looking at much authenticity to the statement. Most vehicles on the road today have the same system, and the lock mechanism is only to make sure that the cap seals. I have seen and used such ratchet locking mechanisms in various applications.
On the clicking issue, I did not try it on the ’99. However, I tried it three times on my ’01 over Christmas and the New Year. Opened gas cap, filled a few litres of fuel (if there was any relevance to actually putting in fuel) and closed the cap separately with one, two and three clicks and then driven. I normally click it five to six times. Nothing has ever malfunctioned and no CEL came on. My tech and dealership advisor say that they have not mentioned such a cure to anyone. (Unless, of course, every Canadian driver is always closing the cap with three clicks or more – something not possible.)
The only time the ’99 CEL came on was when I was testing the clutch pressure control solenoids. I powered up the system with them disconnected to verify signal frequency. I had the dealer erase the DTC from the EEPROM (non-volatile memory) and witnessed a procedure that took approximately four minutes containing some relevant sequences.
If the DTC is self-healing, the CEL light will go out and not appear again. If it is still on, please go to your dealer and have him do a full diagnostic. I believe most dealerships are willing to have you present when this is done. Request them so and see if you can be present through the whole procedure. Also, note the DTC number or numbers, post it on this forum, and I will try to help further. We need to sometimes relate DTCs with other problems, if present.
Take care and drive safe.
First, as I explained in an earlier posting, your PCM is reporting a malfunction that is serious. Take note that DTCs stored due to ABS malfunction are different from DTCs stored due to TCS malfunction. Also, the TCS light coming on can be the result of a problem or perceived malfunction in just about any of the emission or engine control sensors. Gets very complicated.
That said, the ABS/TCS diagnostic procedure is about four times as long and painstaking as the sliding doors diagnostic. I get the impression your dealer does not want to spend the time/his money/warranty fixing it. Or he might just not have the expertise to do it. Are you trying to tell me that a dealer service department cannot figure out the problem? You might need to find another, more reputable service department. Sure the indicators won’t go off. It needs a repair and an (erase) procedure that can only be done through the Honda or OBDII scan tool. IT IS ALSO VERY CLEARLY MENTIONED IN THE WORKSHOP MANUAL THAT THE DTCS STORED IN THE CPU CANNOT BE ERASED BY DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY, WHICH IS THE SAME AS REMOVING A FUSE (only difference being a fuse removes power only to that circuit, but the battery will remove power to all systems).
You are being informed of a possibly potentially dangerous problem and you have to get it fixed. (Simply speaking, don’t be calling your lawyer if something untoward happens – the case will be thrown out since a CPU diagnostic will show up bright and clear that a warning of such magnitude existed prior to the occurrence. And don’t ever try fooling the date/time/cause of occurrence/data logs maintained by a CPU. It is present and it can be extracted from the memory.
I have a distinct feeling that your dealer fooled around with something else and has introduced a bug into your cruise control system. Idle is controlled by the CPU and I don’t quite know what you mean by vehicle (won’t idle). You also have an unexpected/unexplained acceleration problem. Part of the TCS programme is to retard the engine when traction is lost, to protect the transmission, but your new problems don’t have anything to do with ABS/TCS.
Also from his comments, I think he knows that he buggered (excuse the language) something up, but does not know how to rectify it. Of course you have a dangerous driving situation on your hands. And he told you to go out to your garage and disconnect the battery cable to fix all your problems? I would not pay $30k+ for a vehicle with such simple electronics. The printers must have also had a field day printing forty pages of diagnostic gibberish if all anyone had to do was disconnect the battery!
All vehicles have problems at some time or other. It is not really fair to relate a product quality and the after-sale service that is available from knowledgeable sources. It is expected of service departments, but do you believe that in this day and age of profits and meagre salaries, dealerships are really going to send their mechanics for training at their expense. Sadly, in a lot of situations, that is not the case. A lot of things are done trial-and-error.
Take a serious look at your problem and get it fixed. Good luck. Please be free to ask if you need more information, other than me coming over and fixing that problem for you.
Take care, have the vehicle towed to a dealer on a flatbed and drive it only when it is safe.
