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I am trying to figure out whether the sulfur smell fix is worth the trouble. Sounds like yours was not succesfull (was it botched?). I would hate to see MIL acting up and generating extra trips to a dealer down the road. I would also hate to see any drops in MPG.
Please advise!
You might try checking out the Prices Paid board (choose from the drop down at left) for an idea of what others are paying. And here's info about Edmunds.com TMV.
Thanks,
Manny
I'm trying to buy a new 05 corolla S and I am probably going to get it for 15,500 (the dealer offered 16,900) we will see.
In any case, I have a 5500 dollar down payment and would only need to finance 11,000 or so. But they won't finance me! My credit score even qualifies for the low 3.9/60months that they are running right now but they still won't budge.
As a college student I only have a workstudy job that pays about 480/month. I"m having trouble making them understand that I just don't live off those measly paychecks, I also have financial aid that more than supports me out here in the middle of nowhere.
They want me to co-sign on the loan, but I have more money than my parents combined and they have no credit.
Anyone had any similar problems? IF so where they resolved. I'm on my last nerve here. Would trying a different dealer be any better? ITs Toyota Corporate thats not financing me.
Thanks in advance MM
Our 1995 had to have major work for engine sludge after owing for 3 years. Taking owner responsibly we had this fixed and the car now has 245,000 miles. Our 1988 has 277,000 miles but our problem now is with the 2002 Corolla S 3 years later, dealer said it has engine sludging and the cost is around $2800.00 to repair. Should we try an engine de sludge our self? We maintain all our Toyota's and just was floored with this again.
Thanks, Holly97
Are there any TSB's on the subject?
PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilator...). I think.
MM
Also, maybe getting my new 05 soon. Like in the next 14days (though I doubt they will finance me). Should I be worried about engine sludge for the 05 is this a common problem with that engine?
MM
Mike
Does anyone know if Toyota ever had a recall or "secret" warranty on these 4 cylinder engines?
To have a rod go out at only 64000 miles seems unusual for any car, especially one known for quality as the Toyota. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated....
thanks!
I would, therefore, like to ask Corolla owners of that generation who have piled on impressive mileage on their cars (say 100K or more) without major issues to share their experiences. That'll help reassure those of us who own the Corolla and who bought it with longevity in mind, first and foremost!
Thanks in advance..
I hope someone can help me with this issue, it has probably been discussed before but I am a new member.
Anyways I just bought a new 2005 Corolla CE a couple of days ago, a bare-bones car - no power anything, but I got it for $12,500 out the door. There's really only two things I don't like about the car: it's color (white, and that was the only car they had at that price), and the driver's seat space.
I am 6'2" with long legs, and I have lousy leg room in the car. Of course I considered that when test-driving it, but I thought at the time that the pros (price, reliability, fuel econmy etc) outweighed the cons (color, comfort). But I do want to find a way to fix the problem with leg room. Even with the driver seat pushed all the way back, I don't have much leg room. I don't think I can really put cushions on the seat to give me more room because my head is pretty close to the car's cieling already.
I'm wondering if there's anything I can do about it. I'm thinking maybe I can customize it so that the drivers' seat can beat pushed back more (don't know how much that would cost) - I have long arms too but the steering wheel would be pretty far away from me. I'm starting to think I might not be able to fix this problem. I thought about getting a midsized sedan but fuel economy was definitely important to me. I'm pretty much stuck with this car for years so I want to see if/how I can remedy this.
Looking forward to feedback, thanks.
Thank you in advance for any assistance you may be able to lend.
Shutting off the air with the fan control knob DOES NOT STOP OUTSIDE AIR FROM COMING INSIDE THE CAR. If you insist, these steps should work:
-Set the air DIRECTION control to the face-level vents [this prevents air from being routed to the foot outlets]
-Individually close the face-level vents by moving the blades to a position that effectively blocks the air. On some models there is a separate air knob that closes each of them completely, on others you have to actually move the blades manually to a blocked position.
I reiterate that I think this is a potentially dangerous thing to do [drive the car with no outside air coming in for a prolonged period of time], but if that is what you want, the above steps will accomplish it.
And finally, in any case, why not just adjust the temp control to give the air coming in a little heat, if that is what is bothering you?
My mother-in-law insists on virtually shutting off the incoming air in her Corolla; whenever I drive it, I have to spend a couple of minutes reconfiguring everything so I don't suffocate. It pains me to put it back the way she wants it, but I know how to do it. She too seems reluctant to just adjust the temp to make the dribble of air that comes in with the fan off a little warmer; I believe it is a pathological problem with drafts in her case - it doesn't seem to matter what the temp of the air is. In any case, try the above steps....
Today I finally got the time to take it into a Toyota dealer nearer to my home than where the car was originally purchased. Two hours later they called and told me it appeared to have been in an accident! Bolts had wrench marks on the heads, the right fender was slightly mis-aligned; battery, hold down, ground snaps, and headlights had been removed.
