Ironically, when I was buying the car, the salesman proudly pointed out that their dealership received Honda's Most prestigious and coveted President's award for Outstanding Service (lip service?) and ONLY 100 such awards are given out to dealerships across the country.As you might guess I was duly impressed ("um- that's nice")I don't think it's the service manager- just the young service rep with ATT-ITOOOOOD!! At any rate, just about everyone deserves a second chance. I went to several Honda dealerships before I settled with this one. The prices were all the same-msrp (supply-demand)The ONLY difference with this one is the salesman got out of his chair and greeted me at the door (who doesn't like to be schmoozed)I was also told the service was excellent- we'll see.
Further development: IMPORTANT!!
found out something interesting at the dealer today. I was inquiring about when to bring the car in for the first oil change and mentioned that the manual specifies 5w-20. The service rep said I must be mistaken because they just got the new specs from American Honda that said to use 5w-30 and he showed me the chart. I said I was not mistaken and showed them the manual to prove it (am I the only one who read it?). They called American Honda and after verifying with the engineers, they confirmed that the manual is correct (5w-20) and the spec sheet that was sent to the Honda dealerships was incorrect!! Amazing isn't it. Anyway, be sure to verify with your dealer that he changes the oil with 5w-20.
note: i posted this earlier on the xxx forum.Even Honda's website mentions 5w-30.
App1nag, I work at a Honda dealer in Eatontown, Nj. If you have come south before it is exit 105. Funny how almost everything in Jersey has an exit number.:).........
Masshoosier, We have our oil pumped from overhead dispenser which carries 5w-30. The newer brand of Hondas are now asking for 5w-20 and we get ours from Honda but when we run out if we can't get it from a local store we use the 5w-30.I will check on what year they started and try to write back.
With all the lights inside the Odyssey, and the probability that it will be hauling kids who have a tendency to leave them on, I can't believe the vehicle does not have some kind of timer to shut them off (even my lowly Voyager had that no-brainer feature) after the motor is turned off. Has anyone else contended with this problem? Is there a setting somewhere that I am missing? Help! I'm tired of jump starting!!
I took my van with the "clunk shift into reverse problem" to Dealer This morning and was informed by the dealer that Honda would replace the transmission if vehicle made a loud clunk while moving in reverse. As for clunking noise caused by shifting into or out of R with the vehicle standing still is currently considered normal by Honda. No explanation from Honda why some Ody out there have had this problem. Basically, I wasted a whole day for nothing! Anyway, I found a solution for the problem. just turn on the radio real loud before parking the car. Seriously, I am glad that I've purchased the 6yr/100,000 miles extended warrantee. As for now, the service order from my dealer stated "CUSTOMER STATES NOISE IN REVERSE" and their correction is "OK AT THIS TIME". Happy driving.
There is some normal "play" in the transmission especially noticable on hills which allows the van to settle downhill when you try to hold the van in place at a light in gear without brakes and also when you put it in "Park". Use of the brakes at a stoplight and the parking brake before you put the van in "Park" has eliminated this from happening in my van.
sfearing, I ALWAYS use the BRAKE to stop the van, and ALWAYS at COMPLETE STOP (with my right foot FIRMLY on the BRAKE) before and during shifting the gear into R. I am the only driver of my van and have NEVER abused the tranny in anyway. For all I know, the noise could be caused by something other than the transmission. I've also tried out the dealer's shuttle van, the only Ody available at the time, and it did not make the noise. I've seen the Honda TSB, and the noise was described as normal currenly. So, apparently Honda admits such a noise exist on some vehicles but not on others. In the mean time, I just learn to ignore it! Happy driving.
Since the dawn of time it seems. most Honda auto transmissions have made an engagement noise. The sound at first is either not there and or minor. Once it gets to the acceptable level it usally doesn't get any worse.However one thing that does increase the noise and leed to trouble is moving the selector from D to R or R to D while moving, even if it is ever so slightly, rolling shifts are bad on these transmissions.Not to mention the rocking when stuck in mud or snow,aghh thats a real bad thing.:) Applying the parking brake before moving it into Park is another way to decrease the noise.
