Well it has happened to me. In a left turn the warn "beep" warning started until I stopped turning. I guess I will have to have it looked at. Did somebody mention that there is a service Bulletin out there?
I had a 99 EX for 18 months. It too experienced the pooping noise in the front end and a humming noise the dealer said might be the bearings. It turned out to not be the bearings but a vibration in some strut support. I have the problem looked at 8 times in 6months before I filed a claim under the lemon law. Honda was forced to refund all my money. It's a shame because we really liked the vehicle but they couldn't fix it. Also, I had alot of problems with American Honda who tried unsuccessfully to deny the claim. They were rude and denied that "ANY" problems were found with the Odyssey.
Under the California Lemon Law, which I just won my case, the car was only allowed to be out of service 30 days in the warranty period. That or 4 times in for service on the same problem. You've obviously exceeded both of those requirements. File the claim. Mine was on a 99 and Honda was denying any problems with the vehicle. A panel of 4 judges agreed with me.
I've read through most of the posts here and have seen many of you with the same problems I had, mine was a 99 EX. Alot of you also have different problems. Some of heard from American Honda and have been given extended warranties. I filed a claim under the Calif. Lemon Law and got Honda to refund all my money when the vehicle had 52k miles on it. There were/are problems with the Odyssey that Honda is denying but that all of us have experienced. It's a shame because I really liked the vehicle but Honda is not addressing all the problems. If anyone would like to contact me about my experiences you can email me at Michael.Saitta@disney.com. Good Luck to everyone already in arbitration.
sarmeli, I too am getting poor gas mileage similar to you ( about 14 to 16 city and 19 to 21 highway). I have an 01 EX with about 2.5k miles. I've been told this is within the norm and that it could get better when the engine gets broken in. It might be getting slightly better but no where near what its supposed to get. It was also suggested that I might have s stuck thermostat not allowing the engine to come to operating temperature soon enough. This is not the case for me. Its kind of disapointing since the fuel economy was one of the things that sold us on this vehicle verses a large SUV. Otherwise this is the thing that has caused me concern about the vehicle. At this point I don't know if it is worth having the dealer try and do something, they could actually mess with something and give me greater problems. I'll let you know if I find out something, please do the same.
chaucer - As for as not being able to shift into D3, D2 or D1 - been there done that. Its an odd shifer movement and it's not like other cars I've owned. I bet if you just pull down on the shitfer in the circular motion that it travels it will work. Don't pull it towards you or it will not go past D4.
When someone brings an Ody in complaining of sliding door rattles, does Honda outline a sequence of adjustments to follow in order to eliminate the rattle or do you simply "wing it"? What do you find causes most rattles in the sliding doors? Is it because something is loose inside the door such as a linkage or wiring harness, or are most rattles caused by improper door adjustment? Would like to know where the best place to start is in eliminating an annoying rattle in my drivers side slider. Thanks in advance!
I'm not a Honda rep, but I can tell you how to eliminate a common cause of a door rattle. When the door is open, look near the back edge on the inside face for a small rubber bumper. Holding a piece of paper in front of that bumper, close the door, letting it shut on the paper. Pull the paper out; if it slides out easily, there's your problem. It should be making contact with the van; you'll see a small raised area in the sheet metal where it's supposed to touch. The bumper has coarse threads cut into it & can be screwed out until you get a good contact. It takes less time to adjust than it will to drive to your dealer. Hope this helps.
Thanks guys. I figured the receivers would probably be the place to start. I'll attempt the "floating adjustment" as you suggested. I'll go ahead and lubricate the seals with silicone also---can't hurt!
treyh1--I located the rubber bumper you're talking about. I'll give that a try also. Thanks again!
Seems like they covered almost everything before I got here. The things we find most is the the bumper stop that treyh1 talked about,the seal lube that ckon mentioned(except, Shin Etsu greese works best), and one that wasn't mentioned. We find alot of the inside door handles making alot of the rattle noises.They fit loose on the door so we pop the clip, pull the handle off and put strip caulk or tape over the spline and put the handle back on.Also when necesary adjusting the door in a tad tighter(at the striker) will also cure some noises.Good luck
After an afternoon of adjusting and test drives my annoying rattle is still there. I've now narrowed it down to the interior door handle linkage inside the door. When I tap on the interior door panel with my knuckles, I hear a metallic rattle, but when I push the door handle forward tensioning the linkage, the rattle dissapears. Passenger slider doesn't do this, nor is the handle itself loose on the splines as Auburn suggested. I haven't pulled the door panel off yet, but I'm willing to bet there are rod linkages that run horizontally across the door that ride in plastic guide clips, and one rod is not clipped in it's guide. Chuck, since you have had your door panels off, does this sound possible? Any tricks to removing the slider door panel? Dorhn
2000 Ody LX. Have had many of the usual problems (pulling to right, sticking doors, rattling doors) as well as a few that don't seem so common (most notably the terrible creaking sound when the hatch is opened).
