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Questions About Auto Insurance and Accidents



  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    when the vehicle is declared a total, isn't the insurance company obligated to include an amount that pro rates the license fee and pay Sales Tax?
    A replacement vehicle can't be purchased without paying the ST.
  • nodamagenodamage Posts: 1
    I had a car accident. a stupid one really. I was getting out of my parking space and although i looked and no one was there when i looked, i ended up hitting a car that was driving ahead. My car rear hit his wheel rim. None of our cars had any dammage because i barely hit the guy's wheel rim. The guy i hit ended up wanting my insurance policy, asking where i lived etc because he didnt have time to look at it now in detail to see if there was any damage although mind u we did spend over 30 minutes looking and there was nothing. i told him i wasnt going to provide him with any of my private information and if he wanted to complain that he needs to call the police now to file a report, he didnt but he did end up taking pictures and i did too and both cars his and mine look perfect, not one scratch on there!! so my question is this: since we live in the same apartment complex, so the guy will see me again and i will see him, can he still come a week/ a month etc later and complain and want to file a claim with my insurance or is it too late since there's no proof and since a police report wasnt filed and there were no witnesses at all. If he does show up trying to bribe for money to get new rims although his rims are perfectly new anyways, i can always pretend not knowing what he's talking about: what accident? who are you? etc.
    So please if someone knows how long after an accident and if the police report wasnt reported and no witnesses, is the guy's statement valid at all?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 25,819
    well, i can't blame the guy one bit for wanting your info. You never know if there was damage that just wasn't apparent (bent wheel, for instance). But he would have found out after driving it for a short time if something like that had happened.

    If he comes back at any time, just tell him to take it up with your insurance company. Then your insurance company will call you and you can provide your side of the story and the photos. Its really not a big deal, IMHO.

    '18 BMW 330xi; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '18 BMW X2. 47-car history and counting!

  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    When there's no damage, because your car kissed his tire, I would not advise a lady to give personal information to an officious oaf either. Why worry or get upset over this situation? He is obligated to substantiate any claim against you within a reasonable period of time and that has been adjudicated to mean within 30 days. Next time you encounter the guy, ignore him. But, in the future, when involved in a crash where there is damage to either property, you are obligated to share your personal information including driver license data. Happy Easter!
  • whitverwhitver Posts: 2
    I unintentionally let the liability coverage on one of my cars on my family policy expire, and a few days later my son was in an accident where there was some damage to another car. No one was injured. I confirmed with my agent that my policy had in fact expired and that there was no "grace period" or anything like that to help me. (I've learned my lesson, I promise!) The other car had damage to the front bumper and panel, but it was fully drivable. I don't know, but might guess $3,000 to repair. I exchanged information and phone calls with the other driver. (The police came to the scene of the accident and issued no citations, but wrote on the accident report that the car my son was driving entered the intersection after the light turned red. That was true, because our car stalled when he slowed for the yellow light, and he lost power braking.)

    The other driver decided to file a claim with their insurance company (GEICO), and I have been expecting to become the target of a subrogation. I have been keeping some money set aside for that, but so far have heard nothing. It has been over 2 months now.

    How likely is it that GEICO decided not to subrogate? If they do subrogate, when will it likely happen and what will happen next? Will I get a letter from GEICO first asking for the damages, or some kind of legal action?

    Thanks for any insight you can provide. I suppose I could call the other driver back and ask how much the repair bill was, but I don't want to put them in a potentially awkward position.
  • I've been on the reverse end of this before.

    Some jacka$$ hit me and I found out about 2 weeks after the accident (when my company tried to subbrogate) that his ins had expired less than 1 month before the accident because of non payment!

    My ins repaired my car (minus ded) and I don't think they went after the other party, because it was not cost effective. Fortunately there were no injuries involved, or it would have been another matter entirely. I had the option of suing the other person, but I never did -$500 ded plus $150 or so rental car = not worth it, except to "teach a lesson". I decided it was not worth the effort either.

    Now about that story about stalling and losing power brakes.

    LOL You have 2 or 3 good power assisted pedals left when a car stalls because of the "leftover vacuum" in the booster, unlike power steering which cuts out immediately.

