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Thanks.
http://www.handaccessories.com/odyssey05.html
(click on Exterior and scroll down)
Evidently you need a transmission cooler, pow. steering cooler, wire harness and air duct modification. 1K parts and labor might be reasonable considering what must be done.
Of course, I've heard reports that the Sienna will sag a fair amount in the rear when towing so that ground clearance becomes a concern. I don't know if the same can be said of the Ody or not.
The way Honda builds vehicles doesn't allow for pick and choose options. So they either have to build them all with a tow package, or none. You'll notice on the Ridgeline, they all come with a typical tow pacakge, except the actual hitch. It's a dealer installed option.
I imagine the relatively small number of folks that want to tow with a minivan would be the biggest reason not to offer it on all the vans. It would add $$ to the price that most folks would get zero value from.
The tow package on my Silverdao was a few hundred dollars. Included heavy-duty cooling, tranny cooler, and hitch. Honda just doesn't offer stand alone options. I'm not fond of it myself, but it seems to work for them.
Steve
I have an 01 EX with 54K Mileage.
Last week I first noticed a problem with transmission slipage. It doesn't happen all the time, perhaps 2-3 times for every hour of driving. This started 9 days ago, or about 200 miles.
I checked the fluid level and it was just barely up to the bottom dot.
As a temporary fix, my wife wants me to add some Dextron III.
I can then order some ATF-Z1 online for a possible transmission flush.
I did have the vehicle go through the 30K check which should have included a transmission flush.
I no longer utilize my closest Honda service department after they tried to upsell me for a small AC problem ($380 when all I needed was my exhaust line cleared which I had done for less then $100).
So my plan is...
1- Add a bottle of Dextron.
2- Order a case of the ATF-Z1.
3- Take the case to local mechanic (who can be trusted) to flush the transmission.
4- Wait and see if the issue goes away.
Because I had the tranny flushed at 30K, I think the odds of a flush damaging the transmission at this point, seems low. Does this board agree?
What type of transmission problems are covered under the warranty?
In case I have to take it to a different Honda service deaprtment, are there any signs that I'm being ripped off?
I appreciate your responses.
If you just had a fluid change, why contaminate the system w/ DexronIII.
Go to a different Honda dealer, buy a quart of the Honda ATF. You can call ahead to get the price. I bought a qt for the wife of a friend while he was away and was surprised that it was not more expensive (coming from a dealer). Even if they hit you for $10 for a qt, that's cheaper than replacing it all. (Probably less than the freight).
Secondly, if the fluid level is btwn the marks it should be acceptable. However, the accuracy of these things isn't super precise, and perhaps under certain conditions, your level is a tad low. I'd get it to a level right btwn the marks -but make sure you check it as instructed, including getting the tranny warm first.
Overfilling can cause foaming which could lead to similar or worse problems.
If after getting the fluid level directly btwn the marks under the specified conditions, you still find a prblm, bring it in to the dealer.
good luck
Choose Honda
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Most of the radios shown have a link to installation instructions.
After the last fillup, it started smelling like gasoline. Everywhere around the car. Inside. Within 50 feet of the car.
So instead of parking it in my garage, I leave it outside.
Then, the next time I drive it, the outside of the car doesn't smell like gasoline, but the inside does. After driving around, it doesn't smell as strong.
I think theres a small hole in the gas tank, large enough for the smell to come out, but not big enough for the gasoline to come pouring out. Theres no liquid on the ground, or in the garage the one night I parked it there.
What do you guys think it is?
Is it possible that you over-filled it?
If not, it could be a prblm w/ the charcoal cannister or the lines to/from.
Did you notice if the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) or CheckEngine lamp came on? If the MIL is on, then it's possibly a bad fuel cap, disonnected or damaged vapor hose from tank to underhood, or a prblm w/ the cannister and/or it's valves.
Does anybody have any ideas as to what is the cause of this whistle - and more specifically - how can I get this to be demonstrated while the vehicle is at Honda for service? Any thoughts would be appreciated as it about drove me crazy last night. The local Honda dealership was less than impressive while in for service in September. Don't think just stopping by in the rain would work.
How much would it cost to fix it?
The van did fail emission testing a few weeks ago, and it didn't pass until the third try.
Was the emissions test a tailpipe sniff, or an OBDII readout? If they hooked a connector to a socket under your dash, they were reading out the stored codes and readiness indicators from the on board diagnostics system. If things get bad enough (as determined by sensor data), the MIL (malfunction indicator light) will come on. But there are a number of conditions that the computer will log as problems, but they do not cross a threshold required to light the lamp.
Failing the test recently might have been the first indicator that the vapor recovery system was in trouble. You might want to get a readout prior to going to the dealer, and see if the van knows that it has a problem, and what it is! Try a national autoparts chain store like Autozone. Many do this as a customer service at little or no charge.
Steve
Any opinion will be appreciated.
Vitaliy
Has anyone been told how to fix this problem? Thanks.
For all that, the price isn't too out of line. The one thing that looks odd is the "all gaskets and seals". This I wouldn't expect to see, unless they just mean the ones that need to be done when they do the other work (like the timing belt cover gasket, water pump gasket, etc.), which of course shoud be expected.
If the timing belt is due, and you haven't done the other stuff, then it should be done. And certainly put on a new water pump and drive belts while it is apart.
Actually, I just noticed that you didn't list a tranny fluid flush, that I would expect to be included at this time, unless it was recently done otherwise.
You might want to do a brake fluid flush and change while you are at it if it hasn't been done.
Again, not required to do some of this, but it is good preventive mantenance if you plan to keep it for a long time.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Yes, it may last another 50,000 miles or more. It may also start leaking next month and all of that labor will have to be paid a second time.
If there was only maybe around a $100 difference....it may be better to wait.
I also asked about how many miles Honda water pumps usually last....I would think much longer than 100,000 miles. Doesn't a water pump go for around $300-$400 ?: If it doesn't start leaking in that 50,000 miles thats 300-400 bucks down the drain.
How much would it cost to fix? If its over a certain amount I may just trade it in on a new van. (Either a Sienna or Odyssey)
Thanks for your help so far.
Once the timeing belt (and the front end of the engine are exposed), generally a good idea to replace all the small and wear item parts (guides, seals, etc.).
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Tough call on the waterpump change. I've never done it when doing a timing belt, and gotten away with it. My feeling is if you did coolant on time and it looks clean, they should last the life of the car. Of course, having said this, I will have to eat crow on my next attempt! Same with seals. I would do the crank, but probably skip the cams (less stress, less likely to leak prematurely). Everything is off the crank so it is a natural, but the cams still have pulleys.
Ok, assume you do the pump - you are part of the way towards a coolant change. In the old days, they did a 5-6 step process using a chemical flush that was labor intensive. Today they sometime only do a drain and refill, or at minimum, a water flush. The net is lower time and materials cost.
So all told, I would say about $650 is right. $900 sounds excessive. But hey, it is just a guess....
Steve
Steve
Please pardon my barging-in on this discussion, but since you showed some interest in the Entourage thread a while back, I just thought you might like to know that the plans are back on-line again for a second- or third-quarter launch. [Source.]
Later!
Mike