This week the brakes started chirping when stopping. I stuck my finger in to get a feel for how much pad is left. Not much...definitely less than 1/4 inch...probably about 1/8 from the feel.
So...we have just under 15k miles on the van. Seems a bit odd to have to replace the pads already. Typically we seem to get double that mileage (or more) out of a set of pads on our Accord.
Anyone know if this is normal for the Odyssey? Is it normal for minivans? I assume this is not covered under any warranty issues, right? Normal wear and tear?
Thanks for any info. No, I don't love this van...I want to, but I just can't when it seems like it's in for some kind of service or problem every month.
I have 34K miles om my 99 Ex. I still have the original brakes. Unless you do a lot of panic stops, it sounds like you may have a problem. I'd have the dealer check out your brake system.
Well it looks like one of the power door problems may have struck our new EX. I can't seem to get the doors to rebound at all. When I lean into them while opening they literally push me out of the way. I was under the impression that they would rebound under those conditions. I'm not willing to insert myself or some other object to see at this point. Any thoughts?
I've entered and asked questions before, but without much success of being responded to! However, I find all of your chats and questions useful. I want to share that I now have 29480 on my 00LX purchased in 11/99. I have had my tires replaced, new alloy wheels put on, and today I am getting a new transmission in response to the clunking after going in reverse for a short distance. The tech was with me and it happened. They tried a couple of things to fix it, it didn't work so their tech line states that they should put a new one in. Thanks to all of you good folks, I was able to document my problems going in, and I went and got some TSB numbers that might be associated with the problems and now they are fixing it. I'm also having the seal replaced on my passenger side sliding door due to severe sticking. I hope that it works. I'm nervous about the transmission replacement but I purchased the 100K warranty. They always give me a car for free and I'm having a hard time being upset about all of these problems. Writing down and/or telling people all of the things that have gone wrong make me second guess the Honda decision; but frankly, then I think about all of the work they have done without me even once losing my temper! or begging for something. I do bring my service writer and technicians donuts on occasion. That may be helping. Am I crazy to still be recommending the Odyssey or what?
Well it looks like one of the power door problems may have struck our new EX. I can't seem to get the doors to rebound at all. When I lean into them while opening they literally push me out of the way. I was under the impression that they would rebound under those conditions. I'm not willing to insert myself or some other object to see at this point. Any thoughts?
1- the rear window washer is apparently designed to "dribble" and not spray, so that it can be used when driving without the spray being blown away before it hits the glass. 2- I have had cold weather starting problems on ocassion, once had the dealer tow the car. Engine would turn over fine, but would not start. When towed to dealer, van started fine. I was glad I aske the tow truck driver to try to start it (so I knew I wasn't nuts). Dealers advice is to wait a few seconds after turning the switch on before engaging the starter, allowing the system to boot up and the fuel pump to fully charge the lines (????) Anyone else?
My early 2000EX, 22K miles, is at the dealer, TODAY, for the clunk while in reverse problem. They stated that there are no TSBs issued for this problem and that this is the first Odyssey transmission problem they have ever heard of. The dealer is quite large and they have 3 service writers on staff. Of course, they could not re-create the loud clunk. How do I educate the dealer and/or why are they playing dumb??
My Honda dealer recommends Ppwer Flush everytime I I go for service. He said I should do it every 15K miles or so. This power flush is supposed to clean the engine with 'The EnviroLution Engine Life-Guard System'. This flush will clean the every part whereever engine oil reaches and removes all contaminated oil. Normal oil change would cost me $21, but this flush will cost me $120(inclusive of oil/filter change). Is this worth the money? Does it really help? Has anybody done it and noticed the difference? Pl. reply me... Thank you.
Hi amarmistry, I think it's a great idea and I plan to have it done on my van, once it hits 500,000 miles. Before that, well, I can flush out my own wallet just fine, thanks.
Seriously, imho, so long as you change your oil/filter as recommended in your owner's manual, there should be no reason to flush out "contaminated oil" or "sludge". Steve Host Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
Did they promise to kiss you during and still love you afterwards?
Seriously, what a Scam! This is a Honda dealer? I've noticed that my non-dealer mechanic (Goodyear Tire Store) has been pushing this for ATF changes. I didn't bite. I'm coming up on my 2nd ATF change soon (90k miles), and will do it myself. Cost = 3 qts of Honda ATF at about $4.50/qt.
Does anyone have a bouncing (more like fluttering) RPM while driving. This can be on a hill or a flat road. The RPM bounces between 1500 and 2000. My dealer has had the car for a week. They state their testing shows inconclusive results. They are saying this "fluttering" may be a "characteristic" of the van. I know 4 other Odyssey owners and none of them have experienced this. The dealer did talk to me about the "clunk" in reverse that has been a problem with the Odyssey, fortunately not mine. Please let me know if anyone is experiencing this.