What's the latest fix from Honda for that torque convertor noise? I'm talking about that dieseling or chattering when accelerating slightly under load in 4th at around 45-50MPH. This was a big topic here a while back and there were people whose vans were going to be the "guinea pigs" for Honda to experiment on - anyone know?
So far I have not seen any official word from them on this one. The last I checked they were looking into a counter weight thing and saying it wasn't in the trans but in some sort of vibration through the cable. I still have not had any in our area come in with the problem yet so I haven't checked lately.I know for some customers here on the board they were trying torque converters but that wasn't fixing all of them and the ones that it did make a differance on the noise was still there somewhat.I will try to remember to ask my rep when he comes back in or tech line if I am on the line with them..
Please forgive me if this exact topic was addressed 100 posts ago. I've been away from the forum for many months and can't bring myself to read hundreds and hundreds of posts. I see that everyone is still having the same old problems. I had the reverse clunk and missing luggage rack pieces ages ago. Here is my question. I now have 29,000 miles on my 99 EX and realize that the thing is a clunker. They have already replaced my transmission and both door latches. I've been through 2 or 3 roof rack pieces and 3 different rear window motors. As of right now my key fob doesn't work, left sliding door closes 1/2 of the time (sounds like it needs greasing and seems to catch on something 1/2 way), right sliding door won't close or open at all. rear compartment lid fell off, tcs rattles intermittently, trim falling off, etcetera, etcetera, etcetera. I have been tempted to research lemon laws but figured I'd be better off just getting an extended warranty. I saw a post earlier that said they would extend a warranty if there were transmission problems. Has anyone heard of Honda extending the warranty without charge for other problems. Any input you can provide is greatly appreciated. I'd rather not shell out $1000.00 if I can avoid it.
Purchased in Nov. 01. Continuing to resolve from beginning: 1.4th gear noise at 50mph. Last told no solution. Characteristic of vehicle. 2.Pulls right. Crown of road excuse. 3.Shimmy at 65 mph+. Dealer replaced one alleged defective wheel. No help. 4.Clunk in rear end going into reverse from park. Told characteristic of vehicle.
Continuing to attempt resolution through dealer. Any help will be appreciated.
Have you had any more problems with the TCS and CEL lights coming back on? Looks like I've solved the problem with mine, but I'll know more after I drive it for a few more days.
You may remember that after a myriad of lights coming on and resetting them with oftentimes many miles between their coming on again, I took my 99EX to my local repair shop who told me that the DTC's indicated a bad EGR valve.
I replaced the valve myself and saved somewhere around $100 (including labor for a 5 minute job that probably has 1 hour listed in the flat rate book) in the process by purchasing the valve from Trevor (Thank you, sir!), but the light continued to come on. I took it back to the garage and the error codes were the same. They, then, said that they needed to do a decarbonization purge of the intake manifold channels that send the recirculated exhaust gas back to the intake side. This would cost $120.
I purchased a $1.79 aerosol can of caruburetor cleaner, removed the EGR valve and spray purged it myself with the engine running at both low and high RPM's. (It was actually quite an exciting procedure.) That was Saturday AM and a couple of hundred miles ago. So far, the lights have not come back on. Looks like the trick was done.
Btw, my 99EX has 83,000 miles on it, so the warranty would not have covered this job, even if I would have considered letting the purchase dealer's ham handed techs touch it - which I would not have done, btw.
2000 Ex 21K miles: Recently over the last week, I have been smelling an anti-freeze "like" smell inside the cabin and also under the hood. Any ideas??? it smells like my early 80s toyota when the heater control valve went out.
I too have had a smell but I would say it was more like rubbing alcohol. It seemed associated with the A/C I have not had it for awhile. Has anyone else noticed the smell?
I've seen this topic posted here before, but can't find an answer......
My gas gauge reads E and the fuel light comes on after only 13-14 gallons have been used. Dealer says that is normal; odys have a big reserve. A 6-7 gallon reserve seems pretty high to me, though.
