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Comments
Alternators have been known to allow a drain on battery. So have starters.
Not sure just how the wiring logic is on your car but some have had problems with the rear strut load-leveling compressor running even if the car is off. You might pull the fuse for it temporarily. Do you notice the compressor cutting on while driving indicating the struts or lines may be leaking?
Also the automatic blower speed control, the blower control module, can be on after the car is off--if your car has the digital temperature control. However, I would believe it would be on immediately even if the key is off. The modules fail in different ways.
Beyond that you're down to checking for a drain and I believe that's 30 milliamperes or more. I can't guarantee that as the maximum normal drain because I'm recalling that value from memory for the H-bodies where people have checked.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Here's what mine looks like:
diagram: http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2698621300105698750ZGDjuw
picture: http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2999066120105698750gRPVZQ
If you haven't removed your belt yet, make a diagram. If you have, I'm sure you've figured out what a pain it is to remove the lower motor mount to replace the belt. That design flaw was fixed in the 2000 model I think, it is a 5 minute swap on the later models.
On the other hand, you may just be replacing a component like the alt or water pump.
Hope this helps.
i have factory service manual for 95 PA. from all i read, buick radios from 95 to 2000 are compatible. in that case, assuming that 95 FSM instructions are applicable, i have the procedure for disabling theft deterrant system. however, the radio was purchased off the shelf from the junk yard so i don' t know the VIN the radio was taken from. as i understand it, dealer will not tell factory code if they don't have VIN.
i would just return radio to JY for credit but it has features i was looking for (dvd player and cd casette player).
UNLOCK RADIO CODES
they were not able to help me because my radio had an additional malfunction but they are refunding my cost voluntarily.
my thanks to Mr. Shiftright for steering me to the site. the site is radio-code.com.
Are the battery connections good and clean and tight? If the connections are good, and the fuel gauge needle is erratic and bouncing around, that would seem like a possible sender unit going bad. This is found inside the tank, attached to the fuel pump.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Spark plug wires seem to be a very common factor in problems on the 3800's. Replacing them with Belden or other OEM quality wires helps. Also replacing the plugs with the AC Delco replacement saves trouble in the end. Occasionally someone has other plugs and switching back fixes the problem. There are some who run NGK plugs who are successful in the Bonneville groups.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Regards, Joe
Further, I have not purchased a replacement of any kind, yet. So, I'm looking to do this I hope, without having to buy any specialty tools. If I go with the whole column does the airbag present any special experience/knowledge requirements in order to get the job done?
I would appreciate your opinion. Thanks, Tom
Does your key have the resistor chip on the throat of the key or is the coding in the plastic part of the key for the 97 Park Avenue?
If it's the resistor chip in the key throat, then changing the steering column would mean you'd have to bypass the VATS system reading that chip or replace the lock cylinder in the new column with the lock cylinder from the old one so that the resistor chip will work. There are 15 resistances used. It's unlikely the new column would have the same resistance as your old key did,but it's possible.
The airbag system must be disabled in advance before working anywhere.
My personal opinion, is I'd take it to a local, but reputable mechanic whom others hve recommended and see how much to replace the turn signal switch.
If you are a do it yourself, you might want to invest in a factory service manual by Helm. This is NOT a Motors or Helm manual. It is not the DVDs that are mass sold on Ebay.
Doing a search for service manual 1997 park avenue:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1997-Buick-Park-Avenue-Shop-SERVICE-Manual-Repair- - -SET-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ad9bd8ef5QQitemZ390200135413QQptZMotorsQ5fManu- - alsQ5fLiterature
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1997-Buick-Park-Avenue-Service-Shop-Manual-Set-_W- - 0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5d2983388cQQitemZ400128424076QQptZMotorsQ5fManualsQ5fL- - iterature
Item number: 400128424076
item number: 310177918225
Above are two links to a real factory service book set and the Ebay item numbers.. Notice it's two volumes. Some are selling one volume at a time. One includes shipping, other doesn't
If you price the volume at helminc.com, it will probably be $130 plus handling plus shipping.
Also you can use Alldata at many libraries now on their computers free. You can save copies of the pages to a USB memory stick saving as internet explorer files with all files or you can save individual pictures. You can also print out pages on their printers. Check with your local library and if it's not larger and not affiliated with a neighboring system where you can go use your card to access their online data bases, ask them where the closest system is that has online access you can get to.