There has been some discussion about the motors in the rear windows. Mine were very loud. We had the motors replaced. They were better at first, but are back to the original sound. Oh well!
If your still around here are the codes. 1 is door switch circuit or dcu(door control unit) 2 is remote control circuit or dcu 11 open switch circuit or dcu 12 switch circuits or dcu 13 remote control or dcu 14 handle circuit/switch or dcu 15 keyless reciever unit or dcu 21 rev sensor circuit or dcu 22 same 23 dcu 24 rev sensor lines or dcu 25 slide motor problem,dcu or ground problem. We see alot of code 25 and there is a service bulletin out for its repair that has us do some adjustments and ground improvements.Have not seen any other codes as of yet.Of course there are more extensive possible sources within the code itself but these are the basics that are in the manual.
After some researching, I believe that I've found the cause of the reverse engagement noise from D4. It's coming from the "counter-shaft reverse selector" smashing the counter-shaft reverse gear while trying to engage into it from counter-shaft 4th gear. The reason for noise to occur only from D4 is "reverse selector" being moved only when direction is changed. This also explains why Honda advice when towing an Ody with the front wheel on ground, the van needs to be shifted to D4 first, then into N. Otherwise, reverse gear would be engaged insteads of the 4th gear by reverse selector. I've noticed that neither counter-shaft reverse gear nor counter-shaft 4th gear have synchros to ease the engagements. Due to this particular "BAD??" design, therefore, slight movement of countershaft while shifting from D to R or R to D will cause extreme loud engagement noises and will do major damage to both set of gear. Also, the infamous "Bang in Reverse" is caused by - guess what? - "reverse selector" not fully engaging the counter-shaft reverse gear. The TSB# is A00-065, issued by Honda on 8/22/2000. Well, I think I have done enough analysis on the Honda automatic transmission. My wife is really upset because she think I spent too much time with the Ody! BTW, my next car will be from Honda, and it will have a manual transmission!
I know this may not be in the right 'group' but you're the ones I want to ask.... With all the problems you've had with the vehicles and or the service departments would you still recommend the Ody or no? It's so hard to decide when you look at the safety ratings compared to the other minivan's on the market but even on the 2001 Ex model we looked at yesterday at the dealers one of the rear doors wasn't responding properly. Thanks in advance!
Ok, I tried the paper towel role in the door and it did rebound as advertised. I'm a bit surprised that it would only work in the last 12 inches of travel. As far as I know most people are wider than 12 inches! What happens in a case where you might be caught in the door. Does it crush you down to 12 inches before rebounding? I don't think I'll conduct this particular test .
So far we are very pleased with the Odyssey. No pulling left or right, no tranny noises, I don't even hear the infamous gas sloshing.
I had the tranny replaced and so far I haven't noticed the bang. There are two TSB's associated with the Bang in Reverse that I found. One is 00065 and the other is 280100. I hope that helps you.
My thoughts on this design is that the most damage would occur with the smaller obstructions ie legs and arms. The door only travels about 30". My understanding is that there is a learning curve the doors go through on every cycle to adapt to van being on a hill (the motors work harder having to push the door uphill).
Basically to doors begin to move, determine power required, then try to close. There isn't alot of time left for obstruction detection and reversal.
That 12" is plenty for my 4YO son - he's pretty skinny. Me on the other hand....Besides, I don't think the door would really crush anyone.
I would guess that all power doors operate on a scheme similar to this.
First let me tell you that I have just posted this to the general Ody group (Odyssey XXX) but then I thought that this group might also be helpful. So, please don't be upset if you see this posting twice, I think it is in fact appropriate for both groups.
This is my first posting here although I have lurked for some time but I could never contribute. Would like your opinion now.
We picked up our LX today. Went over the very helpful checklist published here and did not find any problem listed (no clunking in reverse, no pull to right etc). HOWEVER, there is one problem: The salesman told us that there had been some transport damage: somebody dropped a chain on the van during loading or unloading. He (and the sales manager whom he brought in when I started to ask questions) said that it was purely cosmetic and that it had been completely repaired. On my request, he showed (and gave) me the copy of the repair bill ($650.-, mainly labor for painting plus replacement of a 'molding' and a 'garnish,' the latter supposedly being the rubber strip over the roof carrier attachment).
The paint job was certainly done very nicely; I could not find any paint line. The only problem I could see is that the rubber molding around the windshield is peeling up slightly from behind (about 2 mm) where it meets the rubber strip over the roof carrier attachment (garnish')). The sales manager said it should not make any problems since 'the natural movement of rain' is from the front of the car and that I should simply avoid spraying water across the roof from behind when I wash the car to avoid water entry. Also, that the deformation would disappear by itself over time.
