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Honda Odyssey: Problems & Solutions:(1995-2004 Models)
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Also I believe this is what other manufacturers do (re-use the case, replace all innards with new parts). To my knowlege, there is no wear to the case (from inside or outside).
I got just over 28 mpg in a 2006 EX-L on a 400 mile trip across WA state at 70 mph and through the Cascade mountains and 50 miles of Seattle traffic. I bet if you drove on the flat at 55 mph you would get over 30 mpg.
1. Press the brake.
2. Try to shift the gear to reverse (or any other gear). The gear is stuck. Does not shift to any gear.
3. I've left the van, come back to it, and suddenly the gear works...it is a random problem.
Rajup23, can I please ask you what the outcome of this problem was and how you got it fixed?
My faith in the reliability of Honda vehicles is being sorely tested by this problem, because my wife and two small children depend heavily on this van.
Does any one else reading this forum have this problem, and what the diagnosis was?
Thank You.
If the problem is intermittent, and some times it works normally, this is a good place to start.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
We have a 2006 Ody. I back-up all my DVD's for the kids to use. For some reason, the van systems doesn't like alot of them. I get read errors. Some work, others don't. The ones that don't work fine in any other player I have. Anyone else notice this, or have a work around?
Thanks,
Steve
You're spot on. I had a talk with an extremely friendly and helpful Honda service rep. who showed me how I could bypass this problem (just so that I could drive the car to the dealership without having it towed). Basically here are the steps to bypass the problem...
1. On the top of steering wheel manifold, near the dashboard to the right side, there is a small rectangular cover.
2. Prise out this cover with a screw driver. There is a small slot under the cover.
3. Using the ignition key, you push your key into this slot (you don't need to push the key in too hard).
4. While depressing the key, move the gear lever into N (neutral), and you can now start the car.
Note that if you put the car in P (park) again, you may have to run steps 3 and 4 again.
While the dealership is still diagnosing the problem, and hasn't told me the interlock switch is the culprit, you're most probably accurate about the cause.
Luckily I have a Honda Care Services Contract and this problem is covered under the contract.
My faith and esteem in Honda has gone up again..
Mine would burn out constantly to the point I ended up just switching back. I have also heard reports of overheated and melted wiring.
As bad as I see at night, I wish I had had better luck!
Her mechanic was experienced with this problem and diagnosed it instantly.
Let us know how you fare.
Mine would burn out constantly to the point I ended up just switching back. I have also heard reports of overheated and melted wiring.
As bad as I see at night, I wish I had had better luck!
Thanks for the heads up. I will keep a close watch on the wiring although the Extreme Whites are stock.OEM rated at 55W. Hope I get better service out of the PIAAs.
I run Silverstars on my other car (VW Passat) and those burn out prematurely in my mind.
Any ideas on what it may be?
I believe the SRS(for the air bag?) light comes on initially and then disappears. It does its initialization checks and then goes off, I think.
Does the SRS light still stay on when you use the vehicle at later times?
If the SRS light still stays on, I would try disconnecting the battery terminals for at least 5 - 10 mins to see if that would reset the warning system. If the SRS light still says on, you may have a bad switch/relay(sensor) somewhere.
if the SRS light (on the instrument display) stays on after starting the vehicle, it's failed some sub-system self-test.
here's where i would disagree with macakava's advice w.r.t. the battery - while you can try disconnecting your battery, i'm not sure about this, if you don't have your radio code handy, you're going to be looking at some additional inconvenience.
also, i could be wrong, but i'm not an advocate of disconnecting the battery to reset anything. here's why:
think about it, if the system detected some problem and you "reset it" using this procedure (if it's even possible with the SRS sub-system), did the problem get resolved, or did you just reset the warning indication you were presented with?
i'd suggest you bring it to the dealership for diagnosis. it's possibly your clockspring on the steering column, or a connection to the passenger airbag or the bag's themselves, but who is to know exactly, failed an intengrity check.
finally, with the light illuminated, it's likely the system is holding an important code which will be useful in diagnosis. you reset it to make it disappear, and it's potentially lost...then the question becomes, will the system operate as designed if you need it to? did you make proper diagnosis much more difficult?
for the SRS system, it's just not worth the risk.
The light stays on. She had my 12 year old son in the front seat, but he was properly buckled up.
I think I'll bring it by the dealership.
Sometimes these "idiot lights" get randomly set for no apparent logical reason. If after resetting it, the idiot light does not come back on, then it likely occurred for no reason.
If it was a hard solid failure, the idiot light would come back on. So it is worth trying to avoid paying a visit to the garage and a diagnostic charge at $70+/hr, unless it is under warranty still. You have nothing to lose. I have used that same logic before with my other vehicles.
Yes with the Ody, you have that radio resetting up you have to do whenever the battery is disconnected.
Good luck.