Also, the driver side sliding door started to rattle a lot about a week ago. Dealer says he took the door off the car and shook it and confirmed the rattle. First he said he would need 3-5 days to order a new latch handle. Then the next day he called and said they took the door apart and found a loose plastic tab which they removed and he says the rattle stopped. I asked him if he knew what the tab was for or if it fell off of something useful and he said it just didn't belong there and they took it out. I'm suspicious. Anyone have ideas on this?
As for break pedal switch, I had not have the same problem since. I could not find a time to see the dealer; following your advise, I will get the electical lubricant and spray it myself.
Read about the problems US buyers had with lack of enough Odys to sell.
However, practice in Canada is to have just one demo vehicle and a vehicle for sale is never used as a demo.
Visible transmission slippage is a problem and not the 'grade logic program'in action that you tried to explain. Grade logic helps by down-shifting upon hard braking and holding a gear longer in a particular gear on hilly terrain to prevent gear hunting.
Someone has inherited the problem, hopefully identified and fixed by now.
One of my latest postings contains information on the above. Find a good dealership and work with him. You have a problem that needs repair soon or you present yourself with an unknown consequence.
Your dealer seems also to have taken the easy way out; disconnected the battery or opened a fuse. You need someone more interested in your problem.
Drive carefully
It is heartening to read that you seem to be gradually getting beyond the phase of pulling fuses. Hopefully, you have gone past Chapter 11-4 and realise that due to lack of knowledge (and not the absence of knowledge), dealers have been doing the same thing you have - expecting the problem to go away. Does not happen that way.
It also appears that you are in possession of the Grey Service Manual; not the Electrical Handbook as well - which, of course, may not be sold to the US/Canadian public.
You are right, it is a whole lot more than a ABS/TCS problem, but the system is programmed to reference the ultimate point of danger. In this case, the vehicle control system.
I repeat an earlier warning. The CPU data logger is very, very accurate. You can/will experience problems with warranty coverage if irreversible
damage is caused to sensor/s due to negligence on the owner's part.
A dealer might try to evade responsibility in fixing the problem due to lack of knowledge or otherwise. He could wait long enough to show that the owner is at fault, neglecting the warning lights. A record of problem reporting is all you will have to go by.
I don't know if your warranty has expired or not. Either way, at some time you will need to get your problem diagnosed. The more damage with time, the more you will eventually be out of pocket.
This is just a friendly message. You don't need to acknowledge it, but if you do, no snide remarks please.
Drive safely.
You are more than welcome. I hope your slider problems are over. Just keep in mind all the different switches and what not to work with the
sliders.
I could make a lot of money 'fine tuning' the doors. Just dealer talk. The Ody system has also been described as one of the best in
the market by R&D experts. However, complex electronics has its drawbacks. Trying to create a mechanical brain to understand, handle and relate to the numerous variables in the automotive industry is very difficult.
Nobody complained when everything was 'manual'. We carry the same notion into an 'automatic' way of life.
Happy driving to you and hope you contine enjoying your Ody.
Please check with your dealership if your VIN was among the Odys recalled due to sticking throttle plate from freezing moisture. It is possible your notice was lost in the mail.
This recall is more than a year old and mostly '99 Odys. But your '00 could have come into that production schedule. A fix was to drill more holes in the intake to prevent moisture collecting and freezing in the throttle chamber.
Don't wait for an answer from this forum. Just take your vehicle to your dealer and he should have a printout of the recall & fix, even if he has had the good furtune of not doing one yet - unlikely in my view.
This is potentially serious if you drive in very cold climates.
Take care and drive safe.
Thanks for your response. I am sure you are mechanically inclined/interested enough to have bought both the manuals.
Pity the warranty has expired. Any idea what the dealer might charge for a diagnostic and repair?
If you can, why don't you get some help from a family member or friend and run a diagnostic yourself. I don't know about the Honda scanner, but over here we are in a position to obtain/rent/buy an OBDII scan tool and once you get the hang of it, it is not difficult to use.
I am sorry that you are caught between a stone and a hard place in trying to fix (or at least find out) the problems you have with the Ody. I can live with doors. But I am not too sure about ABS/TCS. Albeit, for you to be driving without the indicators for any length of time simply means that the CPU has signaled the ABS/TCS to go into "fail safe mode".
Hope you find a solution and it does not cost you too much if you intend fixing it.
