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Highway (70 mph): 55 mpg
Stickshift
With the TDI you get a more luxurious and fun to drive high MPG car. I feel you simply get more for your money with TDI than Prius or Civic. With any of the three you are doing the environment a favor compared to 98% of the vehicles sold.
If you want high mileage to reduce the cost of driving then the TDI and the hybrids do not make sense. The higher cost of purchase is not recovered by the decrease in fuel mileage.
I got to thinking about this issue, when I thought about more mileage per gallon and thinking green. But then I realize that the new hybrids, half electric with a generator motor, and the other half fuel engine, both working together to achieved low mpg. But what I concern about is the maintenance for these new hybrid vehicles, are they really green in the long run, especially the battery storage for the generators, from what I understand they use multiple battery cells to store energy charge. Eventually these new batteries need to be replace and brings another issue of proper disposal and pollution. I might be wrong but I hoping someone can help me clear things up. Thanks!
Here's the basic maintenance for the TDI
10,000 miles: oil change (the 1st 2 oil changes are done 5,000 miles)
20,000 miles: fuel filter
80,000 miles: timing belt
The 1.8T does 5,000 mile oil changes (my owner's manual isn't in front of me), you got spark plugs to change, fuel filter, & timing belts also.
If you run biodiesel in a TDI, you have the greenest car on the road, by a HUGE margin.
Volkswagen & Audi VIN decoder Version 1.11, September 2000
VIN Number: WVWSP61J12W525065
Model Year No value found for value - 2 (2)
Model Type Golf/Jetta/Bora(A4) (1J)
Model Style VW Passenger car made in Europe (WVW)
Body Type 4 door Sedan (S)
Engine Type No value found for value - P (P)
Rest Type Driver, Passenger & Side Airbag Restraint (6)
Plant Made Wolfsburg (W)
Lee
New guy here. Strongly condsidering new purchase of 4dr Golf TDI.
Test drove auto trans model. Sensed it had good low end and mid range torque but not so confident about its "Passing" power. Would it be safe on an auto trans model to drop it to the next position down from "Drive" (3?)-- at 55 or 60 mph, for a few seconds to build up RPM -- in order to enhance passing capability? I had a small pickup truck (manual) and dropping from 5th to 4th (briefly) was the recommended method of building passing speed.
Or would it just be better with this concern in mind to go with the MANUAL?
(I'm a little spoiled in the upper end performance bracket due to my old Saab 900 Turbo).
Thanks in advance!
db
For those of you interested, my dealer tells me that the next model makeover of the Jetta will make it bigger inside to address the North America market and that the next generation Passat (they're shooting for 2005) WILL include a diesel engine (FINALLY). My own impression is that 1) the technology will be better and 2) it will be a higher HP engine.
Lastly, I drove a new W-8. If I had the $38k and need for speed / German luxury, it would be in my garage. It was fast and very stable. It was like driving a 'slotcar' - it held the road very well (like it belonged there) and felt solid.
This transmission does have a lockup torque converter, doesn't it? Haven't driven one yet as I only recently discovered that VW, in their infinite wisdom, has finally decided to make the TDIs again available in California.
So the question, is it better to go back to third which would be around 2675 rpm at 55 mph, or 2920 rpm at 60 mph and go up to 77 mph which is about 3750 revs, or let the engine 'lug it', staying in 4th gear? 55 mph in 4th gear locked up is 1982 rpms; 60 mph figures out to be 2162 rpms.
Since most automatics are controlled by a computer these days, I don't think that will be of any concern to any individual owner.
With the standard transmission yes, it would be, but not if you have the automatic. The computer will decide what is best when the throttle is opened fully, and do what is needed. And in the same manner, it'll decide when the correct speed has been reached if it did 'force' the downshift, and the computer will 'order' the automatic when to upshift into 4th gear. I would guess it would be somewhere between 75 - 80 mph.
Anyone care to comment on the torque converter lockup question? Please do!
We must go with the automatic because my wife has a bad left knee.
Anyone know if the computer has a rev limiter for the motor?
And if it does, what is that limit?
<<
Test drove auto trans model. Sensed it had good low end and mid range torque but not so confident about its "Passing" power. Would it be safe on an auto trans model to drop it to the next position down from "Drive" (3?)-- at 55 or 60 mph, for a few seconds to build up RPM -- in order to enhance passing capability? I had a small pickup truck (manual) and dropping from 5th to 4th (briefly) was the recommended method of building passing speed.
Or would it just be better with this concern in mind to go with the MANUAL?
>>
In closing I want to state that I slightly prefer the auto in the TDI to the manual.
Thanks for responding.
Yes, I knew you had TDIs with both transmissions, and that you drive and seemed to prefer the automatic Golf, as that is your daily driver, right? I read all of the messages trying to find all the information I could.
Can you please field that T/C question for me? Should you not understand what I am asking, please email me off-line, but having read all of your posts, I seriously doubt that!
Under mimimum throttle, at what speed does the T/C lockup once it reaches top gear or overdrive? This is assuming that it does have a lockup torque converter? My '99 E300 did not have one, and it would not get decent fuel economy on the highway mainly because it didn't have that feature which is common to most, if not all recent automatic transmission equipped vehicles. Without that T/C lockup feature, there is slippage even at highway crusing speeds on level ground, and when you hit an incline or grade, the revs will show an increase of several hundred rpm because of that slippage of the torque converter,
and fuel is simply being waisted heating transmission fluid.
