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Comments
I will have a 6i 5 door Grand Touring...
I'm getting used to the wing, the lip spoiler is simply not worth $700 to me.
The Insurance Institute for Highway Safety has released cost estimates for the kind of accident that can happen in a parking lot or commuter traffic, when cars are traveling 6 miles per hour.
The Pontiac G6 sustained more than $4,000 in damage from a front-end collision at only 6 mph, according to an insurance industry-funded safety group.
It found only three midsize cars - the Mitsubishi Galant, Toyota (Charts) Camry, and Mazda 6 - came away with damage of $1,500 or less from each of the four crash tests that checked for damage from front, rear, front corner and rear corner collisions. The Institute tested 17 midsize cars in the low-speed test.
Meanwhile, four vehicles saw damage of $4,000 or more from a low-speed front-end collision.
The Volkswagen Passat had the most expensive repair bill at $4,594,-end quote
Nice to know the Mazda6 performed well.
It's cheap and you can do it yourself.
MAZDA6 Sports Sedan & 5-Door*
The MAZDA6 set new standards for performance, driver appeal and styling when it was launched four years ago. As a vehicle that married sports performance with refinement and practicality, it has proven a huge sales success and picked up more than 70 awards for automotive excellence.
For 2008, the MAZDA6 gets even better with a new standard Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS), BOSE ® stereo system (Touring models) and 17-inch alloy wheels (i Sport models).
New or enhanced for 2008:
Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) standard on all models
Standard BOSE ® stereo system (Touring models)
Standard 17-inch alloy wheels (i Sport models)
New exterior colors – Volcanic Red (4-door model) and Silver Metallic
Standard security alarm system (Sport VE and Touring)
*To better meet customer demands for the MAZDA6 Sports Sedan and 5-Door, the MAZDA6 Sport Wagon will be discontinued for the 2008 model year.
With the exchange rate being what it is, I'm very tempted to buy a Mazda 6 hatch in the U.S and 'import' it back up here to Canada. I'm in Alberta. The difference in pricing would seem to be thousands of dollars, based on web-site pricing.
I'm sure there are people out there who've done this. Is it worth it? Being that the U.S. Mazda 6 is made in Michigan(?) I think it avoids some of the import taxes other models would have.
Would anyone know if this would void the warranty? I understand some dealers/manufacturers may do this.
I'm still just considering this, nothing concrete. But unless the warranty is void, it seems it might be worth it.
I really like the way the car drives/handles and the seats are very comfortable. It is lacking a few features I would like to have, but I have yet to find any car that has all my wants.
The engine is no racer, which is fine by me, as I am more interested in the MPG.
Am I reading too much "doom and gloom" into the info on the forums? I realize almost every car will have a few issues over time, it just seems the M6 has more....tell me I'm wrong....
Okay, you're wrong!
Remember that nobody really talks about something unless it's a problem. For every issue that's brought up by someone on this board, there are literally thousands of satisfied owners that are more than happy with their 6.
Me, for instance. 3 years and 55K miles later, the only issue I've had was a bad gas cap that tripped the Check Engine light, replaced under warranty. Other than that, I love my 6, and plan on seriously looking at the second-gen model when I plan on buying my next car in 2010. The gas mileage isn't bad (I have the 3.0L V6 with 5-speed manual), the handling is outstanding, the braking and steering are both direct and accurate, and the styling pretty much puts other midsize cars to shame (IMO).
Buy the 6, you won't regret it! :shades:
BTW, what year 6 are you looking into?
Of course if you really want a mid-size hatchback (er, 5-door) it's either Mazda6, Malibu Maxx (what were they thinking with that styling?), or a European model (most seem quite nice, but so much more $$$ to buy and fix).
Mazda doesn't have the Honda/Toyota-like reputation for reliability, but I think most Honda and Toyota models are terribly styled and have the personality of a wet dishrag, and I'm willing to take on some additional risk of mechanical trouble (be it real or imagined) so that I can actually enjoy looking at and driving my car every day.
Seems like many of the more vocal owners in the forums have had dealer issues exacerbating their car trouble, so you may want to try and find out what sort of reputation your local dealers have before committing to Mazda. If you are purchasing from a Mazda dealer you should try to get the car's service history from them as well. My other impression of the postings here is that many of the issues described have been similar in nature, so there doesn't seem to have been a huge variety of problems.