Take care.
Thanks for your prior ownership experiences. I am a little skeptical about the technician explaining a bad ground for the sending unit on your '98 Ody. Unless the wire was damaged somewhere, jiggling a wire is not going to make a
ground better. Contamination may be more plausable.
However, it is good that solved your problem.
Local workshops (dealers or otherwise) won't go near a Honda or Toyota transmission. It is also easier on the manufacturer for them to fix a problem and not have the mechanic destroy
the unit and then send it to them.
Surprising the dealer changed the PGM-FI (so long as you did not pay for it), it has nothing to do with the transmission - not directly. That is the fuel injection computer. Sure enough it did not solve the problem.
Customers are asking for more and more bells and whistles in newer vehicles. We should also expect more problems. Solving them is the trick.
Happy driving.
You are welcome to anything I and everyone around me knows. Knowledge is good. No, I don't work for any one particular manufacturer. Simply put, I have a drawing board and have been in RD & D since the mid seventies (around the world)
in this and another Canadian mainstay industry; Oil & Gas.
Yes, electronics are very small matters, and also come in small packages. But due to their complexity can cause big headaches.
Don't just think it is Honda. I have seen all types, including a $100k+ custom built BMW 735i. Amalgamating advanced electronics into the automotive industry has been just about every manufacturer's nightmare. Would you
believe a Boeing 747 has far fewer problems!
There should be no fuss with complaining about your vehicle to the dealer. Honda expect it. Check your state laws. Lemons can now be categorised after TWO attempts at fixing a problem without success.
Good luck to permanently fixing all your Ody's problems.
I don't want to repeat my postings, but read back and look for solutions to your problem.
One, you cannot force a partly closed door. You will encounter two things depending on the position of the revolution counter.
The door will attempt to close and then pull back, or you will forceably drag the counter out of synchronization.
Pulling fuses will not reset doors. Door resetting and synchronization has a special procedure.
Two, your doors are in a mess. Pulling a fuse and then putting it back with the door still in the wrong place has told the CPU
controlling the motor and revolution counter that the new position is now "the new zero point" of opening (or closing).
Three, door closed but back end sticking out means your vehicle could be one of the 'latching' recalls - though not been informed.
There could be grease in the mechanism that, under certain weather conditions, could be slow to latch, going technically into an unlatched situation. Your last two lines indicate you are helping it to latch by putting slight force before the latch sits in the striker - if timed right. However, it should be doing it on its own.
A door with its back end sticking out can be opened by hand, without engaging the latch, with the master swich off, but pushing it manually. It is not safe.
Get your dealer to do a full diagnostic - find out why the door would not close properly in the first place, and then do a full proper reset and synchronization.
We will be glad to read the results of your Friday visit to the dealer.
Door chatter was mentioned in early 1999 on both LX and EX vehicles. I have the results of tests done to determine the noise in different
weather conditions. After 2000 openings and closings during a total of three months including temperatures of minus 35C, no flat spots
were seen on the rollers.
However, the revolution counter is an electromechanical device and in very cold weather, especially on a vehicle parked outside, the device tended to latch-stop each revolution. This made a mechanical noise which was transmitted through the beams giving the impression that the roller/s were bumping as they travelled along the track.
Also, probably not wanting to spoil their product image, in my opinion, Honda failed to make one request of EX owners. Least of all in cold weather, try to avoid opeing and closing the sliders without the engine running. The slider motors put a decent amount of strain on the battery after a vehicle has been sitting overnight in cold temperatures.
However, if for some reason your door rollers (LX) are out of round, have the dealer replace them. Carefully checking a deformed roller
could also reveal some other problems causing it to go out of round, and just not a roller product manufacturing defect.
Caviller, nice wash-freeze job. Did you get locked out? If you need to wash the vehicle in freezing weather, open all doors for a while and
wipe down the seals after washing. Don't just let them run off and close the doors again. Minimal moisture can seal them shut again. I have regularly used silicon weatherstripping spray on all my vehicles and it has really helped in Winter. A shot of Brandy after reaching
home should fix any s..... driver, but I don't think that is mentioned in the manual!!!
Happy Driving.
Quite a few US owners are experiencing door problems. Work with the dealer. If you suspect anything, you have the option of using a
different one. Hopefully, my previous postings will arm you enough to approach the problem with reasonable authority.