I prefer a hard copy of the book in my hot little hands to lay on the fender or trunk lid while I work. Some people have bought DVDs with info from GM databases on them. I bought one and never could get it to work.
You can vary the search words on Ebay such as buick instead of Park Avenue and you might hit one that's not in the category I found.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Prior to this, no issues no codes no nothing but a good car.
-Drove 20 miles, ABS light came on, went out about a minute later.
-Few minutes later the Volt light came on, went out about a minute later 3-5 miles.
-A minute later all Dash Lights and Gauges went out.
-A few minutes later it acted like it was missing or it was sputtering poor acceleration, a minute later that went away and it ran good and able to accelerate good, still no dash lights or gauges.
-Turned blinker on and all lights and gauges came on.
-A minute later they went off
-Blinker thing happened three times.
-During de-acceleration turned blinker on and the car killed.
-no crank no lights no nothing.
-Got it home, put charge on the dead battery and the car started.
-Changed Alternator.
-Same thing happened but in 10 miles.
-Brought to a shop, no code, low battery, load tested battery it's good, charged battery car started, no codes, 13.1 at the battery 12.5 inside the car with all the stuff running.
-Put another Alternator in, gave 14 at the battery.
-SAME THING happened this morning,
I GOT NOTHING no codes my mechanic is working on it and I thought I would do some digging, the only spot he did not check yet is under the back seat, not sure if this is a heat issue or what is going on. Any help would be appreciated.
Time for a new battery in my opinion.
Does this car have a heavy current using amplifier in it by any chance?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I was able to locate a few salvage yards that have a switch that will fit. prices range from $75 and up.
I think it best I go to the library first before putting $$'s into this project.
Thanks again for your help!
Regards, Joe
That could be the brake switch at the top of the travel of the brake pedal. It pushes the switch in to tell the computer that the brake is not being depressed.
Try lifting the pedal with your toe to make the connection. Without checking the schematic I believe there used to be a second path from brake disconnect and that was the third brake light in the rear window. Are those bulbs all lighted and working?
>Hit resume
That sounds like a problem inside the stalk for the turn signals, wiper, and the cruise controls. The stalk just pulls out or twists and comes out. The wire for it either has a connector at the top or is through the column to the bottom and has a connector. If it disconnects at the bottom pull a string up through the column with the old switch wire and use that to pull the new wire down through.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
For me the needle on the gauge was below the "0" (or far left position of the gauge). I tried a few ways on the Web to fix it with little luck including a strong magnet. The way I fixed it was to partially disassemble the dash to get to the instrument cluster. I am NOT a mechanic but will try things with a $3.6K purchase price.
I started dis assembly by pulling (by hand) on the wood trim on the dash to remove it (it popped off easily and exposed bolts to get to cluster) and went from there removing bolts/ screws as needed. When I got to the instrument cluster, I removed the clear plastic covering (Can't remember a few screws or bolts did it). Now I had access of the instrument cluster (which was still mounted in the dash).
I moved with one of my fingers the gauge needle that was stuck counter clockwise to be to the zero "0" and it was and has remained fixed for 9 months.
If you are not comfortable with this a mechanic should be able to do it easily since I am not a mechanic but like cars since a kid.
Took me about 25 min start-to-finish and took a variety of small-sized (metric I believe) sockets.
I assume all analog (circular) gauges can be fixed by this method.
best
I also recall people drilling a small hole in the plastic and using a paperclip bent properly pushed through the hole to mechanically move the needle back to position.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Connections at batteries can corrode--check between the red positive cables if there is more than one.
Did you run engine long enough to charge battery? Did you drive it an hour at least? Are you sure the alternator is charging? Running on a low battery you should be getting 15.5+ volts charging with a good voltmeter check at the battery terminals.
I'd suggest having the battery charged--I believe Advance Auto Parts used to charge batteries for free as part of testing them. If the battery is bad, of course they'd like for you to buy one of theirs. They have good batteries and so do other stores.
You may have a drain on the battery. A light staying on. The automatic blower fan module turning on even when the key is off keeping the heater fan running. And I believe on your car the compressor for the load-leveling rear struts can turn on when the key is off. The starter may have a drain in the solenoid since it was rebuilt you may have the same starter.
The alternator can cause a drain.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
And you'd want to know that the person who tested your battery tested it with a load tester, not just a volt meter. It could show 12.5VDC with a meter, but when under load (such as turning a starter) it could drop to 10 volts or less.