It's hard to know what the reliability of the Mazda6 really is relative to others in it's class, but my guess is that it's at least average, and quite possibly better than average. Any discussion forum online should also not be considered a good yardstick for measuring reliability. As others have said, people tend to be most vocal when they are unhappy, and tend to say very little or nothing at all when they are happy.
Whatever you decide, good luck!
The local dealer is not offering a very good deal, and the best offer I had was from a dealer 90 miles away. Hopefully the local dealer's service department won't have a problem if I bring in a car for service that was not bought from them.
If you buy elsewhere I'm sure the local dealer's service department will still be happy to take your business even if their sales department didn't sell you the car.
There are only 116 days left in 2007! :P
There are hardly any changes at all in the 2008 and they better be here before November since they are already built.
As far as features being insignificant, I'd wait solely for the improved interface head unit with auxiliary jack. To each his own...
1YVHP80C785M01366
1YVHP80C685M00239 Here are a couple of VIN's if you are interested in verification.
Where did you see Oct. Job 1 info.?
Now I agree with you 100%. Perhaps a host would be kind enough to delete all that.
"An advanced six-speed manual transmission engages the new range of engines, which includes a class-leading 2.5-litre petrol engine (170 PS) and an updated diesel (140 PS). Steering and handling enhancements give a greater sense of smoothness, precision and confidence.
Environmental and safety performance has also been enhanced. Safety features include a new brake system w/ larger disc brakes; ABS, DSC, electronic traction control, brake assist, front active headrest and six airbags for all vehicles in the UK.
Distinctive exterior design is complemented by a more spacious interior with pleasing and intuitive functionality – like the ‘welcome-mode’ lighting that gives the sense of the car coming to life. Impressive new technology includes the CF-Net steering wheel control switches, an eight-speaker, BOSE® Premium Sound System and a Bluetooth® hands-free mobile phone interface (Dependent on grade).
Launching December 2007, the new Mazda6 will make daily driving a delight in every way."
Here are a couple of pics of hatch and wagon that are a little different than the others I've seen previously. Mazda, please bring both of these over to the USA!
Probably a better place to post the pictures.
The new Mazda6 can not arrive soon enough.
Also, I'm curious why the upscale Mazda6s use a relatively anemic 6 cylinder engine as oppose to the turbo-charged 4 cylinder used in the CX-7 which is much more powerful
I believe I've located the screws to adjust the entire lamp -- a notched thumbwheel near the fender and a hex head screw in the crossmember near the radiator. I know changing bulbs can be an interesting exercise from lurking around other forums. Can I aim the projector beams within their housing? If it isn't designed for that, is it worth buying one at a junkyard to see if there is any hope of doing so when the unit is out of the car?
Thanks.
The hatch is the least common body style, but I don't have numbers for you. I looked a long time to find my used 05 at a dealer 60 miles from home. They are also the most expensive.
On an industrial scale, hatchbacks are not big sellers in the U.S. market for some reason. Most of them out there are compacts or smaller, with the Saab, the Malibu Maxx, and Mazda6 being exceptions to that if you don't try to count SUVs and such.
Do you know the model these pics are for? My lights are all round.
Click me!
The pic is for the '03-'05 unit, but I've been told the '06-up unit adjustments are identical.
They're not locking nuts, BTW, the ends of the bolts are for adjusting with a hex key.
Here's another pic: Click me!
With the airbox out so I can reach screw B (sort of), the airmass sensor and a few other emissions/engine management items are disconnected. I'm presuming it is not a good thing to run the engine with these things disconnected. Therefore, the light adjustments need to be done with engine off, except the lights stay on for only a few minutes without the ignition on.
I don't know enough about the car yet. What harm will I do if I let it idle with the airmass sensor and other electrical bits around the air intake disconnected? Can you leave the ignition on without the engine running without doing harm to anything? Some cars get their computers screwed up when you do one or the other of these. Is there a way to bypass the auto lights off feature?
Finally, and this is specifically about the photo posted by greyghost, is screw A the adjustment for the fog light height? It's the only one not indicated in your previous drawings, so by logic it must be what I'm after, but does anyone know for sure? It seems that moving the screw doesn't make much change, although I need to drive it to see how much difference I've made. The back wall of the garage isn't far enough away to properly aim lights. I always do final adjustments at night on a lonely back road, which we have a lot of around here.
