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VW may be a well kept secret - but I think the word is getting out. My company relocated their headquarters to Omaha (thus the commute) and we've had 8 (including me) of the 120 people that live in Lincoln buy TDIs - and I know of 3 more that are looking. Gonna have to start a company car club:)
Let me answer the question, backwards. At a Bay Area GTG, I met and had the pleasure of watching him work his magic a TDI guru who has taken apart many TDI engines both with EGR mods and without and so called CA fuel fed engines and rest of 49 states. It is his considered opinion that the CA fuel fed engines with EGR mod is by far the cleanest and as an observation has worn less.
Here is article today which again states the 25% sales decrease. Also is very interesting that VWOA has 50 person team to improve quality.
If the TDI attracts buyers new to VW I sincerely hope they have an experience with the TDI as enjoyable as mine and may they never expereience a VW dealer as bad as the one near my home;)
(gas) which has adequate power & cruise along at 80 mph, getting 32-33 mpg.
Also, the tdi was being sold at 17,500 with 17k miles. Tried to go lower but dealer would not budge.
Don't let a dealer take advantage of high gas prices to inflate TDI prices. VW sales are very poor.
I was #3 in a line of traffic the other day riding the passing lane behind minivan mom running 66mph. Days later when she finally got around a semi running 65mph.....#2 was driving a newer Maxima which belched a big wad of black smoke as he accelerated off. I stayed right with him in 5th gear and really wasn't giving it much throttle. The Conversion van riding my tail was still passing minivan mom way back in my mirror.
I have NEVER had any issues with the accelleration of my 2003 TDI. It is so torquey that I dont have to even touch the accellerator pedal when starting from a stop... just release the clutch and your moving.
The V8 Hemi in my truck does not even have that kind of torque at idle!! (It needs some throttle when releasing the clutch) AND $40 OF FUEL TO GO 250 MILES!
I wonder what you need a lot of accelleration for anyway? There are better drag-racer cars available than the TDI.
I would also like to do the EGR MOD. I have access to a "generic" scan tool...does it have to be a VW scan tool? Also, where can I find the instructions for this procedure?
http://tdiclub.com/TDIFAQ/TDiFAQ-7.html#j
It is suggested that you locate somone in your area with the proper software on a laptop computer. Most folks with the equipment are more than glad to help you out for free. (TDIers are a pretty good group of folks)
BTW, couldn't be happier with this car. It's comfortable..solidly built....I'm observing 44mpg in pretty much all city driving...my only complaint...the rear seat is a little small...but then again...so are my kids.
My TDI has 170,000 kms on it.
My wife drove it to San Francisco and back (with 3 others plus luggage for a 1-week road trip) for < US$85 in fuel ... over 2000 miles.
And I met a guy in town who bought a new Jetta TDI to replace his last Jetta diesel ... it has over 450,000 kms on it.
Another friend restored her old Golf diesel (1979) and took 1st prize in a Seattle car show. She rebuilt the engine in the process since it was out of the car, although it didn't need it .... the car only had 313,000 kms on it.
I haven't done the EGR mod, but would like to. Its getting mostly city usage now and that's what causes problems.
It is ALWAYS better to purchase more than you think you will need, then return any unopened containers after you have completed the task.
As for "brand", just like all the other fluids, it does not matter as long as it meets specifications.
SUGGESTION: If you have never bled a hydrolic brake system before, I suggest that you do not attempt it on your own. Each of the wheels must be removed and the hydrolic lines purged to that "corner" of the vehicle. The ABS and ESP systems must be considerd too.
I hope you were not just expecting to suck the fluid out of the master-cylinder resivour and refill it. That would be a bad move.
The fact of the matter is you can actually do the whole bleed sequence in 15-20 oz max.
You can do it the old fashion two person method, Sears among others sell brake fluid bleeding kits. I use a "Motive" brake bleeder with the Euro and import adapters.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thank You again
Thank you for any assistance.
The only strong argument I have heard about the "drain-plug" process is that it gives you the oppertunity to inspect the bottom-side of the engine, xmission and other drivetrain components.
Not only is there the "Pela 6000" there are seveal other vacuum oil-extractors such as the "topsider"
Here are some links to oil-extractors;
http://www.pelaproducts.com/
http://www.globalrider.com/
http://www.jerrybleach.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/Store/p-pl6000.ht- ml?L+scstore+clqq0692ff7f8e7f+1078792901
There are several places that have the armrests as spare parts. (They are not cheep) You may wish to consider a salvage-yard. Oftentimes, if you are willing to go out in the yard and remove the part yourself, you can get a reasonable price.