Definitely start your diagnosing by making sure the battery is well charged. Did you mean you left it running or charging for 3 hours? Or after it started, you turned it off and retried 3 hours later?
I also agree with the age of battery isn't always a reliable indicator that it is good. I wish that were the case. But I've had some last 7 years, and others barely 1 year.
Hope you already have it figured out by the time you read this, and can tell us what you found.
If you know the battery is fully charged, (either by a battery charger or a long drive while you know the alternator is charging by showing 13.5-14.5V measured at the battery), and it's tested good by a load tester, and it still goes dead, then you will need to consider there may be a drain and we can go from there with more suggestions.
Using a WIRE brush scrub the daylights out of those lugs (all sides) using Permatex Battery Cleaner until they are very clean. It comes in a blue 5.75 ounce spray can, follow their instructions exactly. Dry off well. Inspect the lead donut spacer that goes between the 2 copper lugs. It is probably the original donut, and is probably flat and corroded. You may have a hard time finding this, go to a good alternator shop.
Clean out the female threads on the battery with a good battery terminal brush. Buy Permatex Battery Protectant (same type can, purple spray). It is expensive, about $8 per can, but in working on cars for 40+ years I have never seen anything like this stuff, and have been using it for 15+ years.
Buy TWO NEW battery bolts, they do wear out, especially the + side. HEAVILY spray all sides of both copper lugs, the battery female, and the lead donut during re-installation of all parts with the protectant stuff. The bolt does not have to be super tight because it's new, make it snug, it will bite well. After everything is re-assembled, spray everything again, soak it down good with the spray. Do the same thing to the negative side.
You will NEVER have battery corrosion again, this stuff is fantastic. Note: if your battery terminals are dirty, you could have a good battery, good alternator, good everything, but the full charge will never get to the battery. It could start but then 5 miles down the road the engine will stall because the main computer that controls everything needs a certain voltage level, or it will shut off the car. Jumping or charging the battery in the car will not get past the corrosion.
Also note that your welded-in battery tray will still corrode due to battery off-gassing. I have solutions to this if you need it. After doing all this, the car still stalls or won't start, you may have a drain. But the battery terminal cleaning MUST be the first step. Hope this helps, please let me know how you make out.
Regards, Joe
One final afterthought. I had a standard Sears Die Hard battery that lasted over 9 years in this car using this process, and I never had to clean the terminals twice. After doing this the first time, after several years I took the whole thing apart to inspect, and there was NO corrosion whatsoever. I did re-spray everything during re-assembly, but never inspected it again after that. Incredible stuff.
However, we dont' know if the motor ran long enough and if it was charging the battery. How long does a car need to idle to get the battery charged up part way to reliable for the next start? An hour?
But, a drain is most likely. I thought the name of the poster is familiar. He had a drain problem earlier with a CD player that was installed by a previous owner.
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ef0b1ad/312#MSG312
It becomes complicated with some of these aftermarkets if wired in wrong or with memories that are not wired right.
I would suggest to the poster to tap on the solenoid on the starter gently with a hammer while someone turns the key to crank. He might practice in advance. I suspect the starter because it was rebuilt.
I also suspect the battery. And the positive posts are primary to be checked as the next poster described.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Sounds like you're doing everything right so far. If they charged it overnight and then tested, it sounds like they probably did a load test. And since you've found out that it doesn't drain when disconnected, you're on the right track. Something is getting grounded somewhere.
It does get a bit trickier to find the component that is draining your battery. Sometimes it can confuse even experienced mechanics.
I hope that cleaning up all the cable connections fixes it for you, but the fact that it doesn't drain when disconnected doesn't really sound like the earlier problem posted by patnjoe. That sounds like his problem was the battery wasn't being recharged. I wouldn't think that corrosion on one set of cables would cause a battery drain. Your battery is being discharged.
If you are unbolting the battery cable every night, you will probably have other problems sooner or later, such as wearing out the threads on the battery or the bolt.
This isn't the final solution, but until you find the parasitic drain, you may want to invest in a battery quick disconnect. I'm not sure if you have top or side post battery, but you can find disconnect switches at Walmart or any of your local autoparts stores such as these:
knife switch side term disconnect
thumb wheel side post disconnect
thumb wheel top post disconnect
You also may want to search for " parasitic battery drain ", there are a couple good sites that have illustrations and explanations.
Some people have gone as far as running a battery cut off switch inside the car. Not a great solution, but works for some hunting trucks that don't get driven often.
