By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
Further development: IMPORTANT!!
found out something interesting at the dealer today. I was inquiring about when to bring the car in for the first oil change and mentioned that the manual specifies 5w-20. The service rep said I must be mistaken because they just got the new specs from American Honda that said to use 5w-30 and he showed me the chart. I said I was not mistaken and showed them the manual to prove it (am I the only one who read it?). They called American Honda and after verifying with the engineers, they confirmed that the manual is correct (5w-20) and the spec sheet that was sent to the Honda dealerships was incorrect!! Amazing isn't it. Anyway, be sure to verify with your dealer that he changes the oil with 5w-20.
note: i posted this earlier on the xxx forum.Even Honda's website mentions 5w-30.
http://www.honda2001.com/owners/service_parts/faqs_fluids.html
Don't take my word for this, have your dealer call Honda.
I work at a Honda dealer in Eatontown, Nj. If you have come south before it is exit 105. Funny how almost everything in Jersey has an exit number.:).........
Masshoosier,
We have our oil pumped from overhead dispenser which carries 5w-30. The newer brand of Hondas are now asking for 5w-20 and we get ours from Honda but when we run out if we can't get it from a local store we use the 5w-30.I will check on what year they started and try to write back.
Anyway, I found a solution for the problem. just turn on the radio real loud before parking the car. Seriously, I am glad that I've purchased the 6yr/100,000 miles extended warrantee. As for now, the service order from my dealer stated "CUSTOMER STATES NOISE IN REVERSE" and their correction is "OK AT THIS TIME".
Happy driving.
I ALWAYS use the BRAKE to stop the van, and ALWAYS at COMPLETE STOP (with my right foot FIRMLY on the BRAKE) before and during shifting the gear into R. I am the only driver of my van and have NEVER abused the tranny in anyway. For all I know, the noise could be caused by something other than the transmission. I've also tried out the dealer's shuttle van, the only Ody available at the time, and it did not make the noise. I've seen the Honda TSB, and the noise was described as normal currenly. So, apparently Honda admits such a noise exist on some vehicles but not on others. In the mean time, I just learn to ignore it!
Happy driving.
Like they say, it ain't defect, then it must be a feature!
Happy driving
Applying the parking brake before moving it into Park is another way to decrease the noise.
1. They increase the warranty to 5 years 60,000 miles for first complaints
2. They replace the transmission when pushed by the customer
1.4th gear noise at 50mph. Last told no solution. Characteristic of vehicle.
2.Pulls right. Crown of road excuse.
3.Shimmy at 65 mph+. Dealer replaced one alleged defective wheel. No help.
4.Clunk in rear end going into reverse from park. Told characteristic of vehicle.
Continuing to attempt resolution through dealer. Any help will be appreciated.
Have you had any more problems with the TCS and CEL lights coming back on? Looks like I've solved the problem with mine, but I'll know more after I drive it for a few more days.
You may remember that after a myriad of lights coming on and resetting them with oftentimes many miles between their coming on again, I took my 99EX to my local repair shop who told me that the DTC's indicated a bad EGR valve.
I replaced the valve myself and saved somewhere around $100 (including labor for a 5 minute job that probably has 1 hour listed in the flat rate book) in the process by purchasing the valve from Trevor (Thank you, sir!), but the light continued to come on. I took it back to the garage and the error codes were the same. They, then, said that they needed to do a decarbonization purge of the intake manifold channels that send the recirculated exhaust gas back to the intake side. This would cost $120.
I purchased a $1.79 aerosol can of caruburetor cleaner, removed the EGR valve and spray purged it myself with the engine running at both low and high RPM's. (It was actually quite an exciting procedure.) That was Saturday AM and a couple of hundred miles ago. So far, the lights have not come back on. Looks like the trick was done.
Btw, my 99EX has 83,000 miles on it, so the warranty would not have covered this job, even if I would have considered letting the purchase dealer's ham handed techs touch it - which I would not have done, btw.
My gas gauge reads E and the fuel light comes on after only 13-14 gallons have
been used. Dealer says that is normal; odys have a big reserve. A 6-7 gallon
reserve seems pretty high to me, though.
I would like to reap the benefits of having a large tank and not having to fill up as
often as I did with my Civic. According to my own mpg estimates, I should be able to drive (conservatively) another 80-90 miles when my gas light comes on. That's
assuming the odys really have a 19-20 gallon tank -- I've seen here that they may
not.