The only other defect I could find was a rattle in the rear door, sounds like someone dropped a screw in there or something. They said they would fix that the next time I came in since they did not have a mechanic on duty (picked up the van Sat afternoon). I also noticed that the brake drums (rear wheels) were really rusty but was told that this was normal in any car.
In the end, I signed all paper work and took possession of the van (one caveat: since my credit union is closed on Sat, I only signed a promissory note saying I would bring the check on Monday but I suppose this is equivalent to having given them the money).
So, here is my question to the group: did I make a mistake in accepting a car which may have problems? Should I have insisted they fix the moulding before I pay for it? At the time, the slight deformation of the windshield moulding seemed like a minor problem but when I later thought about it I was no longer sure that the rain know how it should 'move naturally.'
Perhaps more importantly, should I have negotiated a lower price for the van since it was damaged and repaired?
Other than that, it looks like a really nice vehicle. Other stats: paid MSRP, entered waiting list last October, paid deposit in December. Only option we bought was the Hondacare warranty 7/100K/0 which I got for 885.- after I told them I could buy it for this price on the internet (this group sure saved me a bundle there!).
The rubber molding around the windshield is just for cosmetic purpose. There are thick adhesive seal underneath the glass to seal out water from outside. Just take a look at your rear and center side windows, There are no moldings around them and water does not penetrate into passenger compartment. As far as gaps between molding and roof rack track covers, All Ody have the same thing. If you really look closely, The plastic molding that cover the cawling is warped. All of these won't affect the performance or reliability of your vehicle and that is why you buy a Honda, Right? I hope
I currently own a 2000 LX with a vibration problem since new.
Other than the Michelins, traction control, seat height adjustment, LATCH system, and intermittent rear wiper are there any other changes to this model.
I am interested more in the suspension differences. Specifically a strut brace that I have heard is now part of the suspension on all models of the 2001 that was not on the 1999 or 2000 models.
Also, have any of the owners of the 2001's experienced a vibration (75MPH shimmy)? It does not appear to be that common anymore as I look through the discussions and I am wondering if maybe this strut brace could be the reason.
I've had my 99 EX almost three yrs - It's the best vechile I've ever owned (I've had over 6 new cars). Remember, this forum handles problems, I don't think it is representitive of majority of owners. I'm very satisfied and would and will buy another Ody (Probably next year).
We just had our EX barely 3 weeks, it now has about 300 miles on it; the right side sliding door stopped working yesterday. Right now, it does not respond to any of the 3 ways to control it i.e. the dashboard switch, keyless control, pulling the door handle (outside and inside). I had to manually pull it shut for safety reasons. The driver side sliding door still works fine. I plan to bring it to the dealer later this morning. It is so dissappointing to have this happen so soon as I know my brother's '99 power sliding door had to be serviced 4 times for not closing completely; during the 4th time he made them replace the latch before it works properly again . Here is what happened. Maybe some of you know exactly what's wrong and may have some input? After parking at the store(it's a level parking area) and the children have exited, my wife pulled the outside handle of the right sliding door and it started to close, as it is closing, she presses the keyless control unit to lock the doors and go into the store. When she came out of the store, she noticed that the sliding door did not latch close completely. She tried to close or open that door using both the handle, the keyless control and the dashboard switch but none works, the door simply did not operate at all as if no signal is sent to the motor at all. That's when she decided to turn the dashboard switch to Off and manually tried to shut that door so she can drive the van home without the constant beeping.
Just as a proper procedure type of question: are you supposed to press the lock button on the keyless control unit while the sliding door is operating? It shouldn't be that restrictive, should it?
I have just read some of the postings from Auburn63 about resetting the door but I have not tried it being that it is so late in the night right now. Anyway, any input from the readership here is appreciated.
Although I have never tried to lock the doors while they were operating, I guess you have discovered they are that restrictive. I remember that they beep when I try to make them function when already locked. Did the door beep 3 times or just screw up with no warning ? The doors do require some on job training to get them to function each time reliably. I have a 99 EX with over 34K miles on it. I get over 20 MPG with 70 % commuting and 30 % highway miles. My "needs gas light" came on at 348 miles on the odometer. I filled it up with 16.67 gallons. That comes to about 20.88 miles per gallon. My gas milage got better as the van aged. I have not had 1 problem with it. I'd recommend it readily. As for my dealer, they are outstanding. They even wash it with an oil change.
I don't think the problem was caused by trying top lock the doors while the slider was in motion, but the doors will not lock unless they are completely closed, simply because there is no power to the power locking mechanism inside the door, unless the contacts between the forward edge of the the door and the door frame are in contact. On 1999 EX the only warning you get that the van has failed to lock is that the parking lights do not flash, also a second push on the remote lock button will not produce a beep. I understand that 2001 EX's beep three times if the lock button is pushed with any doors open. My guess is that if you turn the doors back on and try to open (fully) and close the door twice manually, before you can finish the power mechanism will take over again. If it doesn't then you will have to give the dealer a look at it, but you were planning to do that already. (Actually, if that doesn't fix it you'll have an advantage, because things that absolutely will not work right now are much easier to diagnose than things that work right now, but didn't work a while ago!)