Thanks again for any and all assistance.
what genius designed this thing and how are you supposed to adjust the lights?
Ahhh yes, I've cursed out the supposed headlight "designer" many times myself. I feel your pain.
What harm will I do if I let it idle with the airmass sensor and other electrical bits around the air intake disconnected? Can you leave the ignition on without the engine running without doing harm to anything?
Not 100% sure about this, but I'll bet you trip the "check engine" light if the motor is running. If you leave the key at "on" WITHOUT starting the engine, the headlights will not automatically turn off, and you'll be able to work on them without the engine running, and wasting gas. I've done this many times myself without any damage done.
Is there a way to bypass the auto lights off feature?
That? I don't know, but doing the above should make this a non-issue.
is screw A the adjustment for the fog light height?...
Here's a key to the photo I posted earlier, and I apologize for not posting this before.
A: Adjusts the vertical aiming of both the low and high beams.
B: Adjusts the horizontal aiming of the low beam only.
C: Adjusts the vertical aiming of the low beam only.
E: Adjusts the vertical aiming of the integrated fog light only.
The "recommended" order of adjustment:
1. Turn off all lights and remove the low beam fuses to isolate the fog lights and high beams (or cover the low beams with a towel or other object to block out the light).
2. Turn on the high beams only.
3. Adjust A to set the high beam at the desired height. This will affect the low beam’s aim too but that will be corrected later.
4. Adjust D to set the left – right position of the high beam.
5. Turn off the high beams and turn on the integrated fogs.
6. Adjust E to set the integrated fogs at the desired height.
7. Turn off all lights and replace the low beam fuses (or uncover low beams).
8. Turn on the low beams only.
9. Adjust C to set the low beam at the desired height.
10. Adjust B to set the left-right position of the low beam.
11. You may have to adjust C again if B required a lot of adjustment.
I hope all this helps. Enjoy your snow day!
Your pics were very helpful. The above post will help even more. I put a tarp over the open garage door to cut down the incident light and managed to accomplish something. At least now everything is the same height and the left high beam is hopefully aimed down the road instead of into the left ditch.
I found the dustcovers on both sides loose due to the lower locating holes being broken out on both sides. I hope this is not an indication that I will be having light problems like some posters on another site allude to. I might be finding out how good my 4 month 6k mile warranty is. Having the covers off does a lot for being able to get a 13mm wrench on screw A, but I was thinking all it was doing was moving the fogs.
I wonder if I can get my 1/4 inch drive ratchet on those puppies? That would sure be nice. Maybe even a cable style driver with replaceable bits would work, or one of those ratcheting box wrenches from Sears. -- Yes! Another tool I can justify!
I'm not sure what that means, but it sounds to me like whatever hatchbacks are around now are all that there will be...so you may not want to wait too long.
As for the V6...if that is anemic, what do you call my 2.3L I4? The V6 is a US only thing, in the rest of the world the 2.3L I4 is an upgrade and there is no V6. I think Americans would typically prefer a V6 to a 4 cyl turbo and that is why they sell a V6 here.
I contacted the dealer (Mike Bass Ford, Sheffield Ohio) and they said to bring it in and they will take care of it. I would be absolutely blown away if they replace the light units free of charge, but I can hope. Pulling a headlamp unit apparently involves removing the bumper and a couple other things I really don't feel like getting into on my garage floor in this weather.
Anyways, the design is not quite as demonic as I thought. Those little missing pieces make the whole thing seem almost logical. It's really a pain to try to get at the back of the adjusters when they're buried inside the fender. Even the one for the high beam left-right meant taking the airbox out. With those angle drives in place, you could probably work on the aim of the lights relatively easily.
Thanks for all the help, mz6greyghost!
At least I hope so. Their price on this hatch was over $700 below the local Mazda dealer's price on a wagon that was a year and 16k miles older. I'm pretty happy with the deal I got and right now, at least, am expecting they will treat me right on the lights. We'll see.
I'm between a few cars right now and was hoping to get some feedback about how this car does in snow and if you use snow tires. Thank you