You seem to have a very dedicated dealer!!?? Taking a door off a vehicle is not advised by the manufacturer. He would need a real body-builder to lift and shake the door and finally, he will not hear rattles that are more representative of daily driving.
Did he break the latch handle in the bargain? I mean, when he shook the door, what part rattled? A loose plastic tab will not cause a rattle wherever it may fall within the door. He must have broken a tab when removing the door panel. Now you may have a new problem.
The plastic press-on tabs are moulded to the panel. If one (or more) is broken, he should have changed the panel itself. Otherwise
you now have a panel that is not connecting the frame at some point/s and which could lead to more rattles in future.
How did he know the tab did not "belong there"?? I don't have a good feeling about this service department.
However, for now, if your problems have been solved and you don't get rattles from the panel, you might have to give him the benefit of the doubt. I hope you don't have any more door problems, too.
About your fuel gauge:
What is your total mileage to date and is the vehicle broken in. Thirteen gallons is about two-thirds tank, so for a new vehicle your mileage appears okay - though I don't know your driving habits and local weather conditions. If the needle is showing less full than the tank actually is, it could do the same at the othe end too. That is, when you fill up, it won't go to "F" or a bit higher. You might need to check this a couple of times to be sure.
My '99 had no consumption problem but the needle stayed between 3/4 and "F" with a full tank. You might need a new fuel sending unit, but as I said, you may need to check this again. In the
meanwhile, log this problem on the dealers computer. Don't be silent about it.
Door latch assembly was replaced and junction box repaired. Also adjusted switches per Bulletin #99-072. Door works fine now. Service writer wasn't able to tell me how the original latch broke and if it was a common problem or if the new latch was an improved design to prevent future problems. Also couldn't get copy of bulletin.
Are these bulletins on-line? Also appears from several earlier door problem posts that the door latch replacement is a typical fix. Anyone know if the replacement latches have been redesigned (hopefully to improve them) or was there a quality problem with some original latch assy? Wondering if EX owners are destined to visit the service department every year or so for the door latch assembly.
Thanks in advance for any responses.
Yes, that spray nozzle again. I am working on a fix (with the dealers blessings) to adapt the front fan-spray outlet port to the Ody rear wiper setup. Also working with the GM design. You might want to talk to your dealer about the same, if he is willing to help. I will post a solution when I obtain some decent results - not something falling off after the first rainfall!!
There are different types of electrical lubricant spray for various applications. Call your dealer and ask what they use. Some sprays are a bit heavier and may not penetrate the switch cylinder.
Alternatively, you could check different sprays at a electrical/hardware shop and use the one described as the most useful to you.
Take care and drive safely.
I have never had a problem with getting a wash in out other recent cars in slightly below freezing weather. Of course, none had sliding doors either. Live and learn.
Thanks for all the great responses. I anxiously await your fix for the rear wiper nozzle. That, and the awkward shift lever are my two biggest complaints on my 2001 LX. Pretty minor things really, but always looking for a fix:-)
Oops, I meant them changing the PCM. (the computer module).
The tech "jiggled" and then tightened the wire so it wasn't loose anymore. This was
done at the fuel tank.
I am headed back to the dealer.
home we noticed a loud wind noise coming from
the cross bars when we hit 40 mph. Is this
wind noise common on the Odyssey when the
cross bars are installed? Could we have a bad
set of crossbars?
I do not know if anyone has experience the same problem and know how to fix it.
I went to dealer and made an appointment for next week.
Hai
You're right about confusing the CPU by pulling the fusses with the door in part way position. When I did that (before the door was fixed today, see post 277 for report)my EX didn't know what to do and the doors would not respond with any of the controls. Had to manually close the doors (not easy), start up the van and drive it around the block before it somehow reset itself and started working again (except for the latching).
Based on your post, the failed latch assembly maybe one of the recalled one or one where there is the grease problem. Are they one in the same? Since the service writer at the Honda dealer couldn't tell me and he didn't mention about the latch recall, I'm wondering if I'll be going back for latch replacement again on the driver side door or maybe even again on this repaired door. Do you know what was the problem with the recalled latch assemblies? Has Honda officially fixed this problem?