I don't own my own Odyssey YET(hopefully before the end of April) but I just test drove one this weekend and I asked about being able to close the doors manually if needed and the sales rep told me that doing so would damage the motor for the doors. I was worried about getting caught in a heavy rainstorm and having the van get soaked before the doors closed. The salesman may have been wrong but I wanted to mention this.
From experience - the remote does not lock the doors when the slider is closing. It beeps at you. Either driver or passenger door lock will lock all doors and when the slider finally closes, it will also be locked. There have been a couple of times which, even in Park with engine running, that I can't open the slider with the console button. Jack
imhip2, I have an LX 2001 and just got back from a long trip with a lot of interstate driving. My Oddy now has about 5,000 miles on it, and I experienced the "shimmy" for the first time on this trip at 65 miles per hour or greater. I am hopeful that this is a mere alignment problem and plan to take the van in for a "checkup" here this week.
I, too, would be interested in hearing from others who have had this problem and how they solved it as I've not read anything on this forum about a similar problem before.
I can't really see how you could damage the motors by opening the doors manually. Furthermore, it says that you can open them that way in the owner's manual.
I thought that was pretty strange myself. Guess that was a good example of a salesman with poor knowledge of the product he's selling. I'll tell him to read his manual. This was the same salesman that told us that he thought the effort that he put into "trying to sell us" the van at over MSRP, no deal on options and a 5 week wait was worth $500.00 that we'd save going to another dealer that had one in stock next week. His effort consisted of calling us 3 times at home to try and set up an appointment for us to come in that was convienent for him and actually showing us the car. Unfortunately for him was not! It sure was worth a good long laugh though!
kelliag, Yes, I have this problem also. I have an appointment tommorrow to drop off the van so they can look at it again. This will be the 3rd time it will have been in for this problem. Previously they kept wanting to group it with the noise that occurs around 40 to 50 mph with a transmission cable. I think they usually refer to this as a torque-converter lockup problem.
After I talked to several another service manager, he now thinks I might have a different problem.
Over time, the problem has gotten easier and easier to reproduce, so I believe it is getting worse.
I believe the problem is that the torque-converter is locked up (as it should be at the time) and for some reason the transmission decides to unlock it, but then suddenly decides to relock it, etc. The main symptom is that the RPMs end up bouncing around.
At first, it required a hill to reproduce, but now I can do it easily on flat straight ground. I think I have gotten reproducing it down to an art-form now.
In case anyone else wants to try: Need flat or slightly uphill straight stretch of road. Accellerate to around 40+ mph. Let off the gas and watch the tachometer drop to around 1500 or below. (This should trigger the lockup.) Then start accelerating very slightly. If the tachometer suddenly jumps up and you actually start accelerating, then you have given it too much gas. As you apply the gas, the engine will sound like it is accelerating, the tach will not move and the speed will remain basically the same. After a few seconds, the transmission will decide to unlock the torque-converter and the RPMs will jump, only to immediately drop back down, then to jump, then to drop. As long as all the variables remain steady, I can keep the transmission doing this for awhile. To stop it, either give it more gas, or let off the gas.
There is no real noise associated with this (that I can detect) and no one other than the driver can even tell it is happening (in other words, the ride remains smooth during this.)
By the way, I have a 2000 LX with 21000 miles. Problem was first noticed around 14000 miles.
I have read others having the problem but not alot recently. Alot said that switching to aluminum wheels took care of it. Why that would work I don't know other than they are lighter. I don't want to worry you but mine has had the shimmy with Firestones, Michelins, numerous balancing, new rims (steel) and alignment. Honda dealer says Honda Canada (I'm in Canada) has instructed them not to attempt to fix vibration problem. I have had to get Honda Canada's approval for all wheels etc.
I also find that both my front tires wear the outside edge as if it is "snowploughing" down the road. There is actually a lip that is forming on the outer tire "tines" Dealer says the wear is normal. I showed him another Ody sitting there and showed him it wasn't. No comment other than I must be under inflating tires. My comment back was that they are the ones who have set the pressure. I just maintain it at what they set it.
They haven't been able to fix mine in over a year of trying and I don't think they will and here is why. I met another Ody owner at the dealer in late November who had the same vibration problem. Six weeks later he got back his 99 Ody LX armed with new drive shafts, steering, tires, aluminum wheels etc. he got 400 KM (250 miles) of vibration free driving. He no longer owns this van and subsequent to him disposing of it, the transmission went at 58Km (35K miles) per the leasing co.