Actually my wife drove it to the Honda dealer and they said that it might reset itself, so we'll see.
i'd say consult your owner's manual to see if the SRS indicator on the instrument panel for your '02 would indicate if the weight on the passenger seat is too little. if so, then when both get out of the seat, then the light should in theory go off, it the '02s aand earlier were designed that way. then if so, if the light doesn't go off, then that's a clear indication it probably wouldn't deploy in a real accident, and you need it fixed.
i wasn't opposing what macakava was suggesting as much as indicating if you disconnected the battery, you'd probably loose use of your radio. in addition, i see the point about these systems often not indicating true problems. the thing is - we as users don't know if it's a real condition, or a flakey. and - if the light is on - it's going to be easier to diagnose than with it off. (in theory anyway).
it's always better to err, especially w.r.t. a safety related system, that if you've got an indication, you risk your safety. now w.r.t. emissions controls and other engine / exhaust related systems and the CEL on the dash, i think i know where macakava is comming from. one would think, disconnecting the battery and resetting that system may in the short term save some money. if the CEL (Check Engine Light) doesn't illuminate again - *maybe* you're ok. maybe you're not. maybe it will take some time for the system to sense a problem again and re-illuminate the light. depending on the problem though, was more damage done?
hypothetically say, an engine running rich is going to toss a code and cause the CEL to light. Continuing to drive with the system rich (how rich we don't know)...you end up sending lots of unburnt fuel to the Cat convertor...and you incurr Cat damage.
bottom line (for me), a CEL or a SRS...yeah they are going to cost, but failure to attend to them rapidly can cost you more in the long run.
this reminds me. Santa doesn't know I want a Honda - compliant OBD-II reader with computer interface. Neither does the wife. I think I'll need to buy one in '06 for myself so I'll be in a position to help diagnose my Accord and Odyssey myself...
Like CELs and SRS lights, I still believe in Santa.
Good Luck
Yes I feel lucky that at least I know something is wrong. But the timing of the light is terrible- I need it for a road trip on Tuesday. (and that's also the day the dealer is backed up until)
Perhaps now I will take the Infiniti on the road trip to Disneyworld on Tuesday, or perhaps rent a car. I probably won't deal with it until I get back.
I don't think I would take the van on a road trip without the airbags working...
remember the days when we were kids and we drove on our parents laps, or we jumped around in the back seat without belts on? gosh - maybe we even stuck our torsos out the window...
things changed huh?
the infinity must be a good road-trip vehicle no? oh - yeah - it's not an adults only trip to the Disneyland.. so you don't want to deal with the lingering smell of french fries, spilt coke or cherry icees and cheese and peanut butter cracker debris in the infinity?
i understand.
happy holidays!
I think it's barely enough space. But at least it would get me there with airbags that work...
I wouldn't just go down and write a check, but I wouldn't completely dismiss it either. Afterall, my Accord was perfectly fine at 97,000 miles when I sold it to get the Odyssey. My Civic is still fine at 99,900 (almost 99,999) and I would definitely consider another Honda.
1.) Wheels out-of-balance
2.) Bent rims
3.) Out of round tires
4.) Any suspension related things(eg defective ball joint joints, control arms, bushings, etc).
The resonant frequency of vehicles is in the speed range (60 - 67 mph) and this noise and vibration can be triggerred by these 4 problems. Some of these can be a very time-consuming diagnosis and maybe the dealers may not want to invest their time especially if under warranty.
I also wonder whether the humming noise can be the noise cancellation generator found in Odys with VCM, if your is so equipped.
I posted a message, but it didn't appear.
now I'm trying again.
Very dissatisfied with my 2005 Honda Odyssey EX w/leather.
here's my list of things:
the transmission makes a weird humming noise (sounds like a leaf blower under the hood!) when the car is driving (sound does not occur when idling). does anyone have an idea on what this is?
the check engine light came on at 12000 miles. I'm going to have Autozone run the diagnostics before I take it to the dealer. Over the phone the service guy said that I may have "damaged the oxygen sensor" by "running over something". Is this a joke?
the heated seat on the passenger side does not heat.
over 40 mph there is a high pitched whistling noise on the passenger side windshield. noticed that the body panel near that side of the windshield is "springy" and there is a gap between that and the weather stripping. guessing this might be the problem. anyone have an opinion?
lots of other odd cosmetice defects.
not sure that I would recommend this car to anyone.
Thanks for letting me vent.
if so, is there a way to manually disable the VCM (variable cylinder management) and see if the noise is gone under the same conditions?
Thanks,
Steve
+"turn off anc" +honda
there is a post in a club forum i am not allowed to link to. i feel funny doing a copy and paste of the procedure provided there.
i guess others have asked how to disable VCM. interesting they didn't provide an obvious way to do this.
however, the post indicates how to disable ANC (Active Noise Cancellation) that goes with VCM to create effectively the inverse spectral energy in the audible range to cancel the energy produced by the disabling of the cylinders.
in simplistic (and probably inaccurate terms) it does so by monitoring the internal sounds in the cabin via microphone and performs some digital signal processing to model the energy of the sound in the frequency domain, and generates a signal sent through the stereo's speakers (i think even with the radio off) to negate or otherwise lessen the monitored sound, much like the noise cancelling headphones available from BOSE.