I would like to reap the benefits of having a large tank and not having to fill up as often as I did with my Civic. According to my own mpg estimates, I should be able to drive (conservatively) another 80-90 miles when my gas light comes on. That's assuming the odys really have a 19-20 gallon tank -- I've seen here that they may not.
SO -- is there really a 20 gallon capacity and is there really a 6-7 gallon reserve or is my gauge inaccurate? Any info. would be appreciated.
My observation, FWIW, is that Odyssey's have unusually shallow (Long and Wide, but not deep) gas tanks, which I believe also contributes to the half tank sloshing sound. The light on my 99 EX comes on with at least 5 gallons remaining. If you are very brave you can get very close to burning 20 gallons out of the tank, if you are driving in a straight line on relatively flat ground. However, if you stop on a grade, or park on a cross-slope you may find that the pickup tube in the tank is not where the remaining gas is. Four or five gallons can hide in the corners when the relatively flat tank is tipped one way or another. I fill shortly after the light comes on unless I'm traveling cross county on the Interstate, where I have pushed 100 miles after the light came on, then pumped 19.1 gallons in. (That only works when I'm alone in the van--my wife is not amused by these experiments--besides, she and the three-year-old did not come equipped with long range bladders! As a result most road trips include a gas stop at least every 200 miles, resulting in fill-ups of less than 8 gallons.
Happy driving! My dealer called regional engineers who said a technical service bulletin characterizes the clunk as "normal operation". My dealer says since they already replaced my transmission at 6 months due to another defect they will not replace it again - I guess there is only one defect per customer. I would appreciate any information you can provide on your experience (i.e. dealer name and location). I am talking with H of No Am to correct this situation. Happy driving!
Ditto. Lately I've taken my problems to Honda of North America customer relations (1-800-999-1009 or 301-990-2020) in addition to documenting repair attemts at the dealership. Cust. Rel. seemed receptive to extended warranty, however I already paid for it in '99 for peace of mind for a first year product. Ext. warranty is nice considering this vehicle is not aging well (it developed Reverse CLUNK at 20k on a new transmission as well as multiple door issues). Happy trails.
My reserve light (99EX) routinely comes on with about four gallons left in the tank. I have on several occasions pumped over 19 gallons; and once pumped 20.2 gallons, but I always top off to fill up the filler tube.
Hi auburn63, While checking the tranny fluid, I noticed that fluid levels seems to be of no visible differences whether tranny is hot or cold. Won't Honda ATF fluid expand while hot? On older car, there were usually two quite different ranges, cold and hot.
It has always been suggested to check the trans when at operating temp to INSURE a proper level check.When the trans has sat and cooled down it is possible for the level to be higher than when warm because the trans fluid will drain down some from the torque converter and clutch packs.But this does not always happen.Over the years I have filled them cold after a service and also have found the levels to be almost the same if not the same.Just remember for proper level reading check it at operating temp on level ground and engine off.
Glad I read your messages. I'd assumed that the tranny fluid is checked with the engine running while in "park" like GM cars that I've owned. Re-read the owner's manual and found I missed the " Shut off the engine." in step one. Haven't checked the tranny fluid level yet since the maintance schedule doesn't require it until 15K miles even for severe conditions.
Side note, I wonder if some of the tranny problems reported here are due to use of DEXRON ATF instead of Honda ATF (based on the strongly worded statement in the owner's manual). Probably not for the problems that crop up early. I wonder if Honda can tell if DEXRON was used to top of the tranny instead of Honda ATF. I would bet that the dealer service can't.
I am sure that if they wanted to test it in a lab they could tell the differance but not by looking at it or smelling it.As far as Dextron's compatability it can be used. We give the customer the choice in an effort to keep our prices compatable with other shops. The Honda fluid provides better shift characteristics than any other and insures that there will be no seal/"o" ring failures due to fluid. There are engagement noises on a Honda that are normal with or without Honda fluid but alot of shift quality issues can be curred with Honda fluid.
After 6 months of flawless performance, the passenger side power slider on our 2001 EX is acting up. It will not open if using the hand-held remote or the driver's control panel switch. It closes fine using the remotes, but to open it requires using one of the door handles (inside or exterior). It looks like it needs a latch adjustment. I'm taking it in next week to be looked at. Anyone had this happen? What was the fix? Thanks.
