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Comments
My 2000 LX had a little run in with a deer. This suicidal dear ran into the front right panel of my van, but it is fixed now.
The problem is my drivers side window is the only one that will open and close. The other three windows don't work from the switches on either side of the car. From what I think I read in the users manual, it says that the three windows are controlled by 3 different fuses, so I doubt it is that. Has anyone ever heard of this?
I don't know whether to ask the body work shop, maybe they could have caused the problem? Or the dealer in that it could be a warranty issue.
Also, two of the lines on my defroster don't work. The dealer said it was from damage to the window and it is not warranty work??? They said that I should get a window repair place to try to fix the lines. If they did the work, it would be much more expensive.
Impressions?
Amy
As to the rear window defroster wires, you can find do-it-yourself repair kits in most auto supply stores.
Is this a known problem? I need some info before I go to the dealer on monday. It is very frustrating considering I bought this model just for this feature..
Speaking of the same page, has anyone seen 2k1ody?
*:o))
I haven't decided what to do about the defroster lines. I don't remember hitting anything against it... except for normal slam the door things.
Amy
www.honadsuv.com
click on "Under the Hood" over on the right
then click on "Rear Nozzle Upgrade" on the left.
I planned on seeing how much similarity there is with the Ody. I was going to try once winter was over (and my wife not around), but since winter has decided to dump on us today, it'll be a couple more weeks.
Perhaps 2k1ody could start there.
I have already got the dealer to replace my tires and put on alloy wheels on my 2000LX. But, I intend to have them fix this issue too. Luckily we purchased the 100,000 warranty. I am also having them replace my molding on the right passenger sliding door. It sticks so badly that my children and sometimes I can't even open it. Finally, does replacing the rear motors really fix the loud squeaking? or are they all like that.
Thanks to everyone for all of their comments, especially auburn63. Whoever you are - I consider you the guardian angel of problematic odd owner. (smile)
Sorry, and thanks
1. New Transmission. After 3 visits regarding reverse clunk, dealer responds!
2. Creaking in front suspension. 4 visits. Lubricated strut bushings twice, now creaking is much worse.
3. Sliding Door rattles. 4 visits. Adjusted twice, new seals just installed. Not much better.
4. Clunk in front suspension. 4 visits, several bolt tightenings later, still exists.
5. Vibration in steering wheel. 5 visits. 4 wheel balances, 3 full alignments, new Michelin tires, new rims, problem is diminished but not gone.
6. Grinding in the front brakes. Told this is normal?
Note that all these problems occurred between 4K and 7K (vehicle now has 7K).
I think I have a case for the Ohio Lemon Law, anyone have any thoughts on this? Have these problems been engineered out of this vehicle for 2001?
SCMelvin
This one is a bit easier, first it is easier to do this with both doors shut. Then remove fuse 13 a 7.5 fuse in the passenger side under dash fuse box.(the clock should go out if that is the right fuse).Leave out for 15 secounds and then re-install. Now with main power switch on dash on, go to each door one at a time and manually pull the door open all the way, then start to pull it closed, about half way closed the door will(should)take over and finish closing itself. Repeat for the other door.
As said before an eraser works well to clean the contacts in the junction switches.Good luck
Unlike other major auto manufacturers(Ford,GM,Toyota,Maza,Nissan ...,) Honda automatic transaxle does not employ planetary gear system; instead, it use a pararell shaft system similar to manual transaxle. Are there any technical advantages of such a design? or just for the cost saving, perhaps?
During reverse engagement with this system, the countershaft reverse gear is engaged by the movement of the reverse selector onto reverse selector hub by a shift fork activated by a servo valve. Is the reverse selector hub being used as a manual transaxle synchronizer in this case? Perhaps the reverse engagement noise that I've heard is caused by the impact of reverse selector onto reverse selector hub. I am still wondering why the noise only occur if the D4 is engaged first.
Onto towing an Ody, Honda warns that gear should be engaged at N from D4, not from R, or damages to transaxle will occur. Is this because the gears are meshed differently At N eventhough all clutchs are released?
Thanks you for your comments!
Happy driving
Can someone give me an answer to the easy question
Thanks
Pat
Internaly they are set up alot like a manual trans is but the clutch packs don't do as good of a job as a syncro does.Most of the engagement noise is because of a lack of a syncro of some sort and the straight cut of a reverse gear.They don't always line up and as the gear is trying to engage it sometimes loads up until it pops in.In the older ones it would make a bad ratcheting sound as it played roulet falling into gear : ).
Don't know the answer the the towing question so i will have to check out the book and if I remember I will ask tech line..
Thanks,
Thanks again for the quick response! Last few weeks, I've learned quite a bit about the inner working of honda automatic transaxle in my Ody by studying the service manual and asking and reading your various posts. I hope you won't mind if I keep bothering you with detail technical questions in the future. It is hard to find someone with knowledges on inner working of honda vehicles. Your involvements have provided great services to this forum. Thanks!