Spoke with my sales rep at the dealer and she told me that I needed to call corporate customer service. I need advice on what my next steps should be.
Thanks.
Attempt to get the confirming dealer of your suspusion[sic] to put their findings into writing for you on their letterhead. Good Luck
Toyotas are bullet-proof and hardly ever have any problems like this. Obviously, a rare manufacturing error when they made the engine block.
2001 Corolla LE, 41,000 miles, kept outside:
A friend owns this car. She noticed, and I heard, a "rubbing sound," when she turns toward the left, coming from the right rear wheel. She has had the "rear brakes replaced," but I am not sure what they did, since she lives out of town, not here by my garage. This sound is speed-dependant, always at the same low volume, but increasing in frequency with car speed.
Could this be the rear bearing? There isn't much else it could be, is there? Then also, on the Corolla, is there a separately replaceable rear bearing, or is the bearing/rear axle hub a single assembly? I have suggested my friend go to Midas/Monroe for a diagnosis.
Thanks to anyone who knows!
Pete
At any rate, I'm very disappointed with the build quality/solidity of those Corollas, especially after taking a ride on the same roads in a friend's Mazda3, which I found to be absolutely squeak/rattle-free. Granted, my friend's Mazda is newer, but it's still more solid than I remember either of our Corollas being at a similar age.
Having said that, both cars lived up to Toyota's bullet-proof reliability (despite a rather expensive brake job on my 2002 model at 32000 km, but I drive fast!). It just makes me cringe when I'm passing over a patch of rippled asphalt and find all sorts of rattles/squeaks coming from my car's doors, dashboard and/or suspension! As you might expect, the dealer always "fails" to find any thing wrong with either car.
Is everybody else experiencing this? I just find it hard to believe I got 2 bad samples!
If that sounds about right, it's the wheel bearing. It's worn down abnormally and will probably get louder - and more likely to create other damage - if you don't do anything. I believe it is a single hub assembly. I got mine replaced under warranty.
Dealer said, no problem to fix. Got work order and went in today. They dab paint on it. It is ridiculous, nothing but a nightmare waiting to happen. Told them it was not acceptable.
I go in tomorrow to see the General Manager. The Customer Relations Manager implied that the whole hood needs to be painted. (which I agree is the only way to fix it). She mentioned 'sending it out'.
Paint Forum host advised me to make sure I get a Full Warranty on the re-done paint. But no follow-up posted on the following questions.
Does anyone know how long a full warranty would be or should be? Never heard of a paint warranty. What if they refuse or only offer a short term or pretend they never heard of it. I expect to have this car at least 10 years.
This really soured my purchase. I hate Toyota dealerships but love the Toyota. (Got a 2005 Corolla LE in silver streak mica). Of course I'll take photos of hood, roof, inside hood; engine since the paint job cannot 'injure' other parts of the car.
I am very intelligent but don't know about paint warranties...They think I'm a moron since I purchased wearing ripped jeans and sloppy sweatshirt. So don't want them to try to take me over by pretending it is not possible or get short-changed on the term.
It was also rev'ing irregularly when dirving, like jumping up and down for no reason.
I checked my manual and it said that one problem might be a leaky PCV (positive crankcase ventilator) valve. Well I found the valve and sure enough the rubber elbow connector was all cracked and old, and also the hose the connects to the back end of it had come out! So I replaced the elbow connector and never had to mess with it since.
That may or may not be the problem. It could be a timing issue, and on a 96' you may still be alble to adjust it. Really though go buy a repiar manual and use the trouble shooting section in the back. There should be a list of problem/solutions.
Front squealing can usually be traced to the improper use, or worse yet, no use at all, of the small amount of lube necessary to allow the pads to move within the caliper, and where the pad actually rests against the piston inside the caliper. Most manufacturers use a proprietary formula for the stuff that lubes the caliper pins and piston, so the wrong stuff [or none at all] can mean that the pads start a high-speed harmonic vibration when applied, and this is the squealing you're hearing.
In the rear, it can be a number of things, including improperly adjusted drums, wrong springs, or a bad bearing.
You need to find someone else to look at the brakes - gasp, maybe even an authorized dealer - but certainly somebody other than the shop who did the work. Noisy brakes are NOT NORMAL on this car, period.
(As a matter of principle, I never take a car I really care about to have the brakes worked on by any shop not affiliated with the manufacturer. You have lots of recourse if an authorized dealer messes things up - not much when done by an independent. If you really know who you are dealing with personally, and KNOW their competence level, of course this advice doesn't apply, but that doesn't sound like what happened in this case.)
Thanks.
My roomates Nissan had the same problem (dying every time he turned left).
It turned out to be a bad serpentine belt pully. Every time he turned it would do something to the power steering and cause the car to die. Wierd.
New Ignitions aren't too expensive, my roomates also been through two on his little sentra. Gah...nissan sux. *chortle*
MM