When my daughters 1st VW had the door-handle broken off, she and I went to a local scrapyard and for $7 got a replacement.
CHeck out these links for armrest parts;
http://www.car-part.com/
http://www.husco.com/cgi-bin/ePages4.filereader?4004d47a003261970- 000c0a80142059c+EN/products/125682&2D1012604
http://www.impex.com
Has anyone used them? Do they breath or do they feel hot/wet like vinyl covers? Do they last?
That's the best I can give you. It's pretty hard to know exactly what the mpg would be at those speeds. Even my test was not scientific because you need to average several tanks of similar driving. A good head-wind/tail-wind will mess up your averaging even. Considering the TDI is geared the same in overdrive/5th gear regardless of transmission, as long as you had a base line difference between the trannys you could estimate better. Says there's 5mpg difference between the two. If I had to put a mileage on the 5-speed at those speeds it would be this:
50mph- 52mpg
60mph- 50mpg
70mph- 48mpg
80mph- 46mpg
So assuming a 5mpg difference, you'd be 47mpg, 45mpg, 43mpg, 41mpg respectiveley for the auto. That would be 100% highway driving with no stopping. This is completely unscientific and nothing more than an educated stab at the dark!
I don't own one, but I've been awfully appreciative of the learning curve that I've been on over the past 56 pages. My car (95 dodge spirit with 188k) just isn't ready to give up the ghost.
What is the expected price increase for the lower emitting diesels in 2006 or so?
Thanks for your time.
This is just a SWAG but I think it might be 10-15 cents higher.
Also, I'm comparing with the MAXX. Any clue? i really not sure about the OHV engin.
Appreciate.
EGR means "Exhaust Gas Recirculation" It is a emmissions FUNCTION... not a physical "thing" on an engine.
There are parts that make up the "EGR" system such as the EGR valve or the EGR cooler. I have never heard of either needing to be cleaned. Especially if one runs the MANDITORY synthetic oil that the TDI engine requires. (specifically to reduce carbon in a cooled EGR system.)
Perhaps you are thinking of the Intake Manifold or the Intercooler that may tend to get plugged up if the engine is not driven hard enough to keep the gunk from setteling in them.
..or perhaps you are thinking of the "snow screen" which should be cleaned off at every-other oil change (20K,40K,60K miles) The snow screen often gets plugged with leaves and insect carcuses which slows down the airflow into the engine, this can lead to other problems.
Also, I'm comparing with the MAXX. Any clue? i really not sure about the OHV engin.
Appreciate. "
On the face of it, one might say it is 1. preference and if you are willing to pay 2. premium and live with 3. app 6 mpg difference. 4. there are other issues but I am sure you are aware of them 5. If you plan to do any one or number of power upgrades a. injectors b. chip c etc and do not want to upgrade the clutch for example, the auto is the way to go. I have seen automatics with 300 # ft of torque with no tranny upgrade. That would not be smart with a manual clutch! The other thing is the clutch (depending on driver of course and conditions obviously) can go between 100-500k. and will cost upwards of 600 US if you bring it to a shop. Automatics while it can breakdown (but will probably be more costly than a clutch job) will probably outlast the clutch.
I have driven extensively in Vancover (B.C. eh?) with both 6 speed manual and automatics. I would say that although it can be a pain during traffic, a manual is do able.
Yes, I do live in BC. I really thinking of a 5M, but if the Tiptronic is close to 5M, then I may get a 5A. i believe change clutch is still better than changing the transmission. Also, it's much more power in this 100hp car.
Does anyone know if this means you can now register these vehicles in those states? Otherwise, I'll probably have to wait until 2006 for low sulfur diesel.
For example while in CA the selling of 2004 model year is banned, you can register a 2004 TDI as a used car with 7500 miles.
http://www.dieselgeek.com/intakeservice.htm
Basically, you order a "kit" and then just swap out your clogged intake-manifold for the one in the "kit". All gaskets are included inthe "kit".
You send your clogged intake manifold back in the included shipping container and get the "core change" back when they recieve it.
This is a GREAT idea and the cost is reasonable especially if one considers the chemicals, scraping, mess and time it takes to clean a clogged intake manifold.