I go to arbitration in a week over the vibration. What a frustrating problem. That is why I need info on the strut brace to detemine if Honda used this to eliminate the vibration in the 2001. They are very quiet on this. You know the motto, no fix for problem = no admission to problem.
I hope yours only is an alignment problem as I was hoping they had fixed the vibration on the 2001 as I am considering replacing the 2000 with a 2001. If I were you I would start documenting all attempts to get this fixed. I know it helped me when it came time to file the claim forms for the arbitration.
Best of luck and I hope they fix yours the first time Pymm.
To all those who post wanting to know if I would buy another one, the answer is YES but an LX. I think I just got a Bad one this time. No other problems with gas gauge, tranny, or doors (it's an LX) stereo is OK, back-up are weak and the rear nozzel is bad. No other van compares for size, comfort or reliability although, having said this, it is not my old Japanese build Accord.
I also forgot about the wind noise. Yes my 2000 Ody LX has wind noise from the drivers door but so does my 2000 Civic. The Ody will at times make a whirr sound if the cross winds are right. The Ody is not the quietest of vans and I drove a 95 Windstar for four years that was quieter than this. If quiet is a main concern then you should be concerned about the Ody. I have 4 kids so I don't know what quiet is anymore.
I had a similar problem with the transmission in my 2000 EX NAV. I had it from the first month on, but it took a year to be able to reproduce in front of a Honda mechanic. (My problem was highly intermittent, usually occurring after driving at highway speeds.)
Once Honda observed the problem, they scheduled a transmission replacement. The Odyssey has been fine since (about 5 months now.)
Comments
Good Luck to everyone already in arbitration.
chaucer - As for as not being able to shift into D3, D2 or D1 - been there done that. Its an odd shifer movement and it's not like other cars I've owned. I bet if you just pull down on the shitfer in the circular motion that it travels it will work. Don't pull it towards you or it will not go past D4.
treyh1--I located the rubber bumper you're talking about. I'll give that a try also. Thanks again!
Dorhn
This week the brakes started chirping when stopping. I stuck my finger in to get a feel for how much pad is left. Not much...definitely less than 1/4 inch...probably about 1/8 from the feel.
So...we have just under 15k miles on the van. Seems a bit odd to have to replace the pads already. Typically we seem to get double that mileage (or more) out of a set of pads on our Accord.
Anyone know if this is normal for the Odyssey? Is it normal for minivans? I assume this is not covered under any warranty issues, right? Normal wear and tear?
Thanks for any info. No, I don't love this van...I want to, but I just can't when it seems like it's in for some kind of service or problem every month.
Billy
billyymc@aol.com
Jim d.
Jim d.
Test them with a roll of paper towels.
2- I have had cold weather starting problems on ocassion, once had the dealer tow the car. Engine would turn over fine, but would not start. When towed to dealer, van started fine. I was glad I aske the tow truck driver to try to start it (so I knew I wasn't nuts). Dealers advice is to wait a few seconds after turning the switch on before engaging the starter, allowing the system to boot up and the fuel pump to fully charge the lines (????) Anyone else?
This power flush is supposed to clean the engine with 'The EnviroLution Engine Life-Guard System'. This flush will clean the every part whereever engine oil reaches and removes all contaminated oil. Normal oil change would cost me $21, but this flush will cost me $120(inclusive of oil/filter change).
Is this worth the money? Does it really help? Has anybody done it and noticed the difference? Pl. reply me... Thank you.
Seriously, imho, so long as you change your oil/filter as recommended in your owner's manual, there should be no reason to flush out "contaminated oil" or "sludge".
Steve
Host
Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
Did they promise to kiss you during and still love you afterwards?
Seriously, what a Scam! This is a Honda dealer? I've noticed that my non-dealer mechanic (Goodyear Tire Store) has been pushing this for ATF changes. I didn't bite. I'm coming up on my 2nd ATF change soon (90k miles), and will do it myself. Cost = 3 qts of Honda ATF at about $4.50/qt.
There has been some discussion about the motors in the rear windows. Mine were very loud. We had the motors replaced. They were better at first, but are back to the original sound. Oh well!
1 is door switch circuit or dcu(door control unit)
2 is remote control circuit or dcu
11 open switch circuit or dcu
12 switch circuits or dcu
13 remote control or dcu
14 handle circuit/switch or dcu
15 keyless reciever unit or dcu
21 rev sensor circuit or dcu
22 same
23 dcu
24 rev sensor lines or dcu
25 slide motor problem,dcu or ground problem.
We see alot of code 25 and there is a service bulletin out for its repair that has us do some adjustments and ground improvements.Have not seen any other codes as of yet.Of course there are more extensive possible sources within the code itself but these are the basics that are in the manual.
Also, the infamous "Bang in Reverse" is caused by - guess what? - "reverse selector" not fully engaging the counter-shaft reverse gear. The TSB# is A00-065, issued by Honda on 8/22/2000.