SO -- is there really a 20 gallon capacity and is there really a 6-7 gallon
reserve or is my gauge inaccurate? Any info. would be appreciated.
While checking the tranny fluid, I noticed that fluid levels seems to be of no visible differences whether tranny is hot or cold. Won't Honda ATF fluid expand while hot? On older car, there were usually two quite different ranges, cold and hot.
Side note, I wonder if some of the tranny problems reported here are due to use of DEXRON ATF instead of Honda ATF (based on the strongly worded statement in the owner's manual). Probably not for the problems that crop up early. I wonder if Honda can tell if DEXRON was used to top of the tranny instead of Honda ATF. I would bet that the dealer service can't.
If you are not comfortable with this then just try the contact clean thing and see if that helps if not then just ask the service department to do the reset procedure.Good luck
1. Transmission loud clunk while backing up (started after 20K)
2. Both rear window kick-out motors squeal loudly.
3. power doors: passenger door alarms when I hit a bump or go over a speed bump at an angle vice straight on. I had the door recall done on the doors about 6 months ago.
4. When it is cold (under 40 degrees, I am in SC) the passenger rear door has an awful rattle and I traced it to the plastic molding.
5. Anti-freeze smell in the cabin and the engine compartment.
6. Windshield molding is bubbling up on the top.
Van has been essentially flawless up to about 20K.
Thanks in advance!
Funny thing is...the motor is trying to open the door. It acts as if the door is locked (you know, whirr, click, beep, beep, beep). You have to physically pull on the door handle to "nudge" it off the latch. Go figure.
1) The brakes sometimes squeak while braking. The mechanic said the new pads are carder than the original pads and that will cause them to squeak.
2) The brakes sometimes squeak (not as loudly) when not applying pressure to the brake pedal. The squeaking stops when I tap on the brake pedal. Mechanic said pads could lightly rub the rotor and that was OK.
3) The brakes sometimes groan when braking relatively hard. (not hard enough to engage ABS). The mechanic looked at the rotors and explained that the if the rotor gets hot and then is suddenly cooled (eg puddle) it gets tempered and grooves form on the rotor which causes the groan. He said that it was not a problem.
Does any of this make sense?
Thanks,
Brian
The trans noise has to be heard to be diagnosed correctly. If it is an engagement noise this is normal however if it is after engagement and while moving then it could be more. No SB
Rear wing motors do get noisy and can be replaced for the noise. No SB
Power doors beepimg over bumps. Is most likely due to bad contacts on the junction switches or ground problem. Yes there is a SB, the number I think is 99-075 but I am not sure on that number but I am sure there is one.
Nothing common on the rattle other than possibly the door seals needing lubed
Antifreeze smell maybe a slight coolant leak from the EGR cross over. There is a bulletin or service newsbut don't know the number.
Nothing on the molding and no ideas..
Phil,
If you can hear the motor trying then the door may be out of adjustment and sticking because of that.We have seen a few that were too far forward or too tight in the rear side. Good luck
bpauleen
Honda brake pads are sometimes a bit squeaky due to the metalic compound there made of. The noise shouldn't be terrible. Did you apply the molycoat bettween the shims? Are the rotors glazed?These are a few things that may cause noise. The OEM pads are the same as the factory pads. They offer a softer pad to cut on noise but they don't last as long.Thats about all that I can think of for now...
Happy driving
Is this a safety hazard, i.e. are the doors prone to opening accidentally if not in manual operation mode?
Is there anything I can try while I wait?
Is there a way to disconnect the alarm?
Thanks for any help,
Dave
sloshing
It sounds as if you are talking about the gas sloshing back and forth and yes this is considered normal.
Trans,
I will check but I don't remmeber an actual SB but maybe. I will look..
Good Luck.
Any one out there have this problem and how do you eliminate it or reduce it, short of removing them?
Thanks,
ED
Don't know why the instructions don't tell you to do that.
Thanks again.
I have give the dealer four tries(fifth one is scheduled for 3/5/01. They had a service bulletin to replace brackets and reground some wires. Nice try! Anyway, it seems that beeping doors and the inablility to fully close problems are becoming more and more common. Are we the field test for their design?????? I am taking legal action to have Honda refund my money. We shall see!