    Me thinks someone is not being entirely up front about events.
  • whitverwhitver Posts: 2
    Thanks for the response. It might well be that my son told the story with a "favorable spin", and he is certainly sharing in the consequences, beginning with having no car to use because the '93 minivan with 180K miles wasn't worth repairing!

    I would be quite willing to pay the other driver's deductible, since we all agree that my car and its driver initiated the sequence that led to the collision. But I don't want to pay that money on good faith, and then have the insurance company demand it from me again. But I also don't want to just call up GEICO and say "when are you going to subrogate, because I'm ready to pay"!

    So I guess I'll just keep waiting.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    I would be really nice to the other party and pay their deductible since that would come out of their pocket and I can't imagine GEICO coming at you for that. Just make sure you pay him by check or something traceable.
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,703
    euphonium...yes, they should include sales tax, maybe some pro-rated for the license, but if the plate can be transferred then it would not matter...I am not sure when plates can be transferred and when they can't long as 2 cars collide, they have every right to demand your insurance info, and you have every leagl duty to provide it, regardless of any opinion you may have about damages...not to be an idiot about this, but I recommend to every client, if you are involved in a five dollar paint scratch, call police to come to the scene and make a report...'tis better to have the report and not need it, than need it and not have insult intended, but if you think I will depend on the other guy to verify his fault in an accident with no police report, you must believe in the tooth have one chance to document your accident and who was at fault, that is what police reports are for...if there is no damage, then so be it...but a wheel could be bent, a tire could be weakened, a disc or caliper could be damaged, and axle or bearing might be warped...just because he could not detect anything in the parking lot, well, I would protect myself and get a report, if nothing else just to establish fault, so my insurance, if needed, will not go up from making a claim...
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,703
    Many states have laws on the books that say if your collision is blocking the freeway, and the injuries are not serious, then you should move the cars off the road to allow the traffic to flow...the supposition is that the police can figure out what happened by viewing the vehicles damages...I WILL NEVER RECOMMEND THAT FOLKS BREAK THE LAW, but, and I mean no disrespect to police, who I admire deeply...they all ain't quite as motivated as we like to believe...if the cars are moved, they will, as a matter of policy, not draw any diagram of the accident...further, they only have your story and the story of the other guy...if he crossed the line into your lane, it will be obvious where the cars collided and proper fault will be attributed...but if the cars are moved, and traffic causes parts to be strewn all over the road, no fault will be attributed and the victim will be reco to my family is simple...leave the cars on the road to preserve the scene, and to hell with traffic flow, you may have a claim that will be extinguished and your ins rates may go up because of an incompetent cop who can't or won't figure out what is better to receive a ticket for "failure to move the cars" than to possibly receive a ticket for the fault in a collision which is not your fault...trusting the cop at the scene may be the biggest mistake you make in processing the wreck, so make sure the variables aren't variable, and keep the cars in place, or at least keep YOUR car in place... after all, sometimes the laws are written by folks who haven't quite passed 3rd grade sandbox, and I would rather argue the "failure to move" ticket to the judge, and let the other guy argue why he caused the accident, and let his rates go up, and let his ins fix your car so you do not have to pay your collision deductible...make your own choice, but do it with knowledge of how the consequences may screw you, instead of blind obedience to a stupid law...YMMV
  • prophet2prophet2 Posts: 372
    Always insist on getting a police report. You cannot depend on the other guy to tell the truth later. The story gets changed more often than you imagine.

    And, leave the cars exactly as they are. This would be tantamount to "preserving the crime scene." If you have those new camera cell phones, use them to take photos.
  • The insurance company is required to pay the "actual cash cvalue" as described in your policy. State sales taxes and liecnse fees are NOT part of the value and are therefore NOT recoverable. Too bad, but that's the way it is.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    Not in the state of Florida. Our vehicle was totaled in an accident several years ago (other guys fault) and we were reimbursed "appraised value" plus sales tax.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    " And, leave the cars exactly as they are >

    In Florida, they have to be moved if they are drive'able.

    Good advice though on the camera cell phone.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    Note to marsha7, must remember to create new paragraphs.....LOL....My eyes are killing me.
  • prophet2prophet2 Posts: 372
    I'd wait until the police directed me to do so AFTER they arrived on the scene.