Well, I think I have done enough analysis on the Honda automatic transmission. My wife is really upset because she think I spent too much time with the Ody!
BTW, my next car will be from Honda, and it will have a manual transmission!
Happy driving!
With all the problems you've had with the vehicles and or the service departments would you still recommend the Ody or no?
It's so hard to decide when you look at the safety ratings compared to the other minivan's on the market but even on the 2001 Ex model we looked at yesterday at the dealers one of the rear doors wasn't responding properly.
Thanks in advance!
Thanks again!
So far we are very pleased with the Odyssey. No pulling left or right, no tranny noises, I don't even hear the infamous gas sloshing.
Jim d.
I don't have wind noise from driver and pass window in my '00 EX.
Basically to doors begin to move, determine power required, then try to close. There isn't alot of time left for obstruction detection and reversal.
That 12" is plenty for my 4YO son - he's pretty skinny. Me on the other hand....Besides, I don't think the door would really crush anyone.
I would guess that all power doors operate on a scheme similar to this.
First let me tell you that I have just posted this to the general Ody group (Odyssey XXX) but then I thought that this group might also be helpful. So, please don't be upset if you see this posting twice, I think it is in fact appropriate for both groups.
This is my first posting here although I have lurked for some time but I could never contribute. Would like your opinion now.
We picked up our LX today. Went over the very helpful checklist published here and did not find any problem listed (no clunking in reverse, no pull to right etc). HOWEVER, there is one problem: The salesman told us that there had been some transport damage: somebody dropped a chain on the van during loading or unloading. He (and the sales manager whom he brought in when I started to ask questions) said that it was purely cosmetic and that it had been completely repaired. On my request, he showed (and gave) me the copy of the repair bill ($650.-, mainly labor for painting plus replacement of a 'molding' and a 'garnish,' the latter supposedly being the rubber strip over the roof carrier attachment).
The paint job was certainly done very nicely; I could not find any paint line. The only problem I could see is that the rubber molding around the windshield is peeling up slightly from behind (about 2 mm) where it meets the rubber strip over the roof carrier attachment (garnish')). The sales manager said it should not make any problems since 'the natural movement of rain' is from the front of the car and that I should simply avoid spraying water across the roof from behind when I wash the car to avoid water entry. Also, that the deformation would disappear by itself over time.
The only other defect I could find was a rattle in the rear door, sounds like someone dropped a screw in there or something. They said they would fix that the next time I came in since they did not have a mechanic on duty (picked up the van Sat afternoon). I also noticed that the brake drums (rear wheels) were really rusty but was told that this was normal in any car.
In the end, I signed all paper work and took possession of the van (one caveat: since my credit union is closed on Sat, I only signed a promissory note saying I would bring the check on Monday but I suppose this is equivalent to having given them the money).
So, here is my question to the group: did I make a mistake in accepting a car which may have problems? Should I have insisted they fix the moulding before I pay for it? At the time, the slight deformation of the windshield moulding seemed like a minor problem but when I later thought about it I was no longer sure that the rain know how it should 'move naturally.'
Perhaps more importantly, should I have negotiated a lower price for the van since it was damaged and repaired?
Other than that, it looks like a really nice vehicle. Other stats: paid MSRP, entered waiting list last October, paid deposit in December. Only option we bought was the Hondacare warranty 7/100K/0 which I got for 885.- after I told them I could buy it for this price on the internet (this group sure saved me a bundle there!).
All of these won't affect the performance or reliability of your vehicle and that is why you buy a Honda, Right? I hope
Happy driving
Other than the Michelins, traction control, seat height adjustment, LATCH system, and intermittent rear wiper are there any other changes to this model.
I am interested more in the suspension differences. Specifically a strut brace that I have heard is now part of the suspension on all models of the 2001 that was not on the 1999 or 2000 models.
Also, have any of the owners of the 2001's experienced a vibration (75MPH shimmy)? It does not appear to be that common anymore as I look through the discussions and I am wondering if maybe this strut brace could be the reason.
After parking at the store(it's a level parking area) and the children have exited, my wife pulled the outside handle of the right sliding door and it started to close, as it is closing, she presses the keyless control unit to lock the doors and go into the store. When she came out of the store, she noticed that the sliding door did not latch close completely. She tried to close or open that door using both the handle, the keyless control and the dashboard switch but none works, the door simply did not operate at all as if no signal is sent to the motor at all. That's when she decided to turn the dashboard switch to Off and manually tried to shut that door so she can drive the van home without the constant beeping.
Just as a proper procedure type of question: are you supposed to press the lock button on the keyless control unit while the sliding door is operating? It shouldn't be that restrictive, should it?
I have just read some of the postings from Auburn63 about resetting the door but I have not tried it being that it is so late in the night right now. Anyway, any input from the readership here is appreciated.