I haven't seen one act like yours yet, however if you have not done so already then you may want to clean the contacts on the junction switches and reset the computer in case it is out of sync. First take a pincil eraser and clean both sides of the junction switches (contact plates on the door and door jam). After they have been cleaned close the doors then remove fuse 13(should be a 7.5 fuse on the top row,3 or4 in)from the passenger side fuse box. Clock should go out if not then try another one. Keep it out for 15 secounds then reinstall it.Make sure power on the master switch is on.Then pull open the door with the outside handle(there will be no power operation yet) all the way open, then start to close it, about half the way close it should take over and close by itself. If you are not comfortable with this then just try the contact clean thing and see if that helps if not then just ask the service department to do the reset procedure.Good luck
I called the dealer to schedule the 22,500 service and mentioned a few problems that just cropped up within the last month. Over the phone, the dealer played "dumb" on the problems and said that they have not heard of them before. I know this will be a fun experience and was hoping someone could associate my problems with a Honda bulletin #, etc or some advice to make the process go easier.
1. Transmission loud clunk while backing up (started after 20K) 2. Both rear window kick-out motors squeal loudly. 3. power doors: passenger door alarms when I hit a bump or go over a speed bump at an angle vice straight on. I had the door recall done on the doors about 6 months ago. 4. When it is cold (under 40 degrees, I am in SC) the passenger rear door has an awful rattle and I traced it to the plastic molding. 5. Anti-freeze smell in the cabin and the engine compartment. 6. Windshield molding is bubbling up on the top.
Van has been essentially flawless up to about 20K.
Funny thing is...the motor is trying to open the door. It acts as if the door is locked (you know, whirr, click, beep, beep, beep). You have to physically pull on the door handle to "nudge" it off the latch. Go figure.
I just replaced the front brake pads on my '99 EX (30k miles) with Honda pads. Since then I have had three different sounds come from the brakes. My mechanic (not Honda) says they are "normal". Is that true?
1) The brakes sometimes squeak while braking. The mechanic said the new pads are carder than the original pads and that will cause them to squeak.
2) The brakes sometimes squeak (not as loudly) when not applying pressure to the brake pedal. The squeaking stops when I tap on the brake pedal. Mechanic said pads could lightly rub the rotor and that was OK.
3) The brakes sometimes groan when braking relatively hard. (not hard enough to engage ABS). The mechanic looked at the rotors and explained that the if the rotor gets hot and then is suddenly cooled (eg puddle) it gets tempered and grooves form on the rotor which causes the groan. He said that it was not a problem.
Mark, The trans noise has to be heard to be diagnosed correctly. If it is an engagement noise this is normal however if it is after engagement and while moving then it could be more. No SB Rear wing motors do get noisy and can be replaced for the noise. No SB Power doors beepimg over bumps. Is most likely due to bad contacts on the junction switches or ground problem. Yes there is a SB, the number I think is 99-075 but I am not sure on that number but I am sure there is one. Nothing common on the rattle other than possibly the door seals needing lubed Antifreeze smell maybe a slight coolant leak from the EGR cross over. There is a bulletin or service newsbut don't know the number. Nothing on the molding and no ideas..
Phil, If you can hear the motor trying then the door may be out of adjustment and sticking because of that.We have seen a few that were too far forward or too tight in the rear side. Good luck
bpauleen Honda brake pads are sometimes a bit squeaky due to the metalic compound there made of. The noise shouldn't be terrible. Did you apply the molycoat bettween the shims? Are the rotors glazed?These are a few things that may cause noise. The OEM pads are the same as the factory pads. They offer a softer pad to cut on noise but they don't last as long.Thats about all that I can think of for now...
Regarding to last item in post#482, I think I know what he is referring to; The piece of black plastic molding that cover the cowl does not fit well onto the windshield. My ody has been that way since new. As far as I know, most Ody, Civic, and Accord are all like that. I guess Honda should start looking for a better sub-contractor before consumers are starting nickpicking every fine details Happy driving
I've seen the "Bang in Reverse" TSB at my local dealer. They refused to give me a copy when I asked to keep it. Their reason was Honda prohibited them to release it to general public. I forgot to write down the number at the time. Would you happen to know the number? Thanks!