Thanks for your helpful responses on this board.
If the doors beep over bumps and or opens partially while driving after being fully shut then that is usally bad junction switch contacts, mis adjusted door striker and or bad grounds.There is a service bulletin for this.
If the door stops working all together then there is probably a code on the doors ecu and when this happens it shuts that doors power off.Most of the codes we see are codes 25 and they have a seperate bulletin out for that which also has you improve body grounds and adjust the doors.
Exindenver,
The next time if there is a next time you pull a fuse and the door needs to be relearned you can put the key on and push and hold the main switch for that door until that door fully opens and then push and hold the button until the door fully closes and it will work after that normally.
Thanks.
_ Alex
To Auburn63 - Post #287
To all posts interested in EX Door Problems
Recall #99V158, #99V159 and #00V119 all refer to sliding door problems for vehicles manufactured during Aug'98 to Mar'99, Aug'98 to Jan'99 and Dec'99 to Jan'00 respectively.
#99V159 refers to the grease problem but references it could effect the vehicles covered by #99V158 as well. Manufacturer probably took extra care with grease for the vehicles in the
2000 year recall.
Except for the grease recall, the others specifically refer to doors unlatching (and probably opening) while being driven with the doors already closed in the first place. It had to do with oversensitive latch sensors and not really the contact switches on the doors and pillars. By design, with proper track (top and bottom at front of door) alignment and rear latch alignment the door is pretty rigid when closed and will not move or flex enough to reposition or misalign the door switches. For any minor movement, the switches do have a 8mm travel length and 5mm insulated spacing to prevent cross switching. Consequently, the latching assembly was replaced.
The grease problem specifically referred to the "power door lock remote control actuator unlatching the door in response to the input from the remote transmitter". Slowed due to excess grease. The fix for this was to replace the 'power door lock remote control assembly'.
My tech says that #99-072 did not appear as a full blown recall. He believes attempts were made to find out why a latch failed and service people were initially looking towards mis-aligned door switches/contact points/bad grounds and had posted a 'service bulletin' on their computer. Subsequently a recall was initiated due to passenger safety. Available paperwork indicates it was a manufacturer initiated recall. I cannot confirm this as I don't have available safety association extracts of accidents/fatalaties as a result of faulty latches/actuators.
Manufacturers issue internal bulletins to make dealerships aware of more obvious solutions to problems before parts are replaced under warranty. It is also for dealerships to do some simple diagnostics, than a quick-fix replacement, since time and parts are charged out to the manufacturer.
I don't understand what "junction box" was repaired. My tech says the new latch design is essentially the same, but the electronics were tweaked. It is a closed-system (sealed) design, so I am not in a position to verify that. Seems plausable since faulty latches were to be returned to manufacturer.
Any other door malfunctions, like not fully closing, need not be related to the above. A possible fix is provided in the manual, but it need not remove a problem. Continuously cycling the doors to try and fix a problem probably only adds a repeated DTC code to the memory pack. Yes, when you drive the vehicle, the main CPU does do a full cyclic relearn of all the systems plus all new driving sequences and if it encounters a dangerous DTC, it will emulate a
repair and go into "fail-safe-mode". Just like the ABS/TCS, every risk management system in the vehicle has a fail safe mode.
I hope EX owners with door repairs done don't ever see a dealer about this problem again. By numbers, from all the vehicles manufactured,
approx twenty-seven thousand were recalled for the latches and seven thousand for the grease job.
I hope your problem never comes up again. Happy driving.
An EX owner once came to my tech with a broken latch unit. Washed her van, which had a kid in the back seat, in well below freezing at a
drive-through ESSO. Parked after washing and got out to clear some water frozen on windshield with a scraper. Tried to get back in, but was completely locked out; not even the tailgate. Kid started to bawl and mum got anxious. Called a gas attendant who tried in vain.
By this time the mother was in a bad state and while someone went to phone 911 another attendant yanked the slider next to the kid. Out popped the door. Damage done. Broken door handle, locking mechanism and torn weather-stripping. Too shaken to drive, the vehicle was towed to dealer for thaw out and repairs.
Still facing installation problem with rear wiper port. GM design is tubing, not too hard to install, but don't want to put holes in plastic.