I remember that they beep when I try to make them function when already locked. Did the door beep 3 times or just screw up with no warning ?
The doors do require some on job training to get them to function each time reliably.
I have a 99 EX with over 34K miles on it. I get over 20 MPG with 70 % commuting and 30 % highway miles. My "needs gas light" came on at 348 miles on the odometer. I filled it up with 16.67 gallons. That comes to about 20.88 miles per gallon. My gas milage got better as the van aged.
I have not had 1 problem with it. I'd recommend it readily. As for my dealer, they are outstanding. They even wash it with an oil change.
The salesman may have been wrong but I wanted to mention this.
Jack
I, too, would be interested in hearing from others who have had this problem and how they solved it as I've not read anything on this forum about a similar problem before.
Jim d.
This was the same salesman that told us that he thought the effort that he put into "trying to sell us" the van at over MSRP, no deal on options and a 5 week wait was worth $500.00 that we'd save going to another dealer that had one in stock next week. His effort consisted of calling us 3 times at home to try and set up an appointment for us to come in that was convienent for him and actually showing us the car. Unfortunately for him was not! It sure was worth a good long laugh though!
Yes, I have this problem also. I have an appointment tommorrow to drop off the van so they can look at it again. This will be the 3rd time it will have been in for this problem. Previously they kept wanting to group it with the noise that occurs around 40 to 50 mph with a transmission cable. I think they usually refer to this as a torque-converter lockup problem.
After I talked to several another service manager, he now thinks I might have a different problem.
Over time, the problem has gotten easier and easier to reproduce, so I believe it is getting worse.
I believe the problem is that the torque-converter is locked up (as it should be at the time) and for some reason the transmission decides to unlock it, but then suddenly decides to relock it, etc. The main symptom is that the RPMs end up bouncing around.
At first, it required a hill to reproduce, but now I can do it easily on flat straight ground. I think I have gotten reproducing it down to an art-form now.
In case anyone else wants to try:
Need flat or slightly uphill straight stretch of road.
Accellerate to around 40+ mph.
Let off the gas and watch the tachometer drop to around 1500 or below. (This should trigger the lockup.)
Then start accelerating very slightly.
If the tachometer suddenly jumps up and you actually start accelerating, then you have given it too much gas.
As you apply the gas, the engine will sound like it is accelerating, the tach will not move and the speed will remain basically the same. After a few seconds, the transmission will decide to unlock the torque-converter and the RPMs will jump, only to immediately drop back down, then to jump, then to drop. As long as all the variables remain steady, I can keep the transmission doing this for awhile. To stop it, either give it more gas, or let off the gas.
There is no real noise associated with this (that I can detect) and no one other than the driver can even tell it is happening (in other words, the ride remains smooth during this.)
By the way, I have a 2000 LX with 21000 miles. Problem was first noticed around 14000 miles.
I don't want to worry you but mine has had the shimmy with Firestones, Michelins, numerous balancing, new rims (steel) and alignment. Honda dealer says Honda Canada (I'm in Canada) has instructed them not to attempt to fix vibration problem. I have had to get Honda Canada's approval for all wheels etc.
I also find that both my front tires wear the outside edge as if it is "snowploughing" down the road. There is actually a lip that is forming on the outer tire "tines" Dealer says the wear is normal. I showed him another Ody sitting there and showed him it wasn't. No comment other than I must be under inflating tires. My comment back was that they are the ones who have set the pressure. I just maintain it at what they set it.
They haven't been able to fix mine in over a year of trying and I don't think they will and here is why. I met another Ody owner at the dealer in late November who had the same vibration problem. Six weeks later he got back his 99 Ody LX armed with new drive shafts, steering, tires, aluminum wheels etc. he got 400 KM (250 miles) of vibration free driving. He no longer owns this van and subsequent to him disposing of it, the transmission went at 58Km (35K miles) per the leasing co.
I go to arbitration in a week over the vibration. What a frustrating problem. That is why I need info on the strut brace to detemine if Honda used this to eliminate the vibration in the 2001. They are very quiet on this. You know the motto, no fix for problem = no admission to problem.
I hope yours only is an alignment problem as I was hoping they had fixed the vibration on the 2001 as I am considering replacing the 2000 with a 2001. If I were you I would start documenting all attempts to get this fixed. I know it helped me when it came time to file the claim forms for the arbitration.
Best of luck and I hope they fix yours the first time Pymm.
To all those who post wanting to know if I would buy another one, the answer is YES but an LX. I think I just got a Bad one this time. No other problems with gas gauge, tranny, or doors (it's an LX) stereo is OK, back-up are weak and the rear nozzel is bad. No other van compares for size, comfort or reliability although, having said this, it is not my old Japanese build Accord.
Once Honda observed the problem, they scheduled a transmission replacement. The Odyssey has been fine since (about 5 months now.)