    We had a case in Hawaii in which the entire freeway was blocked after a motorcycle fatality - the victim struck a medial barrier at an off-ramp. No thru traffic allowed until the on-site investigation was completed as everyone was routed via the off-ramp. That took FOUR hours before even one lane on the freeway was opened.

    I'm sorry to sound hard-hearted, but I NEVER agree to NOT call the police because the other guy doesn't have insurance or has a "friend" who can fix the body damage. Anyone who falls for this can almost be assured that the story will change.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    " In Florida, they have to be moved if they are drive'able. "

    Addition to that.....And there are no injuries.
  • rroyce10rroyce10 Posts: 9,359
    .. **The insurance company is required to pay the "actual cash value" as described in your policy. State sales taxes and license fees are NOT part of the value and are therefore NOT recoverable.** ...

    Au contraire my friend ... insurance companies would like -not- to pay the taxes ... but a good negotiater will get his final price, then ask, and get the taxes - it's done everyday ...

  • rroyce10rroyce10 Posts: 9,359
    ...... We need to get you a class in Paragraph School .......... ;)

  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,703
    please note the time of my last post, 11:17 pm... I usually go to sleep between 10 and 10:30 pm...while I admit to be a dropout of paragraph school, and also understanding that I only type with my index fingers in true "hunt and peck" style, please cut me a little slack...I am trying to communicate what I hope is worthwhile information from a semi-comatose mental fingers are flying at the speed of light and I correct more typos that your calculator can count...sometimes the thoughts run together, so a proper paragraph break is difficult to determine...I am trying to say something, and the last thing on my mind at 11 pm is "where do I end a paragraph"???...

    Having said that, I will try in the future...

    To compose better, so my...

    English teacher will be proud of me...



  • hello,
    I will turn 21 in 25 days (at the end of April).
    I have driven for almost 4 years. I have had 1 speeding ticket.

    How much would be a reasonable rate for insurance on a new Acura tsx?
    (I am able to be added on someone elses policy)


    SHOULD I WAIT UNTIL I TURN 21 at the end of April until I buy?

    It would not be worth buying a car and paying 3k+ more annually...
    Please help, Thanks :)
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,703
    There are too many factors that you don't tell us, which will affect your premium, and the biggest variable is the experience each company has with folks your age abd that specific you live in Manhattan or Fargo, ND, Los Angeles or Montana...have you taken Driver's Ed (often good for a discount)...have you been a poor credit risk???...any previous wrecks, your fault or the other guy???...just 21 and 1 ticket really says less than nothing about your circumstances...probably time for a new paragraph, according to the paragraph police...
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    Why not just pick a few name brand insurance companies out of the yellow pages and call them for a quote?
  • sandym3sandym3 Posts: 1
    I know I'm fortunate to be here, which is the most important thing. My brand new 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe was wrecked by a moron running a red light on Feb. 2nd. To me, it looked like my car/SUV was totalled. The original estimate was about $5,000 and the vehicle was due to be completed on March 1st. Then March 4th. Then March 11th. Each time I spoke to the body shop, it got pushed back more and more. As of today, 3/28, it's still at the body shop. This time, they tell me it's at the transmission shop and I should have it later this week. The damage is up to over $9,000, and the rental I have been driving is at around $1,600.

    What formula is used to determine whether or not a vehicle gets totalled? Everyone tells me the vehicle will never be right. I try to be an optimist, but I wonder if I wouldn't be better off it was totalled and I could start fresh. Considering I owe about $15,000 on this new vehicle, and it's probably not worth anywhere near that now, thanks to the accident....

    And what can I do about the body shop? This is a "Service First" facility, which is one of the State Farm recommended shops. My husband has used them before, and their work was good in the past. I feel like they're jerking me around. On one day, they tell me one thing, and two days later, it's a different story altogether. What can I do to expedite this, and make sure my vehicle is correctly repaired/restored to its pre-accident condition?

    Also, is it worth pursuing a "diminshed value" claim?

    The other party was uninsured, and this will most likely go through my insurance's "uninsured motorist" coverage.

