Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Have you recently switched from a luxury sedan to a luxury SUV? A reporter would like to talk to you; please reach out to [email protected] by 7/25 for more details.
Did you get a great deal? Let us know in the Values & Prices Paid section!
Meet your fellow owners in our Owners Clubs

Grand Cherokee Problems

13»

Comments

  • I just bought a 2000 Grand Cherokee Limited with 28,000 miles. I have been noticing a squeaking noise every time I apply brakes. I took the Jeep to the dealer and was told that this is very normal with GCs because their brakes are part metallic.

    Please let me know if anybody else has had similar problem with their Jeep.

    Thanks
  • mjkempmjkemp Posts: 1
    I purchased a 99 GCLimited with 27K in April of 2002. By September I had to replace all brakes and rotors and then again in May I had to turn the rotors and get new brake pads. They were constantly squealing. I have put about 30K miles on it over that year, but shouldn't have to replace brakes and rotors twice within that time. I also have electrical problems with the headlights when they are in the auto setting. I found they blink many times and also went on by themselves when the car was in the garage. I have the loud noise by the windows. I have about had it with this car and am worried about other things falling apart. My transmission definitely sounds like it could go with loud thunking noises when changing from reverse to drive or vice versa. Any help in the brake and rotor part though would be helpful.
  • greasykid1greasykid1 Posts: 336
    Just bought with 21,000 miles. Everything is like new except that I get a rear axle whine when I leave off the gas. Have read all posts on this board.
    My 5* is going to check it out next week but it seems that the sound has to be over a certain level before it becomes unacceptable & something ? can be done.

    What is the "fix"?. Need details so that I can ask the right questions and get the problem corrected while still in warranty.

    Checked NHTSA for service bulletins. Found # 0300302A dated Oct 28,2002 but cound not get a copy of this from the website. How can I get the bulletin info or a Jeep TSB?

    Appreciate ANY help .
  • rock1rock1 Posts: 12
    Easiest way to get any Jeep TSB is ask at the Jeep service desk. Just have the TSB number ready.
    Don't deal with any dealership who refuses to provide you with a copy.
    Do you have Quadra Drive in addition to Quarda Trac?
    The whine compliants seem to be caused by the Quarda Drive system.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Posts: 867
    There is a site that has them on-line...well, at least a summary...might not have all the info.
    www dot wjjeeps dot com scroll down and follow the link to TSB's.
  • janzjanz Posts: 129
    is to replace the faulty Calipers. There's a TSB on faulty calipers, they don't disengage completely and drag on the rotors causing them to heat up and warp. Until the calipers are replaced, this will continue.

    This past fall, we got a complete front brake job (calipers, rotors, pads) on our '99. We only had a $50 co-pay because of this TSB and a previous rotor replacement indicating that we had reported previous problems. We WERE a couple mos. past the 36 mo. warranty period, but only had had 32K mi.

    The guy next to me in the courtesy van back to the dealer ship was jealous. He was paying over $600 for the same work, but he had mileage at somewhere around 75K.
  • suvowner1suvowner1 Posts: 33
    This is the best web site on the net for Grand Cherokee information. Here is a link to the tsb part of this site. Ther is def a kit for the brake rotors, it all depends on the quality of the customer service dept of your dealership as to how helpful they will be for you. But I know that jeep will reimburse the dealership for the brake rotor kit as a warranty repair. Fortunately I live in an area with a top notch jeep service dept.
    http://www.wjjeeps.com/tsb.htm
  • I have owned a 99 JGCL V8 4X4 for three years with no major problems. However, yesterday the Check Engine light went on and during my drive around town I noticed that the transmission began to jerk from 1st to 2nd gear, something that never happened before. I pressed the O/D button in and out and noticed no difference in rpm like before. The problem remains.

    My theory is that the Check Engine light and the faulty transmission symptom are related and after reading a few posts here, I believe it all has to do with the PMC.

    If someone knows about this, please respond and give me a clue if this is a big, expensive problem or something minor. And... should I go to dealership immediately... Thanks in advance.
  • wolwol Posts: 10
    (reposted to correct some errors)

    The front door hinges on my '97 GCV8 have two little capstan rollers that click past the detent spring. (This is to hold the doors open on inclines) In spite of regular maintenance, these rollers get stiff and creaky.

    Recently, one of the rollers shattered when I opened the door, scattering small ball-bearings. The sharp edge of the capstan post soon began to cut into the detent spring and made an 'orrible grating noise on opening the door.

    I figured that it was time to fit a new hinge, but Jeep hinges are welded on the door side and bolted only onto the frame side. The rollers are on the door side, making a weld inevitable. The dealer told me that it might cost hundreds to fix. The hinge is only $50, but there is cutting, welding and repainting. (And inevitably, rusting!)

    The fix is to go down to the hardware store and buy a "nylon spacer" that is about the same outside diameter as the original roller. 59 cents in Home Depot.

    Before starting, check the hinge detente spring. If it is badly chewed up, this fix might not work for you. If it is just a little chewed up, use a fine file or abrasive to ease off any burrs.

    Using a drill or dremel with a conical grinding (or abrasive head) ream out the inside diameter of the spacer from both sides until it _just_ sits on the head of the capstan post.

    By using a conical grinding head, you'll leave a slight bulge inside the nylon spacer which is a tad smaller than the diameter of the capstan.
    (The inside has an hourglass shape.)

    Grease the capstan post and sit the nylon roller on the top.

    Give the roller one sharp rap with a hard plastic mallet or dead-blow hammer. The roller should pop permanently onto the post. If it doesn't, clean it up and ream it out a bit more, but not so much that it won't stay on the post.

    If you get the inside diameter of the roller just right, it should rotate freely but stay on the post. Even if it doesn't rotate freely, it won't matter (read on).

    Grease the hinge well with an appropriate hinge lube. I use a grey high-flashpoint lithium grease which seems to hold the creaking at bay between services.

    The resulting roller works perfectly and is actually quieter than the original. If it doesn't rotate, it just wears down slightly where it contacts the spring, and you might have to replace it again later. It won't damage or abrade the spring. Mine has lasted well for 8 months.

    It's important to pick a spacer made of the hard, slick nylon that is typically used as an axle spacer on small cart axles. That kind of plastic is self-lubricating and hard wearing. They come in a variety of diameters and lengths - i didn't need to cut it for length.

    I hope this tip helps someone else save a few bucks on hinge work.

    Best,

    The Wol
  • JUST PURCHASED, 5.2 ALL HIWAY MILES, LIKE NEW ONE OWNER, ONLY CONCERN IS SOME BINDING IN TIGHT TURNS, VISCOUS COUPLER? HOW LONG CAN IT LAST BEFORE I REPLACE IT, A GARAGE KEPT BEAUTY,ANY COMMENTS? [email protected]
  • P.S PAID $4,600 FOR THIS BEAUTY AND POTENIAL PAIN IN THE NECK
This discussion has been closed.