Am looking at another GM design for the shift lever. Shift rod angled outward and upward. Problem is that GM design is straight-notch, Honda is arc-notch. Notice the gear lever moving in an arc outwards towards you? A change in lever angle is causing interference with steering
column. I have also to check if there are legalities to such mods. The wiper is no problem but the shift lever might be.
Happy Driving.
Changing the PCM under warranty, if possibly defective, is okay. So long as you did not pay for it. They cost quite a bit.
So long as you don't have fuel sending unit problems again there is nothing to worry about. Seems, from what you say, the ground wire was
loose, but the ground you refer to is not associated with the pump. Take note that the sending unit has its own ground through its internal sealed wiring system, by which it is controlled. Your tech played with an external ground. Nonetheless you now have no more pump problems.
Take care and happy driving.
Wind tunnel emulated tests have shown that, compared with nearly all minivans and SUVs, the cross bars on the Ody do generate wind noise.
It is more noticeable when there are direct or cross winds to the path of travel. It was also noticed that there was more wind noise when wind was present compared to just the vehicle travelling at high speed in no-wind conditions.
Smoke tunnel emulated tests show that due to the Ody's raked windshield wind currents sit lower to the roof level than usual contriburing to noise.
Unless you were driving against some high winds, I am of the opinion it may not be the cross bars making the noise at just 84kmph. Check your
front windshield seal. Also, might you have been driving with one or both of the rear quarter glasses partly or fully opened? Or the tailgate not fully closed?
I don't believe you have a "bad set" of cross bars. Also, cross bars on all vehicles generate more wind noise than is usually present.
You can check your own situation. On a windy day (not too much though, or everything will be noisy) drive your van over a long stretch and
register the "noise" you hear. Put off radio, a/c, front & rear fans and all windows closed.
If you can obtain a LX from you dealer (or EX without cross bars) or a friend, conduct the same test immediately after. Try and discern the difference.
Personally, I too was mildly concerned about cross bar wind noise because I needed the bars, but not always, and did not want to reinstall
them each time I needed them. I have driven long trips and I have not found the noise markedly more than my '99 EX that had not bars. If the noise still bothers you, you don't need the bars and you are not too concerned about the vehicle' aesthetic looks, you can take them off and store them.
If you do the tests, please post your findings. Take care.
That noise is unusual. You could be faced with rubbing surfaces and/or loosening of electrical contacts in the vicinity.
Please take your vehicle to the dealer and have it attended to. If possible be present in the shop when it is checked and let him show you what may be causing the squeaking noise.
I don't recall this being reported in these forums and I have not experienced that sound to date.
1. Door Open
A. If the door is open when completed, close the door manually to its full latch position.
B. Open door manually and midway through opening, the door should automaticlly take over and operate properly.
2. Door Closed
A. If the door is closed when completed, open the door manually and completely.
B. Then close the door and midway through the system should take over and operate properly.
Final note I have been working on these doors since they came out and have great success at fixing them and do not mean in anyway to say that all you say is wrong just some of which..
Today the dealer fixed it. They said the pivots were too dry. They disassemblied and lubricated the joints with grease.
I drove a lot of used cars before. I never had this kind of problem. I hope this is just a case the factory forgot to apply grease to them. Do they need to be greased to begin with?
Two years ago I bought a Honda Accord. I am not too satisfied with Honda quality. The assembly quality is not very good. I found three places having obvious non-symmetry.
Honda is not as good as before when it's made in Japan.
I just brought my 2001 LX to the dealer for this problem which appeared just before Xmas. The crack has spread to the top side of the window washer now. No problem under warranty repair - van goes in Thu. Dealer needed to see to ensure defective part rather than owner damage. Also going to list the following for warranty work: (1) Lubricate front door handles (interior & exterior) & sliders (2) Ditto sticking pax side slider (3) Rattles in slider (4) Wind noise at top of driver's window when > 35 MPH (5) Whistling sound from engine? (left side of the hood) when accelerator is depressed between 35 - 50 MPH (6) The perennial " 6 gallons in gas tank when Low Fuel light comes on" issue. Some of these may be trivial to others, but no harm in putting them on record. Have 3,600 miles on the van - SUPERB on TN - FL trip, except for road noise (have the Firestone Affinities). Good luck with yours!!