We've had many problems with our doors over the last 43K miles, but now a new one just started and I haven't seen anything on it in the last 200+ posts. The doors close, but when put into gear the alarm goes off. I've tried manually closing the doors, as well as the hatch, to no avail. The only way to shut the alarm off is to turn the doors to manual once they are closed. Our dealer found a defective part (not sure which one as my wife took it in), however it is on national back order' with no estimated date of delivery and 4 other odds waiting for the same part at this dealer. My questions are: Is this a safety hazard, i.e. are the doors prone to opening accidentally if not in manual operation mode? Is there anything I can try while I wait? Is there a way to disconnect the alarm? Thanks for any help, Dave
I just bought an EX 2001. Every time I accelerate from stop (about 5mph)forward or backwards, I hear "sloshing noise" and can feel something rolling when seated at the back. The Honda mechanic said this is gas from the fuel tank moving around. He said Honda will not fix this. Does anyone else experience this problem?
I just bought an EX 2001. Every time I accelerate from stop (about 5mph) forward or backward, I hear "sloshing"noise and can feel something rolling when seated at the back. The Honda mechanic said this is gas from the fuel tank moving around. He said Honda will not fix this. Does anyone else have this noise problem?
You may want to try and clean your junction switches with a pencil eraser. If that doesn't do it then either it is a door striker adjustment or a bad latch assy most likely.
sloshing It sounds as if you are talking about the gas sloshing back and forth and yes this is considered normal.
Trans, I will check but I don't remmeber an actual SB but maybe. I will look..
I have a 2000LX and the antifreeze was leaking. The repair order states "front and rear gaskets on water manifold leaking and thermostat gasket leaking". This vehicle uses an "o-ring" type gasket and it will leak if installed incorrectly. My son works at a local Honda dealer in new car get ready while attending college. He said the anti-freeze leak on this engine is not a wide spread problem but they do see a few every month. To me, a few every month is a wide spread problem! You could see where it was leaking on the top drivers side of the engine.
I just received a letter from Honda corporate. They ask about problems I was having and are supposed to put me with an engineer to help solve them. My main problem has been engine-transmission noise. I was interested in pursuing the lemon law. Has anyone tried that? Also, has anyone else been contacted?
I just installed crossbars on my 2001 ex. I followed the instructions exactly, placing them at the marks on the side rail. I now have wind noise to the extent that if I can't eliminate it I will remove the crossbars and install them only when I need them. Any one out there have this problem and how do you eliminate it or reduce it, short of removing them?
If the cross bars are installed in the wrong direction with the trailing edge forward instead of towards the rear then they will make a loud noise.If you look at them they are alot like a wing on a plane and need to be installed with the more rounded side forward.Take a close look at them and see if you see what I am talking about. I know there is another distinction but I can't remember it right now. I will post again when my senior moment passes....
Thanks for the info on getting the crossbar nose in the right direction. I turned them around and the wind noise is gone. Don't know why the instructions don't tell you to do that. Thanks again.
This is a posting to let everyone know that Honda has no clue how to fix the EX power door problems. I have give the dealer four tries(fifth one is scheduled for 3/5/01. They had a service bulletin to replace brackets and reground some wires. Nice try! Anyway, it seems that beeping doors and the inablility to fully close problems are becoming more and more common. Are we the field test for their design?????? I am taking legal action to have Honda refund my money. We shall see!
Comments
Further development: IMPORTANT!!
found out something interesting at the dealer today. I was inquiring about when to bring the car in for the first oil change and mentioned that the manual specifies 5w-20. The service rep said I must be mistaken because they just got the new specs from American Honda that said to use 5w-30 and he showed me the chart. I said I was not mistaken and showed them the manual to prove it (am I the only one who read it?). They called American Honda and after verifying with the engineers, they confirmed that the manual is correct (5w-20) and the spec sheet that was sent to the Honda dealerships was incorrect!! Amazing isn't it. Anyway, be sure to verify with your dealer that he changes the oil with 5w-20.
note: i posted this earlier on the xxx forum.Even Honda's website mentions 5w-30.
http://www.honda2001.com/owners/service_parts/faqs_fluids.html
Don't take my word for this, have your dealer call Honda.