Last thought, to eliminate the radio as being the source of the battery drain, you could 1) pull the radio and drive it a couple days, or 2) pull any fuses that feed the radio. I'm not sure how the radio was wired when installed. They may have one wire getting power only when key is on, and another getting power full time (key off) to maintain radio memory.
If the radio isn't the source, you can test for drain with a meter (according to those sites you're gonna find, and assuming you have a multimeter) Or you could always pull half the fuses and see if it happens, and then replace and pull the other half, etc. and narrow down the fuses. This would take a while to narrow it down, but it is one of the few things you can do without the proper diagnostic tools.
Hope you get it!
I am assuming your model has the blower motor on the firewall and the module above it. Otherwise they are inside the car.
If access is too tight to get to the BCM, the Maxifuse Center is held in by two screws and can be pushed up some with the slack in the wires to it and that gives you room.
What is the mist like? Is it moisture from the AC running and condensing water in the AC case. Then when you start in the morning the moist air hits the cool windshield and condenses? Unless you use the VENT setting, the AC compressor runs down to 50 or 45 degrees. So it may be collecting moisture even though the ambient air is comfortable already.
Or does it have the sickly sweet smell of coolant, that drips from the heater core and stays because there's no drain there? If you have a coolant seep, the GM recommended pellets can be put into the radiator. Crush them first and open radiator when car has cooled. Use a short plastic tube to siphon off a couple quarts then run car til thermostat should open. Dump in powder and drive to thoroughly mix throughout the system. The GM pellets are a ground organic material and seals small seeps where it tries to go through. They recommend 5 pellets on a clean system. I put in two or three after doing my drain, rinse, drain, three times which takes out the old coolant with its ground almond shells or whatever it is made of. You might seal the heater core with that without plugging it.
It is possible the "smokey" mist is from the blower control module board overheating. It also could be from the brushes on the motor.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
1572530 is the Delco part number
Compatible blower control modules if try to use previously owned:
UICK ELECTRA 1986
BUICK ELECTRA 300 1985
BUICK ELECTRA ESTATE WAGON 1989
BUICK ELECTRA LIMITED (1987 - 1990)
BUICK ELECTRA PARK AVENUE (1985 - 1990)
BUICK ELECTRA PARK AVENUE ULTRA 1990
BUICK ELECTRA T-TYPE (1985 - 1990)
BUICK ELECTRA ULTRA 1989
BUICK LESABRE (1987 - 1991)
BUICK LESABRE CUSTOM (1986 - 1991)
BUICK LESABRE ESTATE WAGON (1989 - 1990)
BUICK LESABRE LIMITED (1986 - 1991)
BUICK PARK AVENUE (1991 - 1993)
BUICK PARK AVENUE ULTRA (1991 - 1993)
BUICK REATTA (1988 - 1991)
BUICK RIVIERA (1986 - 1991)
BUICK RIVIERA T-TYPE 1986
CADILLAC ALLANTE (1987 - 1991)
CADILLAC DEVILLE (1985 - 1993)
CADILLAC DEVILLE TOURING (1991 - 1993)
CADILLAC ELDORADO (1986 - 1991)
CADILLAC FLEETWOOD (1985 - 1992)
CADILLAC FLEETWOOD 60 SPECIAL (1987 - 1992)
CADILLAC FLEETWOOD 75 1986
CADILLAC FLEETWOOD DELEGANCE (1987 - 1988)
CADILLAC SEVILLE (1986 - 1991)
CADILLAC SEVILLE STS (1990 - 1991)
CHEVROLET CORVETTE (1986 - 1989)
OLDSMOBILE 98 REGENCY (1986 - 1993)
OLDSMOBILE 98 REGENCY BROUGHAM (1986 - 1990)
OLDSMOBILE 98 REGENCY ELITE (1991 - 1993)
OLDSMOBILE 98 REGENCY TOURING (1988 - 1993)
OLDSMOBILE DELTA 88 ROYALE (1986 - 1991)
OLDSMOBILE DELTA 88 ROYALE BROUGHAM (1986 - 1991)
OLDSMOBILE TORONADO (1987 - 1991)
OLDSMOBILE TORONADO BROUGHAM (1986 - 1987)
OLDSMOBILE TORONADO TROFEO (1988 - 1991)
PONTIAC BONNEVILLE LE (1988 - 1991)
PONTIAC BONNEVILLE SE (1988 - 1991)
PONTIAC BONNEVILLE SSE (1988 - 1991)
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,