    Finally, if people do not have insurance, what in the h*** are they doing on the roads?
  • jlightjlight Posts: 1
  • rroyce10rroyce10 Posts: 9,359
    ............ Yikes -- cut the Caps .. I'm not wearing my Giorgio Armani sunglasses ....

  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Ask the dealer from whom you purchased the vehicle how much he would discount a new one had it endured the same damage prior to being sold the first time. That discount would be the DV you are looking for.
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,703
    I have advocated for years that folks who are caught without insurance should be subject to a minimum fine of $1,000 and some other heinous penalties...maybe confiscate their checkbook, garnish their wages pursuant to statute and spend a day in jail...make it tough enough that when they come out they will tell all their other deadbeat friends (birds of a feather DO flock together) to get insurance or be subject to being drawn and quartered without anesthesia...if everyone had insurance, our U/M premiums, for that true occasional idiot, would drop to almost nothing...
  • janzjanz Posts: 129
    I found some great info on the internet.

    Who are you going after, the ins company, the repair shop or the person who hit you? Also, to some extent collecting on this depends on the state you live in.

    As I understand it, Diminished value claims can be either against the Insurance company for not authorizing proper repairs, (they've offered you $1,000) the repair shop (most reputable ones will guarantee their work) or Inherent meaning what is the "perceived" loss in value of yours on a lot compared to another exactly like it that has not been wrecked.

    If the work is guaranteed by the shop and their repair includes OEM parts and all required work was authorized and paid for by the ins company you may only have Inherent Diminished Value/property damage. I belive this would be a claim against the party who hit you and would fall into property damage category. After reading other comments on these posts on collecting on property damage, these can be hard to collect on as you have to prove your loss and generally it will not be as much as the potential for personal injury. Generally lawyers are more interested in personal injury, as that is where the money is.

    IMHO, get the dealership estimate, add the $1000, and balance that against if the time and effort attempting to collect the difference is worth the lawyer fees.

    Good luck


    to sylvest78, get insurance quotes before you buy. We recently purchased liability only on a '02 Integra for our teenge sons and our ins agent said liability only is pretty reasonable, as full coverage on an Integra for a youngg (male)driver is pretty expensive.
  • vs001vs001 Posts: 3
    I have a fully loaded 2001 eclipse GT with only 30000 miles that I have babied for the past 4 years. Got hit badly by a hailstorm that also picked up some gravel and stones. The front windshield was cracked and the sunroof and rear windshield were smashed to bits. Some water also entered the car and wet the carpet (didn't see too much water on the dashboard).

    When I drove for a short distance, i smelled something burning and the speakers started making a hissing sound and then loud creaking noises. I immediately pulled over and turned off the car. The hissing/creaking from the speakers continued although key was removed from ignition.

    Got the car towed to a body shop where an adjuster looked at it after 2 days and said it might be totaled. The battery has been disconnected to stop speakers from making sounds. My guess is that the amplifier is shorted, but i don't know if there are bigger problems. The radio does not turn on but the speakers make noise anyway (if the battery is connected).

    The car is in excellent shape mechanically and I would like to know what is the best course of action if the appraiser's estimate is close to 80% of Actual Cash Value.

    1. I could argue that they repair it. Would they be required to pay for further damages within the next few months if there is further damage to sensors etc?

    2. Take the money they offer and buy a new/ slightly used car. Nada guide has my car at 14,100. KBB has it at 13000 (accounting for leather, sunroof, alloy, in dash cd changer etc)

    3. Take the ACV less Salavage value and keep the car. Get the glasses fixed (about 2000$), amplifier replaced (about 500$ plus labor) and ignore the little dents on the body which I am told pop out in the Texas heat. If i do take this option, is there some way I can get the electrical system examined to check for possible damage to other sensors (body shops in the Austin area don't seem to have much experience with electrical systems and the only dealer is 30 miles away and I don't know if i should be driving there)? Would you recommend disconnecting the fuse for the amplifier circuit and driving the car short distances to get estimates?

    If anyone has knowledge of Eclipse, do you know if there are important sensors under the seat/ on the floor?
    Also, if the car were totaled due to hail damage, do you know how it would show up on on title searches such as carfax? i.e. would i be doomed if trying to sell the car in a couple of years?

    Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.
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