I work at a Honda dealer in Eatontown, Nj. If you have come south before it is exit 105. Funny how almost everything in Jersey has an exit number.:).........
Masshoosier,
We have our oil pumped from overhead dispenser which carries 5w-30. The newer brand of Hondas are now asking for 5w-20 and we get ours from Honda but when we run out if we can't get it from a local store we use the 5w-30.I will check on what year they started and try to write back.
Anyway, I found a solution for the problem. just turn on the radio real loud before parking the car. Seriously, I am glad that I've purchased the 6yr/100,000 miles extended warrantee. As for now, the service order from my dealer stated "CUSTOMER STATES NOISE IN REVERSE" and their correction is "OK AT THIS TIME".
Happy driving.
I ALWAYS use the BRAKE to stop the van, and ALWAYS at COMPLETE STOP (with my right foot FIRMLY on the BRAKE) before and during shifting the gear into R. I am the only driver of my van and have NEVER abused the tranny in anyway. For all I know, the noise could be caused by something other than the transmission. I've also tried out the dealer's shuttle van, the only Ody available at the time, and it did not make the noise. I've seen the Honda TSB, and the noise was described as normal currenly. So, apparently Honda admits such a noise exist on some vehicles but not on others. In the mean time, I just learn to ignore it!
Happy driving.
Like they say, it ain't defect, then it must be a feature!
Happy driving
Applying the parking brake before moving it into Park is another way to decrease the noise.
1. They increase the warranty to 5 years 60,000 miles for first complaints
2. They replace the transmission when pushed by the customer
1.4th gear noise at 50mph. Last told no solution. Characteristic of vehicle.
2.Pulls right. Crown of road excuse.
3.Shimmy at 65 mph+. Dealer replaced one alleged defective wheel. No help.
4.Clunk in rear end going into reverse from park. Told characteristic of vehicle.
Continuing to attempt resolution through dealer. Any help will be appreciated.
Have you had any more problems with the TCS and CEL lights coming back on? Looks like I've solved the problem with mine, but I'll know more after I drive it for a few more days.
You may remember that after a myriad of lights coming on and resetting them with oftentimes many miles between their coming on again, I took my 99EX to my local repair shop who told me that the DTC's indicated a bad EGR valve.
I replaced the valve myself and saved somewhere around $100 (including labor for a 5 minute job that probably has 1 hour listed in the flat rate book) in the process by purchasing the valve from Trevor (Thank you, sir!), but the light continued to come on. I took it back to the garage and the error codes were the same. They, then, said that they needed to do a decarbonization purge of the intake manifold channels that send the recirculated exhaust gas back to the intake side. This would cost $120.
I purchased a $1.79 aerosol can of caruburetor cleaner, removed the EGR valve and spray purged it myself with the engine running at both low and high RPM's. (It was actually quite an exciting procedure.) That was Saturday AM and a couple of hundred miles ago. So far, the lights have not come back on. Looks like the trick was done.
Btw, my 99EX has 83,000 miles on it, so the warranty would not have covered this job, even if I would have considered letting the purchase dealer's ham handed techs touch it - which I would not have done, btw.
My gas gauge reads E and the fuel light comes on after only 13-14 gallons have
been used. Dealer says that is normal; odys have a big reserve. A 6-7 gallon
reserve seems pretty high to me, though.
I would like to reap the benefits of having a large tank and not having to fill up as
often as I did with my Civic. According to my own mpg estimates, I should be able to drive (conservatively) another 80-90 miles when my gas light comes on. That's
assuming the odys really have a 19-20 gallon tank -- I've seen here that they may
not.
SO -- is there really a 20 gallon capacity and is there really a 6-7 gallon
reserve or is my gauge inaccurate? Any info. would be appreciated.