Well, it's time for me to trace that hydraulic circuits
Happy driving
Thanks in advance.
1) Right seat belt in 3rd row does not lock up after it has been pulled out all the way. (This should be added to the checklist)
2) Cannot shift into D3, 2, or 1.
3) Battery inexplicably went dead.
After waiting nearly 5 months and getting the van in the wrong color I'm somewhat upset. But I'm still hopeful that these problems can be easily corrected.
Now one issue is that the dealer is 50 miles away and my wife does not want to drive that distance with our 2 month old. There are Honda dealers closer.
What's the experience of bringing the Ody to a dealer other than the one you bought from for warranty work?
204.7 fillup 2 10 01 14.8 gal 13.83 mpg
227.4 fillup 2 17 01 15.84 14.35 mpg
219.8 fillup 2 25 01 14.89 14.76 mpg
207.5 fillup 3 4 01 15.25 13.6 mpg
162.8 fillup 3 9 01 11.20 14.53 mpg
234.9 fillup 3 11 01 12.34 highway all 19.03 mpg
THe March 4th through the 9th I swapped with a friends 2000 Odyssey and with her driving mine it got 14.53 and with me driving hers I got 19.8 mpg. This is in Florida it hasn't been windy and it's flat weather mostly in the 70s and 80s. I checked my tire pressure and they are at 35 psi.
The estimated mpg is suppose to be 18 to 25 mpg. The best I got was 19.03 and that was ALL highway.
Anybody got any suggestions??
You wrote in post #521 "Power slidding door by auburn63 Mar 09, 2001 (04:57 pm) Usally when the slidding door stops working it is either because it set a code or became out of sync( got confused). If it set a code you may want to access this before resetting.If you like doing your own work then I can try to help you access the code but it can be tricky."
Please explain how I can access the codes, I should be able to handle the tricky part. I have modified the doors to be able to open them when the van is stopped put not in park. I havn't had any problems but I'd like to make sure they are not sending any problems codes Thanks, Gene
The problems you are having are unusual, not being able to shift into D3-2-1. What this a problem that you noticed when you picked up the van?
As far as the battery going dead, I bet the interior lighting was left on for a period of time.
Are you pulling the lever all the way to the steering wheel as you move it downward? If you do, it wont move any further than D4. You have to let it restore toward the dash before it will move any further.
Door code
1. Turn key on and wait 15 sec.
2. Turn master switch for doors off
3. Push and hold either the open or close button
to one of the doors, while still holding
down on the button turn the master switch
to the on position for 1 sec. then off again
then 1 sec after turning off let go of the
open/close button.
4. If you did it correctly the power door light on the dash will come on and stay on for like 3 sec then go off. Or if there is a code it will flash a code at you in long and short blinks.If you didnt time it all right or didn't do it correctly then there will be no light come on..
5. Repeate for the other door..
Thanks,
In message #536 Brakes and door codes by auburn63 Mar 12, 2001 (07:17 pm)
you wrote
"Door code
1. Turn key on and wait 15 sec.
2. Turn master switch for doors off
3. Push and hold either the open or close button
to one of the doors, while still holding
down on the button turn the master switch
to the on position for 1 sec. then off again
then 1 sec after turning off let go of the
open/close button.
4. If you did it correctly the power door light
on the dash will come on and stay on for like
3 sec then go off. Or if there is a code it
will flash a code at you in long and short
blinks. If you didnt time it all right or
didn't do it correctly then there will be no
light come on..
5. Repeate for the other door.. "
Is there a place I can find what the code meanings are for the different "long and short light blinks" ?
or can you provide them?
Thanks for your help,
Gene
We've even called Honda and they say there is nothing wrong. I've stopped other Odyssey owners and they all get MUCH better mileage. What can be wrong!
hammock2 - I've read numerous posts that the low fuel light comes on around 14 gallons. I can attest to that. I think from what I've read the tank is quite shallow and that there isn't anything you can do.
popping noise,
I would think that the noise you are hearing is probably comming from the front sway bar links. I have had several go bad and they are easiest checked on the ground and rocking the top of the tire back and forth hard enough to move the van.Once you hear the noise feel the links to see if it is popping.
Please, the list of possible codes.
Another question: My door locks don't lock automatically when I turn on the engine nor do they unlock automatically when I turn off the engine. My other vehicles have had this feature. Is something wrong? I had the Honda remote entry/ alarm installed on my LX - maybe bad installation.
Sorry, but the door locks aren't automatic. One of those silly things that Honda didn't think was worth doing. For a family hauler, you'd thing that would be a no brainer, but obviously Honda doesn't agree.
If the remote entry is after market, I suppose it could have an optional auto-lock. Ask the person who did the install.
I didn't mean to give the impression that I thought the idea of auto locks is silly. I don't. I think Honda's not including them is silly, especially in a family car. Sorry for the confusion.