Perhaps you could try disabling ANC and report back if this influenced the "Humming" that you are hearing... maybe the ANC is being overly aggressive and responding to a particular resonance and you're hearing the effects of ANC more than the original sound / vibration source.
it's a test i'd try.
The mechanic claimed that he can hear some clunking noise. He said I may have to replace the regulator. I can't hear any abnormal noise. May be the clunking noise was always there. The window works just fine. I contacted the Honda main office. They told me if the regulator is not working, I wouldn't be able to open the window.
If there is a clunking noise caused by a defective regulator, I tend to think it is more a manufacturer's defect. Unfortunately it is not something I check periodically. I will try to contact the manager to see if they can find out what is causing the clunking noise at the window and see if they will cover it under the warranty.
My question is now my van is out of warranty. Is there any reason to bring my van to the dealer any more? They can be quite expensive. The only reason I go to them is to make sure they take care of all the manufacturer's parts and schedule.
The repairs will never stop or slow down.
I have a 2001 EX with the navigation system.
The van has been in repair constantly since the very beginning.
I have the 100,000 mile extended Warranty.
But for last 31/2 years, I have spent tons of money and time at the dealer.
The power door went out twice, once was the door motor, another time is the roller
They also have had to adjust and repair the door many times.
It had gas smell in the winter for about two years , took the dealer 2 years to finally fix the problem, it was the gas pump seal, they had to replace the seal twice.
Transmission went out also. EGR valve, catalytic converter and many other problems.
Most of my repairs were not covered under Warranty or extended Warranty except the transmission. The dealer has been great but the Honda Company has not willing to stand behind their product.
This is the worst vehicle I have ever own, I have several Toyotas and never had any problem like this one. I even had a Chrysler which had problems, but never was as bad as this one.
I believe that Honda has a reliability problem and the Honda Company does not stand behind their product.
Even after all these problems, I was still thinking buying a Pilot, but I have decided that I am buying a 4Runner.I do not like to spend time in the dealer and keeping paying problems.
I will never buy another Honda and I will tell all my friends about the Honda experiences I have had.
Nobody should own an Odyssey when it is under Warranty or not under Warranty. The extended Warranty is useless.
I gave Honda the benefit of doubt when I purchase this vehicle. This vehicle proves to me that I was wrong, Not only the vehicle is unreliable but I also learned that Honda Motor is a company that does not stand behind their product.
it's too bad you had all these items go bad on your honda odyssey.
people are going to take your post with some suspicion as you became a member and logged on today to post this rant.
you say you've owned several toyotas. would you be more specific, and why you aren't still driving one?
no vehicle is immune to needing repairs. check out the highlander P+S, 4runner P+S and sienna P+S forums before making your purchase.
Great observation! It is indeed a long time he has been "experiencing" these "problems".
For all cars, I follow the maintenance schedules closely. I change oil on time, changed timing belt every 60,000 miles. if any thing is not right, I get it repair right the way. I also owned a 1987 Toyota 4x4 pick up which was rusting but it drove great, it never had any major repair. I changed the tires, breaks, shocks. I sold that one to buy the Honda Odyssey. I also owned a 1988 Tercel EZ until I purchased my Camry.
I can only talk through my experiences with Honda, Toyota, and Chrysler. I always buy new vehicle. For the Honda, I have all the maintenance and repairs done by the dealer. Like I said, I follow the maintenance schedule closely.
I was a Edmunds member several years ago, I did posted in the Camry Forum about my highway speed vibration problem and how it was fixed. I also posted about engine sludge problem when a mechanics told me about it. It turned out that the mechanics was wrong, there was no engine problem. It was the power steering pump needed to be replaced. Like I said, I never had major problems with my Toyotas.
I did not log in last 2 or 3 years to post because I changed my email account and forgot my password . I could not get my password send to my old email account because I do not have access to that account anymore.
Today, I created a new account with my new email account and posted my experiences with the Honda.
Like I said, I only can speak with my experiences, I had very good experiences with Toyota and had very bad experiences with Honda. I understand every car has problems but I just had too many problem with my Honda.
How one feels about a particular brand's reliability depends on one's own personal experience with that particular brand, even though it may be a lemon.
Quality and reliability wise, you cannot go wrong with either.
to paulhuang1's point, the '05 ODY does seem to have a few TSBs. one wonders if this isn't partially a consequence of a newly re-designed model. if i recall correctly, the '04 Toyota's had some introduction issues as well. there may be some merit in being cautious about buying a newly designed (or re-designed) vehicle.