While checking the tranny fluid, I noticed that fluid levels seems to be of no visible differences whether tranny is hot or cold. Won't Honda ATF fluid expand while hot? On older car, there were usually two quite different ranges, cold and hot.
Side note, I wonder if some of the tranny problems reported here are due to use of DEXRON ATF instead of Honda ATF (based on the strongly worded statement in the owner's manual). Probably not for the problems that crop up early. I wonder if Honda can tell if DEXRON was used to top of the tranny instead of Honda ATF. I would bet that the dealer service can't.
If you are not comfortable with this then just try the contact clean thing and see if that helps if not then just ask the service department to do the reset procedure.Good luck
1. Transmission loud clunk while backing up (started after 20K)
2. Both rear window kick-out motors squeal loudly.
3. power doors: passenger door alarms when I hit a bump or go over a speed bump at an angle vice straight on. I had the door recall done on the doors about 6 months ago.
4. When it is cold (under 40 degrees, I am in SC) the passenger rear door has an awful rattle and I traced it to the plastic molding.
5. Anti-freeze smell in the cabin and the engine compartment.
6. Windshield molding is bubbling up on the top.
Van has been essentially flawless up to about 20K.
Thanks in advance!
Funny thing is...the motor is trying to open the door. It acts as if the door is locked (you know, whirr, click, beep, beep, beep). You have to physically pull on the door handle to "nudge" it off the latch. Go figure.
1) The brakes sometimes squeak while braking. The mechanic said the new pads are carder than the original pads and that will cause them to squeak.
2) The brakes sometimes squeak (not as loudly) when not applying pressure to the brake pedal. The squeaking stops when I tap on the brake pedal. Mechanic said pads could lightly rub the rotor and that was OK.
3) The brakes sometimes groan when braking relatively hard. (not hard enough to engage ABS). The mechanic looked at the rotors and explained that the if the rotor gets hot and then is suddenly cooled (eg puddle) it gets tempered and grooves form on the rotor which causes the groan. He said that it was not a problem.
Does any of this make sense?
Thanks,
Brian
The trans noise has to be heard to be diagnosed correctly. If it is an engagement noise this is normal however if it is after engagement and while moving then it could be more. No SB
Rear wing motors do get noisy and can be replaced for the noise. No SB
Power doors beepimg over bumps. Is most likely due to bad contacts on the junction switches or ground problem. Yes there is a SB, the number I think is 99-075 but I am not sure on that number but I am sure there is one.
Nothing common on the rattle other than possibly the door seals needing lubed
Antifreeze smell maybe a slight coolant leak from the EGR cross over. There is a bulletin or service newsbut don't know the number.
Nothing on the molding and no ideas..
Phil,
If you can hear the motor trying then the door may be out of adjustment and sticking because of that.We have seen a few that were too far forward or too tight in the rear side. Good luck
bpauleen
Honda brake pads are sometimes a bit squeaky due to the metalic compound there made of. The noise shouldn't be terrible. Did you apply the molycoat bettween the shims? Are the rotors glazed?These are a few things that may cause noise. The OEM pads are the same as the factory pads. They offer a softer pad to cut on noise but they don't last as long.Thats about all that I can think of for now...
Happy driving
Is this a safety hazard, i.e. are the doors prone to opening accidentally if not in manual operation mode?
Is there anything I can try while I wait?
Is there a way to disconnect the alarm?
Thanks for any help,
Dave
sloshing
It sounds as if you are talking about the gas sloshing back and forth and yes this is considered normal.
Trans,
I will check but I don't remmeber an actual SB but maybe. I will look..
Good Luck.
Any one out there have this problem and how do you eliminate it or reduce it, short of removing them?
Thanks,
ED
Don't know why the instructions don't tell you to do that.
Thanks again.
I have give the dealer four tries(fifth one is scheduled for 3/5/01. They had a service bulletin to replace brackets and reground some wires. Nice try! Anyway, it seems that beeping doors and the inablility to fully close problems are becoming more and more common. Are we the field test for their design?????? I am taking legal action to have Honda refund my money. We shall see!