If your speedometer is correct, and I've figured it right, you should show 1900 rpm at 53 mph with the Golf, and 55 mph at 1900 rpm with the Jetta Wagon. With the Golf, at that 1900 rpm, the tach should not jump a couple of hundred revs when you accelerate from that speed slowly. The revs will rise, but only as your speed is increased, and not as a result of there not being a torque converter that is locked up. No T/C lockup will show an immediate jump of two or three hundred rpm when the throttle is increased even slightly, especially at the lower speeds. Some people can detect the T/C when it locks up as it will seem like the transmission is upshifting again, as if it had a fifth gear, and the tachometer will drop slightly. When the transmission torque converter is locked up, the vehicle will then 'feel' almost as if it has a standard transmission which has no slippage, correct?
60 mph is about 2150 rpm,
65 mph is about 2330 rpm, and
70 mph should be 2509 rpm.
BTW, were you the owner of a hot, or bad mopar product at one time?
Thanks again.
DHG
If you buy this car be prepared to buy ALL parts from the dealer. I cannot even get an oil filter without going through the dealer. The part numbers are often not even listed at any auto parts store.
Pretty soon you realize that you didn't save a dime on gas. I am looking to buy a Honda now. Honda parts are readily available at any auto parts store and the reliability and high resale have sold me on their product.
By the way what is a MAF? I am sure it is lurking about ready to cost me another thousand dollars.
WOULD YOU recommend to go buy one one to your mom/dada/grandma or best personal friend?
Thanks.
Don't buy one if you do not have a good dealer or other service provider in your area. If you do not have a basic understanding of diesel operation and service requirements or no desire to obtain the knowledge I would not recommend the TDI. The TDI does not require MORE maintenance but it does require DIFFERENT maintenance than a typical gasoline motor.
Parts are available over the internet at much better cost than dealer. This is no different than the Nissan or Chevy I owned in the past. Regular maintenance parts such as filters and oil are available at autoparts stores.
VW and TDI tends to attract more automotive enthusiasts than a Corolla or Accord does and they are much more critical about the cars. Some of these fanatics complain daily about items that an average owner would never have a problem with. Statistically an average VW will have more problems than a Toyota or Honda. It is a fact and not opinion. Given that fact I decided that VW TDI had more to offer than alternatives such as Accord or Camry. I get 40-50 mpg, a great interior, much more driving enjoyment, class leading safety, and average reliability.
So I would recommend the TDI to my father but not my friend because my friend does not even take care of the car they have and is a mechanical idiot.
Had I relied on the opionions of the complainers on the Jetta topic I would never have purchased a VW. I discussed at length the ownership experience of TDI with people who had owned them for at least 2-3 years prior to buying my TDI. Now I own two of them.
To what you have said above, I would add:
It does take a 'special' type of person to own and appreciate a TDI. These motors are not for your average automobile driver, and that type of person will complain about everything. And I would suspect this same individual would get 'hosed' by an dealer that they would take whatever they are driving to for service and repairs!
Pumping your own fuel is really messy, and it smells, and I can't get the smell off of my hands, and it is too noisy, etc. We have heard them all and many more other complaints before, many many times. This type of person has no place with a TDI.
My five day old Jetta Wagon TDI automatic is the best diesel I've owned, and this includes 15 others diesels including several earlier Mercedes Benz and the last MBZ brought to North America, the 1999 E300 TD (Turbodiesel) at $50K! But this 'type' of person would not be happy with even these latest fine machines, the current VW TDIs.
No matter if it were to cost exactly the same to get necessary maintances performed, they will say that it is so expensive compared to the gasoline powered vehicles.
It is my understanding that mine will blow the doors off of the standard 2.0L gasoline engine that has 120 hp. I believe that, as I jumped on mine today 'out-of-the-hole' and I couldn't believe the acceleration.
Most think the TDIs are 'slow' and lack passing ability. NOT! Although mine has only 500 miles, it feels just as strong as the 220 hp Highlander I sold to be able to buy this TDI. It is much more responsive at any highway speed up to 85 mph which is a fast as I've gone so far.
So for those of us that are in the 'know', we will enjoy these fine machines, but to all others, we will simply have to pity them, and wish them godspeed in whatever they buy.
Using the "car" grade nozzles -- there's no mess involved.
I currently drive a BMW 318ti, with a supposed 138hp, but I think it needs a tune because it is not even spunky. The much heavier Jetta TDI can launch and run circles around my 318.
My first car was a 84 Rabbit Diesel, and that was a great car, until it met a quick death to a F-150.
Enjoyed reading this post and I look forward to following up again soon.
The Mini Cooper is expected to get a diesel also....supplied by Toyota.
Thanx for any help.
www.upsolute.com
It's really too bad. Smoke used to be a great tailgater discouragement.
Did you finally get a pump that won't cause you to leave a mess on the floor? To your wife's grin...
www.biodiesel.org
Yesterday, I left the grocery store in the hot sun and began the 12 mile drive home. It took nearly 10 miles of highway driving to begin feeling comfortable.
Is this a function of the environmentally friendly refrigerants (are they less efficient than the older ozone eating chemicals)? Is the black dashboard getting too hot in the sun, and then taking energy to cool down before the car can cool down (the air coming out the vents does not feel 'cold' to me)?
I am nearly due for my first oil change, and will ask them to check the refrigerant level at the same time. I am grateful for any other suggestions or tips! This is my first car with AC, and I expected a little more from it.
Though you have noticed not much air comes out of the outer vents. Just aim one of the center vents towards you.
Are you using the AC on recirculation or vent mode?